Everest | 1980 S Col-SE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Everest in 1980 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Juan Ignacio Lorente Zugaza. Summit reached on 14th May 1980. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1913
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER80101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Juan Ignacio Lorente Zugaza
Sponsor Basque Expedition to Everest 1980
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 39th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1980-03-20
Summit Date 1980-05-14
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 55
Total Days 62
Termination Date 1980-05-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 35
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/03,5400m),C1(05/04,6100m),C2(07/04,6500m),C3(17/04,7360m),C4(19/04,8000m),Smt(14/05)
Route Notes Lorente & Zabalate - 30 May 80 1st summit team reached South Summit, [Rosen, Gallardo,] Garayoa Aizcorbe and Nima Temba, 4th May, much wind. 2nd summit team only to South Col, again wind about 8 May, Erro Jauregui and Pemba Tsering. 3rd team Zabaleta and Pasang Temba [summited]. Below 8500m South Summit saw ice and blue backpack, no bodies, much snow. On summit found tripod with rosary, crucifix and thermometer from Poles, nothing from Japanese biv, South Summit 14-15 May in crevasse 7:00 pm to 8:00 am. No bivy bag, no oxygen, no food, no drink; oxygen finished at Hillary Step. 8800m in descent at 5:00 pm Sherpa fell 6m with cornice between Hillary Step and South Summit. Zabaleta used ice axe to help in 2-hour struggle to get Pasang Temba up again. Shailendra Raj Sharma & Shyam 21 May 80 Basques all Ok; all reached BC 19 May and start evacuating BC today. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 May 80 Basques have abandoned Everest attempt. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 May 80 Dawa Dorje Sherpa fell into crevasse 3 pm yesterday in Icefall descent; fell 20-25m in crevasse; back injured and now in KTM hospital. He was alone when fell. Another summit attempt probable. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 80 2 summiters arrived South Col 7:15 pm yesterday. Left Col 8:00 am today for C2; their health good; no RA from helicopter. Will be in BC tomorrow. Next summit attempt maybe tomorrow, may be later. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 May 80 Yesterday's summiters couldn't reach emergency camp. Biv at South Summit at 8:30 pm. Oxygen finished; passed night without oxygen. In descent both slipped. Martin down on Tibet side and Pasang Temba pulled him up. This 7:00 am was radio between BC and summiters, but not good contact. 3 Sherpas left at 7:30 to South Summit from col with oxygen and radio batteries. At 11:00 these Sherpas radioed they could see 2 people coming down. Lorente reached Col last night. Lorente visiting at South Col for summiters who expected arrive Col 5:00 pm. 2 Sherpas went up and met Martin and Pasang Temba at 1:00 pm today just little below South Summit; were descending slowly when Sherpa reached then and gave food drink and oxygen and then escorted them down. Their health is very good. Another summit attempt scheduled tomorrow or day after tomorrow; leader will decide. Shailendra Raj Sharma - 14 May 80 Summit attempt by (1) Dr. Juan Ignacio Lorente (2) Martin Zabaleta (3) Pasang Sherpa 3 started from South Col at 2:30 am; contact with summiters at 1 pm from South Summit. Lorente turned back at 8480m, where had emergency camp, because others ahead from start, then at top. 2 at summit 3:30 pm; on top 40 minutes and had lunch; weather very clear and could see much of Tibet but at BC snow fall from 2:00 pm. Since summit no further contact but planned to stay in emergency camp if late there. Lorente started to Col when summiters started down. No information re further summit attempt. Shailedra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 80 2nd attempt failed; only little above South Col and bad weather turned them back; went to C2 yesterday; by 2 members (names not known). After 3-4 days another attempt. Yves Austin - 6 May 80 No attempts on Everest and Lhotse today because very strong wind at 7:00 am. Blowing snow plume from below So Col. Heavy snowfall in Everest area last night; no snow even at Baruntse BC (4200m =14,000 feet) this morning. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 5 May 80 3 Basque went up from South Col yesterday but failed to reach summit. Another party will try tomorrow. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 80 Summit attempt 4 or 5 May; why waiting don't know. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 28 April 80 Basques on Everest returned to Col on 19 April and made camp there. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 25 April 80 1 members and 2 Sherpas reached South Col 19 April but descended same day; route made but no camp occupied; planned summit attack end April. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 3 April 80 1 Sherpa injured in Icefall brought to KTM - not badly hurt. Arrue & Lorente - 20 Feb 80 All 12 members now in KTM; leave Saturday, Sunday and Monday 25 Feb on scheduled flights to Lukla. Establish BC 20-25 March. Expedition one month acclimatization on Island Peak and other small peaks C2 at about 6600m C3 at 7200m C4 at 8000m Biv camp on Ridge at about 8500m for descent probably Oxygen in climbing above 7500m and sleeping at Col 22 Sherpas above BC and sirdar is Pemba Tsering 12 in Icefall in addition 35 total (another sirdar at BC) Want to give every member chance 1st summit, so need many Sherpas to carry lot of supplies to Col. Andes 1 month training period this past summer with ascents of four peaks.
Accidents 1 Sherpa injured in Icefall brought to KTM
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446444
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Ramon Arrue Alberdi M 1948 Spain Climber Arechavaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain Head of export department of company producing dry batteries, etc. Details Other expeditions
Enrique-Julian (Kike) De Pablo Benito M 1952 Spain Climber Bilbao, Vizcaya, Spain Research biologist Details Other expeditions
Xabier Erro Jauregui M 1946 Spain Climber Fuenterrabia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Ricardo Gallardo Senosian M 1940 Spain Climber Oiartzun, Guipuzcoa, Spain Businessman (has own small car-repair shop) Details Other expeditions
Francisco Javier Garayoa Aizcorbe M 1950 Spain Exp Doctor Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Jose Emilio Hernando Arranz M 1953 Spain Climber Bilbao, Vizcaya, Spain Bookshop owner Details Other expeditions
Juan Ignacio Lorente Zugaza M 1939 Spain Leader Vitoria, Alava, Spain Ophthalmologist Details Other expeditions
Luis Maria Saenz De Olazagoitia M 1943 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Hydraulic mechanics specialist in tire factory Details Other expeditions
Jose-Takolo Urbieta Cendoya M 1941 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Mechanic in furniture factory Details Other expeditions
Felipe Uriarte Camara M 1944 Spain Climber San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpine guide & director of trekking company Details Other expeditions
Angel Alexandre Vallejo Rosen M 1942 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Travelling salesman for company producing dry batteries Details Other expeditions
Martin Zabaleta Larburu M 1949 Spain Climber Hernani, Guipuzcoa, Spain Works in Uriarte's trekking company leading treks overseas Details Other expeditions
Pasang Temba Sherpa M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Ghat, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tsering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Temba Sherpa M 1956 Nepal H-A Worker Lukla, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER80101 AAJ Zabaleta, Martin - - 55:252 (1981) -
EVER80101 - Uriarte, Felipe Vascos en el Everest Elkar, Bilbao - U52
EVER80101 MM - - - 74:13 (Jul 1980) -
EVER80101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125202/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Basque-Expedition - - -