Everest | 1979 Lho La-W Ridge (up); N Face (Hornbein)-W Ridge (down)
A Yugoslavia expedition to Everest in 1979 via Lho La-W Ridge (up); N Face (Hornbein)-W Ridge (down), led by Tone Skarja. Summit reached on 13th May 1979. 32 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2101 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER79101 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Lho La-W Ridge (up); N Face (Hornbein)-W Ridge (down) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Yugoslavia |
| Leaders | Tone Skarja |
| Sponsor | Yugoslavs on Everest |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 32nd,33rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-03-28 |
| Summit Date | 1979-05-13 |
| Summit Time | 1351 |
| Summit Days | 46 |
| Total Days | 54 |
| Termination Date | 1979-05-21 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 31 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 20 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 1 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Khumbutse (KHUM-791-01) by Franc Knez |
| Campsites | BC(28/03,5350m),C1(06/04,6050m),C2(14/04,6770m),C3(18/04,7170m),C4(27/04,7550m),C5(02/05,8100m),Smt(13,15/05) |
| Route Notes | Skarja - 7 May 2013 A pulley was used to convey about 5000 kg of supplies 200m up onto the Lho La. It worked very well where they had it, but the Americans' effort was in an unfavorable place where the loads constantly swung against the rock face, which is why they stopped using it. Kunaver - 4 Sept 79 Yugo Everest Expedition's route: From Lho La, went left onto north side of W Shoulder. At highest part of W Ridge, 1st summit team followed ridge all the way up to summit and down via Hornbein Couloir. 2nd team traversed slightly left onto face going up because Ang Phu would not have managed a difficult overhang; also down via Hornbein Couloir. Expedition had no indication of any HMG displeasure at their having been on North Face. Skarja - 25 May 79 1st attempt for summit [Groselj and Manfreda] did not find right route and had oxygen problem; they were those who came to KTM with frostbite. 2nd group [Podbevsek and Robas] also had trouble finding correct route. Used Hornbein Couloir in descent because bad weather in afternoon including fog required use of easier route; also lack of fixed rope high on ridge. 3 or 4 May were ready to make 1st attempt but very strong wind 150 km/hr and -40 degrees C temperature. Groselj & Manfreda - 18 May 79 Groselj, Manfreda, Vavken arrived today by helicopter. Manfreda (3 fingers) and Groselj (5 toes) and doctor Ok; stay in KTM 2-3 days and in Delhi 2-3 days. Frostbite: 1st attempt ascent started from C5 on 10 May; wall very hard and Groselj had oxygen trouble. Manfreda had to go without oxygen because so difficult, could have no load. Put in fixed rope which was key to success 3 days later. C5 established 9 May at 8100m. No C6 at all. 13 May Zaplotnik and Stremfelj to summit from C5 and down via Hornbein Colouir because no fixed ropes above C4 at 9:30 pm. Left C5 going up at 5:30 am; summit at 1:51 pm; are Ok, no frostbite. 15 May from C5 3 men at 5:00 am; on top about 2:20 pm and also down via colouir; biv that night at 8000m in colouir; stopped descent about 9:00 pm because of snowstorm and wind. 16 May about 5 am again began descent. 3rd team for summit [Bergant, Kotnik and Matijevec] went to help this 2nd group; from C5 up and then down to Couloir and met at 6:00-7:00 am; summiters very tired but not frostbitten. Bozic and Belak reached C4 about 12 noon with 3 helpers. When 2 parties met, helpers went to shake hands in congrats, Ang Phu made a mis-step, fell 20m, lost ice axe, unable to stop himself and fell 2000m down Main Rongbuk Glacier from 8000m. 17 May from C1 4 Sherpas and 3 Yugoslavia found body in pieces and Sherpas put pieces in crevasse. 7 men went to site together which is 1-1/2 km east of Lho La. Ang Phu's family at BC today saying Yugoslavia killed him. 1st summit team were actually 3rd planned to - on 11 May two members were 1st but got no where really. Groselj & Manfreda - 18 May 79 Ang Phu and 1 Yugoslav had just emerged from bottom of Hornbein's Couloir at about 8000m when met by helpers and he fell - other Yudoslav still in it. Yugoslavia followed AMME 1963 West Ridge route all the way from to C4 which was same place as US C4. Groselj and Manfreda put in same fixed rope above C5, but not enough fixed rope above C5 for safe descent. Bad weather about 11 May was believed to be monsoon (actually was cyclone in Bay of Bengal) so expedition thought had no time to put in fixed rope. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 79 Yesterday's 3 summiters could not reach C4 last night because of bad weather and made temporary camp. At 8:00 am today 2 Yugoslavs reached C4 but at 7600m, just above C4 and just few minutes before 8:00 am, Ang Phu slipped and was not found as of 12:30 pm; still searching for him. Expedition probably stopped climbing. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 May 79 Zaplotnik and Stremfelj reached summit. Started at 5 am 13 May from C6 8700m and on top 13:15 hours. Coming down slowly but steadily as of 4:30 pm because of high wind. 1st 2 groups failed to reach top: names and reasons not known. 4th group tomorrow. AXT - 10 May 79 Yesterday 5 men at C5 at about 8200m and hoped to try today for top from C5. West Ridge best: no Icefall and see both Nepal and Tibet are right on the West Ridge. Yugoslavs apparently first onto Lho La from Nepalese side. From Tibetan side: 1921 - George Leigh Mallary and George Bullock recce 1935 - Eric Shipton and LV Bryant; HW Tilman and EHL Wigram also recce Tone Skarja - 20 Feb 79 True West Ridge route BC usual site C1 on East Ridge of Khumbutse 6050m (last 300m much loads up) C2 on ridge of West Shoulder 6600m C3 top of West Shoulder 7200m C4 on Everest on West Ridge 7400m, 1-1/2 km from C3 C5 high on West Ridge 8000m C6 West Ridge 8500m Total route 10 km; about 5 km from where shoulder joins Everest proper. Leave KTM 3 March Arrive Pheriche 25 March Arrive BC 31 March 6 weeks to summit, top about 15-25 May Technically most difficult BC to C1; on West Shoulder new snow avalanching; again technical difficult C4 to C5 25 climbers including doctors and 5 photographers and journalists 20 Sherpas Use oxygen above C4. |
| Accidents | Ang Phu Sherpa fell to death on descent |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446076 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | lho la-w ridge (up); n face (hornbein)-w ridge (down) |
Members
32 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zvonimir (Zvone) Andrejcic | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Lesce, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Locksmith | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf | M | 1940 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Borut Bergant | M | 1954 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Trzic, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Machinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Stipe Bozic | M | 1951 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Split, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Matjaz Culiberg | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Camera crew's sound technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Muhamed Gafic | M | 1948 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Sarajevo, Bosnia, Yugoslavia | Electrical technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Viktor (Viki) Groselj | M | 1952 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Tomaz Stanko Jamnik | M | 1938 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanko (Stane) Klemenc | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Francek Knez | M | 1955 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Machinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Ivan (Ivc) Kotnik | M | 1951 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Velenje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mining engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Rade Kovacevic | M | 1936 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Novi Sad, Serbia, Yugoslavia | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Marjan Manfreda | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Bohinjska, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Stefan Marence | M | 1951 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Medvode, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Vanja Matijevec | M | 1946 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Staff member, government sports organisation | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir (Vlado) Mesaric | M | 1949 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Franc Novinc | M | 1938 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Skofja Loka, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Painter (artist) | Details Other expeditions |
| Dusan Podbevsek | M | 1958 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Bojan Pollak | M | 1943 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Marjan Raztresen | M | 1936 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Roman Robas | M | 1942 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Medvode, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Slavko Setina | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Camera crew's sound technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Anton (Tone) Skarja | M | 1937 | Yugoslavia | Leader | Menges, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Electrical technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Muhamed Sisic | M | 1948 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Sarajevo, Bosnia, Yugoslavia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrej Stremfelj | M | 1956 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Student of physical education | Details Other expeditions |
| Marko Stremfelj | M | 1954 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Igor Tekavcic | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Slavko Vajt | M | 1935 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Evgen Vavken | M | 1927 | Yugoslavia | Exp Doctor | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jernej (Nejc) Zaplotnik | M | 1952 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Joze Zupan | M | 1954 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | University student | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phu Sherpa | M | 1950 | Nepal | Sirdar | Khumjung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
13 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER79101 | AAJ | Skarja, Tone | The Complete West Ridge of Everest | - | 53:429-436 (1980) | - |
| EVER79101 | HJ | Skarja, Tone | Yugoslav Everest Expedition | - | 37:1-2 (1979-80) | - |
| EVER79101 | - | Skarja, Tone | Everest | Mladinska Knjiga, Ljubljana | - | S582 |
| EVER79101 | - | Bozic, Stipe | Put Na Vrh Svijeta | Slobodna Dalmacija, Split, Croatia | - | - |
| EVER79101 | MM | - | - | - | 68:13 (Jul 1979) | - |
| EVER79101 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Everest | - | 76:30-43 (Nov 1980) | - |
| EVER79101 | - | Andlovic, Joze | Na Vrh Svijeta | Globus, Zagreb | - | K367 |
| EVER79101 | - | Groselj, Viki | Do Prvih Zvezd | Zalozba Obzorja, Maribor, Yugoslavia | - | G381 |
| EVER79101 | - | Groselj, Viki | Everest, Sanje in Resnicnost | Didakta, Ljubljana | - | - |
| EVER79101 | - | Kriselj, Marijan | YU3DRL-9N1YU, Mount Everest, Sagarmatha | Zalozba Obzorja, Maribor, Yugoslavia | - | - |
| EVER79101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198042900/The-Complete-West-Ridge-of-Everest | - | - | - |
| EVER79101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/2/yugoslav-everest-expedition/ | - | - | - |
| EVER79101 | - | - | http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17f/wfeature-the-life-of-francek-knez | - | - | - |