Everest | 1973 S Col-SE Ridge
A Italy expedition to Everest in 1973 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Guido Monzino. Summit reached on 5th May 1973. 68 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2346 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER73101 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1973 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Italy |
| Leaders | Guido Monzino |
| Sponsor | Italian Everest Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 14th,15th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1973-03-21 |
| Summit Date | 1973-05-05 |
| Summit Time | 1239 |
| Summit Days | 45 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 65 |
| Summit Members | 5 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 88 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(21/03,5400m),C1(27/03,6150m),C2(31/03,6450m),C3(11/04,7000m),C4(29/04,7500m),C5(30/04,7985m),C6(04/05,8515m),Smt(05,07/05) |
| Route Notes | Hillary - 16 May 73 Not only quantity but much of it good quality heavy duty equipment, not light weight expedition type. Nobody else could afford to bring the weight to base camp and advance base light weight stretches and kerosene heaters and lights at advance base camp communications - complete any set - 3-way support helicopter with Colonel in charge. Camping and education consultant Seans Dir of hold Bks in Australia substanial supplies in cook tent spagetti bolognese coke bean peaches operated like military operation any personal any equipment any communications Ed Hillary - 11 May 73 What Monzino has shown: if you have a couple of platoons of Alpine troops and a couple of helicopters and equipment and funds, that the climbing of Everest by South Col routes is a reliable straightforward procedure. We shouldn't regard this as a mountain expedition; taking a group of service people and getting then to work together on a difficult and challenging objective; more of a together programme. As a mountaineer I think he would have been much better carrying it on European Alps, but he has been very competent. I hope in future that Everest will be left mountaineering parties composed of small groups enthusiast climbers. It's reached the height of ridiculous. 8 teams off 8 3-man assault teams (2 Italians) summit teams were to be flown down to Lukla for rest and recuperation and then flown back to BC. Helicopters key to plan Al Read - 8 May 73 28 April - 2 Chileans from base camp by helicopter enroute to Lukla; met at Pheriche. Al said: 11 members including 2 Chileans had gone to C4 and same of these had eye trouble and frostbite - so all went down to base camp except 2 Chileans who spent 3 days at C4 and were well acclimatized ready and willing to go on up to summit on 29th, but expedition refused to give them Sherpas and told them they could not go to summit, presumably because they not Italians. They were leaving expedition (not clear whether asked to leave or quit). They thought it would make Monzino look bad in Chile since he had gone there to recruit them. They would never climb for another Italian expedition because not in best alpine style: helicopters had stocked C2 with men, supplies fuel which they understand was contrary to HMG permission. Italian embassy told Read on 8 May 2 Chileans at Lukla or base camp, had not come to KTM. ND Shrestha - 7 May 73 2nd group today summits at 13:00 3 Italians, 1 Sherpa Capt. Fabrizio Innamorati Virginio Epis Claudio Benedetti Sonam Gyalzen If weather remains clear will try again up to 14th. ND Shrestha - 5 May 73 2 Italians on Everest succeeded 5 May, 12:39 hours Minuzzo Rinaldo Sirdar Lhakpa Tenzing (Sherpa) Shambu Tamang and returned to C4 which established yesterday 2 pm 28,000 ft. Next group will try day after tomorrow. Gallesi - 25 April 73 Weather bad for past 3 days, preventing radio communication between base camp and higher camps, so no informations, yet about C4. Lord Hunt - 16 April 73 2 Hunts, Wylie and Gurgary to Lukla 17th. Great disservice to other mountaineers in other countries to use techniques against Ministers of Nepal Govt; inevitability of progress: airlifting in context of mountain is in scope of things to come; used in Alaska and in Pamirs. I don't ethically like it, but respect Nepal govt's attitude on employment. One has feelings but uses of technique to overcome human problems advantages of doing it slowly from point of view of acclimatization; in Pamirs we went into much too quickly. A mountain expedition is all of a piece approach march, acclimatization shake down between Europeans and Sherpas; miss tremendously lot esthetically not walking in. Landucci - 19 April 73 eye trouble and one frostbite 24 Verbi - eye 03 Miniuzzo - feet frostbite 16 Tancan - eye In C2 and had to be rescued in afternoon 17:40 hours; weather very strong winds; chopper did not crash; tried to land before all lost; 200m before C2; skidding on ice and hit crevasse at low speed and helicopter damaged and impossible to bring down but rest can be brought. Cristallo not fractured but dislocation of left arm; in KTM but not in hospital. 3 injured stayed in C2 and cared for by Dr in camp. ND Shrestha - 18 April 73 Crashed at C2; went to rescue 3 persons suffering from diarrhea. Yesterday at 17:45 tried to land but because of wind crashed. Engineer injured Cristallo Mauro, right fracture. Padro Landuci and Peca Raro Pilots Luigi safe and sound. 3 sick and 1 injured carried to basecamp and other helicopter brought to KTM. Everest Lindsay Strong reports airdropping pay loads of 150 kg to C2. ND Shrestha - 8 April 73 "Permit strictly for rescue operation, if airdropping, it is violation of permit. Must explain what they are doing." PB Khetri - 5 April 73 Approach route had no facility and no reach in time: time lag. Dr. Curzan - 4 April 73 Saw Everest airdropping on 1 April in Western Cwm; was at Kalapattar, regular flights. Gallesi - 6 March 73 Heavy snowfall this morning at Thyangboche and Lukla; same of expedition have moved off towards base camp probably yesterday. Capt. Gallesi - 4 March 73 Snowing at Thyangboche at 5 pm today where expedition should leave tomorrow but difficult for yaks to move; depends on how deep this evening snowfall becomes; reached Thyangboche about 8 days ago, about 50 Italians at Thyangboche. Monzino - 11 Feb 73 Why South Col route? "because it is easier." Only 5 expeditions have reached summit by it. Don't know now how many men will try to reach summit or how many summit teams or where or how many camps. Cost and financial informations not allowed to give. 1st time any member climbed in Himalayas before. "Sure its a handicap," but have Alpine experience. Monzino - 3 Feb 73 Last 3 flights arrive 4th or 5th Feb and expedition leave KTM about 15th Feb. All climbers to fly to Lukla about 15 Feb - acclimatization climbing - established base in 1st or 2nd week March. South Col route only - one summit attempt only - how many men and when depends on weather health of 33 climbers (33 if everybody arrive). 33 climbers 6 scientists 11 helicopter people 5-6 radio operators 2 doctors 10 leader, 3 deputy leaders 6 directors 2 photographers 2 information assistants Climbing leader - Piero Navas is 1 of deputy leader Guido Monzino - 15 Nov 69 Hopes to bring expedition in 1973 with 25 members; classical South Col route. Went to Kalapattar for good view and went on trek to see country and people and to meet HMG and Himal Society for expedition. Bech and Carrel also to be members. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2443871 |
| Year | 1973 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
68 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Guido Monzino | M | 1928 | Italy | Leader | Milano, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Rinaldo Carrel | M | 1952 | Italy | Assistant | Cervinia, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Mirko Minuzzo | M | 1946 | Italy | Assistant | Cervinia, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Piero Nava | M | - | Italy | Deputy Leader | Bergamo, Italy | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Giuseppe Pistono | M | - | Italy | Deputy Leader | Aosta, Italy | Instructors Chief in the Military School of Mountaineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Alessandro Molinari | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Captain in the Military School of Mountaineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Fabrizio Innamorati | M | 1942 | Italy | Climber/Transport | Bolzano, Italy | Ski & alpine instructor in the Military School | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierluigi Marconi | M | - | Italy | Cash Director | Trento, Italy | Captain of Finance, instructor of ski & mountaineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Roberto Stella | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Massimo Piero Cappon | M | 1949 | Italy | Press Director | Rome, Italy | Officer in Alpine groups | Details Other expeditions |
| Abostino Tamagno | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Fausto Lorenzi | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Dario Vallata | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Dotti | M | - | Italy | Climber | Bergamo, Italy | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Virginio Epis | M | 1931 | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Adolfo Tancon | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Paolo Plazzota | M | - | Italy | Climber | Bolzano, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Roberto Ferrante | M | - | Italy | Climber | Rome, Italy | Officer in Italian aircraft | Details Other expeditions |
| Edoardo Ragazzi | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Claudio Benedetti | M | 1946 | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Carlo Rossi | M | - | Italy | Climber | Vicenza, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Sandro Trentarossi | M | - | Italy | Climber | Pisa, Italy | Resident officer in Parachute troops instructor of Ski & Mountain | Details Other expeditions |
| Gianni Santoro | M | - | Italy | Climber | Italy | LA Spezia officer in special marine troope (ski & mtn instructor) | Details Other expeditions |
| Giuseppe Verbi | M | - | Italy | Climber | Italy | Spezia officer in special Marine troop, ski & mountain instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Marchisio Mao | M | - | Italy | Climber | Italy | Spezia officer in special Marine troop, ski & mountain instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Bianchi | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Sigfrido Messner | M | - | Italy | Climber | Funes, Bolzano, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Hermann Tauber | M | 1952 | Italy | Climber | Merano, Bolzano, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Vincenzo Mattioli | M | - | Italy | Climber | Milano, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Marco Polo | M | 1944 | Italy | Climber | Milano, Italy | Ski & alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Ivo Nemela | M | - | Italy | Climber | Selva Gardena, Bolzano, Italy | Instructor of skiing | Details Other expeditions |
| Enrico Schnarf | M | - | Italy | Climber | Bolzano, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gualtiero Seeber | M | - | Italy | Climber | Bressanone, Bolzano, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Guiseppe Cheney | M | 1950 | Italy | Climber | Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Ezio Sommadossi | M | - | Italy | Climber | Belluno, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Aurelio De Zolt | M | - | Italy | Climber | Bormio, Sondrio, Italy | Ski & alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Aldo Leviti | M | 1950 | Italy | Climber | Predazzo, Trento, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Fiorenzo Vanzetta | M | - | Italy | Climber | Canazei, Trento, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Moena | Details Other expeditions |
| Giullo Franzio | M | - | Italy | Climber | Moena, Trento, Italy | Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta | Details Other expeditions |
| Luigi Bernardi | M | - | Italy | Climber | Moena, Trento, Italy | Instructor & Mountaineering Military School of Moena | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Curnis | M | 1936 | Italy | Climber | Bergamo, Italy | Ski & alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Arturo Aranda | M | - | Italy | Climber | Chile | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Fucates Baltazar Chatalan | M | - | Italy | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Paolo Cerretelli | M | - | Italy | Climber | Milano, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gianni Sassi | M | - | Italy | Exp Doctor | Milano, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Giuseppe Miserocchi | M | - | Italy | Exp Doctor | Bergamo, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gianfranco Briani | M | - | Italy | Climber | Rome, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pietro Magni | M | - | Italy | Journalist | Bergamo, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ruggero De Zuani | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | Pilot of helicopters | Details Other expeditions |
| Paolo Landucci | M | - | Italy | Climber | Aosta, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gian Claudio Gallesi | M | - | Italy | Climber | Bergamo, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Giovanni Ferro | M | - | Italy | Climber | Viterbo, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mauro Cristallo | M | - | Italy | Helicopter Tech | Bergamo, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Giuseppe Maiu | M | - | Italy | Helicopter Tech | Bergamo, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Francesco Bucci | M | - | Italy | Helicopter Tech | Aosta, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Edoardo Malerba | M | - | Italy | Helicopter Tech | Bolzano, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Antonio Pellizzer | M | - | Italy | Climber | Vicenza, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Giancarlo Mazzini | M | - | Italy | Climber | Bologna, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergio Cappelletti | M | - | Italy | Climber | Viterbo, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pompeo Mastroccola | M | - | Italy | Radio Technician | Bari, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Eugenio Cignacco | M | - | Italy | Climber | Udine, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Cesare Arienta | M | - | Italy | Exp Doctor | Milano, Italy | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa | M | 1940 | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Shambu Tamang | M | 1955 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Lisankhu, Sindhupalchowk | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Sonam Gyaltzen Sherpa | M | 1943 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Bagam, Taksindu, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Giovanni Brunamonti | M | - | Italy | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nicola Paludi | M | - | Italy | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Luigi Pecoraro | M | - | Italy | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER73101 | AAJ | - | - | - | 48:203-204 (1974) | - |
| EVER73101 | - | Monzino, Guido | La Spedizione Italiana All'Everest 1973 | Verona, Milano | - | M482 |
| EVER73101 | MM | - | - | - | 29:13 (Sep 1973) | - |
| EVER73101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420303/Asia-Nepal-Italian-Everest-Expedition | - | - | - |