Everest | 1979 S Col-SE Ridge

A Poland expedition to Everest in 1979 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Andrzej Zawada. Summit reached on 17th February 1980. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2126
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER79401
Peak ID EVER
Year 1979
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Andrzej Zawada
Sponsor Polish National Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 36th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1979-12-31
Summit Date 1980-02-17
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 48
Total Days 51
Termination Date 1980-02-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 20
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/12,5360m),C1(08/01,6050m),C2(09/01,6500m),C3(15/01,7150m),C4(11/02,7960m),Smt(17/02)
Route Notes Zawada & summiters - 28 Feb 80 Saw one body only, believe woman's body and almost sure Mrs Schmatz; short and thin like woman, sure it was woman, Cichy while descending saw body at 8350m. Clothes red and blue, light blue backpack, ice axe, rope and mattress at 8550m; probably biv site - am black. Cichy and Wielicki saw body from ridge 34m from it body lying, part inside ice; 6:00 pm when near body, getting dark but could see. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 28 Feb 80 No 1 at 8550m on descent slightly different route saw body, probably female. No 2 at 8350m body in red and blue clothes lying on ice slope 100m below ridge; 30m long rope fixed around this body. Were very tired and oxygen depleted, we could do nothing for them; weather very strong so passed body without examining. Zawada & Co. - 27 Feb 80 List of winter preparations began with ascent of Noshaq in 1973; Lhotse 1974 to Dec reached 8250m for 1st time in winter and could observe weather conditions in Everest area. Everest: obtained permission very late, in Nov 1979 and reached KTM in Dec and BC last day of Dec. Climbing: search for route in Icefall and 8 Jan C1 established at 6050m; 9 Jan C2 at 6500m; 15 Jan C3 at 7150m near bottom of Lhotse Face. Wind not so difficult while lower camps established at lower altitudes, but every day winds strength grew. Several attempts to establish C4 unsuccessful and necessary stay in BC. C3 completely destroyed by wind in early Feb. C4 established 11 Feb after C3 restablished on 9 Feb. C4 on Col in 1 small biv tent in which could get no rest and 1st team first and 2 actual summiters made camp but had to go down 12 Feb without going higher. C4 tent because no snow at Col. Few hundred oxygen bottles visable and lot of destroyed tents. About 200 km/hr winds, at times and blew climbers upwards and only holding fixed rope could keep footing. Zurek blown 20m sideways when fixed on rope. Lowest temperature in BC = -24 degrees C and on S Col -42 degrees C; warmest at BC = -18 degrees C in 50 days there. Light strong American tent put on Col was very good; carried to Col by Zawada and Szafirski on 13 Feb. Then only 2 men on Col at night but next day Heinrich and Pasang came to Col while Zawada and Szafirski moved on. 14 Feb Szafirski to 8150m; Szafirski with 2 bottles of oxygen too heavy, 20 Kg deposited 1 bottle and returned to C4. Zawada did not go above C4 because had come direct from C2. Szafirski did not expect to reach top, to reach 300-400m above C4. 15 Feb - Heinrich and Pasang Norbu tried without oxygen (throughout climb) except sleeping a C4 and reached 8300m; then windy and snowfall. Their goal was to find best route to S Summit; if possible would have gone to top. Wielicki and Cichy sent as last chance; wind not so strong. Reached C4 16 Feb and 17 Feb left C4 at 7:00 am; each took 1 bottle; on top at 2:20 pm; hardest part from S Summit to top because of overhanging cornices. Had deep snow on ridge also and this made climb difficult with only 1 oxygen bottle each, used from Col to top to S Summit; descent from S Summit while very tired, from 4:30 pm to 9:00 pm to Col, with only one man moving at a time. All time strong wind and feared tent at C4 collapsed tripod found on top 30 cm above snow only legs. Summiters fixed minimum thermometer on tripod; will show next summiters what has been minimum since 17 Feb. Found inside tripod note presumably from Genet "1979 - for a good time call Pat Rucker, 274 - 2602 Anchorage, Alaska, USA" Stayed 40 minutes on summit. Wielicki and Zawada frostbitten toes. Zawada "now there will be a lot of winter expeditions especially for lot of 8000m peaks. "In winter all 8000m peaks are virgin again." Would like to do again by different route Bonington route or American route or Yugoslavian route, but not for our generation. Also very interesting would be winter ascent of K2 but problem is caravan. Alpine generation = 6-10 years Other routes on Everest mean new techniques Zawada "from Col to C3 a little too long." Szafirski and Zawada left Col at 4:00 pm, too late. When Zawada came to small part of face where no fixed rope, so dark Zawada couldn't find top of next fixed rope and did traverse and down 100m to Cwm, but steep ice field and had not rope. Zawada alone and experienced alpinist and so stayed in one place and dug little hole in snow to protect from wind. Waited with light and Wielicki and Cichy found him there at midnight; about -40 degrees C. Started down immediately and reached C3 5:00-6:00 am. 2awada has one frostbitten toe (right big toe). Wielicki more serious both big toes but not sure what will lose. Zawada goes to to Poland for 10 days. leaves about 5 March and returns 20 March. Zawada: "damn sure that this is would record; is very important that Everest is conquered in winter but not so important ????" Polish record European winter season 1 Dec 20 Monday In Feb stronger winds than in early Jan. Anyone who questions whether this ascent was in winter, I invite him to one of low camps. Is possible to conquer Everest in January but must start climb 1st Dec and establish all camps, then wait for that one day when wind dies down; this was hardest and most difficult and most dangerous climb any of us had & many don't want to do winter ascent again. Acclimatization, slower at lower temperatures. "One good thing in winter is no snow avalanche" but icefall still moving and serac collapsing may be from pressure of glacier from W Cwm and Lhotse Face crevasses a little. Many tents destroyed even in BC 4-5 times. SR Sharma - 15 Feb 80 Heinrich and Pasang reached 8350m without oxygen; because winds bad, cloudy weather and snowfall they came down and are in C3 about 2:30 pm. Zawada resting at C3, Szafirski is at C2. Tomorrow both plan to be in BC. Zawada could not go down further because needed rest but no frostbite. Cichy and Weilicki are in C3. Team requests extension to 17th of permit but govt not yet decided, maybe later today - so that Cichy and Weilicki make summit attempt on June (??); if they cannot reach S Col tomorrow, no need for 2-day extension. Permit extended to 20 Feb; summit today Cichy and Wielicki. Polish change expected at S Smt about 5 pm. 5:30 no info. Snow today; some wind and would never have tried this except today last day and it was Everest. SR Sharma, Tourism - 15 Feb 80 Today temperature BC -14 degrees, C2 -23 degrees, C4 -41 degrees. Wind at BC normal and C2 normal. Above S Col seems strong and cloudy. Yesterday Zawada and Szafirski left Col in am to go up. After 1/2-hour or more, Zawada became sick (respiration problem and oxygen supply problem = weak) and decided to descend below C4 and asked Szafirski to go on up alone. 150m above Col, Szafirski could go not further because of wind and he too decided to go down. Heinrich and Pasang reached C4 at 4:15 pm yesterday and Szafirski reached C3 at 5:00pm, but Zawada not there Cichy and Wielicki went to search for Zawada from C3 and found him. First 300m above C3 resting near a rock at 9:00 pm. 3 had to biv there last night and arrived C3 8:00 am today. Zawada OK - no major problem, no frostbite - today desending farther and Szafirski also descending today. Tody 8:00 am Heinrich and Pasang left Col to go up without oxygen. Will attempt sumit without oxygen. Radio contact at 3:00 again today - none from sumiters yesterday because they weak. SR Sharma, Tourism - 14 Feb 80 Zawada and Szafirski reached Col yesterday. Last contact from Col to BC yesterday 8:00 pm and said they would go to sumit today. After that no radio contact with them, Heinrich and Pasang without oxygen left C3 and reached col at 4:00 and 4:30 radio from Col to BC said they did not see Zawada and Szafirski - no further news. SR Sharma - 14 Feb 80 Zawada and Szafirski reached S Col yesterday 5:00 pm and planned to go towards summit today. No contact with them them from BC today so their movements today not known by 11:00 am radio contact with KTM. It appears from BC there is strong wind on SE Ridge today. Today two members and 1 Sherpa going from C3 to Col. SR Sharma - 13 Feb 80 3 went to South Col 11th went to C3 yesterday. Today Zawada and 1 member left C3 for Col; may attempt to summit tomorrow. Today BC to C3 wind normal, temperatures: C3 -29 degrees C C2 -24 degrees C BC -17 degrees C Weather very good. Lwow frostbite while making route from C3 upwards and today to BC - not serious. SR Sharma - 12 Feb 80 3 members reached S Col at 15:20 yesterday and established C4 in tents. Wwind very strong yesterday and temp -40 degrees at col today. Leszek Cichy, Walenty Fiut, Krzystof Wielicki & Jan Holnicki-Szulc left C3 but Jan could not reach Col because tired and returned to C3. Not decided when summit attempt. People in C2 and C3 leave today for higher camp. Summit attempt might be by these, not yesterday's S Col-ers. Summit attempt maybe tomorrow, maybe day after. SR Sharma, Tourism - 11 Feb 80 Today 4 members C3 to establish C4. Today best weather and wind including normal at BC -16 degrees at BC No one C1 -26 degrees C2 -33 degrees C3 - strong wind at C3 but normally so. SR Sharma, Tourism - 6 Feb 80 Today 102 km/hr wind at BC C2 3 members -32 degrees No movement upwards today because of wind. Zurek - 5 Feb 80 4 days enough if C4 established - but maybe no success. 7800m highest point reached Wielicki 21/22 Jan above yellow band. 2 days later 7500m reached by Zurek and 2 others and then dangerous from wind-blown ice particles 6 inches big. "We don't expect so strong wind" so consistently - expected more and longer calm periods. May not be possible to dig ice cave at Col - all rock, too little snow. Probably no C5, only dump especially of oxygen. In winter every member must have mask on face as in Antarctic. Shoes very important - if too soft don't give support with crampons. In winter expeditions must start earlier than we did. Mountain so high as Everest need minimum one month acclimatization. Zurek dislocated right arm, fell in crevasse near C2 and 2 weeks ago bad stomach which problem still with him. Sometimes 7% humidity - throats dry out badly. Zurek arrived KTM from SYB today - to Del/Frankfurt/Poland - leaves KTM 6 Feb. "So strong wind and so long I never see before, day night day night. You can't hide from it - very depressing. I am afraid many of our members have the same feeling of depression. This may be most serious obstacle to success after wind. Four days with no wind is enough for success. 4 days from C3 and return with oxygen deposit SE Ridge. Cold is not so strong - wind is the problem. In dry air, cold is more tolerable. Only Zurek ill - others came down before BC with him, but not ill. SR Sharma, Tourism - 5 Feb 80 105 km/hr at BC today - 8 degrees No one in C1 2 or 3 in C2 No one in C3 Strong wind in all camps. SR Sharma, Tourism - 4 Feb 80 110 km/hr wind BC since yesterday eve. BC -15 degrees today C1 -17 C2 -25 One tent blown away C2 yesterday reportedly 6 members above C3 to C2 now coming down mever reached C3 in past few days. Dhakal, Tourism - 1 Feb 80 Weather very good today probably C4 tomorrow on S Col Men who want to C3 yesterday dumped loads and slept in C2 4 members sick - 1 to KTM tomorrow, 3 to stay at SYB (Dr. is with them) SR Sharma, Tourism - 1 Feb 80 BC today -17 degrees, C1 -25 degrees & C2 -30 degrees C3 temperature not available but 2 men going there today C4 hope to establish 7-9th Feb. SR Sharma, Tourism - 31 Jan 80 3 members and 2 Sherpas today BC -> C1 2 members 3 Sherpas today C1 -> C3 C4 on Col 2 Feb, highest point 7800m reached so far by expedition BC -18 degrees today. Weather good and wind normal (= no wind) 1 member to KTM Sun ex-SYB (HEV charter) because illness. SR Sharma - 29 Jan 80 All in BC today - very tired so only LO at radio - plans not known BC -12 degrees today no wind at BC today will talk with Zawada on radio tomorrow Dhakal - 28 Jan 80 BC -19 degrees today C1 -22 degrees C2 & C3 no people 4 members from BC with altitude sickness - all members not well and leader coming to BC today. SR Sharma - 27 Jan 80 All team still in camps below C3, i.e. in BC, C1 and C2. Zawada in C1 some went up beyond C3 last week but unable reach South Col. Wind normal at BC - temp -24 degrees at BC Plans not known at BC SR Sharma, Tourism - 25 Jan 80 Today wind normal at BC BC -15 degrees C1 -24 degrees C2 -28 degrees Not able stay at C3 because of wind - all (18) in C2 and C1. Today cloudy Zawada C2 -> BC today and decision soon, LO says on whether to continue climbing. SR Sharma, Tourism - 23 Jan 80 - 4 degrees BC -25 degrees C1 -29 degrees C2 -30 degrees C3 Wind normal today 16 members and 4 Sherpas are above BC Maybe climbing above C3 today - were held up past several days by winds Sharma - 21 Jan 80 Hurricane last night - members at C3 couldn't sleep Today Ok C4 within 3-4 days 16 members are now above BC in C1, C2, C3 Dhakal, Tourism - 20 Jan 80 No C4 yesterday - winds today 15/meters per second Temperature last night -18 degrees in BC -29 degrees in C2 SR Sharma - 15 Jan 80 Today very windy 15 m/sec -17 degrees BC last night -26 degrees C1 -26 degrees C2 4 members C2 -> C3 today SR Sharma, Tourism - 16 Jan 80 C3 - 15 Jan, 7150m Today: temperature -21 degrees BC -26 degrees Weather excellent All well Trying to find safe route in Icefall - 3 members working on it SR Sharma, Tourism - 13 Jan 80 C2 - 9 Jan - 6500 Fine weather 9 Jan -17 degrees Sick member and LO returned to expedition SR Sharma - 9 Jan 80 C1 8 Jan 6000m -18 degrees at BC today in fine weather - fine yesterday C2 maybe today 1 member yesterday to Lobuche only with altitude sickness - name not given SR Sharma - 7 Jan 80 Heavy snowfall prevented establish of C1 as of yesterday evening's radio contact - still making on route in Icefall. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 4 Jan 80 Everest expedition established BC at 5630m on 31 Dec Today's weather fine at BC - temperature -16 degrees Zawada - 28 Dec 79 Expect establish BC 28 Dec. Yesterday permit from HMG to end 15 Feb for winter expeditions ascent but one more week to descend 20 members in winter. all Poles; 5 Sherpas and 4 BC staff and 1 L0 Temperature now -21 degrees in BC, -35 degrees in Cwm; even at BC much snow driven by wind 10 tons baggage by air Pol - Lukla 1 week - 10 days make C1 - top of Icefall C2 - in Cwm C3 - right of bottom Geneva Spur at 7200m then South Col will have ice hole = C4 and on SE Ridge C5 at 8400m in another ice hole - tents not possible in winter winds. Must use oxygen because in winter not experimenting - from C3 use oxygen: fond on Lhotse meant much greater speed of progress in mid-Jan established C4 - from South Col to summit is the big problem because of wind turbulence in South Col 1st party of expedition is in Thyangboche 2nd party now in Lukla 3rd party fly to Lukla and leave Lukla on 27th Dec Special equipment for small meter log measurement - minimum and maximum temperature and wind speed Zawada - Dec 79 Has permission for winter 1979-80 and spring 1980 - with 6 Sherpas (Pemba Nurbu = sirdar), 20 Polish members will attempt Everest in winter via South Col; then 10 members leave and another 10 arrive for spring climb via South Pillar Using oxygen. Fly to Lukla - Zawada hopes his wife will come to KTM in spring and he will meet her here for fortnight in KTM. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 4 Feb 79 Permission for Poles to climb Lhotse in winter awaits Cabinet action on new law providing for winter season; cabinet will probably act soon after HM returns from Pokhara [in about two weeks]. At least 37 men have scaled at least two 8000m peaks. Zygmunt Heinrich is only Pole who has scaled three (Zurek confirms). Zawada = 51 years old Szafirski = 42 years old Cichy = 28 Wielicki = 30 Everest In Winter, by leader Andrzej Zawada Two members of the Polish National Expedition, Mount Everest Winter 1979/80, reached the top of the world's highest mountain on Sunday, February 17, 1980 at 2:30 pm. It was an ever first winter attempt to scale the highest mountain of the world. And it met with a success. But it was not accidental. We, the Poles, have been preparing for it for years. In 1973 we organized successfully the winter expedition to Noshaq 7492m, Hindukush. This expedition provided us plenty of experience in winter climbing on high altitude. In 1974 Poles attempted to scale Lhotse, 8511m, in winter but unfortunately they could not succeed it although they had been able to reach up to the altitude 8250m. But should not forget to mention here that this winter expedition allowed us to study the weather conditions in the Everest region very carefully. The basic experience to attack the Everest in winter was accumulated. It is to pointed out that until the present expedition, no rules were formulated by the Nepal Govt for winter in Himalayas. Poles were the first to request the Ministry of Tourism of Nepal to give permission to climb Nepal Himalayas in winter and eventually they got this permission in Nov 1979. Thus the expedition had to be prepared in a very short time. The team members along with 9 tons of equipment came by Air India to KTM in the middle of Dec and were dispatched by plane to Lukla and thereafter to Khumbu Glacier on foot. The base camp was established on 31 Dec 1979. Next day we started searching a way for onward journey through the dangerous Icefall. We had to work very hardly for establishing a sequence camps and transporting the food and oxygen bottles. All these were done in a very hard winter conditions, frequently in hurricane wind and frost. The lowest temperature in the BC at the time noticed at -24 degree C and on the South Col at -42 degree C. On January 8, 1980 camp 1 was established at the height of 6050m by the team members A. Heinrich, K. Wielicki, J. Maczik, R. Szafirski, W. Fiut and K. Zurek. On Jan 9, 1980, camp 2 was established at the altitude of 6500m by the same team plus A. Lwow and M. Piekutowski. Third camp was pitched on 15th of January 1980 at the level of 7150m by K. Zurek, R. Gajewski and M. Pawlikowski. Unfortunately, after pitching the camp 3 their onward climbing was stopped due to strong hurricane winds. Their several attempts to reach South Col became unsuccessful. Numerous members fell ill or got frostbitten. Consequently, one of the members K. Zurek was compelled to go back to Poland. Due to the severe wind and storm camp 3 was completely destroyed and had to be reestablished. However, at last, after about one month's efforts on February 11, 1980, the 4th camp was established on the South Col at the height of 8000m by K. Wielicki, L. Cichy and W. Fiut. The first night in the camp 4 was very hard because of very strong wind, and it was impossible to establish the tent. Thus they had to spend the night in a small bivouac tent. Only the next team managed to establish a bigger tent but the weather conditions were still making the attack of the peak impossible. At last, on the 17th of February 1980 the weather permitted Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki to plant the Nepali and Polish flags on the top of the Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world. This added a new chapter in the history of world mountaineering in winter.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446356
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Josef Bakalowski M 1925 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Leszek Cichy M 1951 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Geodesic engineer Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Cielecki M 1935 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Geodesic engineer Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Dmoch M 1932 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Walenty Fiut M 1947 Poland Climber Lublin, Poland Student Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Gajewski M 1954 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Mountain rescuer Details Other expeditions
Zygmunt Andrzej (Zyga) Heinrich M 1937 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Jan Holnicki-Szulc M 1945 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Robert Janik M 1941 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Bogdan Jankowski M 1938 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Stanislaw Jaworski M 1946 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Aleksander Lwow M 1953 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Student Details Other expeditions
Janusz Maczka M 1949 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Geographer Details Other expeditions
Kazimierz Olech M 1928 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Maciej Jozef Pawlikowski M 1951 Poland Climber Poronin, Poland Technician Details Other expeditions
Marian Piekutowski M 1950 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Szafirski M 1937 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Wielicki M 1950 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Zurek M 1944 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Economist Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Zawada M 1928 Poland Leader Warsaw, Poland Geophysical engineer Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER79401 AAJ Brniak, Marek Two Polish Ascents of Everest (The Winter Ascent) - 55:51-52 (1981) -
EVER79401 AJ Zawada, Andrzej Mount Everest - The First Winter Ascent - 89:50-58 (1984) -
EVER79401 - Cichy, Leszek Rozmowy o Everescie Mlodziezowa Agencja Wydawnicza, Warsaw - C267
EVER79401 - Adamiecki, Wojciech Zdobyc Everest Iskry, Warsaw - A85
EVER79401 - Kowalewski, Zbigniew & Paczkowski, Andrzej Mount Everest Wydwanictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - K310
EVER79401 MM - - - 72:14 (Mar 1980) -
EVER79401 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Everest - 76:30-43 (Nov 1980) -
EVER79401 IM Robak, Kazimierz Everest, The First Winter Ascent - 6:3-8 (Autumn 1980) -
EVER79401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198105100/Two-Polish-Ascents-of-Everest - - -
EVER79401 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1984_files/AJ%201984%2050-59%20Zawada%20Everest.pdf - - -