Everest | 1973 S Col-SE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Everest in 1973 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Guido Monzino. Summit reached on 5th May 1973. 68 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2346
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER73101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1973
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Guido Monzino
Sponsor Italian Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 14th,15th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1973-03-21
Summit Date 1973-05-05
Summit Time 1239
Summit Days 45
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 65
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 88
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/03,5400m),C1(27/03,6150m),C2(31/03,6450m),C3(11/04,7000m),C4(29/04,7500m),C5(30/04,7985m),C6(04/05,8515m),Smt(05,07/05)
Route Notes Hillary - 16 May 73 Not only quantity but much of it good quality heavy duty equipment, not light weight expedition type. Nobody else could afford to bring the weight to base camp and advance base light weight stretches and kerosene heaters and lights at advance base camp communications - complete any set - 3-way support helicopter with Colonel in charge. Camping and education consultant Seans Dir of hold Bks in Australia substanial supplies in cook tent spagetti bolognese coke bean peaches operated like military operation any personal any equipment any communications Ed Hillary - 11 May 73 What Monzino has shown: if you have a couple of platoons of Alpine troops and a couple of helicopters and equipment and funds, that the climbing of Everest by South Col routes is a reliable straightforward procedure. We shouldn't regard this as a mountain expedition; taking a group of service people and getting then to work together on a difficult and challenging objective; more of a together programme. As a mountaineer I think he would have been much better carrying it on European Alps, but he has been very competent. I hope in future that Everest will be left mountaineering parties composed of small groups enthusiast climbers. It's reached the height of ridiculous. 8 teams off 8 3-man assault teams (2 Italians) summit teams were to be flown down to Lukla for rest and recuperation and then flown back to BC. Helicopters key to plan Al Read - 8 May 73 28 April - 2 Chileans from base camp by helicopter enroute to Lukla; met at Pheriche. Al said: 11 members including 2 Chileans had gone to C4 and same of these had eye trouble and frostbite - so all went down to base camp except 2 Chileans who spent 3 days at C4 and were well acclimatized ready and willing to go on up to summit on 29th, but expedition refused to give them Sherpas and told them they could not go to summit, presumably because they not Italians. They were leaving expedition (not clear whether asked to leave or quit). They thought it would make Monzino look bad in Chile since he had gone there to recruit them. They would never climb for another Italian expedition because not in best alpine style: helicopters had stocked C2 with men, supplies fuel which they understand was contrary to HMG permission. Italian embassy told Read on 8 May 2 Chileans at Lukla or base camp, had not come to KTM. ND Shrestha - 7 May 73 2nd group today summits at 13:00 3 Italians, 1 Sherpa Capt. Fabrizio Innamorati Virginio Epis Claudio Benedetti Sonam Gyalzen If weather remains clear will try again up to 14th. ND Shrestha - 5 May 73 2 Italians on Everest succeeded 5 May, 12:39 hours Minuzzo Rinaldo Sirdar Lhakpa Tenzing (Sherpa) Shambu Tamang and returned to C4 which established yesterday 2 pm 28,000 ft. Next group will try day after tomorrow. Gallesi - 25 April 73 Weather bad for past 3 days, preventing radio communication between base camp and higher camps, so no informations, yet about C4. Lord Hunt - 16 April 73 2 Hunts, Wylie and Gurgary to Lukla 17th. Great disservice to other mountaineers in other countries to use techniques against Ministers of Nepal Govt; inevitability of progress: airlifting in context of mountain is in scope of things to come; used in Alaska and in Pamirs. I don't ethically like it, but respect Nepal govt's attitude on employment. One has feelings but uses of technique to overcome human problems advantages of doing it slowly from point of view of acclimatization; in Pamirs we went into much too quickly. A mountain expedition is all of a piece approach march, acclimatization shake down between Europeans and Sherpas; miss tremendously lot esthetically not walking in. Landucci - 19 April 73 eye trouble and one frostbite 24 Verbi - eye 03 Miniuzzo - feet frostbite 16 Tancan - eye In C2 and had to be rescued in afternoon 17:40 hours; weather very strong winds; chopper did not crash; tried to land before all lost; 200m before C2; skidding on ice and hit crevasse at low speed and helicopter damaged and impossible to bring down but rest can be brought. Cristallo not fractured but dislocation of left arm; in KTM but not in hospital. 3 injured stayed in C2 and cared for by Dr in camp. ND Shrestha - 18 April 73 Crashed at C2; went to rescue 3 persons suffering from diarrhea. Yesterday at 17:45 tried to land but because of wind crashed. Engineer injured Cristallo Mauro, right fracture. Padro Landuci and Peca Raro Pilots Luigi safe and sound. 3 sick and 1 injured carried to basecamp and other helicopter brought to KTM. Everest Lindsay Strong reports airdropping pay loads of 150 kg to C2. ND Shrestha - 8 April 73 "Permit strictly for rescue operation, if airdropping, it is violation of permit. Must explain what they are doing." PB Khetri - 5 April 73 Approach route had no facility and no reach in time: time lag. Dr. Curzan - 4 April 73 Saw Everest airdropping on 1 April in Western Cwm; was at Kalapattar, regular flights. Gallesi - 6 March 73 Heavy snowfall this morning at Thyangboche and Lukla; same of expedition have moved off towards base camp probably yesterday. Capt. Gallesi - 4 March 73 Snowing at Thyangboche at 5 pm today where expedition should leave tomorrow but difficult for yaks to move; depends on how deep this evening snowfall becomes; reached Thyangboche about 8 days ago, about 50 Italians at Thyangboche. Monzino - 11 Feb 73 Why South Col route? "because it is easier." Only 5 expeditions have reached summit by it. Don't know now how many men will try to reach summit or how many summit teams or where or how many camps. Cost and financial informations not allowed to give. 1st time any member climbed in Himalayas before. "Sure its a handicap," but have Alpine experience. Monzino - 3 Feb 73 Last 3 flights arrive 4th or 5th Feb and expedition leave KTM about 15th Feb. All climbers to fly to Lukla about 15 Feb - acclimatization climbing - established base in 1st or 2nd week March. South Col route only - one summit attempt only - how many men and when depends on weather health of 33 climbers (33 if everybody arrive). 33 climbers 6 scientists 11 helicopter people 5-6 radio operators 2 doctors 10 leader, 3 deputy leaders 6 directors 2 photographers 2 information assistants Climbing leader - Piero Navas is 1 of deputy leader Guido Monzino - 15 Nov 69 Hopes to bring expedition in 1973 with 25 members; classical South Col route. Went to Kalapattar for good view and went on trek to see country and people and to meet HMG and Himal Society for expedition. Bech and Carrel also to be members.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443871
Year 1973
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

68 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Guido Monzino M 1928 Italy Leader Milano, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Rinaldo Carrel M 1952 Italy Assistant Cervinia, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mirko Minuzzo M 1946 Italy Assistant Cervinia, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Piero Nava M - Italy Deputy Leader Bergamo, Italy Attorney Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Pistono M - Italy Deputy Leader Aosta, Italy Instructors Chief in the Military School of Mountaineering Details Other expeditions
Alessandro Molinari M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Captain in the Military School of Mountaineering Details Other expeditions
Fabrizio Innamorati M 1942 Italy Climber/Transport Bolzano, Italy Ski & alpine instructor in the Military School Details Other expeditions
Pierluigi Marconi M - Italy Cash Director Trento, Italy Captain of Finance, instructor of ski & mountaineering Details Other expeditions
Roberto Stella M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Alpine & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Massimo Piero Cappon M 1949 Italy Press Director Rome, Italy Officer in Alpine groups Details Other expeditions
Abostino Tamagno M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Fausto Lorenzi M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Dario Vallata M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Mario Dotti M - Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Virginio Epis M 1931 Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Adolfo Tancon M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Paolo Plazzota M - Italy Climber Bolzano, Italy Alpine & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Roberto Ferrante M - Italy Climber Rome, Italy Officer in Italian aircraft Details Other expeditions
Edoardo Ragazzi M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Claudio Benedetti M 1946 Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Carlo Rossi M - Italy Climber Vicenza, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Sandro Trentarossi M - Italy Climber Pisa, Italy Resident officer in Parachute troops instructor of Ski & Mountain Details Other expeditions
Gianni Santoro M - Italy Climber Italy LA Spezia officer in special marine troope (ski & mtn instructor) Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Verbi M - Italy Climber Italy Spezia officer in special Marine troop, ski & mountain instructor Details Other expeditions
Marchisio Mao M - Italy Climber Italy Spezia officer in special Marine troop, ski & mountain instructor Details Other expeditions
Mario Bianchi M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Sigfrido Messner M - Italy Climber Funes, Bolzano, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Hermann Tauber M 1952 Italy Climber Merano, Bolzano, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Vincenzo Mattioli M - Italy Climber Milano, Italy Alpine & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Marco Polo M 1944 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Ski & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Ivo Nemela M - Italy Climber Selva Gardena, Bolzano, Italy Instructor of skiing Details Other expeditions
Enrico Schnarf M - Italy Climber Bolzano, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Gualtiero Seeber M - Italy Climber Bressanone, Bolzano, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Guiseppe Cheney M 1950 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Alpine & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Ezio Sommadossi M - Italy Climber Belluno, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Aurelio De Zolt M - Italy Climber Bormio, Sondrio, Italy Ski & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Aldo Leviti M 1950 Italy Climber Predazzo, Trento, Italy Alpine & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Fiorenzo Vanzetta M - Italy Climber Canazei, Trento, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Moena Details Other expeditions
Giullo Franzio M - Italy Climber Moena, Trento, Italy Alpine & ski instructor in Military School of Aosta Details Other expeditions
Luigi Bernardi M - Italy Climber Moena, Trento, Italy Instructor & Mountaineering Military School of Moena Details Other expeditions
Mario Curnis M 1936 Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Ski & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Arturo Aranda M - Italy Climber Chile - Details Other expeditions
Fucates Baltazar Chatalan M - Italy Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Paolo Cerretelli M - Italy Climber Milano, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Gianni Sassi M - Italy Exp Doctor Milano, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Miserocchi M - Italy Exp Doctor Bergamo, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Gianfranco Briani M - Italy Climber Rome, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Pietro Magni M - Italy Journalist Bergamo, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Ruggero De Zuani M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Pilot of helicopters Details Other expeditions
Paolo Landucci M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Gian Claudio Gallesi M - Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Giovanni Ferro M - Italy Climber Viterbo, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Mauro Cristallo M - Italy Helicopter Tech Bergamo, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Maiu M - Italy Helicopter Tech Bergamo, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Francesco Bucci M - Italy Helicopter Tech Aosta, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Edoardo Malerba M - Italy Helicopter Tech Bolzano, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Antonio Pellizzer M - Italy Climber Vicenza, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Giancarlo Mazzini M - Italy Climber Bologna, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Sergio Cappelletti M - Italy Climber Viterbo, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Pompeo Mastroccola M - Italy Radio Technician Bari, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Eugenio Cignacco M - Italy Climber Udine, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Cesare Arienta M - Italy Exp Doctor Milano, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa M 1940 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Shambu Tamang M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Lisankhu, Sindhupalchowk - Details Other expeditions
Sonam Gyaltzen Sherpa M 1943 Nepal H-A Worker Bagam, Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Giovanni Brunamonti M - Italy Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Nicola Paludi M - Italy Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Luigi Pecoraro M - Italy Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER73101 AAJ - - - 48:203-204 (1974) -
EVER73101 - Monzino, Guido La Spedizione Italiana All'Everest 1973 Verona, Milano - M482
EVER73101 MM - - - 29:13 (Sep 1973) -
EVER73101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420303/Asia-Nepal-Italian-Everest-Expedition - - -