Everest | 1969 SW Face (recon)

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1969 via SW Face (recon), led by Hideki Miyashita. Summit reached on 31st October 1969. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2497
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER69301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1969
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face (recon)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hideki Miyashita
Sponsor Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1969-09-16
Summit Date 1969-10-31
Summit Time -
Summit Days 45
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1969-11-04
Termination Reason 12
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m (did not intend to try for summit)
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/09,5400m),C1(28/09,6050m),C2(15/10,6600m),C3(18/10,7000m),C4(29/10,7500m),xxx(31/10,01/11,8000m)
Route Notes Sato - 12 Nov 69 (ex-Lukla) 2 today - leader and Sato 8 more tomorrow including 4 journalists 2 Friday (5 & 7) Could go up SW Face up central ice couloir to snow traverse onto South Ridge; traverse starts at 8000m. In recon reached this 8000m point. Recon was to experience rock climbing at high altitude On last day, 2 members went to highest point reached by expedition at 7970m: 31 Oct - Konishi and Uemura 1 Nov - Sato and Nakajima Sato proceeded one more pitch to 8000m rock climbing for 1st time; not so steep but much trouble with oxygen equipment. Was 5:30 pm and suffered slight frostbite in toes. At 5:00 oxygen finished; at 5:30 also could find no good belaying point; another time if had ice pitons, Ok. South Ridge some danger of rock falls - also space for camp. Sato reached beginning of snow traverse. Directissima from this point forbidding: some overhang and very smooth rock walls. If can make big station including oxygen hut at base thus rock buttress might be possible to do directissima, so expect will do traverse.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2442585
Year 1969
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face (recon)

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hideki Miyashita M 1931 Japan Leader - Vice President Construction Company, Shinsei Shokai Co. Details Other expeditions
Hisashi Tanabe M - Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Nakajima M 1938 Japan Climber Urawa, Saitama, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Masatsugu Konishi M 1938 Japan Climber - Works in Hosocawa printing office Details Other expeditions
Naomi Uemura M 1941 Japan Climber Kinosaki-gun, Hyogo, Japan Agriculture graduate, Kyoshin Iron Foundary Co. Details Other expeditions
Yukitoshi Sato M 1942 Japan Climber Ota-ku, Tokyo, Japan Member of Mitsui Bank Details Other expeditions
Jiro Inoue M 1945 Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Post graduate student of Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Shigeo Omori M 1933 Japan Exp Doctor Kitatama, Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Katsuhisa Kimura M - Japan Cameraman Japan - Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Sato M - Japan Reporter - - Details Other expeditions
Tokutaro Noguchi M - Japan TV Cameraman - - Details Other expeditions
Hisao Shirai M 1933 Japan TV Director - - Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER69301 JAC Ohtsuka, Hiromi Two Recon Parties of the Japan Everest Exped '70 in 1969 - 65:12-13 (1970) -
EVER69301 AJ - - - 75:199 (1970) -
EVER69301 HJ Ohtsuka, Hiromi The Japanese Mount Everest Expedition, 1969-1970 - 31:100-112 (1971) -
EVER69301 JAC Ohtsuka, Hiromi The Japanese Mount Everest Expedition, 1969-1970 - 66:1-13 (1971) -
EVER69301 MM - Everest - Direttissima - 12:25 (Nov 1970) -
EVER69301 MM - - - 7:2 (Jan 1970) -
EVER69301 JAC Ohtsuka, Hiromi Two Recon Parties of the Japan Everest Exped '70 in 1969 - 65:130-147 (1970) -
EVER69301 JAC Ohtsuka, Hiromi The Japanese Mount Everest Expedition, 1969-1970 - 66:38-65 (1971) -
EVER69301 - Japanese Alpine Club Accounts of 1st & 2nd Reconnaissance Expeditions JAC, Tokyo - jN114
EVER69301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/8/the-japanese-mount-everest-expedition-1969-1970/ - - -
EVER69301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1970_files/AJ%201970%20196-202%20Nepal.pdf - - -