Everest | 1980 N Col-NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1980 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Hyoriki Watanabe. Summit reached on 3rd May 1980. 27 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1916
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER80103
Peak ID EVER
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hyoriki Watanabe
Sponsor Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 37th
Ascent 2 38th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lhasa->BC
Basecamp Date 1980-03-05
Summit Date 1980-05-03
Summit Time 1655
Summit Days 59
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 7
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 27
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 22
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites Smt(03,10/05) (See Route Details)
Route Notes Shohei Wada (member 80 Japanese Everest Exped) - 7 Jan 80 Japan Everest Expedition on North Spr 1980. Chinese will participate only as helpers; load-carriers and will go only up to 7500m; will be 3 "sirdars" and 25 others, probably all Tibetans. Will be 19 Japanese divided into 2 parties to attempt Everest by North Face and NE Ridge separately. No attempt Everest to meet on summit, no plan to ascend one route and descend other. Will use oxygen. Face party to start climbing 7 March, Ridge party on 14 March; summit 20 May. Shailendra Raj Sharma - 24 Aug 79 Sharma has just returned from visit to Japan where he met with JAC official and others. Japanese on Everest next year via Main Rongbuk Glacier and North Face. No Sherpas available so 30 Japanese of whom 20 = load carriers and 10 climbers; no Chinese climbers Sharma believes, but Mr Shih will be with expedition. Japanese asked permission to send baggage via Kodari because of cost from "mainland." China: cost of Lhasa hotel = $250 per person; peak fee is double Nepal's fee for Everest; rules same as Nepal rules. N Col-N Ridge Route: BC(05/03,5150m),C1(16/03,5500m),C2(17/03,6000m),ABC(22/03,6500m),C4(25/03,7000m), C5(06/04,7600m),C6(01/05,8000m),C7(02/05,8250m),Smt(03/05),Biv(03/05,8750m) N Face Route: BC(05/03,5150m),C1(09/03,5640m),ABC(25/03,6150m),C3(04/04,6900m),C4(18/04,7700m), C5(20/04,8350m),Smt(10/05),Biv(10/05,8700m)
Accidents Akira Ube died in avalanche
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446433
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

27 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hyoriki Watanabe M - Japan Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Yasuo Kato M 1949 Japan Climbing Ldr (NE Ridge) Omiya, Saitama, Japan President of Sonex International Co. (travel agents) Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ozaki M 1952 Japan Climber (N Face) Kameyama, Mie, Japan Employee of Kameyama-Automobile Co. Details Other expeditions
Tsuneo Shigehiro M 1947 Japan Climber (N Face) Amagasaki, Hyogo, Japan Sporting goods salesman Details Other expeditions
Akira Ube M 1948 Japan Climber (N Face) Minakemi, Gunma, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yoshinori Hasegawa M - Japan Climber (NE Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Atsuo Saito M 1929 Japan Exp Doctor Kyoto, Japan Surgeon & research member of medical dept of Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Hamano M - Japan Deputy Ldr (NE Ridge) Japan - Details Other expeditions
Shoji Nakamura M 1942 Japan Climber (NE Ridge) Tokyo, Japan Printer Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ohara M 1946 Japan Climber (NE Ridge) Tokyo, Japan Motorcar parts salesman Details Other expeditions
Kotaro Yokoyama M - Japan Climber (NE Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Kunio Kai M 1947 Japan Climber (NE Ridge) Kyoto, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yoshimichi Furuhata M 1947 Japan Climber (NE Ridge) Hakuba, Kitaazumi-ku, Nagano, Japan Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Matsuji Yamashita M - Japan Climber (NE Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Kamiya M - Japan Climber (NE Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Toichiro Mitani M 1956 Japan Climber (NE Ridge) Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Shoji Nishiyama M - Japan Exp Doctor (NE Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Hideki Miyashita M 1931 Japan Deputy Ldr (N Face) - Vice President Construction Company, Shinsei Shokai Co. Details Other expeditions
Tadao Kanzaki M 1940 Japan Climbing Ldr (N Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Takeyoshi Takastuka M 1942 Japan Climber (N Face) Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan Restaurant owner Details Other expeditions
Kazushige Takami M 1945 Japan Climber (N Face) Hiroshima, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Toshiaki Kobayashi M 1948 Japan Climber (N Face) Soka, Saitama, Japan Office clerk Details Other expeditions
Tsuguyasu Itami M - Japan Climber (N Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Shohei Wada M - Japan Climber (N Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Gota Isono M 1954 Japan Climber (N Face) Tokyo, Japan Travel agency employee Details Other expeditions
Shin Gashu M - Japan Climber (N Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Susumu Nakamura M 1946 Japan Film Team (NE Ridge) Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions

References

14 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER80103 JAC Watanabe, Hyoriki The Chomolungma Project 1980 - North Face & Northeast Ridge - 75:1-5 (1980) -
EVER80103 AAJ Tambe, Sadao - - 55:305-306 (1981) -
EVER80103 AAJ Tambe, Sadao - - 53:657-658 (1980) -
EVER80103 - Yomiuri Newspaper Stood on the Summit of Everest Yomiuri, Tokyo - jY86
EVER80103 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Everest - 76:30-43 (Nov 1980) -
EVER80103 MM - - - 74:13 (Jul 1980) -
EVER80103 IM Motwani, Prem Kumar Rising Sun on Chomolungma - 7:26-37 (Spring 1981) -
EVER80103 JAC Watanabe, Hyoriki The Chomolungma Project 1980 - North Face & Northeast Ridge - 75:1-56 (1980) -
EVER80103 IM - The Japanese Spectacular - 6:86-89 (Autumn 1980) -
EVER80103 - Japan Alpine Club Chomolungma - Tibet Kodansha, Tokyo - jN118
EVER80103 - Kato, Yasuo To the Plume of the Mountains Chuokoron, Tokyo - jK69
EVER80103 - Okajimi, Shigeyuki Everybody on the Summit Yama-To-Kei, Tokyo - jA283
EVER80103 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198130500/Asia-China-Mount-Everest-Qomolungma-Northeast-Ridge-and-North-Face - - -
EVER80103 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198065703/Asia-ChinaTibet-Mount-Everest-Reconnaissance-from-the-North - - -