Everest | 1980 N Col-NE Ridge
A Japan expedition to Everest in 1980 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Hyoriki Watanabe. Summit reached on 3rd May 1980. 27 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1916 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER80103 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Col-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs) |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Hyoriki Watanabe |
| Sponsor | Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 37th |
| Ascent 2 | 38th |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Lhasa->BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-03-05 |
| Summit Date | 1980-05-03 |
| Summit Time | 1655 |
| Summit Days | 59 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 7 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 27 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 22 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | Smt(03,10/05) (See Route Details) |
| Route Notes | Shohei Wada (member 80 Japanese Everest Exped) - 7 Jan 80 Japan Everest Expedition on North Spr 1980. Chinese will participate only as helpers; load-carriers and will go only up to 7500m; will be 3 "sirdars" and 25 others, probably all Tibetans. Will be 19 Japanese divided into 2 parties to attempt Everest by North Face and NE Ridge separately. No attempt Everest to meet on summit, no plan to ascend one route and descend other. Will use oxygen. Face party to start climbing 7 March, Ridge party on 14 March; summit 20 May. Shailendra Raj Sharma - 24 Aug 79 Sharma has just returned from visit to Japan where he met with JAC official and others. Japanese on Everest next year via Main Rongbuk Glacier and North Face. No Sherpas available so 30 Japanese of whom 20 = load carriers and 10 climbers; no Chinese climbers Sharma believes, but Mr Shih will be with expedition. Japanese asked permission to send baggage via Kodari because of cost from "mainland." China: cost of Lhasa hotel = $250 per person; peak fee is double Nepal's fee for Everest; rules same as Nepal rules. N Col-N Ridge Route: BC(05/03,5150m),C1(16/03,5500m),C2(17/03,6000m),ABC(22/03,6500m),C4(25/03,7000m), C5(06/04,7600m),C6(01/05,8000m),C7(02/05,8250m),Smt(03/05),Biv(03/05,8750m) N Face Route: BC(05/03,5150m),C1(09/03,5640m),ABC(25/03,6150m),C3(04/04,6900m),C4(18/04,7700m), C5(20/04,8350m),Smt(10/05),Biv(10/05,8700m) |
| Accidents | Akira Ube died in avalanche |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446433 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n col-ne ridge |
Members
27 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hyoriki Watanabe | M | - | Japan | Leader | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuo Kato | M | 1949 | Japan | Climbing Ldr (NE Ridge) | Omiya, Saitama, Japan | President of Sonex International Co. (travel agents) | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Ozaki | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber (N Face) | Kameyama, Mie, Japan | Employee of Kameyama-Automobile Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsuneo Shigehiro | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber (N Face) | Amagasaki, Hyogo, Japan | Sporting goods salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Akira Ube | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber (N Face) | Minakemi, Gunma, Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshinori Hasegawa | M | - | Japan | Climber (NE Ridge) | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Atsuo Saito | M | 1929 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Kyoto, Japan | Surgeon & research member of medical dept of Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshio Hamano | M | - | Japan | Deputy Ldr (NE Ridge) | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoji Nakamura | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber (NE Ridge) | Tokyo, Japan | Printer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Ohara | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber (NE Ridge) | Tokyo, Japan | Motorcar parts salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Kotaro Yokoyama | M | - | Japan | Climber (NE Ridge) | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kunio Kai | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber (NE Ridge) | Kyoto, Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshimichi Furuhata | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber (NE Ridge) | Hakuba, Kitaazumi-ku, Nagano, Japan | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Matsuji Yamashita | M | - | Japan | Climber (NE Ridge) | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Masayuki Kamiya | M | - | Japan | Climber (NE Ridge) | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Toichiro Mitani | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber (NE Ridge) | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Office worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoji Nishiyama | M | - | Japan | Exp Doctor (NE Ridge) | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideki Miyashita | M | 1931 | Japan | Deputy Ldr (N Face) | - | Vice President Construction Company, Shinsei Shokai Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Tadao Kanzaki | M | 1940 | Japan | Climbing Ldr (N Face) | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Takeyoshi Takastuka | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber (N Face) | Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan | Restaurant owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazushige Takami | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber (N Face) | Hiroshima, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshiaki Kobayashi | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber (N Face) | Soka, Saitama, Japan | Office clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsuguyasu Itami | M | - | Japan | Climber (N Face) | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Shohei Wada | M | - | Japan | Climber (N Face) | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gota Isono | M | 1954 | Japan | Climber (N Face) | Tokyo, Japan | Travel agency employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Shin Gashu | M | - | Japan | Climber (N Face) | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Susumu Nakamura | M | 1946 | Japan | Film Team (NE Ridge) | Tokyo, Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
14 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER80103 | JAC | Watanabe, Hyoriki | The Chomolungma Project 1980 - North Face & Northeast Ridge | - | 75:1-5 (1980) | - |
| EVER80103 | AAJ | Tambe, Sadao | - | - | 55:305-306 (1981) | - |
| EVER80103 | AAJ | Tambe, Sadao | - | - | 53:657-658 (1980) | - |
| EVER80103 | - | Yomiuri Newspaper | Stood on the Summit of Everest | Yomiuri, Tokyo | - | jY86 |
| EVER80103 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Everest | - | 76:30-43 (Nov 1980) | - |
| EVER80103 | MM | - | - | - | 74:13 (Jul 1980) | - |
| EVER80103 | IM | Motwani, Prem Kumar | Rising Sun on Chomolungma | - | 7:26-37 (Spring 1981) | - |
| EVER80103 | JAC | Watanabe, Hyoriki | The Chomolungma Project 1980 - North Face & Northeast Ridge | - | 75:1-56 (1980) | - |
| EVER80103 | IM | - | The Japanese Spectacular | - | 6:86-89 (Autumn 1980) | - |
| EVER80103 | - | Japan Alpine Club | Chomolungma - Tibet | Kodansha, Tokyo | - | jN118 |
| EVER80103 | - | Kato, Yasuo | To the Plume of the Mountains | Chuokoron, Tokyo | - | jK69 |
| EVER80103 | - | Okajimi, Shigeyuki | Everybody on the Summit | Yama-To-Kei, Tokyo | - | jA283 |
| EVER80103 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198130500/Asia-China-Mount-Everest-Qomolungma-Northeast-Ridge-and-North-Face | - | - | - |
| EVER80103 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198065703/Asia-ChinaTibet-Mount-Everest-Reconnaissance-from-the-North | - | - | - |