Everest | 1979 N Face (recon to 6400m)
A Japan expedition to Everest in 1979 via N Face (recon to 6400m), led by Atsuo Saito. Summit reached on 12th October 1979. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2107 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER79302 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Face (recon to 6400m) |
| Route 2 | N Col (recon to 6800m) |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Atsuo Saito |
| Sponsor | Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Rongbuk Glacier |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-09-26 |
| Summit Date | 1979-10-12 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 16 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 6 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6800m due to fatal avalanche |
| High Point (m) | 6800 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 10 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 3 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | True |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(26/09,5150m),C1(5550m),C2(6150m),Central Rongbuk Glacier(08/10,6400m); East Rongbuk Glacier.C3(10/10,6500m),xxx(12/10,6800m) |
| Route Notes | Shohei Wada - 7 Jan 80 Member 1980 Japan Everest Expedition North side of Everest reconnaissance Last autumn: 9 Japanese members of whom 8 were climbers plus about 10 Chinese assistant climbers. Routes reconnoitered were: 1. Main Rongbuk Glacier to N Face 2. East Rongbuk Glacier to NE Ridge in 2 separate parties. 1st route, party reached 6500m. Very difficult to find a camp site on N Face at 6000-6500m and Chinese porters will have trouble in Spring attempt with steep technical parts. Above 6500m face is not so steep. No accidents during recce of this route. On 2nd route, did not reach N Col. Were struck by avalanche at c6800m while making route. 6 climbers were in this party, climbing improved on gentle slope when avalanche hit. 1 Japanese and 3 Chinese swept down 200m by avalanche. 1 Japanese, Ryoten Hasegawa, Churen Himal summiter on Meiji University expedition, had 6 ribs broken. 3 Chinese killed (1 Chinese was well-known Han Chinese mountaineer who had gone to 8500m on Everest in 1975). Wada was not on 1979 recce. Hasihua, Correspondent - 2 Dec 79 3 Chinese assistants (including 1 Tibetan) died in an avalanche at North Col of Everest in Oct on Sino-Japanese recce. |
| Accidents | 3 Chinese assistants died in avalanche |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | EVER80103 |
| Checksum | 2446228 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face (recon to 6400m) |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Atsuo Saito | M | 1929 | Japan | Leader | Kyoto, Japan | Surgeon & research member of medical dept of Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| San Luo | M | - | China | H-A Assistant | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Tashi | M | - | China | H-A Assistant | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Hong-Bao Wang | M | - | China | H-A Assistant | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ryoten Hasegawa | M | 1947 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Tokyo, Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeyuki Okajima | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gota Isono | M | 1954 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Travel agency employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Ozaki | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Kameyama, Mie, Japan | Employee of Kameyama-Automobile Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Susumu Nakamura | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kotaro Yokoyama | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazushige Takami | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Hiroshima, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Kitagawa | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Cameraman on Mainichi Broadcasting System's television film team | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER79302 | AAJ | Suzuki, Hiroyuki | - | - | 53:658 (1980) | - |
| EVER79302 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 68:275 (1994) | - |
| EVER79302 | IM | Motwani, Prem Kumar | Rising Sun on Chomolungma | - | 7:26-37 (Spring 1981) | - |
| EVER79302 | IWA | - | - | - | 74:150 (1980) | - |
| EVER79302 | IWA | - | - | - | 74:32 (1980) | - |
| EVER79302 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198065801/Asia-ChinaTibet-Bodies-on-Mount-Everest | - | - | - |
| EVER79302 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427500/Asia-Tibet-Everest-More-on-Earlier-Chinese-Expeditions | - | - | - |