Everest | 1980 S Col-SE Ridge
A Italy expedition to Everest in 1980 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Francesco Santon. Summit reached on 14th October 1980. 55 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1896 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER80301 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Italy |
| Leaders | Francesco Santon |
| Sponsor | Italo-Nepalese Mountaineering Expedition to Mt. Everest 1980 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Austria, Czechoslovakia, Nepal, Thailand, Yugoslavia |
| Approach | Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-08-27 |
| Summit Date | 1980-10-14 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 48 |
| Total Days | 53 |
| Termination Date | 1980-10-19 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8763m due to high winds |
| High Point (m) | 8763 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 52 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 25 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 1 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Had permit for Lhotse (LHOT-803-01) |
| Campsites | BC(27/08,5400m),C1(02/09,6000m),C2(10/09,6400m),C3(17/09,7400m),C4(28/09,8000m),Dep(05/10,8500m),xxx(14/10,8763m) |
| Route Notes | Diemberger - 27 Oct 80 Wind was terrible. We should have tried to go to summit earlier or later; later was no wind. Would have surprised many people in Europe if Diemberger and Messner had gone to Lhotse summit together. Mrs. Schmatz's body not seen. Everest expedition was too big and too diverse in abilities, too disorganised a mess. Highest point was South Summit. Diemberger could have gone to Lhotse summit several times, but Santon said no, first Everest is to be scaled. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 17 Oct 80 Abandoned; no attempt today because of weather (wind) shortage of time. 1st since 1978 Everest unconquered Today all retreated from C4, will not try Lhotse Are booked out of Nepal 22 or 23 Oct to reach Venice 24th BC will be evacuated 19th Sergio Martini was on Col 5 nights and De Marchi 7 nights Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 80 Diemberger reached col yesterday. Masucci did not go up. No summit attempt because of high mist on col. If weather better tomorrow, 4 will try for top. Santon left BC today for KTM; De Marchi at C4 tonight. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism 15 Oct 80 Yesterday De Marchi and Martini reached South Summit, exhausted and too late to be on summit, so returned to South Col in evening. Today Martini left Col for C2; De Marchi still at col, his 6th night there. Yesterday 2 Italians left C2 and reached C4 yesterday and will attempt tomorrow. Today Diemberger and Italian Masucci left for C4 and if reach C4 today will go to top tomorrow. Tomorrow's attempt by 1) Pietro Radin, 38, Vinceza employer 2) De Marchi 3) Almo Giambisi, 42, employer, Canazie 5) Kurt Diemberger 6) Alessanro Masucci, 37, St. Michele al Tagliamento Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 80 Today reached 8600m. Dorje Sherpa (H-A porter) went with the 3 and got same frostbite and one of reasons why turned back. Weather good today. Trio may try again today or tomorrow. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 80 Summit team left C2 Thurs 9 Oct, arrivde C3. C3 to C4 on Friday No contact Saturday "Rescue" by Sunday 2-3 Sherpas carrying oxygen and walkie-talkie; took oxygen to deposit camp 3 left Col for summit Thais gone back to Thailand 14 Italians have left expedition 14 Nepalese have left including co-leader only Nima Norbu as Nepalese member. Shailendra Sharma - 3 Sept 80 Everest BC 27 Aug at 5400m C1 2 Sept at 6000m by 5 Italians and 6 Nepalese members including Ang Maya Sherpa Weather good, not much snow One Italian member came to KTM yesterday and returns to expedition tomorrow. Santon - 15 Aug 80 Will see what strength of team actually is and then decide whether to make two teams, are for Lhotse and other for Everest, or how to handle permits for both mountains. Lhotse route = couloir on West Face Santon, Capt. Karki, Diemberger, 1 woman member and journalist go to Lukla by Puma tomorrow. Santon - 17 May 80 Everest 1980 autumn 30 Italian, 14 Nepalese (9 Sherpas) members including 4 Italian women and 3 Nepalese women. Led by Francesco Santon, 40 South Col route C1 6100m C2 6400m C3 7200m C4 8000m C5 8500m These will be Nepalese climbing as members not as porters for others. Will take oxygen to all camps but try not to use, need not use; asking for Lhotse permit and send some members to its summit after Everest climbed. Arrive 29 July, leave KTM in 3 groups with 1st groups leave 4 Aug BC. 1st Sept start climb. All baggage now in Lukla. Kurt Diemberger arrive KTM 10 Aug and flies by helicopter. 23 Sherpas and 2 sirdars: Lhakpa, Yalung Kang Ang Dorje, Everest, 1978 summit T. C. Pokharel - 20 Dec 78 Italian Leader for 1980 Everest with Nepalese is F. Santon, Club Italiano, Sezione de Dolo, leader of 1977 autumn Italian expedition to Annapurna III and deputy leader 1976 Italian Dhaulagiri I expedition. Everest Sherpas: Sirdars Lhakpa, Ang Dorje HA Sherpas: 23 T. C. Pokharel - 5 Dec 78 NMA have decided to accept Italian Alpine Club, Rane as climbers on Everest with Nepalese Team Aut 1980. Have accepted in principle, but await Italians written agreement to terms before making announcement. South Col route. Nepal Leader not yet chosen; probably 10 Nepalese and 20 Italians. Thinks Italian leader is Renato Moro. |
| Accidents | 1 Sherpa killed in Khumbu Icefall; Piana killed by avalanche above C2 |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446597 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
55 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Joze Andlovic | M | 1923 | Yugoslavia | Exp Doctor | Sempeter pri Gorici, Yugoslavia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Marzio Babille | M | 1953 | Italy | Exp Doctor | Trieste, Italy | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Enrico Bertoldin | M | 1936 | Italy | Climber | Sovramonte Croce d'Aune, Belluno, Italy | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Azio (Vincezo) Bidoia | M | - | Italy | Climber | Veneto, Italy | Works in large factory producing climbing boots | Details Other expeditions |
| Paolo Bizzarro | M | 1949 | Italy | Climber | Udine, Italy | Clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Rat Bootong | M | 1943 | Thailand | Climber | Bangkok, Thailand | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Massimo Piero Cappon | M | 1949 | Italy | Climber | Milano, Italy | Reporter | Details Other expeditions |
| Giampaolo Casarotto | M | 1956 | Italy | Climber | Caldogno, Vicenza, Italy | Typographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrea Cassutti | M | 1954 | Italy | Climber | Padua, Italy | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Phansak Chansakul | M | - | Thailand | Climber | - | Radio announcer, Territorial Defence Department, Bangkok | Details Other expeditions |
| Alfredo Dal Santo | M | - | Italy | Climber | Este, Padua, Italy | Typographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Riccarda De Eccher | F | 1954 | Italy | Climber | Udine, Italy | Surveyor | Details Other expeditions |
| Lucio De Franceschi | M | 1956 | Italy | Climber | Padua, Italy | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Giuliano De Marchi | M | 1947 | Italy | Exp Doctor | Belluno, Italy | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Enzo De Menech | M | 1951 | Italy | Climber | Feltre, Belluno, Italy | Electro-technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Kurt Diemberger | M | 1932 | Austria | Climber | Salzburg, Austria | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Paolo Donega | M | 1946 | Italy | Climber | Vicenza, Italy | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Francesca Framarin | F | 1947 | Italy | Climber | Gambellara, Vicenza, Italy | Sanitary assistant | Details Other expeditions |
| Laura Gelson | F | 1951 | Italy | Climber | Biella, Vercelli, Italy | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Almo Giambisi | M | 1938 | Italy | Climber | Canazei, Trento, Italy | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergio Martini | M | 1949 | Italy | Climber | Rovereto, Trento, Italy | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Alessandro Masucci | M | 1943 | Italy | Climber | Vigonovo, Venezia, Italy | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Sandra Matjak | F | 1950 | Italy | Climber | Trieste, Italy | Surveyor | Details Other expeditions |
| Giancarlo Milan | M | 1951 | Italy | Climber | Rovigo, Italy | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Piero Mozzi | M | 1952 | Italy | Climber | Trieste, Italy | Clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Jiri Novak | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Kladno, Czechoslovakia | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Guido Pagani | M | 1952 | Italy | Climber | Predazzo, Trento, Italy | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Giorgio Peruzzi | M | 1937 | Italy | Climber | Veneto, Italy | Clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario (Franco) Piana | M | 1943 | Italy | Deputy Leader | Genoa, Italy | Worker in large factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Francesco Piardi | M | 1960 | Italy | Climber | Padua, Italy | Accountant | Details Other expeditions |
| Pietro Radin | M | 1943 | Italy | Climber | Vicenza, Italy | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Luigi Aldo Rampini | M | 1943 | Italy | Climber | Arluno, Milano, Italy | Surveyor | Details Other expeditions |
| Francesco Santon | M | 1939 | Italy | Leader | Fiesso d'Artico, Venezia, Italy | Surveyor | Details Other expeditions |
| Adelchi Silvera | M | 1937 | Italy | Climber | Gorizia, Italy | Mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrea Segalin | M | 1957 | Italy | Climber | Venice (Venezia), Italy | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Luciano Tellaroli | M | 1947 | Italy | Climber | Milano, Italy | Bank clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Giampaolo Zernetti | M | 1943 | Italy | Climber | Trieste, Italy | Clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Padam Singh Ghale | M | 1952 | Nepal | Climber | - | Trekking guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Krishna Bahadur Karki | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | Non-commssioned officer in Royal Nepal Army | Details Other expeditions |
| Pradeep Kumar Karki | M | 1953 | Nepal | Deputy Leader | - | Captain, RNA | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phuri Lama | M | 1948 | Nepal | Climber | Beni-3, Solukhumbu | High-altitude porter | Details Other expeditions |
| Gupta Bahadur Rana | M | 1945 | Nepal | Climber | - | Subinspector in Nepal Police | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Kami Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | Trekking guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Maya Sherpa | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Rita Sherpa | F | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Tendi Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Gyalzen Sherpa | M | 1950 | Nepal | Climber | - | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Kalden Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa | M | 1957 | Nepal | Climber | - | Non-commissioned police officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Norbu Sherpa | M | 1953 | Nepal | Climber | - | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Sange Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Tashi Jangbu Sherpa | M | 1959 | Nepal | Climber | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Kersang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Dorje Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climbing Sirdar | Thamo, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER80301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 55:253 (1981) | - |
| EVER80301 | - | Favaro, Adriano & Santon, Francesco | A Due Passi Dalla Cima | Rome | - | F32 |
| EVER80301 | MM | - | - | - | 77:11 (Jan 1981) | - |
| EVER80301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125301/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest | - | - | - |