Everest | 1980 S Col-SE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Everest in 1980 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Francesco Santon. Summit reached on 14th October 1980. 55 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1896
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER80301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Francesco Santon
Sponsor Italo-Nepalese Mountaineering Expedition to Mt. Everest 1980
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Czechoslovakia, Nepal, Thailand, Yugoslavia
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1980-08-27
Summit Date 1980-10-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 48
Total Days 53
Termination Date 1980-10-19
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8763m due to high winds
High Point (m) 8763
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 52
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 25
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Had permit for Lhotse (LHOT-803-01)
Campsites BC(27/08,5400m),C1(02/09,6000m),C2(10/09,6400m),C3(17/09,7400m),C4(28/09,8000m),Dep(05/10,8500m),xxx(14/10,8763m)
Route Notes Diemberger - 27 Oct 80 Wind was terrible. We should have tried to go to summit earlier or later; later was no wind. Would have surprised many people in Europe if Diemberger and Messner had gone to Lhotse summit together. Mrs. Schmatz's body not seen. Everest expedition was too big and too diverse in abilities, too disorganised a mess. Highest point was South Summit. Diemberger could have gone to Lhotse summit several times, but Santon said no, first Everest is to be scaled. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 17 Oct 80 Abandoned; no attempt today because of weather (wind) shortage of time. 1st since 1978 Everest unconquered Today all retreated from C4, will not try Lhotse Are booked out of Nepal 22 or 23 Oct to reach Venice 24th BC will be evacuated 19th Sergio Martini was on Col 5 nights and De Marchi 7 nights Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 80 Diemberger reached col yesterday. Masucci did not go up. No summit attempt because of high mist on col. If weather better tomorrow, 4 will try for top. Santon left BC today for KTM; De Marchi at C4 tonight. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism 15 Oct 80 Yesterday De Marchi and Martini reached South Summit, exhausted and too late to be on summit, so returned to South Col in evening. Today Martini left Col for C2; De Marchi still at col, his 6th night there. Yesterday 2 Italians left C2 and reached C4 yesterday and will attempt tomorrow. Today Diemberger and Italian Masucci left for C4 and if reach C4 today will go to top tomorrow. Tomorrow's attempt by 1) Pietro Radin, 38, Vinceza employer 2) De Marchi 3) Almo Giambisi, 42, employer, Canazie 5) Kurt Diemberger 6) Alessanro Masucci, 37, St. Michele al Tagliamento Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 80 Today reached 8600m. Dorje Sherpa (H-A porter) went with the 3 and got same frostbite and one of reasons why turned back. Weather good today. Trio may try again today or tomorrow. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 80 Summit team left C2 Thurs 9 Oct, arrivde C3. C3 to C4 on Friday No contact Saturday "Rescue" by Sunday 2-3 Sherpas carrying oxygen and walkie-talkie; took oxygen to deposit camp 3 left Col for summit Thais gone back to Thailand 14 Italians have left expedition 14 Nepalese have left including co-leader only Nima Norbu as Nepalese member. Shailendra Sharma - 3 Sept 80 Everest BC 27 Aug at 5400m C1 2 Sept at 6000m by 5 Italians and 6 Nepalese members including Ang Maya Sherpa Weather good, not much snow One Italian member came to KTM yesterday and returns to expedition tomorrow. Santon - 15 Aug 80 Will see what strength of team actually is and then decide whether to make two teams, are for Lhotse and other for Everest, or how to handle permits for both mountains. Lhotse route = couloir on West Face Santon, Capt. Karki, Diemberger, 1 woman member and journalist go to Lukla by Puma tomorrow. Santon - 17 May 80 Everest 1980 autumn 30 Italian, 14 Nepalese (9 Sherpas) members including 4 Italian women and 3 Nepalese women. Led by Francesco Santon, 40 South Col route C1 6100m C2 6400m C3 7200m C4 8000m C5 8500m These will be Nepalese climbing as members not as porters for others. Will take oxygen to all camps but try not to use, need not use; asking for Lhotse permit and send some members to its summit after Everest climbed. Arrive 29 July, leave KTM in 3 groups with 1st groups leave 4 Aug BC. 1st Sept start climb. All baggage now in Lukla. Kurt Diemberger arrive KTM 10 Aug and flies by helicopter. 23 Sherpas and 2 sirdars: Lhakpa, Yalung Kang Ang Dorje, Everest, 1978 summit T. C. Pokharel - 20 Dec 78 Italian Leader for 1980 Everest with Nepalese is F. Santon, Club Italiano, Sezione de Dolo, leader of 1977 autumn Italian expedition to Annapurna III and deputy leader 1976 Italian Dhaulagiri I expedition. Everest Sherpas: Sirdars Lhakpa, Ang Dorje HA Sherpas: 23 T. C. Pokharel - 5 Dec 78 NMA have decided to accept Italian Alpine Club, Rane as climbers on Everest with Nepalese Team Aut 1980. Have accepted in principle, but await Italians written agreement to terms before making announcement. South Col route. Nepal Leader not yet chosen; probably 10 Nepalese and 20 Italians. Thinks Italian leader is Renato Moro.
Accidents 1 Sherpa killed in Khumbu Icefall; Piana killed by avalanche above C2
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446597
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

55 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Joze Andlovic M 1923 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Sempeter pri Gorici, Yugoslavia Physician Details Other expeditions
Marzio Babille M 1953 Italy Exp Doctor Trieste, Italy Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Enrico Bertoldin M 1936 Italy Climber Sovramonte Croce d'Aune, Belluno, Italy Businessman Details Other expeditions
Azio (Vincezo) Bidoia M - Italy Climber Veneto, Italy Works in large factory producing climbing boots Details Other expeditions
Paolo Bizzarro M 1949 Italy Climber Udine, Italy Clerk Details Other expeditions
Rat Bootong M 1943 Thailand Climber Bangkok, Thailand - Details Other expeditions
Massimo Piero Cappon M 1949 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Reporter Details Other expeditions
Giampaolo Casarotto M 1956 Italy Climber Caldogno, Vicenza, Italy Typographer Details Other expeditions
Andrea Cassutti M 1954 Italy Climber Padua, Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Phansak Chansakul M - Thailand Climber - Radio announcer, Territorial Defence Department, Bangkok Details Other expeditions
Alfredo Dal Santo M - Italy Climber Este, Padua, Italy Typographer Details Other expeditions
Riccarda De Eccher F 1954 Italy Climber Udine, Italy Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Lucio De Franceschi M 1956 Italy Climber Padua, Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Giuliano De Marchi M 1947 Italy Exp Doctor Belluno, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Enzo De Menech M 1951 Italy Climber Feltre, Belluno, Italy Electro-technician Details Other expeditions
Kurt Diemberger M 1932 Austria Climber Salzburg, Austria Photographer Details Other expeditions
Paolo Donega M 1946 Italy Climber Vicenza, Italy Businessman Details Other expeditions
Francesca Framarin F 1947 Italy Climber Gambellara, Vicenza, Italy Sanitary assistant Details Other expeditions
Laura Gelson F 1951 Italy Climber Biella, Vercelli, Italy Teacher Details Other expeditions
Almo Giambisi M 1938 Italy Climber Canazei, Trento, Italy Businessman Details Other expeditions
Sergio Martini M 1949 Italy Climber Rovereto, Trento, Italy Teacher Details Other expeditions
Alessandro Masucci M 1943 Italy Climber Vigonovo, Venezia, Italy Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Sandra Matjak F 1950 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Giancarlo Milan M 1951 Italy Climber Rovigo, Italy Businessman Details Other expeditions
Piero Mozzi M 1952 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Clerk Details Other expeditions
Jiri Novak M 1945 Czechoslovakia Climber Kladno, Czechoslovakia Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Guido Pagani M 1952 Italy Climber Predazzo, Trento, Italy Businessman Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Peruzzi M 1937 Italy Climber Veneto, Italy Clerk Details Other expeditions
Mario (Franco) Piana M 1943 Italy Deputy Leader Genoa, Italy Worker in large factory Details Other expeditions
Francesco Piardi M 1960 Italy Climber Padua, Italy Accountant Details Other expeditions
Pietro Radin M 1943 Italy Climber Vicenza, Italy Electrician Details Other expeditions
Luigi Aldo Rampini M 1943 Italy Climber Arluno, Milano, Italy Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Francesco Santon M 1939 Italy Leader Fiesso d'Artico, Venezia, Italy Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Adelchi Silvera M 1937 Italy Climber Gorizia, Italy Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Andrea Segalin M 1957 Italy Climber Venice (Venezia), Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Luciano Tellaroli M 1947 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Bank clerk Details Other expeditions
Giampaolo Zernetti M 1943 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Clerk Details Other expeditions
Padam Singh Ghale M 1952 Nepal Climber - Trekking guide Details Other expeditions
Krishna Bahadur Karki M - Nepal Climber - Non-commssioned officer in Royal Nepal Army Details Other expeditions
Pradeep Kumar Karki M 1953 Nepal Deputy Leader - Captain, RNA Details Other expeditions
Ang Phuri Lama M 1948 Nepal Climber Beni-3, Solukhumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Gupta Bahadur Rana M 1945 Nepal Climber - Subinspector in Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal Climber - Trekking guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Maya Sherpa F - Nepal Climber - Housewife Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa F - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Tendi Sherpa M - Nepal Climber - Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Gyalzen Sherpa M 1950 Nepal Climber - Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Kalden Sherpa M - Nepal Climber - Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa M 1957 Nepal Climber - Non-commissioned police officer Details Other expeditions
Nima Norbu Sherpa M 1953 Nepal Climber - Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Sange Sherpa M - Nepal Climber - Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Tashi Jangbu Sherpa M 1959 Nepal Climber Namche Bazar, Khumbu Student Details Other expeditions
Nawang Kersang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Climbing Sirdar Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER80301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:253 (1981) -
EVER80301 - Favaro, Adriano & Santon, Francesco A Due Passi Dalla Cima Rome - F32
EVER80301 MM - - - 77:11 (Jan 1981) -
EVER80301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125301/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest - - -