Everest | 1976 S Col-SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1976 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Tony Streather. Summit reached on 16th May 1976. 35 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2195
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER76101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1976
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Tony Streather
Sponsor Joint British Army & Royal Nepalese Army Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 21st?
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1976-03-24
Summit Date 1976-05-16
Summit Time 1515
Summit Days 53
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 34
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 25
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Pokalde (POKA-761-01), Island Peak, Lobuche East and Chhukung
Campsites BC(24/03,5425m),C1(03/04,5950m),C2(09/04,6650m),C3(21/04,6950m),C4(30/04,7620m),C5(12/05,8000m),C6(14/05,8380m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes Doug Scott - 14 Oct 78 Scott himself has same doubt about summit success of British Army: Compare "Soldiers on Everest" photo captioned Brummie Stokes approaching Hillary Step and photo in Quest (March/April 1977) article on American Bicentennial Expedition photo by Chandler captioned from South Summit. British pre-monsoon photo shows much less snow than in autumn. Streather (press conference) - 25 May 76 Hoped get to mountain in March which did; surprised to find mountain black (clear of snow). Got through Icefall 4-5 days. Strong wind became apparent as got up higher. Plans was to get camps up to Col in April so when weather settled in 1st week May could get to summit between 10th and 20th May. Got camps fairly far up and then Icefall gave great trouble and for 5 days route cut. From then on great trouble with Icefall and used all 40 sections of our ladders and 33 of others left by Bonington, Italians and Japanese ladies and 3 bridges of logs. Weather then became problem; wind dropped and by 14 May high camps established with C6 at 27,500 ft (with 2 men) and 4 men at C5 in Col and 4 in C4, thus chance of 10 to top, but very bad blizzard 14/15 May and Streather much concerned about survival at C6 and C5. Had to have proceedings on 15th but 16th weather quite reasonable. By then same oxygen supplies used and men had been at high altitude. 16th to summit; reached foot South Summit in little over 1 hour, which very fast, but then weather started deteriorating and snow slowed them. They set themselves deadline of 3 pm, when were at Hillary Step and got to top 3:15 or 3:30 stayed only few minutes. Saw no sign of Mick. During descent weather bad and progress slow. 16th Scott and Gunson moved up to C6 to give help or make 2nd attempt. At nightfall reported non-arrival and no one knew where summiters were. 17th Scott and Gunson went upwards and by 10 am had met summiters coming down slowly and exhausted and frostbitten and Stokes snowblinded. Scott and Gunson escorted them down to South Col by 6 pm. 2 Sherpas and 2 climbers went up from C5 to help Lane who was able to come right down C2 on 18th but Stokes more slowly and reached only C4 8 pm. 19th Stokes to C2 will lose bits of little toes. Wanted Nepal army as well as British army on top but Bagrot sick throughout and he main hope of RNA as summiter. Other 2 RNA didn't have enough experience. 10 British reached South Col supported by 17 other British and other 2 RNA (who reached C4). If had 10 days fine weather after 14th, possible 1 RNA and 1 Gurkha and 2 Sherpas could have gotten to top. No view at all from top. Lane - 21 May 76 [Lane walking awkwardly with stick and wearing red felt over boots]; will lose litte toes and fingers. Bringing Brian down to BC today; halfway down Icefall clearly when have left BC today. Stokes got sunblindness (last his glasses at biv) and frostbite maybe little more severe than Lane but not much, but more exhausted. Dr with him two days; sight maybe Ok today or tomorrow. Lane now to hospital but may be not to stay, but last year last little also - Brian numbs. 16th weather clouded in about 10:30 and stayed that way till 4-4:30. Got to 3/4 hour from C6 on good day - 28,000 ft. Didn't see Chinese thing on top. No trace of Mick Burke; day after tomorrow all at BC. Keelam at BC - 15 May 76 Unannounced blizzard, worst to date, struck Mount Everest overnight 14/15 May. All survived including summit pair at C6, but there can be no question of summit attempt today. Deep new snow is causing many difficulties. Expedition will remain poised for summit bid 16 May in hope weather improves. If not withdrawal will become necessary as those at high level are deteriorating rapidly. It may be possible to mount subsequent assault pre-monsoon. PM Singh - 15 May 76 C6, 14 May by Brummie Stokes and Bronco Lane. Today's weather bad they wait in C5 today for so summit attempt tomorrow. BC to Butler - 8 May 76 Winds have delayed establishment of C5 - Icefall still giving trouble. From Peacock BC via Butler - 5 May 76 Armstrong, Day, S Johnson and Neame reached South Col today; stocking of camps starts tomorrow am and occupation expected tomorrow night. Icefall in very bad condition. No route between C1 and ABC because top part of Icefall breaking up. BC to KTM from Butler - 2 May 76 C4 first occupants: Hardie Chris Johnson Scott Gunson BC to KTM from MFA - 1 May 76 C4 25,000 ft established; weather exceptionally fine. Peacock to Butler - 29 April 76 C4 - 25,000 ft placed 29th occupying it 20 1/2 way up face. Weather extremely last day or so. Summit bid 2nd week May. Streather -> Bowring, BC - 16 April 76 Thompson buried 09:00 hrs top of Icefall. Wasn't wearing his glasses (found in his tent) and just couldn't see where he was going (fatigue and altitude caused him not wear glasses). 19 April 76 Tim King to KTM 22 April suspected pneumonia. No progress because 5 members sick, very bad weather especially very high winds. PM Singh, MFA - 12 April 76 Captain Thompson killed at 17:00 hrs 10 April; fell in crevasse near C2. Body recovered and now at C2 (established 9 April at 21,800 ft). Streather and Armstrong remaining at C2 and descending to BC 12 April. Thens Athens at C2 and staying there. Mike Butler - 12 April 76 Thompson died at 17:00 hrs Sat 10th; C1 said he fell into crevasse near C2. Streather and Armstrong remaining at C2, body recovered and is at C2. C2 established 7th April. 6 April 76 Doug Keelan arrive KTM Today with hernia; goes to BMH Dharan on 8 April for operation and thence Khunde for recuperation/reacclimatization hoping to rejoin expedition and go high. Streather (press conference) - 27 Feb 76 Lt Col Tony Streather reached very near Kangchenjunga summit, Nepal's 2nd highest mountain; now back for highest. Nuptse was preparatory expedition. Prince Charles and Prince Himalayas = royal patrons and Chief of Defense Staff Sir Michael Carver and General Singha Bahadur Basnet hope to put RNA Gurkha and British atop - could get possible 8 am summit if weather good - but if bad luck with weather and oxygen problem may have be satisfied with 2 but determined to get someone up. 34 climbers including 3 RNA and 3 Nepal Gurkhas. Advance party of 9 leave today to Dhologhat; next leave March 1 and again 2nd March with 3 or 4 later on. All assemble at Pheriche acclimatization camp. If snow cleared off Icefall, in April go through Icefall. Hillary-Tenzing route. South Col by end April or very early May and be ready for summit when good weather. 6 camps above BC with C6 will up SE Ridge at about 27,400 ft or as near 28,000 ft as possible. Why Everest? more and more experience by AMA and now ready for the top one. Do not plan to go to summit without oxygen. Pat Gunson wants to try without oxygen but may not be allowed to do so and in any way case he would be helped by those with oxygen. 1 sirdar and 10 high Sherpas 15 Icefall porters Sonam Girme, sirdar Nuptse 1975 "We will use logistic skill" to hence right amount of supplies and people for success; did some computer work too. Just over $50,000 in cash and ratios and RAF transport 19,000 kg and equipment and food Still just as big a challenge to mountaineer whether others have done it before or not. Hopes BC on his 50th birthday 24th March (made Kangchenjunga BC 24th March). Will fly out from Lukla. Optimistic about success if Icefall safe and good weather and good luck. Only 3 climbing members have not been to Himalayas; before this Streather's 7th time, probably most experienced team ever to come to Himalayas. John Pencock - 27 Feb 76 All meet Pheriche leave 27 Feb - 8 Brits and 1 Gurkha leave 1 Mar - 15 (9 Brits and 2 RNA + 4 Gurkhas) 2 Mar - 9 Brits incl Times, Streather and Fleming, and 3 Gurkhas and Sirdar Sonam Girme and 1 RNA All in Pheriche by 18th March and BC by end March Through Icefall about 7th or 8th Adv BC 10th & 14th South Col by end April - 1st week May One camp above Col Plan 3 parties of 2 each on top About 8 British who could go to top, others strictly British Sherpas. 10 HA Sherpas 15 Icefall Sherpas 1 sirdar 3 RNA 3 Gurkhas 1 RAF 2 Marines 25 British AMA --- 34 total Mike Kefford - 10 Feb 76 Streather on 27th and 8 Peacock Leave KTM 1 & 2 March 23rd + 14 - 9 leave KTM 27th 2 arrive 2 + 9 March - fly to Lukla Pheriche acclimatization camp BC occupied about 1 April 9 Club expedition, not national expedition Sirdar = Sonam Girme (Nuptse)
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444981
Year 1976
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

35 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Crispin Agnew M 1944 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland First Batalion, Royal Highland Fusiliers Details Other expeditions
Geordie P. Armstrong M 1939 UK Climber Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England Flight officer, Royal Air Force Details Other expeditions
Bishnu Bahadur Basnet M - Nepal Climber Balaju, Kathmandu NC in Royal Nepal Army Details Other expeditions
Meryon G. Bridges M 1944 UK Climber Cork, Ireland Royal Engineers (Captain) Details Other expeditions
M. W. Henry Day M 1942 UK Climber Knutsford, Cheshire, England Major in Royal Engineers Details Other expeditions
Ronald Henry (Ronnie) Faux M 1935 UK Climber Burntisland, Fife, Scotland Correspondent of The Times (London) Details Other expeditions
Jonathan W. A. (Jon) Fleming M 1936 UK Climber Broadford, Skye, Scotland Major in The Parachute Regiment Details Other expeditions
Michael Roy Francis M 1948 UK Climber Oswestry, Shropshire, England Queen's Dragoon Guards, Royal Armoured Corps (Sgt) Details Other expeditions
Nigel Frank Gifford M 1946 UK Climber Taunton, Somerset, England Army Catering Corps (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Patrick W. Gunson M 1939 UK Climber Ulverston, Cumbria, England Royal Electrical & Mechanical Engineers (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Nanda Raj Gurung M - Nepal Climber Mukli Maidal, Solukhumbu 7th Gurkhas, British Army (Corporal) Details Other expeditions
Ivar J. Hellberg M 1942 UK Climber Reigates Heath, Surrey, England Royal Corps of Transport (Major) Details Other expeditions
Philip James Horniblow M 1928 UK Climber Rund, Muscat, Oman Royal Army Medical Corps (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Richard H. (Dick) Hardie M 1933 UK Exp Doctor Ellon, Grampian, Scotland Royal Army Medical Corps (Lt. Colonel) Details Other expeditions
Christopher (Chris) Johnson M 1946 UK Climber Oakham, Leicester, England Paratroops (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Steve Johnson M 1949 UK Climber Hereford, England Paratroops (Royal Engineers) Details Other expeditions
Krishna Bahadur Karki M - Nepal Climber Charikot, Dolakha Royal Nepal Army (Subedar) Details Other expeditions
G. Douglas B. Keelan M 1942 UK Climber Tharverton, Devon, England Royal Marines (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Michael H. (Mike) Kefford M 1946 UK Climber High Wycombe, Buckingham, England & Dharan, Nepal 7th Gurkhas, British Army (Captain) Details Other expeditions
M. Timothy (Tim) King M 1945 UK Climber Childekeford, Dorset, England Royal Army Ordinance Corps (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Michael Patrick (Bronco) Lane M 1945 UK Climber Manchester, England Royal Artillery (Corporal) Details Other expeditions
Brian Martindale M 1926 UK Climber York, N Yorkshire, England Royal Pioneer Crops (Captain) Details Other expeditions
A. J. (John) Muston M 1934 UK Climber Harrow, London, England Royal Army Ordinance Corps (Major) Details Other expeditions
Philip Neame M 1946 UK Climber Faversham, Kent, England Paratroops (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Peter B. Page M 1944 UK Climber Plymouth, Devon, England Royal Engineers (Captain) Details Other expeditions
John D. C. Peacock M 1931 UK Climber Cheltenham, Gloucester, England Royal Electrical & Mechanical Engineers (Lt. Colonel) Details Other expeditions
Basant Kumar Rai M - Nepal Climber Okhaldhunga 7th Gurkhas, British Army (Lance Cpl) Details Other expeditions
Bhagirath Narsingh Rana M 1943 Nepal Climber Kathmandu Royal Nepal Army (Major) Details Other expeditions
John H. Scott M 1948 UK Climber York, N Yorkshire, England Paratroops (Lieutenant) Details Other expeditions
Narbu Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Dharan, Dhankuta, Kosi Zone 7th Gurkhas, British Army (Corporal) Details Other expeditions
John Henry (Brummie) Stokes M 1945 UK Climber Birmingham, Enlgand Royal Green Jackets (Sergeant) Details Other expeditions
Harry Reginald Anthony (Tony) Streather M 1926 UK Leader Warminster, Wiltshire, England Gloucestershire Regiment (Lt. Colonel) Details Other expeditions
Terry Thompson M 1937 UK Climber Exmouth, Devon, England Royal Marines (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Philip West M 1948 UK Climber Dover/Orpington, England Royal Artillery (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Sonam Girme Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER76101 AAJ Day, Major M. W. Henry - - 51:239 (1977) -
EVER76101 HJ Day, Major M. W. H. Everest, 1976 - 35:135-141 (1976-78) -
EVER76101 - Stokes, Brummie Soldiers and Sherpas Michael Joseph, London - S766
EVER76101 - Fleming, Jon & Stokes, Brummie Soldiers on Everest HMSO, London - F101
EVER76101 MM - - - 51:11 (Sep 1976) -
EVER76101 - Stokes, Brummie Soldiers and Sherpas (2nd ed) By author, Hereford - -