Everest | 1970 S Col (skiing)

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1970 via S Col (skiing), led by Yuichiro Muira. Summit reached on 6th May 1970. 42 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2485
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER70101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1970
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col (skiing)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yuichiro Muira
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1970-03-23
Summit Date 1970-05-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 44
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 14
Termination Notes Miura skied down from 8100m to South Col to set high altitude skiing record (did not try for summit)
High Point (m) 8100
Traverse False
Ski True
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 34
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 6
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Pokalde (POKA-701-01)
Campsites BC(23/03,5350m),C1(04/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6450m),C3(18/04,6950m),C4(26/04,7400m),C5(27/04,7985m),xxx(06/05,8100m)
Route Notes Miura and 4 today - more tomorrow. Main caravan leaves Namche today to KTM. 5th night spent on South Col camp - slept well 8 hours on oxygen. On 6th had breakfast of Japanese fish, seaweed, Indian left Ovaltine. Collected oxygen tanks and parachute, skis (filed edges very sharp) helmet. Had to file and check all equipments in tent because wind so strong. 1 hr doing check and filing. Left tent at 9:00 made stone within which placed mirror because mountain is a lady so peak she can see herself. Also turned with his name signatures and names of fall members and 2 Sherpas, flags of Nepal and Japanese and Expo 1970. At South Col: Kato Yasuhisa Otaki Miura Ishiguro Girme Dorje Ang Pemba Finished Cairn in 30 minutes - done without oxygen also without oxygen put on equipment climbed 250m higher above South Col because good snow and wanted to ski down to South Col. Did ski from 8150m to S Col in 30 seconds in 5 turns in normal alpine skiing, snow condition excellent. Kato and Girme Dorje made starting spot below Geneva Spur, about 200m distance not altitude below South Col; came down by fixed rope since no snow and reached about 11:30 am. Amma vice leader at control center in 6800m Western Cwm with 7-page check list, but telemeter checked hero helmet strap, oxygen took valve; took almost hour complete check list. After check complete 30 seconds silent wait; also had reputation of wind and other condition favor from several camps with wind dying from 7900m altitude at 1:07 hours. Skiing slope correct length being checked now by scientists. First skiing: started slightly 30m east because wind coming from South Face; waiting for no wind condition. At 1:07 began; 5 or 6 seconds about 160 km hour speed about 200m distance from start, opened parachute (drag chute - stabilizer found inadequate). Parachute cut speed half so at 60-80/km/hr; then reached narrow spot where was great air turbulence; about 30 secs after start, realized slope narrowed by rocks; both slopes and from South Face one wind and another friend from Lhotse and winds tangled and made whirling. In this wind he skied 1 minute with alternate no parachute drag and then some drag. So to check breaking by ski edge but almost no effect (this also in this one minute). At entrance of Geneva Spur side and slope avalanche 40 degree. After passing narrow area, ice became very wavey and shifted direction slightly towards Everest South Face and noticed maybe to control speed very difficult; also noticed fallen rocks scattered about. So hit small stone and fell over after having skied 2 minutes 5-10 secs. Lost control and started skidding downwards. Hit rock at 7200m; fell down 100m towards crevasse and after 100m right ski fell off and he hit huge rock which slowed speed and after another nearly 200m and nearly unconscious. Found had stopped at about 150m before crevasse. Crevasse at narrowest 10 meters, but last year 2-3m; so this year could not have jumped crevasse and planned stop at crevasse and fixed rope fixed there and members there to help stop him. No pain when stopped, had padded life jacket and helmet. While skidding believed 99% would not survive. Believed had succeeded but lost life in process. To ski down from South Col is not just skiing but gamble with life; had skied almost all of expected 2:25. Could not get up: on ice and had only one ski; waved one ski pole to signal he's Ok. This his well-known fuj, and signal he's Ok. Slowly tried to bend over to remove left ski to used it to prevent more slipping. Meanwhile friends at crevasse and Mr Soga reached him after 20-30 minutes cutting steps with ice axe and made small space next to Miura while Miura getting off parachute which used as mattresses where Miura sat for nearly 45 minutes 1 hour while members fixed rope. Six Sherpas killed with Japanese skiers 5 April 70: Nima Norbu 42 Nima Dorji 25 Tsering Tarkey 50 Pasang 44 Kunga Norbu 33 Kami Tsering, porter 45 Miura - 5 March 70 20 member left yesterday for Lamosangu and waiting there now; 12 leave today for Lamosangu. All tomorrow am leave on foot; reach base about 28 March. Miura agrees Dyhrenfurth may be correct about above South Col and only "50-50" chance above South Col down - above South Col strong wind, very steep and rock out cropping from South Col down. "Hard to say" about success because truth regarding high altitudes effect on decision making and control. Special life jacket while skiing down protecting chest; 5 inches thick to protect very tough nylon chest. Fiberglass helmet with earphones and microphone in oxygen mask. Talk to 3 stations (advance base camp and 2 stations in course) telling of winds direction and strength and snow conditions, his speed. From South Col steepest nearly 40 degrees to be started after 6 sec at 180 Km/hr - 200m of this 40 degrees and so 7 seconds after start 200 km/hr. Miura's fastest ever done 172 km/hr Italian CERVINIA (Mattenham glacier) 1964, so if Miura does 180 Km/hr will actually break world record. After 5 sec start will try pull cord on 1 parachute to prevent self going over 180/km by 6 sec. Red smoke will come from behind each ski boot making red trail to show progress (and weather fallen into crevasse). Japanese Ski Expedition - 25 Feb 70 24 arrive today 8 already here in Nepal) (including 1 in Birgunj) 1 Ishihara arrive 28 some leave KTM 2 March most including Miura and Kato 3rd Tadano and Miura to the ski: same day following each 10 Km in 3 minutes. Japanese fiberglass ski and oxygen and 3 different parachutes (stabilizers of different size). End of April to do skiing. Kato of JSEE - 16 Feb 70 1 other member K. Yasuhisa arrived Staying Shanker now; when others came on 23 Feb, move to house next to Japanese embassy 32 members to base - Shintaro Ishihara only to Kodari Road 23 Feb - 2 members, 2 journalists and Kato again arrive 27 members including Miura and Ishihara will take film of wedding. Leave KTM 3-5 March with 700 coolies from Kodari Road (baggage arrrive CCU part yesterday and here 26 or 27 Feb). Expect reach base camp about 25-28 March with at least 3 days acclimatization at Thyangboche. Maximum 2 months skiing and filming on Everest; if all goes well, 45 days sufficient. 2 skiers only Muira and Tadano for skiing down very small oxygen cylinders; same as used by US jet fighters pilots for emergency use if ejection necessary - skier will need 3 cylinders size of tall beer bottle. Miura or Tadano will try reach 8500m and ski down as much as possible, to 6100m hopefully (6100m south C1 at top of icefall); on unbroken ski 8500m to South Col; rest at South Col; ski to 6800m of Lhotse Face; at least 1 day rest. 7 movie cameras 75m cinemascope. Not bringing computer, too costly and too heavy. Telemetering of speed to control center in Western Cwm at C3 (6700m).
Accidents 6 Sherpas killed in Khumbu Icefall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2442773
Year 1970
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col (skiing)

Members

42 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yuichiro Miura M 1932 Japan Ski Team Leader - President of Miura Ski Operation Details Other expeditions
Yukihiko Kato M 1933 Japan Deputy Leader Aichi, Japan Manager of JESE Details Other expeditions
So Anma M 1936 Japan Deputy Leader Shizuoka, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Tomio Saeki M 1929 Japan Support Climber Toyama, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Hisashi Ishiguro M 1945 Japan Support Climber Niigata, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Noriaki Soga M 1942 Japan Support Climber Nagoya, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Masato Hashimoto M 1937 Japan Medical Team Hokkaido, Japan Physician, Hokkaido University Details Other expeditions
Isao Zeniya M 1933 Japan Movie Team - Executive staff of Ishihara International Production Details Other expeditions
Masaru Otaki M 1942 Japan Movie Team - Movie-photographer of Ishihara International Production Details Other expeditions
Mitsuji Kanau M 1933 Japan Movie Team Japan Chief cameraman of Ishihara International Production Details Other expeditions
Ryo Yano M 1943 Japan Movie Team Japan Movie-photographer of Ishihara International Production Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Kawamoto M 1934 Japan Movie Team - Movie-photographer of Ishihara International Production Details Other expeditions
Takatoshi Inoue M 1947 Japan Support Climber - Student at Hokkaido University Details Other expeditions
Wataru Saeki M 1946 Japan Support Climber - Staff member of Toyamaken Moutaineering Rescue team Details Other expeditions
Eiichi Yamamoto M 1929 Japan Reporter Team Tokyo, Japan Staff writer of The Yomiuri Shimbun, Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Seisei Ajisaka M 1933 Japan Reporter Team Tokyo, Japan Staff photographer of The Yomiuri Shimbun, Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Oba M 1945 Japan Support Climber Nagano, Japan Member of staff of Marushima Shoten Co. Details Other expeditions
Kimihiro Shimada M 1937 Japan Reporter Team - Staff writer of The Yomiuri Shimbun, Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Taisuke Fujishima M 1933 Japan General Manager Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan Writer Details Other expeditions
Tomio Motoyama M 1931 Japan Medical Team - Assistant professor of Institute of Adaptation, Shinshu Univ Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Kimura M 1948 Japan Movie Team Yokohama, Japan Assistant cameraman of Ishihara International Production Details Other expeditions
Kikumatsu Souda M 1942 Japan Movie Team Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan Assistant movie cameraman of Ishihara International Production Details Other expeditions
Atsumi Nakahara M 1937 Japan Movie Team Japan Assistant director of Ishihara International Production Details Other expeditions
Mitsuaki Nishigori M 1939 Japan Medical Team - Physician, Okaya Health Office Details Other expeditions
Akio Sakai M 1942 Japan Medical Team - Assistant of Institute of Adaptation, Shinshu University Details Other expeditions
Shintaro Ishihara M 1932 Japan Leader - General commander of JESE Details Other expeditions
Nima Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Tshering Tarke Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kunga Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kami Tsering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Yuko Yoda M - Japan Support Climber Japan Dentist Details Other expeditions
Yasunori Hirota M 1943 Japan Support Climber Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Hironori Yamada M - Japan Support Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Naotaka Tadano M 1945 Japan Ski Team Hirakata, Osaka, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Kazunari Yasuhisa M 1938 Japan Photo Team Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Hiroji Tanaka M - Japan Scientific Team Japan - Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Fujise M - Japan Scientific Team Japan - Details Other expeditions
Akira Kotani M - Japan Photo Team Japan - Details Other expeditions
Girme Dorje Sherpa M 1935 Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Pema Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER70101 AAJ - - - 45:434 (1971) -
EVER70101 - Miura, Yuichiro & Perlman, Eric The Man Who Skied Down Everest Harper & Row, San Francisco - M438
EVER70101 - Miura, Yuichiro & Kotani, Akira Everest, Yuichiro Muira & Japanese Everest Skiing Expedition Bungeishunju, Tokyo - jN104
EVER70101 MM - - - 10:6 (Jul 1970) -
EVER70101 - Miura, Yuichiro Skiing on Mt. Everest Bungei, Tokyo - jM64
EVER70101 - Bungei-shunju Yuichiro Miura: Skiing on Everest Bungei-shunju, Tokyo - -
EVER70101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143401/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Ski-Expedition - - -