Everest | 1974 Lho La-W Ridge

A France expedition to Everest in 1974 via Lho La-W Ridge, led by Gerard Devouassoux. Summit reached on 9th September 1974. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2310
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER74301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1974
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Lho La-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Gerard Devouassoux
Sponsor First French Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1974-08-16
Summit Date 1974-09-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1974-09-21
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6900m due to fatal avalanches at C1 and C2
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 20
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 5
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/08,5400m),C1(25/08,5800m),C2(03/09,6400m),C3(09/09,6900m),xxx(09/09,6900m)
Route Notes Tarraiz now 20 years older, psychological shock. Payot - 26 Sept 74 All 7 of KTM members at press conference: Payot as spokesman. Reasons psychologically not ready to talk to press on arrival in KTM. Had not the heart; still too much emotionally involved in terrible experience "on mountain." State of mind and state of heart, not discourtesy. Arrive BC 16 Aug at 5400m at usual BC site. C1 - 25 Aug at 5800m half way between Lho La and BC, 200m below Lho La. C2 - 3 Sept 6400m on ridge of West Shoulder; did not go to Lho La but went straight up on right. C3 - 9 Sept 6900m on ridge of West Shoulder, but 300m below top of shoulder established of camps; not decision of one man but altogether decided approx altitude for each camp; not only French but also sirdar and Sherpas participated in choice of campsites. 9th Sept - 10 (9 Sherpas and Lasserre) in C1 8 (6 Sherpas, Tarraiz and Devouassoux) in C2 3 (1 Sherpa, Ancey and Balmat) in C3 All others in BC. No other warning or avalanches before 9 Sept on west slopes. Monsoon exceptionally violent and heavy. Tail of monsoon normally ebbs in early Sept, still extremely strong: monsoon started weak and ended strong. French no earlier than others. Everest normally exposed to very strong winds from, so between end of monsoon. and 15 Oct when winds begin, aimed to reach summit. No recollections of avalanche activity of 1974 vis a vis 1972. No incident of any kind during day of 9th Sept. 9th Sept 19:30 hours Payot and 5 members heard in BC terrific noise of blast of avalanche. Noise of movement of air displaced by mass of snow. Dr Lasserre at C1 by walkie-talkie gave news that break of avalanche had passed about 600m from C1, but one of tents at C1 was blown away with 1 Sherpa Nima Wangchu inside. 18:00 hours radio contact with all camps normally. No other news from other camps that night. Tarraiz (who was at C2) was inside tent in front of Devouassoux; and went to sleep. 1-1/2m of corridor between 2 parts where Devouassoux in one and Tarriaz in other part. Blast of avalanche provoked movement of snow which fell on tent and flattened all of it. Fell from slope of 30m. Started digging each other out, weakened by weight of snow on top of them. 2 Sherpas and we made mutual rescue "but Devouassoux under big mountain of snow, it was too much snow; we have no shovel to dig, we have nothing." It was 3 hours searching. Tairraz and 1 Sherpa helped each other out and then found other Sherpa still alive and managed to help him too (perhaps Devouassoux killed quickly by weight of snow). Tent may have split open and Devouassoux badly thrown far down; originally C2's 2 tents close together. At 10:20 exhausted, could not see other tent. 10th Sept could not see other tent, stormy weather, could see nothing. During night able recover pieces of canvas and managed to spend night in this improvised shelter. No frostbite, no severe cold. Payot Sherpas who in other Everest expeditions said never seen avalanche of that size. Not able find bodies except that of Nawang Lotuk who was in C2 whose body swept away by avalanche and or blast and found below C1. Left base 21 Sept. No other avalanche or incident after 9th Sept. When Lasserre radioed said big avalanche passing 200m from C1 and 150m from C2. Wind of blast sounded like rolling thunder; 30 secs durations says Lasserre. I am convinced that all of us wish that if they take part in any other expedition to Everest they would "follow same route." This route better than Icefall route, safer. Much better in spring "100% sure" that if not this accident would have reached summit between 10 and 15 Oct. Feeling their hearts irrepairable loss of their companion and leader and disappointed not reached summit. Cancelled attempt because could not visualize to go on after what had happened. Such shattering experience, would also have been more difficult. Departure not known. Payot - 21 Sept 74 Return foreseen on 27 Sept; rest probably will walk. Bernadette Vasseux - 20 Sept 74 Payot: we reach Namche 23rd evening. Shanker 27 Sept: this received by French embassy yesterday evening, embassy arranging Lukla charters for 27th. MP Khanal - 15 Sept 74 9 Sept 7:10 pm on avalanche from north side of C3 hit C1 and C2 and as result leader and 5 Sherpas killed and Deputy Leader decided to suspend expedition. Persons at C3 (Ancey, Balmat and Ang Temba) requested to come to BC. Those at BC are searching for victims bodies. Those killed in C2 Devouassoux Pemba Dorje (Namche) Nawang Lotuk (Thami) Lhakpa (Dolakha) Sanu Wangel (Taksindu) Killed in C1 Nima Wangchu (Thami) Bernadette Vasseux - 14 Sept 74 Payot message to French ambassador dated 12 Sept: Given up hope to find bodies of Devouassoux and 4 Sherpas who were in C2; still looking for body of Sherpa who was in C1. All who had been in C3 reached BC safely and all surviving members well. 9 Sept AFP KTM citing MFA. Avalanche struck with such lightning speed. Avalanche started 7000m north of C3 occupied by Balmat, Ancey and Ang Temba. Devouassoux was at C2. 5 Sherpas were at C1 5800m. Unsoeld - 13 Sept 74 "My recollection of that section of West Ridge from Lho Lha to West shoulder is extremely steep and avalanche swept stretch of rock and ice. I would judge it to be as dangerous a section of mountain as any climb acquainted with; the avalanches being a constant danger in the best of this we in 1963 watched from BC to see conditions for route through icefall and saw lot of avalanche action on West Shoulder and steered clear of it by going through center to still icefall by rock into West Shoulder; seems a bit foolhardy. I personally like idea of true West Ridge ascent for sheer purity of the route but it would appear that the route they chose would not maximize their chances of success." Would never himself attempt descent via West Ridge. MP Khanal - 13 Sept 74 BC near tradition site C1 halfway between BC and Lho La C2 on West Shoulder ridge so part C3 on top West Shoulder MFA told them not to go over onto north side but not forbidden Lho La near Khumbu Icefall - only requested not to go across Garden. French themselves said did not intend to go to Lho La but to follow above plan. Khanal said they had alternative option of Khumbu Icefall, but Devouassoux said that too dangerous. MP Khanal - 10 Sept 74 C3 6900m 8 Sept C2 6400m 4 Sept C1 ? Small accident on 31 Aug in which tent occupied by Fernard Audibert and Balmat in night 6:55 pm. While candle burning equipment and clothing burned, but no one injured (location of tent not given). Way from C1 and C2 difficult and had cut a way through icefall just below Lho La to West Shoulder. JOM Roberts - 31 July 74 Lho La reached only twice = by 1955 Lhotse one Austrian member alone and Indian Everest 1965, Kumar and LO. International 1971 JOMR thought of sending West Ridge team up Lho La to West Shoulder, but saw Lho La defended by at least 2 avalanches channels: lot of it just walking and lot it very dangerous. Americans traversed onto North Face from top of West Shoulder. West Ridge worse than SW Face for wind. Lho La route means C1 on Col C2 on top West Shoulder or halfway to shoulder (Americans C3 - W was top of shoulder) Payot - 8 July 74 Rest of expedition arrive next Monday. All are guides from Chamonix except Dr and photographer. D. Audibert and Ducrez start from Geneva 1 July with equipment by air to Delhi and road to KTM starting 3 days ago in 4 trucks, 13 tons. Hope to climb without oxygen for 1 or 2 members. Bring 2 systems (French and American) totalling 200 bottles. 2 Audiberts made and nephew Ancey divorced this year, daughter F. Audibert, married, 1 boy and 1 girl Lasserre - now 2 girls Mollier - 2 boys Tairraz - 2 girls Balmat - 1 child Where start on ridge depends on Icefall; upper part follow American route. But with total high camps. Will descend by ridge; will not be on any other route on Everest. C4 on West Shoulder 20 Sherpas including 2 sirdars (1 at BC and 1 higher above) Leave KTM 20 July depending on Customs; to Lamosangu and walk 2 weeks, so arrived BC mid-August unless monsoon still strong; if necessary can wait at Namche or else where if weather still bad. About 15 Oct on top; one camp, one week approx. Hope to put every body on top like Makalu 1954 and Pumori. Plan 7 big camps for this reason. Japanese last year from South Col and only 2 could reach top. Lasserre and Tairraz not professional climbers, Tairraz professional photographer. To the Editor Mountain Magazine by MJ Cheney On Sept 9th at 19:30 hours an avalanche swept over and destroyed C1 and C2, killing the expedition leader, Gerard Devauassoux and 5 Sherpas. The expedition was abandoned after the accident and will probably return to KTM on about 20 Sept. BC was established on 25 Aug C1 was established date not known at 5800m C2 was " on 4 Sept at 6400m C3 was " on 8 Sept at 6900m The expedition route to the West Ridge from BC was via a prominent shoulder leading up to the West Ridge above Lho La. Exact route is not known. C1 and C2 were on the flanks of the shoulder feature and C3 on the crest of the shoulder. Weather: Normal monsoon weather has prevailed since the expedition reached BC, and still prevails. There was a fine period over East and Central Nepal for 3 or 4 days before the accident, but for 6 days before that short fine spell; from Aug 29 to Sept 3rd, there was continuous rain and cloud right across Central and East Nepal. In Central Nepal there was also rain all day on Sept 10 and 11. This rainy period may well have effected East Nepal on 9th Sept. Since 12th Sept to date the weather has been fine with a few showers. But monsoon conditions still prevail. This was the weather across the middle hills of Nepal, but it would have effected the Everest region in much the same pattern. The temperature during the second rainy spell was appreciably lower than during the former rainy period, the rain would have fallen as snow over about 15,000 ft. The French ambassador is on record as that it was unfortunate that the monsoon was unusually late. This is not so, the monsoon is not late, it is normal and will not, predictably, finish until very end of Sept. Wills Unsoeld was in KTM when the accident was announced. Talking to Reuters correspondent, Willi Unsoeld remarked that his recollections of that section of the West Ridge from Lho La to the West Shoulder is of extremely steep and avalanche swept stretch of rock and ice and very dangerous indeed. It is known that the I.H.E. to Everest of 1971 also considered a route to the West Ridge via the shoulder feature, but it was immediately rejected when the very dangerous conditions from two prominent avalanche channels were realized. This accident has all the making making of another Everest controversy. It may be noted that, due to lack of serviceable aircraft and pilots, a French television team was still frantically trying to leave KTM for the Everest area 7 days after the accident.
Accidents 5 Sherpas killed in avalanche and 1 member Devouassoux killed in avalanche
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444364
Year 1974
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) lho la-w ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gerard Devouassoux M 1940 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Chamonix guide & deputy to the mayor of Chamonix Details Other expeditions
Georges Payot M 1937 France Deputy Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Chamonix guide Details Other expeditions
Claude Ancey M - France Climber - Chamonix guide Details Other expeditions
Daniel Audibert M 1948 France Climber - Chamonix guide Details Other expeditions
Fernard Audibert M - France Climber - Chamonix guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Paul Balmat M 1946 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Chamonix guide Details Other expeditions
Denis Ducroz M 1949 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Chamonix guide Details Other expeditions
Eric Lasserre M 1937 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Christian Mollier M - France Climber - Chamonix guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Tairraz M - France Climber - Professional photographer/specializes in mountain photography Details Other expeditions
Nima Wangchu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Lotuk Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Sanu Wangel Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sonam Gyaltzen Sherpa M 1943 Nepal Sirdar Bagam, Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER74301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 49:198 (1975) -
EVER74301 - Mollier, Christian Everest 74 Flammerion, Paris - M453
EVER74301 MM - - - 39:8 (Oct 1974) -
EVER74301 MM - - - 41:9 (Jan 1975) -
EVER74301 - Bourget, Jacques Gerard Devouassoux, Le Souffle de la Montagne Solar, France - D392
EVER74301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197519801/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-French-Tragedy - - -