Everest | 1972 SW Face

A W Germany expedition to Everest in 1972 via SW Face, led by Karl M. Herrligkoffer. Summit reached on 20th May 1972. 23 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2372
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER72101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1972
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Karl M. Herrligkoffer
Sponsor First European Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Italy, Switzerland, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1972-03-21
Summit Date 1972-05-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 60
Total Days 65
Termination Date 1972-05-25
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8350m due to cold weather (also low morale and team disunity)
High Point (m) 8350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 23
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 30
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/03,5250m),C1(03/04,6050m),C2(09/04,6450m),C3(17/04,6900m),C4(26/04,7400m),C5(11/05,7900m),C6(20/05,8200m),xxx(20/05,8350m)
Route Notes Adi Weissensteiner - 2 June 72 Don Whillans was not strong enough to reach summit. Austrians wanted Hamish to be in summit team, but out of loyalties Hamish left expedition with Whillans who had invited him on expedition in first place. MacInnes, Scott and Whillans - 28 May 72 Of 55 persons, the non-pulling of weight of one person which caused failure. Don: if the Austrians had cooperated might have been successful. Scott: Proof; film on TV showing British making C4 and C5; compare speed of British and Austrians making camps. Scott and Whillans carried rope and tent to C5, repaired ropes from last year and returned to C4. Kuen and Huber came up to C4 and said British should go down - heated argument. Kuen threatened to go down themselves and call off expedition. British said they'd take 2 Austrians up and install them and also said once camp stocked British wanted come up too. Next day 3 British and 2 Austrians up. British first and leveled snow for tent. Austrians with 2 Sherpas carrying their Austrians personal gear. British then went down after they had done almost all work in putting up the tent, etc. Kuen and Huber all the way had Sherpas carrying their personal gear because they being saved for the top. Austrians went down off face for 10 days on early May to meet Herrligkoffer and took Sherpas with them for 10 days; not a one of them on the face "except for our work in those ten days - they'd never have had any summit attempt" - Don C4 reached on 26 April. Austrians found Japanese ropes, left part of a platform and a box tent and then went down and "away for the holiday." British then put up another tent at C3 and then went up to C4, selected sites, erected platforms and box tents on platforms. This the beginning of 10 day period when British in C4 and all others except Weissensteiner (in C2) were at base to "give rousing cheer" when Herrligkoffer would arrive in base by helicopter; holiday announced by Herrligkoffer upon his arrival at base. Whillans spent week in Munich trying to head off problems. Discussed Sherpa nbrs (40 he said and Herrligkoffer cut to 30) and their equipment (send required same as us and Herrligkoffer didn't bring at first). Don: "They were very much afraid of our getting in the lead; they extracted promise that after we'd go up to C5, we'd come down and we did go." Then the 10 days rest for others which Don opposed and British carried on work alone. Don no doubt about it: there was anti-British feeling right from the beginning. "We finally just got sick of it" both Perner and Berger separately declared "I no carry for English." Most didn't understand British had a job to do, a film unit to make a film. Austrians never accepted fact it was a European expedition. Never accepted Saleki, Berger, Breitenberger either. Some Austrians also unhappy and threatened not to carry for others, then Kuen directed this to British. Perner in Panorama Hotel in beginning said the Austrians especially Kuen don't like British and there's going to be trouble. Leader, a doctor, refused to recognize acclimatization needs. Expedition flew to Lukla, rushed to base camp, rushed into icefall. "He even did himself in." Austrians never put up a tent for British. Scott: "It was as though they tolerated us to get maximum information from Don and then cut us out" Don: "This failed because they cut us out too soon. There was still too much work to do and they not strong enough to do it." Whillans - 27 May 72 We reached an important stratum and made it impossible to stay with the expedition; left expedition 19th. Went to 26,000 ft all 3 on 17th to make C4. We cut out snow for platform for tent. Situation between British and them became such it impossible to stay with expedition. When started? roots in the beginning. 3 British arrived today from Lukla. JOM Roberts - 24 May 72 "Compared to International expedition considering how much better weather and strong climber they had rather disappointing that they failed make full use of these advantages and didn't apparently failed even to reach as high a point as did intense last year. Everest 20 May est 6 and last 8200m 21 May summit attempt reached 8250m Sudden bad weather expedition abandoned 23 May; leave base 26 May. 3 attempts by SW Face: 1 Japanese, 2 international Breitenberger - 8 May 72 Glad to be leaving expedition. International expeditions never work out well. Everest SW Face route impossibly dangerous. Other members thought he was pretending to be ill, but lost about 20 kg on Everest. Saleki not a very good climber; could not have gone to C4 alone. Herrligkoffer - 4 May 72 Goodbye from Himalaya with broken heart, better then sick heart, I take farewell of any avocation (hobby job) as initiator, leader and doctor of 10 Himalayas expeditions. During the preparations works of Everest expedition, I got seriously ill with influenza, or the consequence was heavy heart trouble, but my health was better as the months passed and I thought that I can do my job as leader and Dr. So that I would not have too much work as expedition Dr, I tried to find an experienced mountaineering Dr. I thought of Dr Karl Winkler of Munich but shortly before our departure, he had to say no because of his work. I tried to get a substitute for him, and I found this in same 2 Drs, Dr Zeitz and Dr Fach, who have planned studies. But also these Drs have trouble with leaves and had to have base camp after 2 weeks. However they could do my work at this time while I have to search equipment. On the planned date, 30 April, I again reached base camp, to save time I flew by helicopter from KTM to 5400m, in 2 days from Munich to Everest. The 1st 3 days, all seemed to be going well. With the help of oxygen, I tried to acclimatized on the 3rd day I felt so well, I thought I could do without any oxygen; in the night of 3/4 May I got pulmonary edema. Dr. spite of hallucinations my own situations was clear to me and also my responsibility to the expedition and I decided to take the helicopter which was due to arrive on this day (Leo Breitenberger has to fly out at his own wish because of pneumonia). Also in the helicopter Werner came with me; he has injured his leg from a rock fall on the SW Face of Everest, that is my farewell not only from the Everest expedition but also from the Himalayas. Will I look for other expedition? Yes, but only at lower altitudes for 1973-74 is planned on Antarctic expedition, in so called Admiralty mountains with mountains about with 4000m. They came out of the sea directly and connect the coast with inland ice. Haim's leg not broken; will return soon and after 2 weeks perhaps climb again. Breitenberger has pneumonia, in hospital; to Italy next Thursday; hope Herrligkoffer not back to base. Will stay KTM few days then Germany. Anderl now assured not much snow on Face. From Cwm to C3 is ice like glass - and half to C4 also ice and then rocky - much stonefall. All above C2 wear helmets. Schneider had sure hit his helmet 2 May. Whillans box tent in C4 kaput; took 1 platform to C4 and found another already there. Haim carried to C3 from C2 and C1 with part of Japanese platform at C3; left 12:30 from C1 with him and snow that morning and reached base only at night and fell in crevasse; in this difficult part had crawl/walk - 3m deep; pulled out by Schneider and Huber and 6 Sherpas. C4 at neck of rock found, C5 on right side and better. C5 to be established about 11-12th; camp will be highest camp with biv above. Don wants C8 but Kuen doesn't like it. If I came one day later in helicopter we have a strike. 12 Sherpas asking for their money and Rs 1000 near given sirdar as guarantee that equipment coming (4 sacks with him ex-KTM only to Pheriche). Can make 2 groups 4 men each for summit and if weather permits 2nd group after helping 1st with oxygen can themselves go to summit - it is necessary 1 man sure on top rather then 8 members perhaps - if 8 men stop 100m from top "this for nothing." Haim's "rock" - Schneider's rock size don't know: deflected by Helmet and he not hurt. C3 protected from rock by overhang and C5 off to one side and also Ok. From C4 will follow Whillans-Haston route. Will start up above C4 on 8th; expect find some fixed rope from last year above C4 but danger may be broken. 1st summit group maybe Whillans Scott Kuen Huber 2nd group Perner MacInnes ? Schneider ? Maag if acclimatized (always at base until recently) ? Sager Herrligkoffer - 4 May 72 Haim and Breitenberger rock fell from C2 to C3 on top of him, broke leg bone, 1 May. Breitenberger fever and pluersey in lungs; camps to base 29th; became sick in C2; had helped C4. Herrligkoffer came, wants X-ray of Haim. Haim would came only since helicopter; will return to base camp to help there. Breitenberger to Italy. Whillans and other British today in C2; he made camp C4 ready and then down. Weiss and Sager in base since yesterday for rest until 7 May; no one in C3 and C4 today. If weather is also good I think climbers have success 20 May. 3 platforms at C3 1st in C4: Kuen Haim Huber Breitenberger made fixed rope to C4 Saleki - 30 April 72 Saleki well. Saleki left expedition today. Told Binaya better one nation go to mountain. "I'm so glad I have finished. I am free man." Saleki brought Breitenberger from C2 to base yesterday sick; pain in mid-section and coughing a lot, but others don't believe he's really ill just lazy. Saleki doesn't think he can climb any more. Saleki kept Breit's arm over Saleki's shoulders and roped together; to C1 this way taking 3 hours to do (1 hr - from C1 then icefall almost carried by Saleki and Sherpas). Saleki doesn't say why he left but he expects fight on wall between Breitenberger and Austrians. Bednar now returned to expedition, but carrying only very slowly and light loads - in C1 carrying to C2 these days. Don now climbing well. Scott now climbing well and pacing themselves well. C3 on ice - not using platforms so far. C4 platforms may be same Japanese some new. Saleki to stay KTM same days, 3-4 days then to Germany. English have no friends on expedition except Saleki. Don feigns leg pains so as not to be forced carry loads every day. Icefall towers fallen between route is still open - much fixed rope under towers and Sherpas spend every day [fixing it]. British-Australians relations better now. yesterday C3 Hamish Don Scott from C4 Schneider yesterday C4 Berger Perner Today to C4 Don Scott Schneider to stay and go above This morning 30 April: Base camp Gorter Anderl Sager - left for C1 Van Hobe Herrligkoffer Breitenberger Maag C1 Bednar Weissensteiner C2 Kuen Huber } carrying to C3 and back Haim C3 Don - to C4 Scott - to C4 Hamish Schneider - to C4 Berger Perner Drs Zeitz and Fach - 6 April 72 Study absorption of fatty emulsion which indicates resistance to virus and bacteria; will later add to subject same medicine and see how it changes requires extreme care and precision. Will do 50 persons. Stay 2 weeks, then to KTM 2/3 May. Test at base - possibly above base at C1 and C2 are fixed official members of expedition but had to finance separately, by watch Company and order firm. Herrligkoffer - 4 April 72 Herrligkoffer and Anderl ex-Pheriche and Von Hobe. Expedition going on very well; reached base 26 March at 5400m same as last years camps. 2 hrs Sherpas strike. 4 loads equipment and food lost and Sherpas wouldn't go on before they had equipment and only would start when have full equipment. Now Herrligkoffer goes earlier and quicken then originally placed for a contract; now gets equipment and brings it back with him. 12 Sherpas have full equipment and they go every day; others go also up to C2. Will return to Nepal in 2 weeks. Have reached C1 2 April and today Kuen, Huber, Haim and British to C1 to stay - beyond icefall top at 6000m. Kuen established camp with other Austrians and Sherpas will bring 15 down jackets and trousers and boots - must be exactly same as members (+ boots must be Sherpas smaller). Climbing has been exactly according to plan. Austrians team is very good in their work. Miss Von Hobe to see KTM and Anderl to arrange food climbers in C2 will reach C2 in 2 days. Weather very cold = 10-15 degrees in night. Fair every day until midday little cloudy. Kuen in danger of climbing expedition - Weist and Maag. Whillans not fully acclimatized yet; is at base - dizzy - better then last year.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443520
Year 1972
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

23 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michel Anderl M 1915 W Germany Deputy Leader Bad Toelz, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Peter Bednar M 1943 W Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Engineer Details Other expeditions
Hans Berger M 1948 Switzerland Climber Davos, Graubunden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Leo Breitenberger M 1945 Italy Climber Marling, Bolzano, Italy Teacher of farming Details Other expeditions
Michael Fach M 1944 W Germany Scientific Team Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, W Germany Scientist Details Other expeditions
Jurgen Gorter M 1932 W Germany TV Cameraman Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Film producer Details Other expeditions
Werner Haim M 1941 Austria Climber Absam, Tirol, Austria Army alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Karl Maria Herrligkoffer M 1916 W Germany Leader/Exp Doctor Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Adolf (Adi) Huber M 1939 Austria Climber Palfau, Styria, Austria Alpine guide & carpenter Details Other expeditions
Edelwald Huettl M 1930 W Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Geologist Details Other expeditions
Felix Kuen M 1936 Austria Face Leader Solbad Hall, Tirol, Austria Army alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Josef Maag M 1928 W Germany Climber Lechbruck, Bavaria, W Germany Bricklayer Details Other expeditions
Hamish MacInnes M 1930 UK Climber Glencoe, Argyll, Scotland Mountain-rescue equipment manufacturer Details Other expeditions
Udo Mehler M 1940 W Germany Scientific Team Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, W Germany Furrier & amateur biologist Details Other expeditions
Peter Perner M 1943 Austria Climber Ramsau, Styria, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Adi Sager M 1935 Austria Climber Hinterstoder, Upper Austria, Austria Army alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Mischa Saleki M 1945 W Germany/Iran Climber Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, W Germany Engineering student Details Other expeditions
Horst Schneider M 1939 Austria Climber St. Johann, Tirol, Austria Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Douglas Keith (Doug) Scott M 1941 UK Climber Nottingham, E Midlands, England School teacher Details Other expeditions
Alice Von Hobe F 1939 W Germany Scientific Team Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Adolf Richard (Adi) Weissensteiner M 1938 Austria Climber Admont, Styria, Austria Mechanic & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Donald Desbrow (Don) Whillans M 1933 UK Climber Rossendale, Lancashire, England Lecturer on mountaineering; plumber Details Other expeditions
Joachin Zeitz M 1944 W Germany Scientific Team Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, W Germany Plastic surgeon Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER72101 AAJ - - - 47:478-479 (1973) -
EVER72101 HJ Herrligkoffer, Dr. Karl Mt. Everest, 1972 - 33:14-17 (1973-74) -
EVER72101 - Herrligkoffer, Karl M. Mount Everest, Throne der Gotter Spectrum, Stuttgart - H272
EVER72101 MM - - - 20:12 (Mar 1972) -
EVER72101 MM - - - 22:7-8 (Jul 1972) -
EVER72101 MM Scott, Doug To Rest is Not to Conquer - 23:10-18 (Sep 1972) -
EVER72101 - Herrligkoffer, Karl M. Mein Weg in den Himalaya Pietsch, Stuttgart - H277
EVER72101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197347805/Asia-Nepal-European-Everest-Expedition - - -
EVER72101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/4/mt-everest-1972/ - - -