Everest | 1975 S Col-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1975 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Eiko Hisano. Summit reached on 16th May 1975. 23 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2320
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER75101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1975
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Eiko Hisano
Sponsor Japanese Women's Everest Expedition 1975
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 17th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1975-03-16
Summit Date 1975-05-16
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 61
Total Days 63
Termination Date 1975-05-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 22
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 23
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/03,5300m),C1(03/04,6050m),C2(08/04,6400m),C3(14/04,6900m),C4(27/04,7600m),C5(14/05,7985m),C6(15/05,8500m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes Miss Arayama engaged to Yoshitada Numao who was killed on Dhaulagiri I 26 March. Dr. Wibin, Swiss Lhotse expedition - 9 Dec 78 Japanese women Everest: 2 women tried to go top 2 days after Tabei and Ang Tsering had. Ang Tsering went back from South Col to South Summit to rescue 2nd team in trouble in their attempt and brought them down safely (trouble? Wibin doesn't know) (Ang Tsering was sirdar for Swiss Lhotse 1978 and Wibin saw pictures at his home in Namche regarding above and AT's being given award by HMG). Tabei - 29 May 75 Will continue climb and adventure. Wants to go to No. 1 and No. 2 Poles (Everest is 3rd Pole) but no specific plans; only wants to go. Just not very tired. SW Face Everest route not interesting for me - want to go to K2 which interests her from Photos and which had planned to climb 7-8 years ago with friend who very strong climber but who died in Japanese Alps Mt. Taraigawa, Miss Lumi Saso, Tokyo; for many years they climbed together. To K2 with the women only. In Japan housekeeper very difficult to go out of house - my home different because my husband likes to climb and adventure - no plans to climb together in near future. Worked 10 years in Physical Soc of Japan but after daughters birth stopped working, but now daughter 3 years old and I can go out again; would like to go back to Physical Soc. All men limit our likes and I do not want to be limited. Enjoy piano and Koto (Japanese stringed instrument) which I teach after stopping work - my student very small, many people waiting - new house 12 students in piano (1/2 2 times a week). Everest high altitude and heavy snow and my spirit is steady on very dangerous knife ridge. High altitude very steep knife ridge more different than expected. Sure she would succeeed because my condition very good and my spirit said I must climb and Ang Tsering very strong, very good climb, very nice person very good mind. In KTM thought younger members go to top and Tabei stay at C2 as deputy leader's duty, but young members did not acclimatize well. After avalanche I think young members not so good condition and leader said I go so I decided to go (3 members went to Pheriche to rest). 43 kg now - lost on 1 or 2 Kg on mountain - good appetites all times even in C6 152 cm tall. "If Chinese climbed including 1 woman very good, but I don't believe; 9 people to top together impossible; 3 only as summit very small, etc; neither Tabei or Ang Tsering saw no sign of Chinese base camp or other camps or any activity despite fact all Tibet very clear from summit and Ang Tsering has very good eyesight. Departure from Nepal not fixed but probably 7 of team leave 3 or 4 June for Delhi and Taj Mahal, then Japan while others stay longer in KTM. Tabei & Hisano, press conf - 28 May 75 Saw no evidence of Chinese on Everest. Only 1 woman on top because suffered from avalanche in C2 and no time to carry food for more than 2 summiters 1 Japanese and 1 Sherpa Was women's expedition because planning in Japan by woman; 50% finished in Japan. Deputy leader not leader to top because no reason for leader to go to top. No problems between Japanese and Sherpas. Avalanche hit C2 4 May (13 injured). Tabei sleeping in same bag with Watanabe and suddenly heavy shock and couldn't move and didn't understand what happened. Took Miyohara in same tent to cut it open. Tabei could scarcely breathe and couldn't see: thought she would die; can't remember how long under avalanche (2-3 mins). Sirdar pulled her out of tent by her feet and saved her life. Stayed in C2; thought her condition would be better and could climb again. 1 week rest in camp (2 days sleeping) and then climbed again. If she went down would be impossible for her to reach summit; only shock, no injuries. Hisano: all 7 members in C2 suffered from shock and slept 2 days. Tabei: thought "very tired" when reached top, no need climb more; used oxygen from C4 all time except eating and radio. Hisano: as Tabei started from C6 to top, thought of weather and how she felt and route to summit (too steep) need good communication with partner, dangerous knife-edge, and for women too long route and too deep snow - each step very slow. Ang Tsering was going faster. They changed off leading to top but Ang Tsering reached summit first. Most difficult part of climb from South Summit to main summit because knife ridge. Hillary chimney full of snow and had to clear it of snow. Left C6 5:50 am S Summit 9:40 am Main summit 12:30 pm South Col C5 7:30 pm Said to Lhakpa Rinzing at South Col: "Thank you very much." When reached top talked by walkie-talkie to leader in C2; now we arrived at the top and time is 12:35 (watch 5 minutes fast). "Thanks to all members and all Sherpas;" leader's reply "very welcome." Mrs Tabei wants go to South Pole, not for climbing but just reach Pole; may be continue climbing, but no definite plans for future; would like go Hawaii for sea. Tabei left Thermos and Nepal flag and carried 24 stones from summit (drank tea on top). 70-80 empty oxyen bottles on South Col. Tabei and Ang Tsering left 2 bottles on S Summit. Hisano: may leave Nepal 3 June for Japan. Mrs Tabei - 28 May 75 At airport: Do next, I don't know - reach Tokyo in 1 week or 10 days. "Very tired" when reached summit where spent 15 minutes taking pictures. Ang Tsering on top first. M.S. Kohli - 22 May 75 After 1st ascent of an over 8000m peak and 1st ascent of Everest in 1953, this 3rd most important news in mountaineering. 4th would be Everest without oxygen. HM Queen of Nepal to Mrs. Hisano: I am indeed very happy to learn that in International Womens Year your all-women's expedition has for 1st time successfully scaled Mt. Sagarmatha highest peak of world. The skill and fortitude of the members of expedition during this challenging task has been most admirable and all congratulation to you as well as all members and especially Mrs Junko Tabei for reaching summit. The achievement will be an inspiration to women all over world. The cooperation rendered by the Nepalese guides especially Mr Ang Tshering who also reached summit along with Mrs Tabei deserves special appreciation. MP Khanal, MFA - 17 May 75 Everest summit 12:30 midday yesterday Tabei Sirdar Ang Tsering Started from C6 at 5:00 am MP Khanal, MFA - 16 May 75 C6 15 May, 8500m Earlier programme of summit attempt by same people still stands. MP Khanal, MFA - 16 May 75 C5 established 14 May 7985m by Tabei, Ang Tsering, Susumu Nakamura (camera) If weather favourable, will attempt 16 May. MP Khanal, MFA - 13 May 75 2 members, Tabei and Watanabe, and Ang Tsering sirdar. Plan make final attempt on 15 May if weather conditions are favourable. These 3 left C2 on 11 May and same day to 13 May were supposed to complete their supply of food and equipment to C5. MP Khanal, MFA Expedition continues Mrs Hisano left BC for C1 on 7 May Only 1 Sherpa much injured MP Khanal, MFA - 18 March 75 Everest Base Camp 16 March 5350m - 6 members and 215 Sherpas and 480 porters. Mrs Hisano now in Lobuche as per her letter to Khanao of 16th March; she in 2nd group which will be in BC on 18th; all fine. MP Khanal, MFA - 5 March 75 Leader went to Tokyo last week and returns in fortnight (private problem). Expedition at Thyangboche acclimatization camp. Camp tonight at Lamosangu. Nasu and Naganuma in Lukla, Hirashima and Fujiwara stay in KTM. About 10 flights total required - 1st was on 7th Feb 23 Sherpas for climb including sirdar Ang Tsering 7 Shepras for press LO is Pasang Tenzing 2 cooks, 4 kitchen boy and 10 local porters carrying above BC Hisano - 9 Feb 75 Summit? "yes of course I hope so" - 2 members for top "Very calm" now reach Lukla 20 or 21 Feb; 400 and porters from Lukla; 50 from Lamosangu Oxygen bottles 6 or 7 Kg; not so heavy; total 160 with expedition BC 18 Monday; climbing 20 and C2 When expedition success; will feel "very delightful" because we tried for long time to climb Everest so we'll be happy. Mrs Hisano - 30 Jan 75 Chances for success "maybe, if all members physical condition and weather good." 13 members arrive today Leave Feb 9 -10 days - 2 weeks aft Shyangboche for acclimatization. BC established 17 March and climbing 2-3 days afterwards. Icefall is very difficult; "most different place on Everest." Recently every team have accident in Icefall; if we can cross safely, 50% chance for success. 2 members attempt summit maybe with Sherpa in hope summit 10-15 May, using oxygen. South Face very difficult, so chose South Col. Ed Hillary - 30 Jan 75 Regarding women's Everest expedition: "Although best women climbers not yet in class with best men climbers, I see no reason why women can't climb Everest as long as their expedition fulfills all necessary qualifications: Members should be fit, good organization, good equipment. Strong bunch of Sherpas, good relations with members and some luck with weather that's all it takes to climb Everest. Tabei - 27 Jan 75 2 members here now - 13 more including Dr and leader arrive 30 Jan RNAC ex-BKK - 29 2 reporters 30 1 reporters Total including cameraman 15 members including Dr and leader Start 9 Feb trek from Lamosangu; baggage to Lukla with 2 members stay 2 weeks Shyangboche and climb 5000-6000m peaks; "warming up." Leave Shyangboche about 12 March and make BC 17 March Route via South Col Summit 50-10 May with 1 team of 2 or 3 members Using oxygen C4 and above in climbing and sleeping; C3 sleeping 6 camps above BC; highest about 8500m = C6 Leader to C2 only (went to 6900m on Annapurna III) Annapurna III - 3 including leader Everest BC Annapurna trek McKinley Everest, Premonsoon 1975 by Japanese Women By Eiko Hisano & Junko Tabei in JJAC 1975 Acclimatization Only two had experienced 7-thousander and six had climbed 5-thousander out of 15 members. We took 40 days for caravan and walked 80 km. Also practised acclimatization during the march. We stayed at Thyangboche (3800m) in the earliest two weeks in March and exercised hikings up to 4500m three times. Although all members safely reached BC at 5350m, three became sick and were obliged to descend 1000m lower place, for a week. Two weeks were spent for settling C1 above icefall. Fourteen times in turn climbed up and down between 5350m and 6000m. Although the lifting was very very useful for acclimatization, we were very lucky that no serious accident happened in the Icefall. C2 and C3 were so smoothly settled that some members could not acclimatize the height sufficiently. Members who adjusted to the height quickly were likely to do overwork and it seemed to be accelerating their acclimatization. Lhotse Face, between C3 and C4 was very hard for us. Originally, we had planned to use 60 oxygen cylinders for the route making. Actually, however, we merely consumed oxygen 0.5 liter per minute during sleeps at C3 on account of the delay of gear lifting. Both members and Sherpas worked there without oxygen. Only four members could stay at C4. And route between C4 and South Col was developed by Sherpas. Members reached under Yellow Band at our highest. It was because high winds on April 30 prevented us to change members at C5 and on the next day, Sherpas at C4 developed the route to South Col. We were obliged to spend for a week to clear the damages of snow avalanche at C2. Therefore, only attack team reached South Col. We are now at least satisfied that all the members except for doctor experienced the height of C3 (6900m). We could have sent four teams to C4. But we could not so. We had little time and the mountain was too huge to do so. Snow Avalanche We were assaulted by a snow avalanche at C2, at 0:30 on May 4. Seven members and 22 Sherpas, and three reporters slept there. The scale of the avalanche was great enough to run over crevasses and collapsed five tents on the plateau and reached West ridge side. If our tent site had been located a dozen meters lower at usual tent site, all the 32 members and C2 must have been buried under the snow. When settling C2 we firmly believed that the place was safe enough from avalanches. Since we found dusty ruins of the Spanish Party the year before, we moved up the site to the higher plateau. Two member's, two reporter's and a Sherpa's tents out of nine at C2 were buried under ice blocks. Two and five woman members respectively slept in two tents. Suddenly, terrific sounds were heard and the next moment, huge blocks carried our tents down for a dozen meters. Only Watanabe who at once fled from her tent was caught in ice blocks. Four other members were lying upon one another under the snow in tent. Other two in another tent were trying to cut open inner sheet by their teeth under the snow. Sirdar Ang Tsering, on the other hand, could not sleep in his tent. At the moment heard unusually terrific sounds in the darkness, he woke up fellow Sherpas and tried to protect frames and poles. Huge ice blocks went by their heads. When the fall down stopped, they went out from their tents and soon heard cries of Watanabe not so far. Sherpas immediately out open our tents and rescued all that being buried. Some of us might have been crushed to death it their rescue had delayed. At 6500m of altitudes was we feel choky even staying quietly. I saw various colors in my eyes and almost abandoned my life. The avalanche was a very incident for us. But I was reassured and felt it sufficient when I was told all were safe. In the next morning, I decided to my to continue the climbing. Ascent Left C6 at South Peak on the Summit, at C6 and returned to C5 were the record of Tabei and Ang Tshering on May 16. We woke up at 3:50 at C6 and lit gas heater. I had two cups of coffee for breakfast. Ang Tshering had 8 mm movie and a camera, a pack of biscuit and thermos. Tabei brought two cameras and transreceiver. Oxygen was adjusted to 3 litter. Ang Tsering led first. I followed him with 20m of main rope. Russels of knee depth snow began from the exit of tent. Snow became deeper on this ridge. I took turns of ressel on the way. Rocks appeared but still hard to walk on thin and soft rocks mixed with snow. The rocky section coninued for seven pitches of length. South Peak was reached at 9:40. Half buried cylinders were remained in the snow. We changed cylinders there. Ang Tsering left 150 and I left only 40 atm. Then communicated with leader Hisano at C2. Ate biscuit and tea still a little bit hot. Once we had to descend steep ridge. At a very thin part, we had to straddle with my neck over Tibetan side and feet over Nepalese side and the sharp knife-edged ridge was just in front of my breast. Steadily, we sidled very slowly. Hillary's Chimney stood on the bottom of the thin ridge. During the climb there, when I saw our C2 far below my foot, I became almost mad with the keenest tension. Again steep ridges covered with hard snow continued above the Chimney. Every step became hard. I happened to think over 37 climbers who once climbed there. Matsuura, Uemura, Hirabayashi, Ishiguro and Kato, these five Japanese also climbed there. Climb and rest, I moved my legs. I shall reach the summit soon if I continue the climb. When I stepped into a soft snow, I saw mountains on Tibetan side. Suddenly Ang Tshering cried, "Mrs Tabei, we are on the summit." I need not climb furthermore. At last I have come to the top. It was 12:30. Six and a half hours have passed since we started from C6. Clouds were drifting over Nepalese mountains but clear sky above Tibetan side. I saw big panoramas of Jannu, Makalu, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Thamserku, Tawache, Gaurishankar, Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang under my eyes. Deputy Leader did, due to extreme lack of oxygen and exhaustion, fall down slopes from 8500m to 8300m rolling over and over and had serious head injuries. Jimmy Roberts-Elizabeth Hawley The member of last autumn's Swiss Lhotse expedition who told me about his expedition, Dr. Wabin, said their sirdar was Ang Tsering of Namche Bazar, who was an Everest summiter with the Japanese ladies in the spring of 1975. He was a H-A porter on the Italian Everest expedition. Ang Tsering told Dr. Wabin, and showed him pictures in his Namche home to support his tale, that in 1975 he and Mrs. Tabei went to the summit together, he then descended only as far as the South Col, and two days later had to go back up to the South Summit to rescue a second summit-assault team who had gotten into trouble at the South Summit. (Nature of the trouble not known to Dr. Wabin.) Ang Tsering managed to bring the two ladies in distress down the mountain safely. Tremendous accomplishment, Dr. Wabin says. When the ladies returned to KTM from Everest in 1975, the leader and Mrs. Tabei held a press conference. They were asked, according to my notes, whether there had been another summit attempt besides the successful one of Mrs. Tabei and Ang Tsering, and the answer was no, that an avalanche which had hit Camp 2 had caused such havoc to supplies and personnel (several Japanese ladies were injured, actually including Mrs. Tabei) that they could mount only one summit bid with the supplies they were able to get into the high camps after the avlanche. There was absolutely no mention of two ladies in distress being rescued from the jaws of death by heroic Ang Tsering.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent by a woman
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444614
Year 1975
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

23 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eiko Hisano F 1933 Japan Leader Nara-shi, Nara, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Junko Tabei F 1939 Japan Deputy Leader Kawagoe, Saitama, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Michiko Manita F 1941 Japan Climber Kawagoe, Saitama, Japan Science teacher in Takashina Junior High School, Kawagoe city Details Other expeditions
Fumie Nasu F 1941 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Unemployed; recently was secretary in management consultants Details Other expeditions
Yuriko Watanabe F 1943 Japan Climber Kawagoe, Saitama, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Masako Naganuma F 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Teacher in Kamisoshigaya Nursery School, Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Teruyo Hirashima F 1948 Japan Climber Omiya, Saitama, Japan Clerk in home-building company Details Other expeditions
Reiko Shinoura F 1946 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Teacher in Hino-Dairoku Elementary School, Hino city Details Other expeditions
Fumiko Arayama F 1950 Japan Climber Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan Computer programmer at T.K.C. Tochigi Center Details Other expeditions
Yoko Mihara F 1941 Japan Climber Morioka, Iwate, Japan Clerk in Morioka Tobacco Experiment Station of Japanese Monopoly Details Other expeditions
Yukiko Naka F 1947 Japan Climber Unazuki, Toyama, Japan Clerk of Tyrol Sports Goods Shops Details Other expeditions
Yumi Tanaya F 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Clerk of Ishii Sports Co. Details Other expeditions
Setsuko Kitamura F 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff writer of Yomiuri newspaper Details Other expeditions
Sumiko Fujiwara F 1948 Japan Climber Tokai, Aichi, Japan Clerk of waterworks department of municipal office in Nagoya Details Other expeditions
Masako Sakaguchi F 1945 Japan Exp Doctor Osaka, Japan Surgeon, Osaka Medical College hospital Details Other expeditions
Yoshinobu Emoto M 1940 Japan Staff Writer - - Details Other expeditions
Seisei Ajisaka M 1933 Japan Staff Photographer Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Toshitaka Kitagawa M 1940 Japan Staff Photographer Matsudo, Chiba, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Kanji Iwashita M 1935 Japan Programme Director Tokyo, Japan Nippon Television Network Corporation Details Other expeditions
Kenichi Shimoda M 1931 Japan Cameraman Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Akamatsu Takeyoshi M 1936 Japan Cameraman Tashio, Saitama, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Susumu Nakamura M 1946 Japan Cameraman Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER75101 AAJ - - - 50:515 (1976) -
EVER75101 JAC Hisano, Eiko & Tabei, Junko Everest, Pre-Monsoon 1975 by Japanese Women - 70:4-10 (1975) -
EVER75101 MM - - - 44:9-10 (Jul 1975) -
EVER75101 IWA - - - 48:149-148 (1976) -
EVER75101 IWA - - - 48:56-57 (1976) -
EVER75101 - Women's Climbing Club Report of the Women's 1975 Everest The Club, Tokyo - jS112
EVER75101 - Yomiuri Newspaper Everest: The Glory of Women Yomiuri, Tokyo - jY84
EVER75101 JAC Hisano, Eiko & Tabei, Junko Everest, Pre-Monsoon 1975 by Japanese Women - 70:97-109 (1975) -
EVER75101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197651502/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-First-Ascent-by-a-Woman - - -