Everest | 1976 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1976 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Phillip R. Trimble. Summit reached on 8th October 1976. 20 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2194
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER76301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1976
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Phillip R. Trimble
Sponsor American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 22nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Netherlands
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1976-08-26
Summit Date 1976-10-08
Summit Time 1614
Summit Days 43
Total Days 48
Termination Date 1976-10-13
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 19
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 23
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/08),C1(02/09,5900m),C2(08/09,6480m),C3(10/09,7000m),C4(25/09,7470m),C5(01/10,7985m),C6(07/10,8380m),Smt(08/10)
Route Notes Trimble & Cormack - 16 Oct 76 Cormack lost 30 lbs, wispy beard - from Syangboche. Chandler in Khumbu for couple more days, in Namche on expedition business. Results of expedition speak for themselves. Great success for us. Very pleased we got record break from weather enabled us to get some people on top and get them back without any accidents. Cormack can easily imagine tripod being buried. Was 6 feet tall when Cormack saw it. There were tattered remnants of flags but impossible to identify. Trimble got through icefall quicker than Bonington team, then stopped by 6 days of blizzards. Can Everest be conquered without oxygen; "not by me" said Cormack, would make it very difficult. Morgan, Emmett, Pilafian, Hoover and 2 Summiters to South Col and 3 more reached Geneva Spur (same altitude) = 2nd summit team Members did establish C4 and C5. Ang Phurba's dropping out probably did slow summiters down because 3rd strong man would have been helpful in deep snow up to South Summit. Cut down summit teams because not enough oxygen on C5 and 2 who were expected be in 1st team came down with diarrhea. So picked strongest of 2 teams who were well. Terribly uncomfortable 1st night in C6 with 3 men in 2-man tent. On descent so tired fell asleep on sleeping bag. Summit is narrow ridge only few feet wide and 20-30 feet long. Wind too strong to stand and move at same time going up. How felt on top 4 or 5 seconds of awestruck that did made it to top and then I wanted to get away from there. 2nd attempt dropped: Trimble weather didn't permit it: very high winds making it virtually impossible to cross South Col. Chances there'd be a break in weather long enough to gear up very slim. All feeling worn down. Arlene Blum made a carry to C4; Barb Roach only to C2. Big help was more pressure in oxygen bottles than any one has had before. No hash on expedition; totally denied by Trimble. On way to South Summit boring: kicking steps in deep snow; after top thought of survival. "A true solo attempt impossible" - Trimble. No skiing. Roberts - 13 Oct 76 Only few minutes on top. Weather bad, no view at all, snowing and no visability. Concentrated on safety of descent and very tired. Just didn't notice it. 12 Oct 76 Talked to Trimble and Hoover All safe at BC. Last Sherpas came down this 8:30 am. Feel extremely lucky with Icefall. 5 days ago massive collapse near 1970 Japanese ski accident and no one in vicinity. Ladders twisted and crumpled and pulled apart. Leave BC tomorrow am and fly out from Lukla 17th. All in good health. Hoover sounded good on radio this am and 2 summiters having good breakfast. He had simply been exhausted. Trimble and Hoover to Obea: Summit day: late start because problems - winds not too bad at C6 (Hoover thinks winds that day never below 80mph ). An hour or so later Ang Phurba oxygen regulator iced over and could not be fixed. Some time spent on this: thought then they were so late there was no point in going on up, but decided to go on climbing up until 4 pm. At 4 pm they were 50 ft below summit. By time on final summit ridge above Hillary Step which were greatly helped getting up by a previous expedition's fixed rope. Did not stop for lunch but stopped to help Sherpa with half empty oxygen cylinder each and this took an hour over and below South Summit. They were cold. Chandler's oxygen also giving trouble and lasted another half hour; reached South Summit 12:45 pm. 2:30 started up again by time on final sumit ridge winds too bad. They could hardly stand up; Cormack guessed wind over 100 mph. Would talk few steps then crouch. At 4 pm were 50 ft from top and went on and soon saw Chinese tripod and remnants of other people's flags. Got to top at 4:14 pm and stayed there 30 mins; winds still bad. Cormack didn't go to trouble to get small US flag at bottom his pack and Chandler did take out green scarf and tied it to tripod. Scarf was blessed by a lama probably at Thyangboche. Started down; only thing made it possible to move as quickly as possible was will to get out of there. Reached C6 at 7:30 pm in moonlight and had rest in C6 next am without oxygen. Left C6 to C5 and took long time because of exhaustion and lack of oxygen, falling often, stumbling with Chandler, in end crawling part way. Oxygen at C5 but Hoover pretty weak but Pema of Thami pillar of strength. No 2nd assault: too much wind and impossibility of restocking C5 and C6 under such conditions. Go home fever, would not tolerate within. Didn't want to tempt fate. Obea, USIS - 11 Oct 76 am Try to get everyone to BC today and leave 13th or 14th for Lukla via Namche with arrival KTM 17th. No 2nd attempt because winds worse on Col and Sherpas not keen on going up and Trimble as leader further felt attempts not worth risks to Sherpas and members. Also Hoover pretty badly battered from 4 days on Col: barely strong enough to make it down. Came down with help to C2 last night. No one last night above C2. Nearly everyone was in C2 for decision to stop. 2nd team probably did not reach C5. "Fast and sassy" says Dr Crouch of 1st team who yesterday was at C2. 1st team's late start over Ang Phurba's oxygen regulator; winds slowed ascent. Trimble: pride and relief. MB Pandey, MFA - 10 Oct 76 Decided not to make further attempt. All in C2 now except Hoover in C4 and all in Base Camp 1 tomorrow. Hoover seems sick. MB Pandey, MFA - 9 Oct 76 LO: 2 summiters members seen this man coming down from C6 by those in C5. This first news of them since yesterday afternoon and reached C5 13:30 today. Spent last night at C6. Yesterday 12:45 pm reached South Summit and took lunch and at 2:00 crossed Hillary Step and 16:15 hours reached top and stayed 30 minutes. Nepal and US flags with Ang Phurba, so not to top. 16:45 started descent and reached C6. Their health is good and are going down. 2nd summit team not decided. Kent Obea, USIS - 9 Oct 76 State of jubilation in all camps. Crouch from BC all terribly relieved to move their summiters back (safely) and obviously very proud of their accomplishment. Mike Hoover and Pema - supporting summiters with Roach, Ridgeway, Bruyntjes up to meet them. Assess if summiters needed help; if not, 2nd team on up to C5 if winds not to bad. Winds up to 100 mph or more at all day today on Col; that's why they were slow today. Hoover said you could hardly stand on Col today. Hoover said summiters they in fine shape, no signs of frostbite. Apparently heavy winds yesterday slowed them. Try to get to C2 today, if not at least to C4. Clear and windy on summit. Second summit attempt 12th or 13th if at all and 3rd attempt not even being contemplated. Highest Blum ever reached was C3 and Barb Roach C2, Emmett and Morgan left BC for KTM today and could reach KTM Monday from Syangboche. Obea, USIS - 8 Oct 76 Yesterday full moon. Emmett, Morgan, B Roach (BC people) on Pumori ridge watching climbers. Until clouds come on them, watchers could watch 2 figures silouetted on ridge beyond Hillary Step and an hour after that, moving slowly and having stopped 20-30 minutes at Step last seen (3:30 pm) makes them about 200 vertical feet below summit and one assumes they were going on up (have special NASA oxygen tank which gives 2 times oxygen of others and full moon so could come down in moon light). No walkie-talkie in C6. Phurba's mask failed. Obea, USIS - 8 Oct 76 Ang Phurba Sherpa, Khumjung, 27 years old, climbing sirdar this expedition 2 times to 27,000 ft on face 1972 and 1975 No 2 Sherpa after Pertemba for summit on 1975 face 1971 International: to C5 at 26,000 ft MB Pandey, MFA - 8 Oct 76 Shortly after leaving C6 oxygen set of Ang Phurba failed and he had to stop climbing and returned to C4. C & C continued to climb at about 12:45 reached South Summit and approx 14:30 hours seen crossing Hillary Step and shortly thereafter cloud obscured vision of people watching below. Obea, USIS - 8 Oct 76 Talked to Emmett this am. Summit team left C6 7:30 am today, about an hour a bit later than expected: Chandler, Cormack and Ang Phurba Sherpa. Today weather lovely. Best day in terms of dainty yesterday, but "fairly heavy winds" on South Col Hoover reported to BC, so BC a little bit worried about wind. Morgan yesterday we said getting noticably colder: C2, 15 to 25 degree F low night time. Hoover estimated 50 mph winds on Col yesterday. 2nd team did not go to C5 today but are still in C4 because Sherpas coming down and new Sherpa team up so 2nd team's summit bid delayed 1 or 2 days (Wright is not with 2nd team). Hoover did not go to C6 because not enough oxygen for him to climb higher. Pandey, MFA - 7 Oct 76 Today 15:00 hours 2 members (Chandler and Cormack) and 1 Sherpa (Ang Phurba) established SE Ridge 27,500 ft C6 and last camp. Tomorrow 3 will try summit. 2nd group summit 10 Oct Gerry Roach, Ridgeway, Bruyntjes now in C4. Kent Obea, USIS - 7 Oct 76 Today will try to make C6 as higher as possible on SE Ridge. Sherpas go in support and then return to Col. Weather this am good weather = clear, no wind. Today the first time any climbing above Col Today's summit party may or may not include Hoover. Had not gotten as much stocks on Col as had hoped so may not be enough oxygen and food for Hoover. 2nd summit team more certain G. Roach, Ridgeway and Bruyntjes and perhaps Wright. Leave 2 to 4 today, 4 to 5 tomorrow. 3rd assault very questionable thing, not even staffed. Very strong feeling they can't push their luck too far with weather. Thyangboche rimpoche says bad weather after 1st week Oct. Also urged to get off mountain before someone gets killed. Emmett and Morgan to BC today. Emmett may come to KTM early for expedition business. Pandey, MFA - 6 Oct 76 Today, 15:30 hrs 3 members: Chandler, Cormack, Hoover 9 Sherpas including Ang Phurba C5 Everest 26,200 ft South Col Kent Obea, USIS - 6 Oct 76 Yesterday evening news: No new camps: 5 camps not to be established until summit teams on way up. Supply movements have been going up the mountain [or to C4 and above] on schedule. Hoping establish C5 from C4 today by 1st summit team: Chandler, Cormack, Ang Phurba Hoover to film as high he can Went from C2 to C4 yesterday. Next summit team hoping to go up 2 days later, probably G. Roach, Bruyntjes, Ridgeway Blum is in C2. Might be in 3rd summit team if one takes place; debilated by dysentery. When would go up not decided. No definite plans for 2nd team smaller teams because of who's strong and stocks supplies. Have had good weather generally on the mountain sunny and relatively little wind. Crouch and Morgan in C2 (as is everyone except B. Roach and Ang Phurba, who where in BC and White who left expedition). Today apparently tired themselves out at C4 and on making route to C5. C6 somewhere on SE Ridge "they feel pretty good about "their chances of success, Obea gathers. Obea, USIS - 1 Oct 76 Virtually got route to C6. Camp itself not yet up - maybe today or tomorrow. Shepras have been almost to Col. Everybody down at BC except 2 at C2 (Trimble and Reinhard) and 3 in C4 (Crouch, Morgan and Pilafian). Those in C4 probably will go to C5 and then to BC. Chandler and Ridgeway on BC probably will do carries to C2 and return to BC today or tomorrow. New summit dates 9th and 11th Oct, but these still subject to change as is membership of summit teams Blum not yet fully recovered from dysentery. B Roach did not reacclimatize in time to feel well at C2 and is not likely ever to get higher than C2. Wright had flu and now well; Chandler, Gerard Roach and Ridgeway very strong. Obea, USIS - 29 Sept 76 Yesterday evening Dan Emmett said: yesterday good weather and progress: clear most of day. Ang Phurba and Sherpa team continued make route progress toward C5. Crouch and Morgan went to C4 from C2 reopening route which had been partially closed by snow on 27th. Staying in C4 and will stay there 2 or 3 more days making route. Hope to establish C5 today or tomorrow. In C2 Trimble, yesterday Reinhard, Pilafian, 2 Roaches. 2 Roaches to BC today; Trimble, Reinhard and Pilafian stay at C2 and all others at BC yesterday. Summit days now 8 & 10 Oct because of 1 day bad weather on 27 Sept. Pandey, MFA - 29 Sept 76 C5 by tomorrow. Windy but not too strong. Crouch and Morgan are helping make route to C5 and will stay at C4 not to BC. Kent Obea, USIS - 27 Sept 76 Another snowstorm today impeded movement. No effort to make route C5 today but yesterday pushed a goal way up ("good progress") by Sherpas headed by Ang Phurba, head of climbing Sherpas, who is turning in an incredible performance. All reach BC tomorrow or 29th except Trimble and Reinhard Blum till slightly weak and Chandler arrived yesterday BC Ridgeway and Bruyntjes today at BC, Cormack earlier at BC 3 CBC in BC: Hoover, White and Smokler and AP (Smokler will probably leave expedition in next few days; Hoover plans to go up soon) In C1 Emmett and Wright (would have gone today to BC if weather better) Last of route to C4 was made by members but move actually in C4. JOM Roberts - 27 Sept 76 Ang Phurba very strong on Bonington expedition. Would have gone to summit with them. Katsering good chap, others maybe young. Can't at this changeable time of year strange letting Sherpas take over also very strange. In 1963 allowed escorted Sherpas on col after route made, very doubtful preposition indeed. Also members should get acclimatization in higher camps. MB Pandey, MFA - 27 Sept 76 Team decided Sherpas alone will establish C5 South Col 26,200 ft. Leader selected 2 groups to attempt summit. If all well including weather, 7 & 9 Oct: 1) Gerard Roach Dee Crouch Dan Emmett Bob Cormack Ang Phurba Sherpa 2) Chris Chandler Rick Ridgeway Frank Morgan Arlene Blum Hans Bruyntjes Trimble is alternative for either team. All will come to BC today for rest except Trimble and Reinhard who stay at C2. Since 18:00 hours yesterday light snowfall until 8 radio contact. No Americans reached C4. MB Pandey, MFA - 26 Sept 76 Yesterday 12 noon 5 HA Sherpas established C4 at 24,500 ft. Not single member reached C4 yesterday. Ang Phurba Pasang Norbu Ang Mingma Katsering Lhakpa Gyalzen and these 5 Sherpas today making on route to C5. Today fine clear weather. C4 delayed by 1-2 days strong winds preceding days. Obea, USIS - 22 Sept 76 Talked yesterday 4:00 pm. Yesterday nicest day they have had yet - no snow. Both White and Blum much better. White at BC. Blum at C2 and went to C3 yesterday on recce with Trimble and Bruyntjes and all returned to C2. She Ok. Now in C3 and working on route to C4 are Cormack, Ridgeway and Chandler and Reinhard. BC yesterday 2 Roaches (leaving up today), Crouch, White, A.P. (Ang Phurba), Emmett and Morgan; all planned go up today except White and A.P. Wright and Pilafian in C2 with Trimble, Blum and Bruyntjes. Hoped make C4 today or tomorrow. Hoover not yet at BC, expected last night. MB Pandey, MFA - 21 Sept 76 (From LO this am.) White improving, Blum coming to BC today. Cloudy and scattered snow showers. Obea, USIS - 20 Sept 76 "Peter" White has been having trouble acclimatizing ever since adapted; about Blum Obea doesn't know about [Obea talked yesterday afternoon to BC to Emmett]. Saturday was rest day. Sunday supplies up mountain. C3 reopened; old C3 totally knocked down by snowstorms and new tents erected at same site at 23,000 ft by 4 members Bruyntjes, Chandler, Ridgeway and Reinhard and these 4 were yesterday working on Lhotse Face and presumably they will stay out in front for several days towards C4 site while others and Sherpas bringing up supplies to C2 and C3. Trimble in C2 and well. Hoover went to Namche for R & R. Storm delayed expedition by 1 week. Pandey, MFA - 20 Sept 76 Sick: Arlene Blum, C2 Peter White, C1 Efforts being made to bring them to BC Trying to make route towards Lhotse Face Kent Obea, USIS - 17 Sept 76 Situation improved. Bad weather began to clear up yesterday. Move: C1 to C2 and C2 to C1 and today to BC. In C2 yesterday, now in BC: Cormack Reinhard Morgan Emmett G. Roach Crouch Wright C1 to C2 yesterday: Bruyntjes Blum Chandler Ridgeway Trimble today in C1, hopes to go to C2 tomorrow. In past 2 days 23 porter loads from BC to C2. Day before yesterday really bad day: large avalanche between C1 and C2; several feet of snow; whiteout - no movement. Hoover said 5 feet snow during entire period. B Roach reached BC, feels fine and she and husband hope go to C2 next day or so. Avalanches constantly Nobody to C2 today; those in C2 hope to go to C3 tomorrow. Kent Obea, USIS - 14 Sept 76 US embassy source: After C3 3 days snow ground progress to halt 18 "-2" at BC Icefall closed: will have to reopen route Each camp adequately provisianal - members strong Two teams of lead climbers 1) who made C2 and C3 and Chandler and Ridgeway Ridgeway and Chandler pushed 500 ft above C3 Friday, which probably last climbing day although Sat am weather fine 2) Trimble, Blum, Hans B, Cormack (not fixed groups) Mrs Roach still not at BC as of 13 Sept - was at Syangboche Sat Snowing last 5:00 pm right when I was on radio and today's morning report said bad weather. Also Trimble in C2 last night. Some climbers expected to be in BC today coming down from higher camps through Icefall today. MB Pandey, MFA - 15 Sept 76 Everest LO says: snow last 4 days slowed progress; all members well. PM Singh, MFA C3, 23,000 ft today 11:00 am Dee Crouch Gerry Roach Frank Morgan Dan Emmett Jon Wright Namaz Dorje Pemba Tenzing PM Singh, MFA - 8 Sept 76 Everest C2 21,000 ft 11:00 am 8 Sept Frank Morgan Gary Roach Dee Crouch Dan Emmett Jon Wright PM Singh, MFA - 3 Sept 76 C1 19,400 ft 2 Sept PM Singh, MFA - 29 Aug 76 Jonathan Wright 9:45 am while coming back from Icefall to BC fell down about 50 ft but no injury; rescued by Sherpas and now in BC. Trying establish C1 yesterday. MB Pandey, MFA - 29 Aug 76 LO (sent 27th): Tomorrow 4 am 4 members and 4 Sherpas planning to go towards Icefall. 28th - today 4 and 4 went for climbing. Expedition: External Icefall 29th weather clear and cold until early afternoon, light snow at night. Leader ankle improved, walked from Lobuche to BC. 1 member toothache. LO: 29th Aug again going into icefall. Rileys, KTM - 26 & 27 Aug 76 Met Trimble at Namche 18th. Had been carried for 2 days to Namche - cheerful despite still swollen ankle which had twisted on slippery trail. Pandey, MFA - 20 Aug 76 American Everest Expedition arrive Namche 15 Aug, leave 19 Aug, arrive BC 26 Aug according message from LO sent after Namche arrival. ABEE (press conference) - 30 July 76 Joe Reinhard, ABC mgr; close BC to all interests and purposes Numbers of team 5 members who climbed together including Trisul last year Arlene Blum Trimble and other 2 lawyers Bruyntjes Leave KTM Tuesday 3 Aug, arrive BC 3 weeks later. Route established and ready for summit attempts last week Sept or early Oct depending snow conditions. Have food for 70 days from BC. Enough oxygen and HA rations to put entire team on summit and hope to do so and several Sherpas and CBS. Statistically better off in spring, but no choice. "Magic of worlds highest mountain took over" when heard Everest available; had planned 8000m peak. Planned low budget and semi alpine-style - so South Col route 2 medical studies: 1) psychological studies 2) psychological studies 23 HA Sherpas Trimble climbed US, New Guinea, Garwhal Himal, etc First time for any in Nepal - all climbed over 20,000 ft. All BBC have climbing experience - may supplement climbers effort success "depends on weather and acclimatization." Given those factors, I am very optimistic, "strong team."
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445126
Year 1976
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

20 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Arlene Diane Blum F 1945 USA Climber Menlo Park, California Chemistry professor Details Other expeditions
Hans Bruyntjes M 1947 Netherlands Climber Utrecht, Netherlands Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Chris Howard Chandler M 1948 USA Climber Vashon, Washington Physician Details Other expeditions
Robert (Bob) Cormack M - USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Pilot Details Other expeditions
Dee Bennett Crouch M 1942 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Physician Details Other expeditions
Daniel A. (Dan) Emmett M 1940 USA Climber Santa Monica, California Attorney & realtor Details Other expeditions
Frank Morgan M 1938 USA Climber Jakarta, Indonesia Attorney Details Other expeditions
Johan (Joe) Reinhard M 1943 USA ABC Manager Kathmandu & New Lenox, Illinois Anthropologist Details Other expeditions
Richard L. (Rick) Ridgeway M 1949 USA Climber Malibu, California Freelance writer Details Other expeditions
Barbara Roach F 1944 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Modern-dance teacher Details Other expeditions
Gerard A. (Gerry) Roach M 1943 USA Climber Boulder, colorado Computer programmer & photographer Details Other expeditions
Phillip R. Trimble M 1937 USA Leader Washington, DC Attorney Details Other expeditions
Constance Hoover F - USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming & Los Angeles, California Production assistant on this TV project Details Other expeditions
Mike Hoover M 1943 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming & Los Angeles, California Television film producer-director Details Other expeditions
Peter Pilafian M 1943 USA Climber Detroit, Michigan Soundman Details Other expeditions
Peter Albert Smokler M 1947 USA Climber Royal Oak, Michigan Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Pritchard Hunter (Peter) White M 1935 USA Climber Santa Monica, California Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Jonathan Wright M 1952 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Jurate Kristina Kazickas F 1943 USA Press Correspondent New York, New York Journalist Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER76301 AAJ Trimble, Phillip R. American Bicentennial Everest Expedition - 51:30-35 (1977) -
EVER76301 - Ridgeway, Rick The Boldest Dream Harcourt Brace Javanovich, New York - R215
EVER76301 MM - - - 52:14 (Nov 1976) -
EVER76301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197703000/The-American-Bicentennial-Everest-Expedition - - -