Everest | 1971 W Cwm-W Ridge (to 7300m)

A Switzerland expedition to Everest in 1971 via W Cwm-W Ridge (to 7300m), led by Norman Dyhrenfurth, J. O. M. Roberts. Summit reached on 20th May 1971. 33 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2468
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER71101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1971
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Cwm-W Ridge (to 7300m)
Route 2 S Col (to 6900m)
Route 3 SW Face (to 8380m)
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Norman Dyhrenfurth, J. O. M. Roberts
Sponsor International Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Austria, France, India, Italy, Japan, Norway, Poland, UK, USA, W Germany
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1971-03-22
Summit Date 1971-05-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 59
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8380m due to bad weather and illness
High Point (m) 8380
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 31
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 55
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/03,5425m),C1(03/04,6250m),C2(05/04,6600m),SwF.C3(09/04,7000m),SwF.C4(01/05,7450m),SwF.C5(08/05,8000m),SwF.C6(17/05,8290m),xxx(20/05,8380m)
Route Notes Roberts - 29 May 71 Some paper said it's a sad story, we don't think it's a a sad story; it was an attempt on the most difficult face in the world so I think it's a good story on the whole. Very bad weather indeed. This the basic cause of failure: once the weather goes bad, it affects everything else. Bahuguna's death of course very sad but did not affect outcome. Sickness meant only 4 climbers in end; 13 in start, 3 left us (Heibeler was sick), so 10 left intentionally so not so bad. Don't agree was lack of planning. When get bad weather and bad conditions things can temporarily get out of control. Indeed had all Sherpas on face route and still they were shouting for more Sherpas. Had lost 2-3 weeks with blizzard and Bahuguna's death; if had stayed with 2nd route would have had even poorer results. "Very bitterly disappointed by the failure." 3 years work. Apart from Bahuguna's death nothing to regret. Schloemmer contributed nothing to expedition, did very very little for expedition. Axt was asked to come up to top camp and help us out and he in C2 said he was thinking it over and in fact after thinking it over, went down to base; he never did go on face. Schloemmer never carried loads on face, not even personal gear. People like Maz and Mauri after storm said face not possible, We got higher then any one else. We placed C6 at 27,000 ft and were very close to success. We were making progress every day and felt must use every day to the full. Day before abandonment traversed over to South Buttress and could have gone to summit that way, but would not on the face and that's not what we came to do. Could have done it in one day. 23 people climbed Everest by that route; face not impossible to climb but not possible in our extended state; would have needed another camp. 2 Japanese were not united; climbed with Sherpas making 2 teams. Ito to give up the climb at one stage (when established C4, about 2 weeks before end) and didn't come up from C2 onto the face for one week: then changed his mind and came back up with a Sherpa in a support role. "Rubbish" that Japanese not allowed up to lead: whenever Dougal and Don wanted to come down and let others take over, there was no one there. At end only Ito and 1 Sherpa in support and week in back: had to get off mountain safely and weather again going to get back there was a lot of trouble (amongst climbers). Dougal and I came to climb a mountain to climb the face, not to argue about routes and while all the arguing going on me just kept climbing. The people who left us really intended to climb by S Col route all along. "Big shock to me when Dyhrenfurth and Evans got sick and learned they gone down to base and Dyhrenfurth left altogether. I wondered what was going to happen because from base can't see mountain. For 10 days no one at advance base camp, where could see who could judge what was going on. We lost a lot of time over this: there was some confusion in C2 until Peterson came up and then Evans came back; during this time expedition only half working. Extreme cold was hampering us a lot. It looked as if we'd have to establish a C7 and it's doubtful of 2 support people at the back (C5) could have given up the supplies we needed. Dropouts had some effect: think lost in argument, then West Ridgers who said would support face then got sick. International: "fantastic gamble, but I feel that the people who were left in the end worked very well together." Expedition 50% successful; we failed our fairly summit bid, but successful in working together. Roberts: We chose badly in some cases; if we'd chosen young climbers like Norwegians, Ok. Wouldn't want to lead another Everest expedition; one-man expeditions for him. If I was asked to go again a face I'd go back definitely. We had the satisfaction of trying to climb; for those who didn't even try and left no satisfaction at all, we probably would have succeeded if they'd backed us up. Bahuguna's fingers, eyes wide, face crusted with ice could not recognize Whillans and could not speak; when left him, could have lasted only 20 mins. Bahuguna's death due series of mistakes by Bahuguna and Axt themselves and perhaps allowing them to go so high alone had to leave him because in 10 minutes would be totally dark (took 5 hours 40 mins to bring him down after storm) and all others would have been frozen too. I lost 1 stone on Everest, 2-1/2 on Annapurna South. From when we abandoned climb, 5 more days to reach summit with 1 tent C7 to sleep in. Haston - 27 May 71 Haston, Uemura, Ito and Peterson on possible directissima: "we hadn't cracked." Bad weather and supply conditions; were coming back left beneath South summit and would have been again on straight line at 28,000 ft; reached 27,500 ft going slightly left; pretty well needed C7 at about 28,000 ft unless could have fixed rope to 28,000 ft "would like to try again." "Absolute nonsense" this expedition to put 2 Britons on top; others bid not trying to climb face. We badly needed support but got it only from 2 Japanese. Axt's and Schloemmer's bid to come up face "complete balls." When Don, Doug and Ito at C5 asked for 1 of 2 Austrians to come help; would have and replace next. When Schloemmer at C4 and was told from C5 (in desperate need of help to make 2-man teams) to come up, but Schloemmer said had to have Sherpa to carry his personal gear and C5'ers said Sherpa needed for carrying supplies only. Reclimbing Everest again I "would prefer to take it with group of climbers I already climbed with and I knew." "We could have done with team of 8 lead climbers." 4 which did have not enough. Annapurna South Face team would have had better chance. "From C5, it took up about a week to fix ropes and establish C6. Climbing fairly difficult snow and ice but not excessive. C6 we fixed beneath the rock wall and this we preposed to climb by means of a chimney which would lead us to easier angled climbing beneath the summit to left of summit. Climbed about 500 ft of this chimney before we ran out of rope. Difficult climbing at this altitude; then ran out of rope, oxygen and food which Sherpas unable to get up to us because of weather. Necessary for push to be made by Don and I if any climbing to be done at all. We were only ones who could push hard enough to get the route going. Japanese were happy as long as they were with us: they the only others who had experience of high Himal. Japanese reached C6 once carrying loads but did not stay night that camp. If defectors had not left night have helped to success. Vaucher and Mauri might have gone high on face. Of course we were disappointed in not succeeding; wife "fantastic" what he did (she was in base 3 days before he came down to base). With over very small team managed climb almost 2000 ft higher then very strong Japanese team. We thought we had chance of summit, but only on 1st day when supplies not coming up and stopped climbing that day in mid afternoon Whillans said "I don't reckon we are going to make it." If had good weather and enough supplies, another 4-5 days to make summit. Not enough Sherpas on face, Phu Temba only one got to C6. Uemura: Did not stay up all the time because to stay up too long we get very weak and not able to carry up supplies to D & D. Went to C6, 2 trips in one day carrying ropes and cooking set - this my obligation because we had to help them. Don was leader of South Face a that time and all time he decide. Ito and Uemura did what were told and helped D & D. If they had success then we very happy we helped them. If weather had been good, expedition could have succeeded. If we given chance 2 Japanese would have tried for summit, but chance not given because weather bad and not much time. If both Japanese 2 times to C6. Ito carried oxygen and tent from C4. Not so many falling rocks this year on face because snow (Uemura reached 8000m in 1969 on face, Ito 1970 7500m on face) "Directissima possible but very difficult." 23 May Base camp to be evacuated early 24th May. No radio contact on 24th; next contact from Thyangboche at 2:00 pm on 25th. Isles and Teigland arrived KTM 23 May; Howell and Eliassen coming tomorrow. Axt & Schloemmer - 24 May 71 Schloemmer and Axt came down to advance because no room in high camps. Axt: C3 3 tents C5 3 tents (1 very dangerous from stonefall, 1 tent only for more than 1 week) C5 2 tents (1 tent only for more than 1 week) C6 1 tent Lack of climbing leader in C2. "No right leading on the face; everyone did what he liked." Axt: "I went up on 5th May but until 13th May I could not go on the face because no room, very difficult to find safe place for tents." C3 full of Sherpas carrying up loads. "There must be authority to say who goes up and who comes down." 2 British stayed up three weeks and should have come down so fresh could have gone up. "I cannot say to Dougal come down because I am not leader." No leader there to change team; 3 weeks up too much; British wanted to monopolize whole show. If international team there must be change of men. Japanese or British came down and Austrians go up. I was in very good condition and Leo also. Schloemmer: on whole expedition: "I waited several days in C3, but Don Whillans said Sherpas up no room for you" about 8-9 May from C4. Axt: JOMR was good organizer with Sherpas to base and through icefall, but from C2 up lack of good authority. Whillans later made climbing leader after Evans sick and went down. If there was good organizer on the face, Axt could have succeeded; only lack was no coordinator in C2 to say who could go up and down. Don Whillans never came down, always in highest camp; perhaps they thought they only man in good condition and others not fit. I don't know, I never talked with them, never saw them. I was never on the face." Axt waited at C2 from 5 May to go up and on 13th said Ok come up, but Japanese went up instead and again no rook. After much time at that height not doing anything, much deteriorated. Japanese worked very hard carrying loads and tried themselves out, but British never carried anything but own personal gear, always looking for route. I tried to have a change [on the face] and I tried to go on face but had no chance defection result of poor Dyhrenfurth diplomacy. Should have let them go up via South Col and if they failed then fault not leader's fault. Leader intention was to get 2 men to top by face. Failure "for expedition and for leader its a pity. It didn't have to happen it there had been good coordinator." Learned of failure at Pheriche. If I stayed with Bah I could cry but maybe nobody hear and I lose all my toes and fingers. I couldn't pull him, rescuers tried to pull him. "What should I do? one hour later and I am frozen." After traverse I couldn't wait at end of traverse because stream of snow had to go further across then after some wait "I could not go up; again my fingers stiff and could not go on rope down. I had to go down to get fresh men." I think he lost his nerve on the traverse." He had all his warm clothing in his rucksack. I don't like the face, it's a very dangerous route and in Austria I tell my wife I will not go on face; then when leader says only face route, Ok I go". Isles & Teigland - 23 May 71 Arrive Lansenger 8000m today and reached KTM this afternoon. Walked from Khumjung; left base 8 May with Dyhrenfurth. Left because of illness and Dr. Steele ordered them to leave so others would not catch it. Steele afraid of complications. Isles - those who had mononucleosis very weak and could not go above C1. Isles big mystery is how it got started." 3 days at Khumjung; saw Dr. Lang to take blood sample but did not stay in hospital. Had planned to return to expedition after few days and Evans did, but others did not feel well and did not return. Isles had pneumonia and lung partially collapsed; got sick early April. 6 members had mononucleosis but not Isles. Isles got to C3 on face May 1st and Teigland to 7000m just below C3 on ridge day before Bah's death. Isles found breathing worse and worse when up high so down to base 3 May; neither Norwegian agreed with defectors statement. South Col not possible this expedition because only 2 ridgers not ill. "Would not have been a walk up as of then said. They talked of 10 days and I don't think that possible when only 2 left who wouldn't carry loads; also there was avalanche danger which had to wait out and then icy Lhotse Face which would have taken time consuming fixed rope; doubt they were strong enough to do it alone; we had enough Sherpas on Ridge." Isles: storm was very decisive in whole thing; before storm organization hadn't worked out smoothly yet and storm's delay threw off and Sherpas again had to supply lower camps again; these so about South Col had ones who cancelled Ridge but if had been patient organization would have improved and Sherpas available at upper camps and might have been able climb via ridge. Isles: failure it's a great shame of cause; all this effort went into this, especially on part of Dyhrenfurth who has got to live with the debts. Teigland: spirit went out of same West Ridge team when decided to shift to Col. "I dreamed for 2 years of West Ridge." Isles: afraid of face only one thing I came away regretting; decision in highly emotional moment after Bahuguna's death to cancel West Ridge. "Was great mistake." "Shows what is personalities of members" and Teigland their values they have. "Fact that international had nothing to do with it." Isles had heard rumours expedition had succeeded; if was going to fail thought would be weather. Not really shocked to learn failed; when left Khumjung "thought it was a toss up." Both certainly hope to return to Nepal; before Everest again some smaller peak in smaller party of Canada, USA and Norway. JOMR Ito Uemura presumed be at C4 or C5 assisting Sherpas carrying loads to C5, possibly as far as C6; possibility if Japanese making 2nd summit attempt are nil but Japanese have done work 2nd to none including but plain without their assistance Whillans and Haston could not make summit. Sato may be able to Uemura at base on 24 or 25th assuming summit by 22nd. 17 May 71 - from Roberts am C6 not yet actually slept in although way preferred and some stones Site is at 27,000 feet on right of face at top right end of right arm of Y couloir. The rock band has yet to be climbed but at least weather is fine. Dyhrenfurth - 17 May 71 I am still 100% optimistic that we will have a success which is after all the best answer to criticism because this after all is what we set out to do; even if only one man reaches the top will have been success. Not quanity irrelevant but hope gaps British, Austrians and even Sherpas if weather reports are accurate that it will improve chances are very very good. I'm only sorry I have to leave but this Dr's order and were 2 leaders. Dyhrenfurth - 16 May 71 Kohli criticism its based on faulty information. Bahuguna and Axt did not run out of rope but as Axt said in his statement knowing fixed rope had been placed, then knowingly left rope behind. Dyhrenfurth said "very proud man" but did not say he "overly ambitious." "He wanted do well for his country and pushed himself hard, perhaps too hard." re Axt should not have left Bah but should have gone back to look." "There I agree with him (Kholi) but it's easy to judge after the event." Dyhrenfurth - 13 May 71 Very difficult expedition, the most difficult of 6 Himalayan expedition I been on; weather very bad; worst climb: icefall most difficult and dangerous I have ever seen it. Began to consider alternate route: Nuptse shoulder. Didn't want another accident like last year's. Japanese worked to find safest route but almost every day something collapsed. On mountain very icy: in 1963 West Ridge approach snow slopes but this year blue green ice - for more fixed ropes needed - very tragic death of because on way up to C2 lost his voice replying to Bah's call; by time rescuers reached him "all but dead." West Ridgers wanted to give up that route because of Bah's death. Axt and Isles still wanted Ridge; Vauchers at first undecided, but swayed by Mazeaud to abandon ridge and try Col by which 23 men have reached summit. JOMR and 1 had in planning decided would not do Col but 2 new routes; so when Ridgers voted for Col, I was disappointed but said reluctantly I would support them, but at C2 Sherpas and sahib came to me and it obvious at C2 thought it too late in season (stating when AMME on summit). Let's concentrate on one route only, so Dhyrenfurth decided to suspend operations on Col and consulted JOMR. Asked JOMR to make decision and Roberts discussed with Sirdar Sonam Girme who said Sherpas all in favour of route; had several times invited them to join face; no plots; they were invited and reasons of their own perhaps they felt others younger and stronger had better chance; beneath dignity to climb others ropes not valid because this done all time in Alps. Contract unfullfillment charges by defectors nonsense because Paragraph I of contract says members will obey leaders on routes and approach, so very clear they did not abide by contract. We did all we could: $8500/man cost totalling $250,000 without salary Dyhrenfurth so very disappointed. Despite all these setbacks, we were hit by virus of mononucleosis and my conviction it was carried in by unwanted visitors and this great danger to big expeditions; people we don't know (including hippies) expecting to be fed; this one of first expeditions where leader has to leave expedition before its finished. In spite of this we still have 7 or 8 men and strong Sherpas. Haston established C5 26,000 ft and Whillans saw route and if we have little luck with weather will make it; slightly to right of directissima. Haston and Whillans certainly among 10 outstanding climbers of world. Also Uemura and Ito very strong. 2 Austrians and Peterson (at C2 and carried to C3) hope Evans can still play a part; went back to base on 11 May and he is trying; is strong. bad weather sickness bad conditions defections Will make it. Defections not dishonourable but I'm disappointed. Miss Vaucher very ambitious to be first woman on Everest; Mauri a hero past his prime and Everest summit could make him bigger hero; Mazeaud's polished career not harmed by summit. Oxygen 6-7 hours/bottle vs Hamburg 3-1/2 hours; might make it from C5 without another camp with this in 1970 Japanese got to 26,000 ft only, but couldn't find camp site to go higher. Haston and Whillans found site slightly over to right. Sherpas not just employees; treated them as equals and opinions valuable. South Col route's C3 only establish would have taken at least 4 weeks to reach summit. Internationalism not the problem we faced. Cooperation good until this thing happened; was because of personality, variety, ego; on whole experiment very successful: e.g., on icefall. Vaucher threw rocks at his tent because she was so angry. Many unpleasant things I could say, but I don't think it in good taste. Mauri told Eliassen (who never authorized 4 defectors to quote him) about Nevada ski binding and after ski lotion to summit for photography. Himalayan mountain should not be commercialized in this way. Vaucher not in C2 for vote and went down to base because of leg pain and thought to be out of climbing. Axt sick, Isles didn't want col, 2 Norwegians voted to support face. I reserve right to sue on libel and contract, if they continue to spread stories. Will probably think over Pres International Mt Federation Albert. Experiment in International that was only partially successful, after all UN has tried for good long time and not done too well. Followed Japanese route, C3 at same platform; fixed ropes to C4 and again Japanese platform. Then at 26,000 ft rock face start where Japanese unable to go higher, but route still as close to directissima as can be under conditions of this year. If weather not so bad and Axt's feet not getting so cold maybe he could have been served; he very ambitious (had not been able to get to summit in 1965) and very strong but didn't admit to his climbing companion how tired he was. On 5 Apr at C2 Norman told him to go down to rest; Bahuguna said was tired and would go down after putting up C3 with Axt. If Axt had known how tired he was, Axt surely would have roped together. Axt misunderstood Bah's having hand signal which Axt thought meant Ok. Whillans sure all rescuers would have died if they had not left Bahuguna as and when they did. Roberts to Cheney - 12 May 71 Norm 1) Gary ex-Lukla 13 Howell, Isles, 2 Norwegians on foot about 23 May (leaving now). Provided summit is not later than 16 May, hope to send 4 on 19 May ex-Lukla and 2 on helicopter 18 May. 2 BBC will walk out leaving total of 13 including 2 woman (Mrs Haston and Kathy Watts). Arrive KTM 3 May and left on 5th to BC. Could clear these 13 in 3 flights ex-Lukla between 25-27 May (2 flights additional). Roberts - 10 May News from above is very scanty and optimism grows and dies. I think the game must be settled one way or the other within one week. Mazeuad - 7 May We asked Nepal permission to come back to Nepal in private expedition to realize goal to climb Everest. Vaucher Sherpa went down to meet Dyhrenfurth on 18th; very lucky otherwise might have been 2nd tragedy; one man alone in bad weather very dangerous. Took 1 hour to reach Bahuguna at about 6 pm; died about 6-6:30 pm. On 22nd down to C1 because no food in C2. 24th we went to bring down Bahuguna to C2; after Bahuguna's death and having seen organization not good because lack of food and now 24-25 April and at C2 14 Sherpas but only 4 for ridge. We realize JOMR supports climb by face. Many Ridgers at C2 and discuss this and we think we should go via South Col which is easier and which will allow us to go to the summit. Isles and Axt for ridge. Sirdar and Tiegland by radio said would follow majority decision. Dyh moved Vaucher coordinator for South Col. In beginning Dyh not happy about change of route, but once it taken he said he would help: I know the col very well and I will tell you where to go. On 24th 4 went to establish C3 7150m with 3 Sherpas. Mazeaud Discussed would put C4 7600m on col where AMME had some camp when Dyhrenfurth 5 pm said the face climbers was hoping all strength would be put to climb face and this problem could be discussed at dinner. At dinner something strange: Dyhrenfurth asked only facers their opinion and obvious facers would consider South Col should not be continued. Colers tried to resist this decision hoping they would ask all Colers for their opinion; this not done: Dyhrenfurth decided by votes of only facers. Mazeaud and Mauri decided go down to base camp with others. Colers on 28th. Vaucher Mazeaud and Mauri arrives completely demoralized at Vaucher's base camp. Vaucher tried to discuss and support Colers but Dyhrenfurth said not I who decided this: all Sherpas decided to go on Face. Vaucher said Dyhrenfurth hired Sherpas and JOMR now at Gorak Shep and Dyhrenfurth said must wait JOMR's return. When he came back and 2 leaders talked 1/2 hour and JOMR said all Sherpas are for the face. If you don't want to go on the face you have to go home. Yvette Vaucher This decision truly inhuman to decide like, this monstrous to decide like this. To climb highest mountain of world something everyone dreams about to go easier way because we are surer to reach the summit. If we want to do very difficult climb we can as well stay in Europe. I think reputations of Michel, Pierre and Carlo don't need to come here to give them better reputation. Alpinism is friendly sport, not like football where we have to fight morally. They have harmed us very badly and this cannot be repaired. Here at once I lose Everest and all the friends. Mazeaud Profound motivation of Dyhrenfurth who acts like this. We are not rebels but our only aim was to reach the summit of Everest. This motivation brought us here. Dyhrenfurth agreed with this as at Thyangboche he impressed us those have not personal ambitions to reach summit should go here, but in fact we now believe Dyhrenfurth prevented us to reach summit. So we must find reasons: this time when we have chosen the good, there were 2 conceptions of climbing: which have been in opposition classical amongst those on Ridge and more modern amongst those on face. I note that Alpine climbers were those who held classic conception while the Anglo held the modern conception. Japanese were on the face tried by contact. Tokyo paper and and Dyhrenfurth for the true reason preventing us from going to summit was if we had reached summit by S Col before face group, public camps and press would be no longer interested by face route. For example, if Yvette reached summit by col, this first woman in the world to reach summit. Public opinion no longer interested in what is happening on the face. What Yvette did much more important to press than what they did on face. To me essential motivation of facers with Dyhrenfurth and JOMR was to prevent us to reach summit. If this group has reached summit: 1st Italian 1st French 1st Norwegian 1st Pole to reach the summit. And there's no more interest for face route. Others motivations to be seen as defamatory Dyhrenfurth published: Dyhrenfurth considers we are incompetent and our departures guarantee expedition's success. Why he chose us? Not necessary to give you our record; he said personal and political reasons have driven us to join; why has he chosen us? If we 4 hope of success of expedition for the members, we don't hesitate to say that we reserve all our flights, the leader of the expedition. The program was for 2 routes and leaders agreed to modification but by canceling one, they don't respect their contract anymore. Vaucher JOMR drunk ordered Sherpas to remove Mazeaud by force. Sherpas did not move and at end shake hands with Mazeaud and said they were sorry. Criticism of organization: lack of Sherpas. Mazeaud: planning. Harsh Bahaguna worked enormously previous days to his death. At this altitude. It is good to rest frequently. Vaucher We did not go to face because our motivation was to go to summit. On face we could just be porters for Haston and Williams. There and expect to main and myself that we were not climbers worthy to go to face. S Col too easy and should help on face. Hiebeler - 27 April 71 Was 12 days in C2, and then down to rest at basecamp and on this day Bahaguna died at 7200m coming down to C1 and next day received news which made him very sad. Has been 32 years in mountain and never saw accident, not even broken arm. 2-3 days in KTM and then to Munich or him details of death not important. Harsh his best friend on expedition. West Ridge climbers abandon ad shift to South Col route. Decision 21 April after Bahaguna death. On ridge too difficult for time available. Michel Vaucher now leader of S Col team and Yvette waits him on S Col. Hiebeler reached maximum 7000m on face; all other members or thinks too late to climb to sumit by face. Need 3 weeks just for 8000-8400m on face. 1 Week to reach 8000m and more 2-3 days from 8400m to summit to summit; total 5 weeks and monsoon coming 20 May just possible by S Col. Shyam - 26 April Body [of Bahaguna] will arrive Camp about 3:00 26 April. Roberts left base for G about 10:30 26 April. Tiegland left base for Lukla early am 25 April. H. B. Gurung now in base from C1 but Sayle not yet at base. From IHE - 25 April To Pranto For Indian embassy regret most unlikely cremation possible 27th April in which case ashes felt. 29th April unlikely. Await further news 26th April. Kelly - 19 April 3000 ft close site original American camp. Await details from leader whom arrives base day or day after. Sayle at present at camp are - pass prefall summiters also BBC London for news editor newscasts ps4 C3 West establish 3 days ago. Recce Adv party nearly top icefall 25th March. Haston Whillans Mauri Uemura 28th am Steele says having trouble with huge crevasses near icefall top. 28th pm Roberts says work in icefall continues not yet possible establish C1. 29th March In icefall. At first Haston and Whillans down for acclimatization (flow in) so Schloemmer took his place. Vaucher inspection - asked Axt and Bahuguna to find safer route which they did, then Eliassen and Teigland perished almost to top of icefall; stopped by crevasse passed by same climbers notabely Haston, but much work left to make it safe. 5 March Expedition at Changma and remaining there are unscheduled day because of desertation of porters, naikes and snow and rain. 7 March Tonight at Junbesi Mar 9 Night at Kharikhola Mar 11 Night at Phakding Mar 13-15th nights at Thyangboche Mar 16-20th Night at Pheriche 21st night at Lobjue 22nd night at Gorashep 1963 Everest traverse started new chapter in Himalayas climbing history: here all climb of major Himalayan peaks by easiest route. Japanese tried SW Face 1970 but reached 26,000 ft only and defeated by falling rock from poor snow conditions. Since 1958 tried in Alps, now in Himalayas. 1) climb SW Face and West Ridge "pure mountaineering on tough new routes." 2) experiment - understand and cooperations amoung many nations - 13 in this expeditions. 3) physiological research. SW Face perhaps more dangerous route - more objective danger. West Ridge longer, more exposed to northwest winds so famous on Everest; same near vertical pitches. If not successful on SW Face directissima, face might traverse onto Ridge. 1st expedition to Everest ex-Nepal not going by easiest route at all; will not attempt South Col route at all. Neither leader has summit ambition: "We are two old men of the team." Best age for high altitude climbing is 33 years old. More mature men not so apt to get pulmonary edema, more in getting along with others even at high altitudes lack of oxygen. "I believe in the yeti," but don't expect to see on with a big expedition. Yvette "capable of reaching summit." One of best woman mountaineers in world; technically capable of reaching the top ,but don't know how she'll acclimatize for has never been at such high altitudes; will be on West Ridge with husband. South Buttress route is possible; not so difficult as face but is difficult; if this expedition succeeds on face, next Everest party may want to try buttress. 300 porters already gone with loads and daily Islanders flights to Lukla. Another 300 porters with team leave 28th. About 150 loads left to leave on 2nd total of 1000 porter loads. Bigger expedition and lot of BBC baggage. Reach Pheriche for acclimatization and sorting gear in 14 days from 28th so 13 March. About a week at Pheriche and then 2 days onto base. Meanwhile route to base camp will be opened and 21st March established. By nearly April route through icefall (temporary route anyway) will be opened. Hope to have all of May for summit assaults. Members include LO. Norman Dyhrenfurth - 21 Feb 71 South Face route as expected now but west of Japanese route; hope to minimize falling rock and hope to keep straight. South face C3 24,500 feet C4 26,000 feet C5 27,600-27,700 ft Ridge same as AMME C3 below crest of ridge 23,500 ft C4 end of long snow ridge 24,500 ft C5 on ridge 26,000 ft C6 on ridge 27,700 ft No plan to use South Col at all; has been done. If face no go, will do W Ridge all along. Prepare high camps on W Ridge and potential summiters go down and do all way through quickly from base via Lho La and W Shoulder to prepared ridge camps starting with an internal camp between C3 W and C4 W. Maybe biv 1st right below in shoulder and then on to C4 West or intermediary camp. This would be new route an longest route on Everest. Avoids Khumbu Icefall but has even more objective danger of icefalls and avalanches but fast strong climbers could get through early am before sun loosens things. 300 porters leave 25th members leave on 27th. Rest of baggage 25 leaves on 3 March, 100 porters. Drive to Lamosangu and 300 more porters. Austrian mountain type - can also be used for equipment. 4 hard pitches: 1 perhaps on ridge and 2-3 on face. Each much has 800m steel cable and 400m thinner wire rope. Great deal of ironware: pitons, ice screws, expansion bolts for face. Oxygen equipment: cylinders US made, heavier than French but hold more oxygen. Main break through is Blume system with diluter-demand system (also open circuit). Can set at equivalent of certain altitudes. Has no need for breathing bag. Dyhrenfurth - 18 Feb 71 Cleare, Howell and Jerzy Surdel of BBC team all potential summiters. Best climbers: Michel Vaucher Whillans Haston Schloemmer Would like to see 6 men to top from each route (2 at a time) hopes to get to C4 West himself. JOMR to advance base. Uemura Would like Crown Prince to visit expedition in early April or end of May. Dyh - USA Mauri (Italy) Haston (British) Vaucher Vaucher Steele (British) Hiebeler Axt - W Ridge climbing leader Peterson (USA) Schloemmer (Austria) Eliassen (Norway) [David Isles dropped out] Sayles Norman Dyrenfurth - 16 Feb 71 After the last time I thought that was it for me, then after home very empty and looking for real challenge and this was it. These 2 routes the most difficult route of Everest; hope to be in position to make assault after May 1 for favorable weather. West Ridge - 6 high camps South Face - 5 high camps 10 days at 14,000 ft at Pheriche acclimatization and practice climbs from March 10-19 and then onto base. Ideal altitude for acclimatization and away others so can work peacefully. Simultaneous attacks via both routes - perhaps up via one route down other. Last camp 27,800 ft on West Ridge 8500m. Base as usual 17,800 ft. C2 = advance base from which routes split, thus 3 camps on face above advance base. Japanese failed because so little snow that rock was loose. Hope this year more snow so rock frozen in place. Extremely strong team, strongest team ever to Everest. 2 members did S Face Annapurna and that most difficult accomplishment so far; not had enough to predict. Success because Khumbu icefall can act up, weather can be against us, avalanche rockfall on face, but given same luck in all these things team has excellent chances of success. Dyhrenfurth International 1955 Brun Spirig (Swiss) skied from 20,000 ft top of icefall to base camp with taking off skis once. 1963 skied up West Cwn from top of icefall to 23,000 ft and skied whole W Cwm. Japanese skiers didn't discuss with Dyhrenfurth at base concerning route skiing doubt its from summit: too steep, too many rocks sticking out. Lhotse face is skiable: many slopes in Alps have been skied. Couloir is skiable if have strength at that altitude and if have proper oxygen equipment but danger from falling ice and stone but from only 20 couloir not altitude records since Stermberger's Cho Oyu is from higher. JAC climbing leader when met at base camp last north (16th James burial = 22nd met JAC) said had gone to 7500m and were not trying directissima but go to right up south buttress. If they do south buttress Dyhrenfurth's and JOMR's IHE 1971 will try directissima. Hope to have 1 or 2 Russians included, including 1 woman. Norm took good look at South face with glasses from Kala Pattar. Crevasse at top of West Cwm = bergschrund On 27 Feb 69 JOM Roberts wrote American and British ambassadors that his and Norman Dyhrenfurth's Everest expeditions are to be combined: one International (chiefly USA and British) expedition to South Face of Everest in spring 1971, with Roberts and Dyhrenfurth as Joint leaders. Dhaulagiri II expedition of Roberts postponed from fall of 1969 to spring of 1970. Most members to be in Everest attempt of 1971. Kellas briefly informed Khanal of above on 4 March 69.
Accidents 1 member died of exhaustion, exposure and frostbite
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443153
Year 1971
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w cwm-w ridge (to 7300m)

Members

33 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Norman Guenter Dyhrenfurth M 1918 USA/Switzerland Leader Santa Monica, California Film-maker Details Other expeditions
James Owen Merion Roberts M 1916 UK Leader Kathmandu Retired British Gurkha officer, proprietor of trek organization Details Other expeditions
Harsh Vardhan Bahuguna M 1939 India Climber (W Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Axt M 1935 Austria Climber (W Ridge) St. Johann, Tirol, Austria - Details Other expeditions
Frederick Duane Blume M 1933 USA Physiologist Bakersfield, California Physiologist Details Other expeditions
John S. Cleare M 1936 UK Cameraman London, England Photographer & writer Details Other expeditions
Gary Colliver M - USA Climber (SW Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Odd Eliassen M 1944 Norway Climber (W Ridge) Oksfjord, Norway Builder Details Other expeditions
John P. Evans M 1938 USA Climber (SW Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Dougal Haston M 1942 UK Climber (SW Face) Leysin, Vaud, Switzerland Director of International School of Mountaineering, Leysin Details Other expeditions
Anton (Toni) Hiebeler M 1930 W Germany Climber (SW Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Ian F. (Pin) Howell M 1936 UK Film Team Blandford, Dorset, England BBC sound technician Details Other expeditions
David Isles M - USA Climber (W Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Brian Ned Kelly M 1934 UK Film Team Bristol, Avon, England BBC assistant film producer Details Other expeditions
Reizo Ito M - Japan Climber (SW Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Carlo Mauri M 1930 Italy Climber (W Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Pierre Mazeaud M 1929 France Climber (W Ridge) Paris, France - Details Other expeditions
David Peterson M - USA Exp Doctor (SW Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Leo Schloemmer M - Austria Climber (SW Face) - - Details Other expeditions
Peter R. C. Steele M 1935 USA Exp Doctor (W Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Ian Stuart M 1931 UK Cameraman Bakewell, Midlands, England BBC cameraman Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Surdel M - Poland Cameraman Krakow, Poland Television film director Details Other expeditions
Jon Tiegland M 1944 Norway Climber (W Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Antony Thomas M - UK BBC Producer - - Details Other expeditions
Naomi Uemura M 1941 Japan Climber (SW Face) Kinosaki-gun, Hyogo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Michel Vaucher M 1936 Switzerland Climber (W Ridge) Geneva, Switzerland - Details Other expeditions
Yvette Vaucher F - Switzerland Climber (W Ridge) - - Details Other expeditions
Donald Desbrow (Don) Whillans M 1933 UK Climber (SW Face) Rossendale, Lancashire, England Lecturer on mountaineering; plumber Details Other expeditions
Sonam Girme Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Bill Kurban M - UK Film Team - BBC sound technician Details Other expeditions
Murray Sayle M - Australia Reporter - - Details Other expeditions
Arthur Chesterman M 1941 UK Film Team Twickenham, London, England BBC sound technician Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

22 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER71101 AAJ Dyhrenfurth, Norman G. Everest Revisited: The International Himalayan Exped 1971 - 46:7-20 (1972) -
EVER71101 HJ Dyhrenfurth, Norman G. Everest Revisited: The International Himalayan Exped 1971 - 31:19-32 (1971) -
EVER71101 HJ Wilson, Ken & Pearson, Mike Post-Mortem of an International Expedition - 31:33-83 (1971) -
EVER71101 HJ Wilson, Ken Questionable Conclusions in Everest Film - 31:64-87 (1971) -
EVER71101 AJ Cleare, John Thirteen Nations on Mount Everest - 77:9-20 (1972) -
EVER71101 AJ Sayle, Murray Everest - A Reporter's View - 77:116-125 (1972) -
EVER71101 - Steele, Peter Doctor on Everest Hodder & Stoughton, London - S706
EVER71101 - Hiebeler, Toni Abenteur Everest Albert Muller, Zurich - H308
EVER71101 MM - - - 14:5 (Mar 1971) -
EVER71101 MM - - - 15:7 (May 1971) -
EVER71101 MM - - - 16:6 (Jul 1971) -
EVER71101 MM Wilson, Ken & Pearson, Mike Post-Mortem of an International Expedition - 17:10-29 (Sep 1971) -
EVER71101 - Schloemmer Meine Welt, Die Berge Styria, Graz, Austria - S154
EVER71101 - Haston, Dougal In High Places Macmillan, New York - H132
EVER71101 - Mazeaud, Pierre Naked Before the Mountain Gollancz, London - M250
EVER71101 - Nickel, Andreas Himalaya, Norman Dyhrenfurth AS Verlag, Zurich - -
EVER71101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197200700/Everest-Revisted-The-International-Himalayan-Expedition-1971 - - -
EVER71101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/3/everest-revisited-the-international-himalayan-expedition-1971/ - - -
EVER71101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/4/post-mortem-of-an-international-expedition/ - - -
EVER71101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/5/questionable-conclusions-in-everest-film/ - - -
EVER71101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1972_files/AJ%201972%209-20%20Cleare%20Everest.pdf - - -
EVER71101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1972_files/AJ%201972%20116-125%20Sayle%20Everest.pdf - - -