Everest | 1979 N Face (recon to 6400m)

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1979 via N Face (recon to 6400m), led by Atsuo Saito. Summit reached on 12th October 1979. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2107
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER79302
Peak ID EVER
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (recon to 6400m)
Route 2 N Col (recon to 6800m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Atsuo Saito
Sponsor Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Rongbuk Glacier
Basecamp Date 1979-09-26
Summit Date 1979-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6800m due to fatal avalanche
High Point (m) 6800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 3
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown True
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/09,5150m),C1(5550m),C2(6150m),Central Rongbuk Glacier(08/10,6400m); East Rongbuk Glacier.C3(10/10,6500m),xxx(12/10,6800m)
Route Notes Shohei Wada - 7 Jan 80 Member 1980 Japan Everest Expedition North side of Everest reconnaissance Last autumn: 9 Japanese members of whom 8 were climbers plus about 10 Chinese assistant climbers. Routes reconnoitered were: 1. Main Rongbuk Glacier to N Face 2. East Rongbuk Glacier to NE Ridge in 2 separate parties. 1st route, party reached 6500m. Very difficult to find a camp site on N Face at 6000-6500m and Chinese porters will have trouble in Spring attempt with steep technical parts. Above 6500m face is not so steep. No accidents during recce of this route. On 2nd route, did not reach N Col. Were struck by avalanche at c6800m while making route. 6 climbers were in this party, climbing improved on gentle slope when avalanche hit. 1 Japanese and 3 Chinese swept down 200m by avalanche. 1 Japanese, Ryoten Hasegawa, Churen Himal summiter on Meiji University expedition, had 6 ribs broken. 3 Chinese killed (1 Chinese was well-known Han Chinese mountaineer who had gone to 8500m on Everest in 1975). Wada was not on 1979 recce. Hasihua, Correspondent - 2 Dec 79 3 Chinese assistants (including 1 Tibetan) died in an avalanche at North Col of Everest in Oct on Sino-Japanese recce.
Accidents 3 Chinese assistants died in avalanche
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID EVER80103
Checksum 2446228
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (recon to 6400m)

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Atsuo Saito M 1929 Japan Leader Kyoto, Japan Surgeon & research member of medical dept of Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
San Luo M - China H-A Assistant - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Tashi M - China H-A Assistant - - Details Other expeditions
Hong-Bao Wang M - China H-A Assistant - - Details Other expeditions
Ryoten Hasegawa M 1947 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Shigeyuki Okajima M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Gota Isono M 1954 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Travel agency employee Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ozaki M 1952 Japan Climber Kameyama, Mie, Japan Employee of Kameyama-Automobile Co. Details Other expeditions
Susumu Nakamura M 1946 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Kotaro Yokoyama M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Kazushige Takami M 1945 Japan Climber Hiroshima, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Takashi Kitagawa M 1948 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Cameraman on Mainichi Broadcasting System's television film team Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER79302 AAJ Suzuki, Hiroyuki - - 53:658 (1980) -
EVER79302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:275 (1994) -
EVER79302 IM Motwani, Prem Kumar Rising Sun on Chomolungma - 7:26-37 (Spring 1981) -
EVER79302 IWA - - - 74:150 (1980) -
EVER79302 IWA - - - 74:32 (1980) -
EVER79302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198065801/Asia-ChinaTibet-Bodies-on-Mount-Everest - - -
EVER79302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427500/Asia-Tibet-Everest-More-on-Earlier-Chinese-Expeditions - - -