Everest | 1972 SW Face

A UK expedition to Everest in 1972 via SW Face, led by Chris Bonington. Summit reached on 12th November 1972. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2354
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER72301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1972
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Chris Bonington
Sponsor British Everest Expedition 1972
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1972-09-14
Summit Date 1972-11-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 59
Total Days 64
Termination Date 1972-11-17
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8230m due to high winds
High Point (m) 8230
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 40
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/09,5350m),C1(22/09,6100m),C2(01/10,6550m),C3(05/10,7000m),C4(12/10,7500m),C5(03/11,7925m),C6(14/11,8230m),xxx(14/11,8230m)
Route Notes Mike Burke came soon with ITV camera equipment - wife arrive today with all others not Rosedale. Bonington - 23 Aug 72 Organized expedition very quickly. Only started when heard last expedition hadn't suceeded to climb SW Face. Even so, better organized then Annapurna S Face. Thanks to Tiso and Kent. Also without July's liaison and chose cap from HMG. Using basic pattern of previous expedition. We know the line we can take up to C6 at 27,000 ft and vast challenge of SW Face is that final 2000 ft getting across that rock band and up gully across face and post monsoon cold. I'd like to be somewhere fairly far from front and first behind lead climbers. We have sent very lead climbers ultimate reward is to stand on top of Everest and 2 who do that are roped of whole team. 6 lead climbers: Dougal, Hamish, Scott, Bathgate, Burke established international expedition of 1971 had the worse season any expedition ever had. The thing that defeated that expedition was appalling weather. If Everest is in bad condition, doesn't matter how good your team. Nothing wrong with internationalism; what you do want is group of people who know each other very well indeed and this we do. Cohesive team with one end in view: to climb the mountain by whoever going best at that time. Why not Dave? "best team that will work together" is what wanted; he's a very good climber. I selected what I felt best team for the problem. If we find the summit rocks are impossible via gully straight up. Would go to South Ridge but I feel this may have stronger winds - not trying a directissima. Go very near S Summit - go up gully to right and join original route at col but S and Main summit 200-300 ft below summit by then will have climbed the SW Face. Will leave to future gestures the directissima. Himalayan climbing hasn't yet reached age of directissima; this beyond the logistic pavers we have at present. Our O2 and other equipment much too heavy own equipment std, tried equipment. Hope to establish a C6 at about 28,000. Bivs in the winter are chilly. Going to have to face minus 20-30 degrees, +100 mph winds. "Its going to be desparately difficult climb in these conditions." "Given good weather we have a good chance of success." Always element of luck. We've tried to eliminate all faults and weaknesses possible so if we fail be more due to bad luck than ourselves. Every load prepacked for porter's backs and already sorted for various camps and individuals. Could be first expedition Sherpas equipped better than ourselves. Summit attempt depends on when monsoon ends and subsequent weather. Earliest is end of Oct; latest: long as one can keep going so probably end Nov. Bonington - 24 Aug 72 "When you climb in the Himalayas you have to accept the fact that there is an element of objective danger," - re Ians death on Annapurna South Face at slide show for Nepal-British Society. JOM Roberts - 18 Sept 72 Apparently Icefall in better conditions in post-monsoon. 2 years experience and Schneider skied down most of it in post monsoon. 1951 recce also easily into Icefall. MacInnes - 22 Nov 72 Dougal and I went up to establish C6. Dougal was half on hour ahead of me. My axe packed in and I had to go back to C5. Scott and Burke also reached C6 but returned to C4 saying couldn't; they did it on bad day with high winds - very very cold. Escourt definite frostbite in big toes and Bathgate's toes, still make forthnight later; so they and Sherpas went down for rest. Next problem: to stock C6 and to help and stocked because only, box tents possible at C4 and Tiso had already been hit by falling stones which C4 subject to. 9 Nov Bonington and 1 Sherpa up to C5 and Tiso in charge of C4 with 4 Sherpas. Objective to stack C5 for 1st assault party of McInnes and Haston supported by Burke and Scott. Bonington and Sherpas man last 100 ft of rope to C6 and carried 2 loads next day. 1 Sherpa did another carry to C6. 12 Nov Haston and MacInnes roamed up to C5 but still not enough gear in C6. Tiso hit so C4 now not in that camp. 13 Nov Bonington did solo carry to C6 and back to C4. Plans for 14th: MacInnes and Haston to move up to C6 but tent not erected. 13 Nov Burke and Scott up C5 because can't leave tent unoccupied for it will be blown away 14 Nov 4 members set out for C6. MacInnes and Haston to stay there with other 2 to keep them supplied 14 Nov - Haston, Scott and I set out from C5 (I was first) towards C6 and made fairly uneventful passage to C6 except from wind which very high which occasionally blew me off the ropes. I reached site of C6 about 2 pm - wind was very strong - went to place where Chris had dumped gear for site and there winds so bad could scarcely stand up. Went wondering around for sheltered spots but no shelter at all - wind swirling around. An hour later Scott came up and joined us. Hamish had had trouble with axe set and turned back not very far above C5 (maybe half hour above). We talked to each other then as much as we could in the wind. We also looked at way ahead and this had been blown completely free of snow and this would make climbing all more difficult. With wind absolutely impossible to climb. Certain parts had to be done without gloves which meant frostbite and 2nd man standing waiting also would freeze; also trying erect tent it would have been blown away. Decided these condition would prevail and decided to come down. Met Burke on way up towards C6 and he agreed with decision. Spent that night at C5. Reached C5 between 4-5 pm. Compared with autumn spring is very nice, very pleasant. Less wind, better temperature; wind is whole crux of problem. Route we had chosen a good route. Bonington Nothing is impossible but I reckon its bloody difficult. If you reach South Col there are days when no wind. SW Face even if try way round side to SE Ridge. In post monsoon very difficult, but I wouldn't say its impossible. So many things have been declared impossible. We preferably spent more time above 26,000 ft in post-monsoon season in over party of 10, all reached C4 and C5; I very nerly reached C6. Bathgate and Escourt made route to 400 ft vertical height. 5 actually stood at C6. This indicated but top of Everest very unpredictable place, gully swept clean of all snow. Conditions insufferable - worst conditions I've ever come across. We'd realized conditions were going to be insufferable. Proposed C7 we realized amount of time taking we couldn't use C7 and decided to make route through rock bend fixing ropes; but Haston knew rock band which he'd seen earlier expedition. When Dougal told his decision, I have total and absolute trust in his judgement as a climber, impossible to climb this gully without snow. In 1971 had reasonable amount of snow but this autumn snow blown away by wind of incredible force: just rock instead of snow in ultra-cold and ultra-windy conditions. If I had urged them to press on might well have lost someone or had severe frostbite end of Oct which would have wiped out most expeditions and kind that wiped out Argentinians. Lasted 5 days and it forced us to vacate C4 when large stone size of football hit tent Bathgate and Estcourt were in and destroyed it but didn't hurt them. Tiso really splendid stay in C3 and thus kept one box occupiable. C2 Rosedale and Bonington with Sherpas: tents being buried in snow. I had heaviest snow of all and miracle no one hurt: Sherpas tent buried in 5 feet of snow (all Sherpas in C1). So end of storm lot of tents destroyed and time lost but we pressed up again. Morale of Sherpas and climbers ?? Each storm caused delay; total in Oct at least fortnight (storm and redeployment time). Tony Tighe - close friend of mine Haston and Burke. I said he could join us at base and manage it. On last day I told Tony he could come up Icefall to meet us and see C1. Tony went up just behind 12 Sherpas. In Icefall you don't go roped up; this well-marked and bridged and roped track; a narrow road but desparately dangerous road with seracs that can collapse. Tony passed us (MacInnes, Haston, Scott and myself) and last who could have seen him alive was Phukipa. Tighe at top of Icefall. Sherpas coming down from C1: Phukipa 1st of 6 Sherpas behind with Ang Tende in front and as AT dropped its rope entire ridge collapsed without any using and he left suspended about 10 minutes while other Sherpas turned back. If 5 minutes later, all Sherpas would have died. Rosedale at C1 promptly organized other Sherpas and went straight down and rescued AT when bringing from rope. When Rosedale and party came to BC asked "where's Tony?" Tony not seen; 100% certain Tony must have route gone into trough and must have been in it at time of collapse and must have been covered by hundreds of tons of ice and death must have been instantanous. Immediately Burke and Bathgate that night went straight up with 4 Sherpas to look for him in bright moonlight. Next am MacInnes and Scott went up and to rescue him. MacInnes said most dangerous area he'd been in. Radio on 14th evening Tighe asked permission of Chris to come up I would love to come back to Nepal. No comment on possibility of HMG action on Tighe being above BC. Tighe was architect, sound mountaineer and good skier and ski mountaineer; his 1st time in Himalayas. Brasher - 17 Nov 72 MacInnes, Haston, Burke and Scott moved up from C5 to C6. They were being blown off their feet; managed reached C6 and but nothing sheltered from wind. After 15 minutes hands and feet were blocks of ice. Stayed perhaps 1/2 hour in afternoon. Returned to C5 in the evening and walkie-talkie between Dougal and Bonington and was decided hopeless because of cold and wind. -21 degrees C at BC; in double sleeping bags plus all down clothing. Brasher - 18 Nov 72 Tighe killed when hundred tons of ice fell on him near top of Icefall yesterday midday. Body not found, no one else was with him. 6 Sherpas nearby just escaped although one left dangling on rope and rescued by Dr. Rosedale and 4 other Sherpas. Friend of Dougal Haston and came to BC to help in any way he could and made himself "absolutely invaluable" at BC including taking load of Kelvin who has frostbite in both hands. Went up yesterday to help Barney evacuate expedition. JOM Roberts - 28 Oct (Base Camp) C5 not yet occupied, unsettled conditions sets in on 25 Oct (on this day the French made a summit attempt on Pumori which turned back only 200m below the summit) and heavy snow fell all day and night 26 and 27 Oct. On 28 Oct conditions are better but it will take a few days to remake the route from base camp upwards. Major Kent who suffered some frostbite injury to his fingers on 16 Oct (not 17 Oct as earlier reported by me) is making a good recovery. He will remain with the expedition but will not climb higher than base camp. For local As at night 27 Oct, 1 member at C3 and remainder at C2, C1 and base camp. Wind and then snowfall have caused expedition to fall slightly behind schedule. However, earlier progress was so good that any slowing up is apt to viewed out of preparation. We still have time in our hands and bonus of just 10-15 days fair weather, might spell a dramatic change in our fortunes. Remember that quite apart from the SW Face we are trying to do something some pundits have declared impossible the ascent of Everest post-monsoon by any route. Whatever we achieve, the achievement will not have been easy. Mountain Magazine's Ken Wilson - 30 Oct 72 ropes fixed to C5 (Wilson left base 27th C2 25th On 26 the weather deteriorated from a bit overcast and night 25/26 stone hit C4 and badly damaged 2 boxes and Estcourt and Bathgate who had replaced Bonington. They gotten 2 sets loads to C4 for C5. Evacuated C4 on 26th and on 25/26th started snow - big storm on face: must have been winds on face. Tiso in C3 on 26th, only man on face 26th snow all day, but Burke and Scott left base to try to reestablish C4. Reached C1 on 26 but not to C2 because bad conditions: found ridge at top of Icefall had to be repaired. So 27th Hamish was supposed go up from base to repair bridge but snow too bad to leave base. Boxes have proved to be weak. Were going to ask French from Pumori to sell French boxes which hope are stronger. French got 100m from summit on summit ridge and thus finished their route but 300 ft below summit and appeared to be retreating; bad weather hit them too. Everest expedition in very serious position; snow yesterday all day so 3 days of snow, damage bridge in a crevasse; only man at most on face; and C4 devastated, only have rope to C5 - morale and fittness of climbers high but morale of Sherpas mediocre. Very, very cold on face. C4 must be rebuilt before can go higher. "Chances now one less than I have given them in summer: snow and boxes have food for 3 weeks and can spread it out." Brasher should have reached base 27th.
Accidents Tony Tighe killed in icefall by falling serac
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443696
Year 1972
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christian John Storey (Chris) Bonington M 1934 UK Leader Bowdon, Cheshire, England Photojournalist & lecturer Details Other expeditions
Dave Bathgate M 1941 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland Master joiner Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mick) Burke M 1941 UK Photographer London, England Film cameraman Details Other expeditions
Nick Estcourt M 1942 UK Climber Bowdon, Cheshire, England Systems analyst Details Other expeditions
Dougal Haston M 1942 UK Climber Leysin, Vaud, Switzerland Director of International School of Mountaineering, Leysin Details Other expeditions
Kelvin B. Kent M 1939 UK Climber/BC Manager Camberley, Surrey, England Major in Royal Signals Details Other expeditions
Hamish MacInnes M 1930 UK Climber Glencoe, Argyll, Scotland Writer, photographer & mountaineering equipment designer Details Other expeditions
Barney Rosedale M 1937 UK Exp Doctor - Physician at Musgrove Park Hospital Details Other expeditions
Douglas Keith (Doug) Scott M 1941 UK Climber Chilwall, Nottingham, England School teacher Details Other expeditions
Graham Tiso M 1935 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland Retailer & designer of mountaineering equipment Details Other expeditions
James Owen Merion Roberts M 1916 UK Deputy Leader Kathmandu Retired British Gurkha officer, proprietor of trek organization Details Other expeditions
Tony Tighe M 1948 Australia BC Manager - - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tharke Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pertemba Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Jangbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER72301 AAJ - - - 47:479-480 (1973) -
EVER72301 HJ Bonington, Christian Everest South West Face - 32:1-5 (1972-73) -
EVER72301 MM - - - 22:8 (Jul 1972) -
EVER72301 MM - - - 25:10 (Jan 1973) -
EVER72301 MM Scott, Doug Some Thoughts on the Everest Problem - 26:36-39 (Mar 1973) -
EVER72301 - Bonington, Chris Everest South West Face Hodder & Stoughton, London - B462
EVER72301 - Bonington, Chris The Ultimate Challenge Stein & Day, New York - B462
EVER72301 - Scott, Doug Himalayan Climber Sierra Club Books, San Francisco - S252
EVER72301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197347900/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Post-Monsoon-Attempt - - -
EVER72301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/32/2/everest-south-west-face-1972/ - - -