Everest | 1963 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1963 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Norman Dyhrenfurth. Summit reached on 1st May 1963. 27 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2529
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER63101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1963
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 W Cwm-W Ridge-N Face (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Norman Dyhrenfurth
Sponsor American Mount Everest Expedition 1963
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th,6th
Ascent 2 7th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1963-03-21
Summit Date 1963-05-01
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 41
Total Days 65
Termination Date 1963-05-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 20
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 40
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/03,5425m),C1(30/03,6160m),C2.ABC(02/04,6510m),C3(07/04,7250m),C4(15/05,7650m),C5(16/05,7950m),C6(21/05,8300m),Smt(01,22/05); C3W(07/04,7250m),C4W(15/05,7650m),C5W(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05),Biv(22/05,8530m)
Route Notes Barry Bishop - 16 Oct 1969 Sept 25th remains found by Japanese expedition, 20 minutes walk from base camp. 1st Sherpas brought in watch, etc. Japanese placed remains in wooden box which they sealed and on that they wrote John E Breitenbach March 23, 1963; took all effects and put in 2 smaller boxes and inventoried 21 items. Head Lama heard about this and held service at base about 1st Oct. Japanese intended cremation 10 Nov after climbing finished. 7 Oct Ward reached KTM and plans made by US and Nepal - message supposedly sent to police at Namche to bring remains to Thyangboche. Bishop at Namche early 11th Oct and found nothing done because radio message garbled so Bishop filled them in and policeman and 2 Sherpas sent to base for body and left 11th and arrived base 12th. Japanese refused hand over body. On 13th Bishop leaves them at Thyangboche and sends them back with letter from Bishop written to Japanese leader; leader at C1 and said no release on 13th until 1 radio contact on 14th after which release agreed to. David Harr (US embassy) arrived Thyangboche less Dyhrenfurth on 15th. On 13th head Lama selected grave site and constructed that afternoon in snowstorm with police agreement - on north-facing slope with view from there of monestery towards Everest group and Ama Dablam. Bishop got stone mason to carve marker John E Breitenbach 1935-1963 "Long Live the Crown" AMME (quite from Tetu days - epitaph he wanted). 2 3/3 K 2 1/2 and Tibetan prayer flag blessed and hoisted by grave - Buddhist prayer by head Lama and 8 monks to Sherpas, Dyhrenfurth, Harr and Bishop. Harr read Christ burial service including prayer "I will lift up mine eyes into the hills" at 9:30-10:30 am. Dyhrenfurth from Namche by helicopter this morning and back to Namche. Dyhrenfurth will continue to base with his party in 5-6 days and will talk to Japanese; 21 effects to Lukla under Police escort to MFA to US embassy - to be displayed about 22nd or 23rd. Bishop and Dyhrenfurth recognized camera, walkie-talkie, ice axe same as AMME - watch stopped at 27th, about right for being authentic. Jake written on parka, water bottle - thus saw no reason to open sealed coffin. Matsuzayawa - Everest climbing party base camp Found body 25th Sept with ice axe, anorak and shoes, camera and film, walkie-talkie, watch; most of bones broken, only both hands and feet. Miharana message to Dhy and US embassy of condolence. Dr. Omari written and has seen body. Barry Bishop - 10 Oct 63 Tomorrow am Bishop flies to Lukla and treks to Thyangboche to arrange burial; meanwhile at MFA's request remains being brought to Thyangboche and he hopes remains will arrive 14th evening. 15th David Harr of US embassy will leave KTM by USAID helicopter, stop at Lukla for Norman Dyhrenfurth and if he's there pick him up and proceed to Thyangboche (if he's not at Lukla, Harr proceeds without him). Remains to be identified, presumably as Breitenbach: if not, temporary burial at Thyangboche: if so, permanent burial there hopefully with Thyangboche head Lama present for blessing. Bishop will send Dyhrenfurth messages to be at Lukla on 15th am (1) by streamer from tomorrow's flight over Junbesi and (2) runner back from Lukla. B Bishop - 7 Oct 63 Maynard Miller's rate of 3 days and Jake 1-1/2 miles up icefall means could well be Jake - so very possibly Jake. Next of kin notified: widow, Jacksauyo and parents Victoria BC. Must wait for their instructions. Barry proposes Alouette pick up Norm and they identify and pick up body (near base - 20 minutes away) and bury at Gorak Shep beneath memorial rock inscription. Dr Barrymore - 3 Sept 63 Litle survived completely, all rest off at about 1st joint - 8 had come off about there's they died; this morning's surgical procedure was triming 8 toes in hospital only couple of days now. "Few observations made at time of operation, it will be unlikely that any further amputation will be necessary - no major skin grafting." Unsoeld - 5 Aug 63 Barry last Sunday talking about early Sept for 1st operation. Unsoeld feels must be out of hospital by Oct 10 when 2 Peace Corps groups arrive. Has first refused 1st offer of another expedition - to climb in Antarctica, Nov 1965 - Feb 1966. Expedition Press Conference - June 10 Team effort - including all personnel. Scientific purpose as well as mountain climbing. Lost track how many new disaster. On track in seemed all going very well with such large group - until bridge collapsed. Then smallpox (one of Tamang porters infected and others from him - vaccines brought in). On mountain tragic death March 23 of Breitenbach on 2nd day in icefall. 6-12 few scares on mountain in ridge route: group of Sherpas in dump went down hillside in avalanche from snowstorm which sent them back to C2 without equipment and without desire to go back up. Then wind storm 16-17 May at C4 West on crest of ridge after ascent to 26,000 ft by Tom and Willy. About midnight Al said seemed to have lost 2 tents; wind had caught 2 tents broadside and carried down slope 150 ft turning over with 2 Americans and 4 Sherpas inside - tied down in spot where stopped rolling and spent night there. Next am tent at higher spot started sliding. Finally crowded down to C3 W for night (would have gone to C2 if not so tired). Whittaker without oxygen from north summit down: 20-30 ft overhang of cornices to east with wind from west. Cornice fractured taking away left half foot prints (these tracks still there 3 weeks later). At bottom of gap between north and south summit turned upside down hanging from rope in strong wind and couldn't communicate to Gombu - managed turn himself right side. Dyhrenfurth: then bivouac at 28,000 ft: - previous record at 26,000 ft - "if had been higher wind that might they would not be alive." Siri: 5 resident projects: 1) 3 studies on then human behavior physiology 2) geophysical: glaciology programme by NGS Cannot give conclusions for 6 months to 1 year to do analytical work. No thoughts of sex above 23,000 ft. Dhy says "couldn't agree less with British." Pownall: freeze dry foods easy to prepare - more variety would have been better. Wish list for assault, mostly jellies and liquids to save churning energy - had no food or water after breakfast from 6 am until about 6 o'clock tea at C6 (no water because contents froze; put some snow on his mouth but gave no satisfaction because too dry). Hornbein thinks it possible to reach summit at night. Dyh: without oxygen after 3 days so food and sleep not able to conceive. Dyh: found selves short-handed at times when split into 2 routes. Could have used more, both Sherpas and Sahibs. Big expedition cumbersome 5 miles fine). Dyh: 29,628 ft he accepts until another survey proves it wrong. Whit: "mountain seemed higher than I had read about it." Miller: seasonal varieties in snow (firn=compact snow) 1-1/2 to 7 feet at lower altitude in cwm; this a different mountain, every year." Dyh: West Ridge in minds of many climbers quite a few years. In US American Expedition discussed it secretly and 2 days out of Kathmandu decided make determined recon and if feasible split into 2 with Lhotse and Nuptse later if at all. All shared feeling West Ridge "very valuable prize in terms of mountaineering accomplishment." Horn: route on took to summit did not follow ridge all the way: over onto on face for a while. West Ridge itself will require greater forces - should be better called West Buttress at shoulder route. Dyh: accomplishments: 1st climb on West Ridge; 1st Himalayas traverse (in this case necessary for physical and psych support to West Ridgers). 6 men on summit (in 1953 2 men of 12 climbers at summit). Scientific reseach - film on TV and maybe in theatres - equipment research - trip to US by 5 Sherpas and Captain Prabhakar to major cities and major mountaineering centers. Hornbein: clear night but no moon so very black and difficult for sight Dyh: Everest not conquered in autumn - same for anything above 27,000 ft - foolish to try it as Swiss found out in 1952 and French on Makalu in 1954. May first earliest on summit such high peak and in retrospect wish could have picked better date. Month of May only month Everest climbable. J Roberts - 27,600 ft - 12 South Col 22 27,200 (W) - 5 Dyh: this J Roberts' 13th Expedition (5 in Himalayas) - his knowledge of language and Himalayas extremely valuable. American Everest Fed support research in mountain across. Dyh: Yeti question still open. Up to yellow band technical problems, less on north face but after that appears very difficult. Whit pic at summit: 28 - April 30th 38 - Norman 1) (in lead) and Ang Dawa IV 39 - barber = Pasang Tamba of Darjeeling 42 - Girme Dorje correct spelling 48 - Ang Dawa - Day after climb: 5/2 - Jim and Gombu had gone down; Dyh and AG "wrapping things up" batch 2 12 - 28,200 ft 14 - peak a left Lingtren - Khumbutse on right 18 - mountain in background is Nuptse 21 - Nuptse wall - true peak does not show - badly foreshortened 24 - went to about 27,800 ft - any way he's not in pic - now in Gombu 3 - Dudh Kosi 9 - 1955 Erwin South - map probably Austrian Alpine Club but sponsored German Dyh's 1955 Himalayas Expedition, which climbed 30 peaks; (main objective Lhotse - made 1st recon - got 1200 ft from top) 10 Yersa - 9 or 10 days out of KTM 15 Hornbein designed (not helped design) - none of Gombu nor Ang Dawa 17 - just below IV 19 - tis Chambos 22 - Dolaghat 16 batch 2 - Dick Emerson in picture says Corbet 9 batch - definitely Pownall says Whittaker 49-53 batch 3 - not Millers pix - taken by 49 - Sherpa ahead and Dawa behind 50 - Bishop taken by Prabhu 51 - Doedy taken by Prabhu 52 - Prathu of his own foot 53 - by Prabhu probably Whittaker - 13 June Cornice occurred just below north or main summit - when fracture occurred, Gombu leading; not disturbed except gave "very much of start". Completely silent in roar of wind, but piece fell away between them. 20 minutes or so later and all way down to saddle between 2 summits and on way up to South Summit. Gombu was above him since Whit had stopped and taken off pack; rope had tangled with pack and when slid when snow steps gave way, rope tight from above very tight made him swivel into upside down position on saddle 2 feet from ground. Gombu wondered at strain on rope but couldn't see what happened - got himself right side up in 1 minute - "first time I even been upside down." Whit leading up - about 8 ft below summit suddenly realized at summit, Whittaker stopped 50 ft below and let Gombu come even with him and inivited him go up first. After several rounds of "you go first" Whit said "Ok both together" - "this way we were both 7th man on top." Whit from C6 to C2 on May 2, to base next day. Did not ever go back up through icefall. Wanted to go up Lhotse - 2 weeks with other assault team but not enough oxygen left. Whit leaving Nov to go home to family and sporting good store whose big time is July and "give it a slot in the arm by leaving there". "I love the mountains and wind certain to climb in them but as for as major expeditions that's not in the wild future". Will continue to lead 2 climbs in Cascades, Olympics, etc for Mountaineers (club of 4000 members in Seattle from which he learned to climb at 14). Will do some porch sitting because "I'm 20 lbs underweight and only way I can think of to get them back"; still involved in instruction, etc. Ullman - 9 May Whittaker "a driving force - one of less complicated members." Not dissimilar to Hillary, physically and psychologically" - tremendous shoulders, tremendous energy; was swimming on lake near Seattle on shores of which he lives through winter to toughen self. On march in doing 50 push-ups every occasional day. "Wanted to get to the top of Everest" in contrast to Hornbein and Unsoeld who'd apparently rather fail on West Ridge. 25-30 lbs below normal weight when at top. Gombu: (Hunt says 17 in 1953) - his 4th or 5th expedition to Everest and very strong motivation to get to top - ambitious get out of Tenzing's shadow - well used by all and doing lots of work - very short and stocky. Ang Dawa IV has been on Dyh's previous expeditions - slight but not so short as Gombu. Dyh in almost same role as Hunt in support - forced to go high because of photographer needs with Doody's being indisposed. Whittaker began climbing 1943 as boy scout - does skii driving [sky diving?] - climbed Mt Rainier 55 times by various routes. Radio in apt - 10 May Weather very good this am but in pm poorer - lots of avalanches around you. Khumbu icefall broken up very badly and giving bad problems getting through it these days. Ullman - 10 May Dave Dingman replaced Gil Roberts in support team on South Col - no reason; Ullman's "educated guess" for ascent. Radio in apt - 11 May Jim Lester and Gil Roberts at base today. Bishop also lost 2 days on West Ridge because of bad weather. P{obably leave May 25th base, arrive 9 June Kathmandu. Up high on mountain very high winds - clear at base where is calm. Avalanches thundering down every once in a while today. Bishop and Jerstad start climbing tomorrow and will make one camp per day weather permitting. West Ridge group presumably working out of advance base where they have been delayed by bad weather. Dyh says: Bishop at C1 tonight from base today with 3 Sherpas then support plan leave base tomorrow. Hornbein from C2 to C3 West today Unsoeld on ridge at C3 West Siri at base says: Bishop and Jerstad left today to processed slight through schedule summit attempt 21st. Hope coincide with West Ridge summit attempt, but once past C3 most go because of oxygen and support. West Ridge must establish C4 and C6. If meet up with col group will traverse and go down S Col but if don't make coincide will go down by West Ridge. Reason West Ridge group must go down West Ridge is now impossible to provide adequate support after 21st for South Col route. Ullman - 12 May Weather good today at base. Both groups to come down by South Col route if 2 route group meet at summit. West ridge team has enough oxygen to make assault 2-3 days after 21st. Radio in apt - 13 May Jerstad and Bishop went to C2 today and will lay there 1 day. C3 W is finished and ready to start C4 West. Weather very good today - hot sunshine. Whittaker now at base. Gombu also. Whittaker and Pownall went skiing today on glacier with Doody taking pix. Long range monsoon forecast: mid-May at least before arrives Everest area. C4 W at 25,100 ft he believes - which is in beginning and largely rocky region - site first reached 12 April by Hornbein, Unsoeld and Bishop. Carry to C4 W by 9 Sherpas and Unsoeld today. Hornbein, Emerson, Corbet and Jerstad at C3. Weather at base good, clouds morning in now but snow today or past 2 days which is record snow free period. Winches use on way to C2 W but now they're beyond that so no more use for them now. Dhy at base camp today: C1 base 17,800 C2 advance 21,350 C3 23,000 C4 24,900 C5 26,000 C6 27,450 Ullman - 14 May Bishop and Jerstad still at C2. Dingman today from base to C1. J. Roberts tomorrow from base to C1. Carry of loads to C4 W by 9 Sherpas and Unsoeld today; Hornbein and Auten at C3 W. Emerson and Corbet at C2. Another very fine sunny day at base. J Roberts to C1 today Miller is at C1 today. Dingman to C2 today Jerstad and Bishop plan to move out 17th from on West Ridge carry to C4 W yesterday. Will be 6 Sherpas on col route and approx 12 on West Ridge. Target still 21st for both West Ridge and South Col. Dyh at base today, so are Lester & Siri - "waiting, biting our finger nails" hoping weather will stay good and 21st will be a double achievement" says Dyh. Unsoeld at about 25,100 ft yesterday evening. Corbet and Emerson going up West Ridge from C2 tomorrow. If Jerstad and Bishop do move out of C2 on 17th, means then 1 camp/day to summit (Prather on radio at base today) Ullman - 16 May Jerstad: At Pacific Lutheran Col: very good football and basketball player - has coached basketball and golf. Played 2 years AAU and Basket combination athlete and intellectual - teaches drama. pixie quality: sports, poetry, wore beanie with helicopter. 35 ascents of Rainier by various routes; guide on Rainier; 2 expeditions in Alaska. Now down to 135 or so pounds. Wife had baby during expedition. Bishop: Climbed Ama Dablam, very difficult mountain; excellent mountaineer writer for National Geographic and photographer. Solar radiation work for this expedition. Geographer - BS geology at University of Cin, MS geography Northwestern. Scientific advisor to RE Byrd's Antarctic Projects office. Climbed W US, Canada, Mexico, Alps. 1st expedition 1951 McKinley (1st ascent via West Buttress - Argentina, Antarctica. Tremendous passion and drive to get mountain top (like Whit) - paid little attention to wife during 5 days visit. Hornbein: Quite introspective, "dedicated mountaineer" - driving more than anyone for West Ridge - resented priority given South Col. Radio in apt - 16 May Dyh at base: weather started snow 5 pm today. At 200 feet (Whit and Gombu found in type ribbon can rosary, crucifix and Pope John medal - Gombu carried to summit and brought down to base. 4F 79 W 7-9 pm - 21 May1 Have no word on West Ridgers - think was carry from C3 W to C4 W today by Sherpas. Ullman - 16 May Snowing began this afternoon at base - Sherpa carry from C3 W to C4 W. Radio in apt - 17 May Weather bad today: high winds - at base at least 1 inch of snow and weather so bad doubts anyone move up the mountain. Dyh, Lester, Whit, Doody, Pownall, Prather at base today. Lack of oxygen limits number of people going up. No names of high climbing Sherpas except Girmi Dorje is with Bishop. Dhy: "weather report quite bad - low over Afghanistan which travelled to Punjab yesterday - winds are very severe. At height of Everest summit about 100 mph so now on West Ridge stymied and just hanging on. If low passes and winds die down will still have lost time and summit date changed by one day at least; we are still hopeful we can pull it off." Dyh try to have expedition says as little as possible at Banepa - press conf at KTM with all members present. If press comes to meet expedition members refer him to Dyh and he give very little. High winds - 1 inch snowfall - 100 mph establish high up wind - clearing a bit towards South at base at 5 pm. No word from other camps today but doubt anyone moved up. Dyh still hopeful we can pull it off. Girmi Dorje with Bishop. Radio in apt - 18 May Dark weather but only light snow flurry today which seems over for day [mailrunner arrived KTM today]. Whit. - base, will stay down G. Roberts - base, will stay Pownall - base, will stay Prather -t base, will stay Emerson - C3 W Dingman - C2 to C3 tomorrow Siri - base, will stay down Auten - C7 W - stay there or C4 N Doody - base, will stay down Dyh - base, will stay down Crucifix, etc will be brought back to KTM Dhy: "yesterday site was rather confused in view of terrible weather" - due to tremendous winds which were 60-80 mph at C4 W night before last around midnight 2 tents (with 4 Sherpas) (Auten and Corbet) started slide down hill 100 vertical feet but no one hurt - managed to arrest slide but had bad night. Next am they were hanging on for lives. Tent blowing over edge taken moving but somehow Tom, Wilby, Barry and Al and 4 Sherpas descended in terrible storm at C3 W where spent night. 2 days before Barry and Emerson should have gone to C3 W from C2 but Emerson not well; day before yesterday started towards C3 W alone. Spent night in crevasse more comfortably than those in C3 W protected by winds. Next day on to C3 W. Today Unsoeld, Hornbein, Emerson, Corbet and Auten and 3 Sherpas spent last night at C3 W and today there too though weather better but still quite windy. 5 tents lost on West Ridge altogether (3 at C4 W, 2 at dump) Equipment was lost but think able save all oxygen which is vital. Sherpas tired. In view of less of tents and other equipment and food, Unsoeld earlier chances "exceedingly slim if weather good and all else perfect; at very best might be able put 2 men team on summit May 22. So orginal plan to have 2 men each has to be abandoned. Great deal of luck to reach summit. If nearly not perfect, will have to be content recon towards C6 W at about establish 27,800 ft. Even Willy and Tom not very optimistic and if don't reach summit but succeed reconnoitering route beyond 27,000 will have done something tremendous in mountaineering world. Bishop and Jerstad now at C3 bottom Lhotse Face. Will continue tomorrow to C4 and due to high winds past 2 days not certain any tents left South Col and at C6; therefore Bishop and Lute and Sherpas will have to carry tents sleeping bags oxygen to South Col; if on arrival at South Col final tents up final and at C6 hooray; if nearly lucky have summit meeting on 22nd. If West Ridgers delayed 1-2 days will be descend via West Ridge. Weather considerably better today - winds lessened and all we can now is hope". "If weather Ok tomorrow West Ridgers will carry from C3 W to C4 W and Willy Unsoeld and Hornbein will stay there." Ullman - 18 May West Ridge on 16/17 - high winds 70-80 mph. Night of 16th 2 tents started sliding down mountain (Corbet and 4 Sherpas) - about 100 vertical feet down mountain; hanging on for lives but stopped. Yesterday am while Dyh on radio to Unsoeld - at C4 W heard him shout to Hornbein "tents blowing over" but didn't quite go. Later on 17th Unsoeld, Hornbein, Corbet and Auten and 4 Sherpas worked way down to C3 W in terrible storm. Today at C3 W meanwhile Emerson and Corbet fun - C2 to C3 W by - Corbet reached them by Emerson turned back and up again alone and spent night in crevasse where was warmer than in tents - arrive C3 W. 5 West Ridgers at C3 W last night. Tomorrow will try to go to reestablish C4 W and still hoping summit May 22nd and hoping out C6 W at 27,800 ft. South Col Bishop from C2 to C3 today. Tomorrow hope to go to C4. Afraid inside blew away tents their route so carrying tents. Support party one day behind. Still hopes of summit meeting May 22nd. Radio in apt - 19 May NW Ridge today rested at C2 W - everybody there today. Lester and Pownall to C4, Dingman and Girme Dorje to C3. Dyh will hope leave base 25 May, arrive Namche 27 May, spend night and 28 May. Leave 29 May. Ullman - 19 May Weather fairly good today - base camp said did not have the number of Sherpas on South Col route. Radio in apt (Doody) - 20 May Whit: on top 1 May about 20 minutes - summit a snow summit; permanent area 100-150 feet below true high point of mountain which is snow - impossible to search. * whole area for Mao Crust thoroughly thus 150 ft of snow to rock - left a stake with flag flying when left summit - were without oxygen 3-1/2 hours from summit to tents. As far as know Bishop and Jerstad reached Col today - have 3 Sherpas: Nima Tenzing, Temba Tenzing Palden. Weather pretty good. Dingman has Girme Dorje and Nima Dorje at 4 today. J Roberts is at C2 and will stay there to supervise Sherpa movements and be second line of support. West Ridgers: 3 Sherpas with them: Pasang Temba, Ang Dorje, Tenzing Nima. This morning Gil Roberts says climbers in good spirits with windless day today. All 5 climbers and 3 Sherpas planned to go to C4 W today and tomorrow to send 3 climbers recon and put C5 W as light as possible leaving 2-3 hours ahead of others who would move up in support. Hoping might conceivably from there reach summit. Not yet decided who in advance (Unsoeld and Hornbein probably). Slim chance of traverse. Radio in apt - 21 May Radio contact with both South and West Ridge. Lute and Barry up C6. Dingman and 2 Sherpas to C5; he said he could see Lute and Bishop traversing. Weather fine today winds up high as usual. West Ridge moving high as can get with C5 - no time for higher camp. Tomorrow will push as high as can but chances of success very slim. Were up to 26,200 ft for C5. Theoretically will not continue upwards after tomorrow; put so much work into route may try another day or so but haven't sufficient oxygen, food, etc for much longer. Radio apt - 22 May, 5:00 pm Dyh: Weather very good today - no high winds. Al Auten at 8:15 am C4 W said weather beautiful. Unsoeld and Hornbein went up. Bishop and Jerstad went up from C6. From Pumori could see nothing of climbers - only 2 Sherpas seen. Have very high hopes but no news. [night from 7 o'clock at 5 and tomorrow 9:00 am and (base has contact with others at camps at 8:00 am] * C5 W at 27,200 ft * Dingman and Girme Dorje from C5 to C4 today base camp assumes Gombu son of Tenzing's elder sister who is dead. Radio in apt - 23 May Incomplete story: 9 am after leaving C5 N stocked by Emerson, Corbet and Auten and 3 Sherpas carried Will and Tom left C5 W 7 am yesterday and 6:30 pm Will and Tom on top of Everest. They climbed almost 12 hours difficult climbing. Started down towards Col 6; had enough oxygen for C6, no route back West Ridge. Hopefully assume Bishop reached summit yesterday am. No radio contact with South Col walkie-talkie today - maybe radios now down. At 6:30 at top winds had become quite strong West Ridge summiters reported to C2. 11 am yesterday Bishop and Jerstad seen going up mountain approaching by Miller from C2. Good chance they both got to top. Radio contact at 1 and 5 pm today Kathmandu-base. 9N1ME = Expedition DD = Gresham American Mt Everest Expedition Radio from expedition - 26 March Result of enquiry next day (24 March) at base camp by N Dyr, Dingman, Whittaker, Doody, Jerstad, Pownall, Bishop, Roberts, Unsoeld, Auten and Siri. "eye witness of about leading up to accident and afterwards" Breitenbach died 2 pm NST on 23 March in icewall fall of Khumbu Glacier - nature of accident: collapse of large wall of ice on ice face at altitude 19,000 ft, Body could not evacuated by rescue team at 5 pm because of great mass of ice - established body 20-30 ft under fallen icefall. Time of death was on team British Gil Roberts, Richard Pownall, Sherpas Ang Pema, Ila Tsering. Improvised path to icefall provened previous day by expert team. Ice wall section 60 X 30 + 20 feet winds collapsed directly on him. 3 others in party - injuries very minor to others. Dr. Roberts searched for Breitenbach but assured self could not have survived nor be recovered and returned to base camp. Others from base reached site before nightfall and agreed. Accident on act of God not due to negligence lack of experience: Roberts, Richard Pownall, Sherpa Ang Pema 27 March 3 parties on icefall today. 2nd party 1/2-2/3 up icefall where establish and emergency camp and - 3rd went all way to top of icefall and have reached into Cwm and this have route into W Cwm. If so will begin to establish advance base camp 1 in W Cwm. "Certainly is news to me" about reported death of 7 porters - "it is not our expedition but we know nothing of Hillary's expedition." 29 March - reported by Gresham: In reply to yesterday's sympathy message from Sarni head of Indian Mountaineering to Expedition, Norman Dhyrenfurth said today Expedition deeply appreciate sympathy. Norman had just returned from icefall and said conditions were unusually severe, but good route completed today and camp at top of icefall will be occupied in strength on March 31st. 30 March - reported by Gresham: C1 established yesterday at 20,220 ft. Tomorrow C2 (advanced base camp) will be occupied in force at 21,500 ft. Tomorrow party of 4 (Bishop, Unsoeld, Emerson and Hornbein) going up to look at West Ridge. Weather has been very good. 31 March - reported by Moran Still consolidating camps so no reconnaisance today nor tomorrow, probably day after tomorrow. National Geographic man arrived - snow at 2:00 pm today 1 April - reported by Sallys Direct radio contact made for 1st time between walkies-talkies unit (at C1 at top of Khumbu icefall) and Kathmandu through Expedition radio at base camp. At C1 today were Pownall, Bishop, Whittaker, Unsoeld, Jerstad, Gil Roberts, Emerson and Hornbein. C1 to be at 20,800 ft. Weather not good 2 April - reported by Sallys Some members at base camp, some at dump, some at C1 and some at C2 (advance base). 3 April C1 top of icefall. Only 500 ft above advanced base camp today just looking around. No more patients - one sent down has intestinal TB. They think have innoculated all our high altitude porters so now have 100% vaccinated expedition. Advance base camp is at 21,300 ft. Thinking of 2 camps next: C4 first below Lhotse Face. Maybe in couple of days would occupy it. 3 went up today to look it one [if go West Ridge, will also go South Col, splitting forces - this said 4-5 days]. C3 by Jerstad and Whittaker decided C3 probably very nearly settled by tonight at about 23,000 ft. Unsoeld and Barry on W Ridge = 2500 ft Bishop above advanced base camp 1500 ft at last word: last night no walkie-talkie talk with them so no further news from them yet. During day official temperature not much above 20's - but hot bright sun much warmer outside - very few clouds today. Dyhenfurth arrive base camp today from C2 in 4 hours. Laryngitis still. Haven't yet heard, but expect confirmation this evening that Hornbein and Bishop have reached top W Shoulder, probably 24,000 ft. C4 at about 24,500 ft on top Lhotse Face today or tomorrow by Whittaker, Pownall, Jerstad, Gil Roberts in about a week should be talking from advance base. 6 April Unsoeld and others working on West Ridge 2 will probably stay halfway up it. J. Roberts to C1 tomorrow: Auten went there today. Maynard small accident to foot and will be necessary in base camp awhile: 200 yards from base and is back in tent now; paining great deal but Ok. Whittaker and Jerstad were to go up to C4 24,800 ft and hope to have it establish today. Dump will be required half way between advanced base and top West Ridge. At C1: Doody, Corbet, Auten; at base: Dyh, Emerson, Lester, J Roberts, Miller, Prather. 7 April Have established C4 24,800 ft at Lhotse Face today. Whittaker, Jerstad, maybe Gombu at C4 working on West Ridge but no recent reports. Jim Roberts to C1, Corbet to C2 from C1, etc. Maynard Ok in bed. C4 not yet established. Pownall and Gil Roberts going to work there tomorrow. Whittaker and Gombu halfway up Lhotse Face despite strong winds today - more news on this tomorrow. Dyh plans to go on above C2 April 10 to take dig of Lhotse Face and hope by then to know whether West Ridge promises success. So will have 2-fold assault. Unsoeld in dig of W. Overcast and light snow. Dyh arrive 2 pm today at C1. Working on West Ridge route today Hornbein, Unsoeld and Bishop. Yesterday up to 800 vertical ft to C4. Others today should have finished the route and "carry" tomorrow from C2 to C3 and probably next day to C4. 10 April Dyh and "crevasse [??] went today to C2. 1st camp out of advance base at 23,800 ft on (C3) on West Ridge. Unsoeld and Hornbein probably there last night. Pownall and Jerstad went up at least C4 or maybe above; they don't know where C4 is - no "carry" there yet so not really established yet. Don't know how long C3 W will last. Tomorrow will have conference on West Ridge and day after tomorrow probably have the news on getting very light sparkling of snow every night. 11 April Weather poor so W recon probably accomplished little today. Wl look around some more tomorrow and return tomorrow night. 12 April C3 W: Hornbein, Unsoeld and Bishop staying overnight and down to C2 tomorrow. Decion on West route will be known tomorrow. South Col route: big carry to C3 today but C4 not yet established because of work on West Ridge - established probably tomorrow. Snow falling lightly today. 13 April West Ridge looks Barry & Prather talking like it has a route but will be difficult so putting South Col route 1st. Unsoeld, Barry Bishop and Hornbein went to 25,000 ft on West Ridge yesterday. On South Col route - at more today at 24,800 ft established C4 today: (took carry up and left it) Whittaker, Gombu, Nima Dorje and Pasang Temba. West Ridge work required all Sherpas power on West Ridge for 3 days, hence delay on establishing C4. 14 April Everybody going to work on South Col until 2 men reach summit, then if time, tackle West Ridge. Weather clear this morning, snow after 2 pm. Bishop, Dingman going to go all the way after day or two of rest. Trying on 22nd though weather the big factor. Things going very smoothly at advance camp between 20th and 30th. 2 teams to the summit - including Whittaker, Dingman, Gombu and Nima Dorje, Bishop, Jerstad, Pownall, Dyhrenfurth, Ang Dawa = will be split into 2 strong teams - ready to go. Unsoeld going on West Ridge later with 3rd team if time permits. "We hope to hit the mountain but the 30th of the month weather being on one side." Having troubled with yellow band of rocks at 25-26000 ft. C2's and receiver on walkie-talkie not working. Lila Bishop arrive base camp today - all well with her party. 17 April "At 3:13 pm 16 April Luke Jerstad, Pownall, Nima Tenzing and Choydenj (Sherpa) reached South Col at 26,000 ft between Everest and Lhotse. This is the earliest time of year that South Col has below attained. Next 7-10 days will be spent in carrying food, oxygen, tents and gear to C5 in the Col before C6 at 27,800 ft is established preliminary to first attempt at the same time preparations are under way for assault on West Ridge of Everest - statement signed by Dhy. C3 W has 2 men there today (Auten and Corbet). 18 April Not much activity: carry from C2 to C3 - 2 fellows at C3 W setting up. 19 April On West Ridge 2 fellows same from C3 W - was to be carry from C3 to C4. This the main part of activities today. 20 April Very high winds on Lhotse Face - not sure about carry to C4. On West Ridge no word; can only guess Auten and Corbet came down to C2 today. 21 April C3 W evacuated today - most members at C2, some up on Pumori ridge from base taking pix. Big push is now on yellow band - will be news in next few days. Haven't yet slept in South Col. Push is to get carries into col and establish camp there. Weather snowing now. Last few days higher up high winds blowing snow badly. C3 W also had bad winds. Estimate 100 mph winds on Lhotse summit; base camp at 18,000 ft 22 April No news to report. Weather on Lhotse Face "lousy." Hope to establish team in Col about 25th. Bishop and Dingman up to C3 tomorrow leaving only liaison and Miller at base. Others have gone already to C2 to work on South Col route. Wind and clouds in South Col. Ready for 1st break in weather. 23 April Corbet and Auten came low base camp today. Didn't hear helicopter and weather looks bad a Namche area now. Radio to stay at base. 6 loads into South Col yesterday. West Ridge group took 6 loads up West Ridge. Auten will be with West Ridge group. 24 April Weather today: sun and high clouds haze. By 9:00 am solid wall of clouds steadily deteriorated throughout day with snow showers. Porter arrived today from Thyangboche where weather has been very poor and didn't hear helicopter but would have been suprised if had. Expect poor weather for next several days. [Pilatus Porter will scout route tomorrow if weather permitting - looking for Nicolas and Auten helicopter which left KTM yesterday]. 10 Sherpas carry to Col reached yellow band today. No movement beyond col, but getting very close to assault time so no more names of movement of men from camp to camp. When successful attempts made will gives no names - will release names only when all attempts finished. Lhotse and Nuptse not abandoned but downgraded - depends on how climbers feel when Everest climbed and weather. 25 April Weather lousy. Suspect today letter writing day all up and down the camps - really only bad day have had yet. Ullman - 25 April No climbing news, bad weather. 2 ft of snow in Cwm in past 4 days. Today fine till early pm. In past days mainly Sherpa carries to South Col. Think no one yet slept there. Reaching summit by 30th now seems impossible according to Auten - Ullman. Ullman - 28 April C5 established on col about 26,000. 1st assault party started up yesterday from advance base: 4 climbers and 13 porters (not all Sherpas above Col). 2nd assault party started today: 4 and 4 - each group to spend 1 night at successive camps. Target date for summit is Wed. West Ridge 2nd day but still on program. Weather fine am, clouds pm. Karppi - 24 April 3rd party of 2 climbers and C4 Sherpas = support party for 2nd party left C2 for C3 today. 1st assault party from C4 to C5 today and 2nd from C3 to C4 today. Radio in apt - 29 April 3rd assault party is hoped will climb Lhotse, but don't want to call it Lhotse party because then will have to explain if it doesn't go up Lhotse - so calling it publicly support party to 2nd Everest assault party. Radio in apt - 30 April No news to announce today. Hornbein and Unsoeld at base camp ten days. Won't know about C6 arrival till 6 pm but weather looked bad in early am. Again in mid-late afternoon - have had no word from porters yet today; will talk again at 6 and next am. 1 May am Gresham talked to base camp lsst night through Ceylon. First team last night at C6 - intention to have it at 27,800 ft. Radio in apt - 1 May, 5:00 pm No news today from higher camps. Weather has been bad today and unlikely summit reached today. Ullman - 1 May, 5 pm Weather was good in am, bad in pm. 2nd and 3rd assault team did not move up today. but don't know about 1st team. Radio in apt - 1 May, 6:30 pm No radio contact still today with highest camp so no news. Radio in apt - 2 May, 5 pm No news - no contact with highest camps today or yesterday either directly or by relay through advance base. No movement of Sherpas up from Col. Weather windy at base with low clouds so couldn't judge what going on higher up. Ullman: possibility they're waiting till all finished is sad news. Hornbein and Unsoeld are at base still but may leave for West Ridge tomorrow. Ullman - 2 May, 7:30 pm Via Ceylon's as yesterday 1 May 1:00 pm, 2 men reached summit (via Dan Wallen in Ceylon out of Colombo on tea plantation). Radio in apt - 3 May 1 American and Sherpa reached summit 1 pm local time May 1st. Climb made in very light winds and low temperature. Climbers left C6 at 6:30 am and reached South Summit 11:30 am and main summit 1:00 pm. Flags of US Nepal flown on summit. Summit and support party have returned to base camp tired, but in good condition. No evidence of previous expeditions found at summit (letter from HM read by US ambassador). West Ridge plans proceeding - next ascent when weather better C6 27,600 ft Ullman - 3 May Plans for 2nd 2-man assault by S Col route and assault on West Ridge are going ahead. Weather not good (wind) so waiting till it improves for 2nd South Col attempt; congrats from Kennedy. HM and TG Stebbus, Dyh and Leader A few men still at advance base but most expedition members at base. Radio in apt - 4 May Dyrenfurth at C2. Hoped to be at base today but bad weather; will be on air from base tomorrow with news. About one week before next big push. Men will benefit by rest at lower altitude at base. Looked windy and cloudy high on mountain. 5 May Dyrenfurth arrive today at base. 2 men in support of summiters 28,100 ft. Practically all at base, except 4-5 who are assumed at advanced base. 4-man assault team spent night April 30th at C6; other 2 men of this party got only to 28,160 (below S Summit). Weather very bad day of summit climb. From base camp tomorrow men will start off via both routes. Ullman assumes may be tiring assault so 2 porters can meet at top via 2 routes. Presumably these first off tomorrow will be West Ridgers who have had then weeks rest since West Ridge will take longer. Perhaps 10 days to top from tomorrow Ullman estimates, but no target dates given on radio. Ullman guesses won't try Nuptse - that was probably washed out on W Ridge. Establish departure from base 22 May, in Banepa 6 June State Dept Cultural Exchange for 3 Nepalese and Darjeeling Indians: Nepalese Sherpas not yet chosen, but Gambu and Ang Dawa IV chosen as well as liaison officer. -20 degrees in col, winds above 80 mph in col, about -30 degrees at summit, snowing on way down from summit. Stayed 1/2 hour on summit - could see in all directions except east. 1 American and Sherpa in support party - celebrations everyone slept 24 hours. 2 Americans and above 12 Sherpas up icefall from base today Dates of current climb flexible; most watch weather. Dyh at base today. Ullman - 6 May About 12 Americans now at base so about 4 already above. Radio in apt - 7 May Heavy overcast at base today. Dyh at base today, return Kathmandu 6 June. Will stay 1 week; schedule thereafter unknown - cable message from Bishop to National Geographic. 2-man attempt on W Ridge. 12-man attempt on South Col. No climbers went up today, only porter laods. Ullman - 7 May Very likely West Ridge team would come down from summit via South Col, but unlikely South Col team would come down West Ridge. Radio in apt - 8 May No messages from base camp who could not hear KTM. Radio in apt - 9 May Auten climbing; Dyh at base: stopped snowing finally and trying to clear. Mailrunners left today, should arrive KTM 19 May. 7 climbers "up the hill," rest at base camp Prather on radio: Climbers names 1st assault reached top Whittaker and Gombu 2nd Supporter Dhy and Ang Dawa IV to 20,000 ft 2nd assault team from South Col: Bishop, Jerstad, Pownall and Girmi Dorje - got only few hundred feet above South Col to meet others coming down. 8 Solokhumbu Sherpas carried loads. Ullman - 9 May A miracle they got to top, Norman said via relay voice because of cold and wind. 8 Solukhumbu Sherpas to 27,400 ft which is record to have so many high. 2nd assault team went only 200-300 ft above South Col. 2-man assault team now up trying by South Col: Bishop and Jerstad. In support 2 Roberts and 4 Sherpas. Have not all left base. West Ridge team will be Unsoeld, Hornbein, Auten and undisclosed numbers of Sherpas. This 28,000 ft was Dyh's highest; about 25,500 ft his previous highest on Lhotse Face '52. Ullman - 22 May Dyh emphasized work done by West Ridgers who carried to C5 W: Emerson, Corbet, Auten and Sherpas. Unsoeld and Hornbein left C5 W at 7 am - was 4th degree climbing including pitons in rock and reached top 6:30 pm with walkie-talkie; at 6:33 talked from top to Miller at C2 who relayed to base. Return via South Col. No one knows where spent night. "It has been dream of mountaineers for decades to do a major Himalayan traverse [up one side and down another]; tried only once by Fred on Nanda Devi: and unsuccessful. "We are particularly happy and proud that our men have not only made the first Himalayas traverse but that this traverse was on Everest" - emphasized team effort. Whittaker radio contact in arm yesterday. Unsoeld and Hornbein working slowly one at a time driving pitons - were planning go for summit. No route back because rappel rope and pitons; did have 1-1/2 tanks oxygen each. Whittaker warned them not to take too many risks. Next contact at top of yellow band and confirmed would go on: no wind and warm - this last contact at 3 pm. At summit wind stronger and starting get dark they reported at 6:33. Bishop and Jerstad lack contact because weak batteries. West Ridge support party at C2 last night. No radio contact with high camps this morning - no news. Hope Sherpas will arrive this afternoon at base with news. May have men down to C2. 23 May, 5 pm Weather fine - another good afternoon at base. Dyh: news very good, everyone in good health. 4 men reached summit - Bishop & Jerstad 3:30 afternoon yesterday. 4 men bivouacked without tents and sleeping bags at 28,000 ft. Bishop and Jerstad simultaneously left then C6 as others left C5 W - waited around South Summit on way down for West Ridgers. 4 came down towards South C6; Lute leading, but lost route in dark and bivouacked at 28,000 ft. Dingman and Girme Dorjee at C6 last night. Today went up looking for 4 summiters when summiters didn't reach C6 yesterday. Were high enough on mountain and well equiped enough to have reached peak but met 4 returning and turned back to help them return since they were obviously tired by mid-afternoon on Lhotse Face and radioed they were all night - will have plenty of food and oxygen. Auten, Corbet, Emerson and some Sherpas (27) evacuated West Ridge bringing all could carry and now at C2. Everyone at C2 or C3 tonight. Tomorrow all at base - whole team sahibs and Sherpas at base tomorrow night. Dyh: no matter how strong team you have unless you have some luck you're not going to succeed. Fortunately despite some set backs in early period had very good luck - had extraordinarily good team Sherpas and Sahibs alike. "We consider ourselves extremely lucky". Doody: "this a milestone in mountaineering history." Trip in took up abut 1 month to base camp. We can make it out in 10-12 days - really in 5 days but have to wait for porters. Siri: scientific work has gone exceeding by well - find results 6-9 months from now - at higher altitude than others research done before. Dhy on 2nd day out of KTM decided West Ridge ascent worth much more than Lhotse and Nuptse - happy blend of science and mountaineering. "We have climbed the mountain and we feel very good about it." Dr Jerstad, Bishop, Unsoeld, Hornbein and Sherpas C2 tonight. This now being relayed by Unsoeld from C4 to base. Hope reach C2 8 or 8:30 this evening - in good shape. Unsoeld says this his last Himalayan climb in message to wife. Plan to evacuate C2 tomorrow am. C2 just now (6:10 pm) reported by radio to base. J. Roberts is at C2 supervising evacuation of mountain by Sherpas (8-9 arrive today with big loads). Final broadcast from base tomorrow. Radio in apt 24 May Summiters on way to base. J. Roberts arrive from C1 today - yesterday just below C1 broken up spot and fell apart - put in 75-100 ft traverse at 45 degree angle - fortunate happened now when people only going down because impossible go up it. Summiters have left C2, delayed by above spot - are coming down icefall. Gil Roberts had contact with Dingman coming down now. *Unsoeld and Bishop have severe frostbite. All but injured walking out - if walk will lose some toes; must be flown out. Getting these men to Namche would be ordeal. Helicopter waited closer to base camp if possible - arrive 26 May be at Periche. (9 am contact with KTM) Found party by Stebbins for expedition - HMs to be invited. Summiters did not get to C2 till almost 10:30 last night. Unsoeld and Bishop will be carried from base down. All summiters fingers Ok; not to reach Banepa till 9 June at earliest. Busy packing up and waiting for people above return to base. Dyh: please do not forget supporters; never would have put camp at 27,200 on West Ridge and never would have reached summit without them. All summiters and support people will be at base within one hour, walkie-talkie says now at 5:40 pm, Radio in apt - 25 May Hornbein, Bishop speaking from base camp - Unsoeld sleeping. Ullman says pilot opposed trying go higher than Namche (12,400 ft at Namche Dyh says, Thyangboche 13,000 ft). Dyh says Thyangboche 26 May or Namche 28 May. -15 degrees but no wind on bivouac - had already run out of oxygen; didn't get any till met Dingman and Girmi Dorje came up. Bishop spent night at 28,000; -18 degrees F, no wind 10-15 mph if winds had been as in day (50-70) we would not be talking to you. Out of oxygen till Dingman and Girme came up to help. Bishop and Jerstad beards [??] buried at C6 - hence late start. Hornbein: on West Ridge, part of time on North Face and rock was typical of North Face (down sloping and very rotten), generally pretty unpleasant climbing except last stage on snowfield. Unsoeld: I am getting warmer and maybe it is all for the best. Starting from base camp down now - helicopter to Thyang 27 May or Namche 28 May. Special appeal to get men out as quickly as possible. Dingman says they will be all right. US flag still flying when summit reached by summiters. West Ridgers found it sight for sore eyes. 26 May Radio contact (Manpac) very bad; assume Expedition requesting helicopter tomorrow not Tuesday. 27 May Dr's report: general condition excellent, no weight loss or dehydration, only exhausted except frostbite: minimum frostbite of some fingers, frostbite of all 10 toes each. Meanwhile symptartic treatment being give but not surgery. Contemplates rheotran onto frostbite not here yet both have chest pains from piggy back video. Jerstad carried down as preventive and for first time few days below at Namche will ride horse; talking from Namche today - 7 June from Rising. Next fixed radio contact at 17:00 hours - arrive Banepa and KTM 9 June. (check Ullman Wed 5 pm for med bulletin). 7 June Auten from Chanbas. Japanese party on Numbur - 4 Japanese climbers on Numbur - 4 climbers successful about 29 May or 30 22,800 ft peak. 10 am at Banepa 9 June. Jerstad doing very well. Ullman - 24 May West Ridge difficulties: strata slopes downward giving effect of shingled roof in yellow band. 4th degree climbing and use of pitons indicates steep rock climbing which is not encountered on col route. On West Ridge band occurs just below 28,000 (lower on Lhotse Face where not as steep - 25,500 ft - maybe 100 ft of it). French traverse - see Tiger of Snows by Tenzing and Ullman - Chapter "The Sacred Mountain". Maps - see Hunt's Ascent of Everest map. Arrive Tibetan side at most 100 ft between C3 and C4 W - maybe again higher. Pix - 27 May 1. Mrs Unsoeld (glasses) and Mrs Bishop awaiting helicopter outside hospital (Shanta Bhawan) compound (hospital in background) where helicopter to land with their husbands. Shanta Bhawan - 27 May Dr Robert Berry, Aldano, PA in charge of case. Walked slowly with some effort - Unsoeld cracked lip but twinkle in eye - have not had food and sleep for "some time." Arrived 9:12 am NST. 1-7 sitting on steps outside emergency room of hospital with wives where held brief press conference. Press Conf: some blue-black finger nails. Unsoeld: "Were pretty tired and no breakfast yet." "would like to emphasize it was a group effort - a perfect team which had highest characteristics of cooperation among all members of expedition." We carried out plans as they had been formulated and did to as a team - involved cooperation between 2 parties of South Col and West Ridge without which might not have returned at all. Bishop: "he envisioned even since left Kathmandu possibility of putting 2 teams on summit by 2 routes", not last minute decision. South Col route climbed by 2 previous expeditions British and Swiss. We had a time table of trying to put several ropes up South Col route up by early May and able put Whit and Gombo on 1 May but not others because of logistic problems and weather; so all withdrew to base and rested. Moved up again with log support and coordination with magnificient work being down on West Ridge by Unsoeld and his party. Set 22 May as assault date after storm 19 May. Wanted support from West Ridge and give it to them in belief they would have to traverse. Unsoeld: on West Ridge recon completed 17 April, but long difficult, unable progress have till at least 1 month. Plan to have South Col party support us; involved again team work whole expedition characterized by. Party had to wait for West Ridge team get its position when they themselves ready to go up. Was did have one storm which below is different mountain and looked very unlikely get to top and abandoned idea 2 teams up from West Ridge got strong Sherpa support and put everything into effort. All good Sherpas down to base. Bishop: C1 Sherpas reaches C6 a record for Sherpa performance. Unsoeld: carried from 25,000 ft to 27,100 in one day, put up one little tent, 1 stove and 1 found 1 box. Hornbein and I took one next day and went to summit - met South Col group but unable find C6. Bishop: support party of Dingman and Girme Dorje Unsoeld have gone to summit on 23 May if not had to support us - great credit goes to them to in this 2nd summit assault. Unsoeld: matched on West Ridge by Emerson, Auten and Corbet who were responsible for carry to high camp and stood by in case in had to come back killing their chance for summit. Bishop: big thrill from this expedition was team work and integration of personalities to common goal. Unsoeld: this integration of personality not easy to achieve but in this case was accomplished - no one left on outside of team. Unsoeld bivouac: all out of oxygen and Tom and I later by 2 hours at rendezvous - way off in dark in wind and snow. So Hornbein and Unsoeld wanted to bivouac but kept going down and voices closer and then 2 blues appeared in darkness and fell into crevasse and voice sound Ges that it you're almost there - found not Dingman but Bishop and Jerstad who had heard voices way off and stopped to wait for them. Would 2 hours "which is quite a sacrifice." All went down together very very tired trying find C6 but finally picked out a rocky patch and layed down on it. "Did not dig or anything else - tried kick feet but kicked each other - very casual type bivouac" - around 28,000 ft. Bishop: once light came Bishop and Jerstad found way down towards C6 and coming up were Dingman and Dorje. Unsoeld and Hornbein went on ahead of Bishop and Jerstad - saw 2 coming up and waiting for them. 2 expecting to recover bodies of Bishop and Jerstad and asked Unsoeld and Hornbein "what you doing here?" Spent 2 hours at C6 - am down to C2 all in one day - late at night at C2. Next day to base camp after dark. Next am left base "everything just went - Barry and I were riding over moraine on backs of men." Did 3 days march to Pheriche by that night; yesterday were to go Thyangboche but it was decided should go on and ended up late last night at Namche. This morning served tea at 6:25 and at 6:30 helicopter arrived. Biv at base of South Summit. Unsoeld: were feeling tired but otherwise fine - can't feel frostbite. Bishop carried so not to be bruised. Unsoeld: from summit could see plains of Tibet with snowy islands sticking out - did not find bust - one of great sights was American flags. Bishop: wind had not frayed flag off picket; tattered Unsoeld: carried up crucifix given by Wash priest on 1st recon on S approach to Everest. Unsoeld also fasted and 2 prayer flags to scarf of Sherpas and left there on top also - tracks of 1 May ascent there. Both wearing dark green trouser into huge boots - grey small checked wool shirts. Wylie about condition of Bishop and Unsoeld: "I want to see what's under under those boots". Spoke very coherently. Dr. Berry - 27 May pm Will be hospitalized for matter of weeks he expects, whether here or in US - impossible to tell now whether will lose toes; has frostbite in all 20 toes but in very good general condition (little loss of weight). Physiotherapy twice/day: water mildly circulating to cleanse feet. Dr. Eldred D. Mundth arrived. In Navy - Naval Med Res Institute at Bethesda - doing residence in frostbite intensively for past 5-6 mos - low molecular weight Dextran; Pharmaceutical of Upsulla Swed (has with him also). Michin M. Payne, executive VP of Mog and Soe - Secy for comittee of Res and Exploration - Bethesda Statement by Berry - 29 May The general condition of Everest climbers Unsoeld and B Bishop continues good. With regard to their frostbite injuries it is still too early to evaluate the full extent of their injuries. However there has been marked improvement in the condition of their injuries and they are responding to their present therapy. Today they received whirlpool therapy for the first time. The climbers have had the benefit of consultation with Dr. E. D. Mundth who is a specialist in the field of cold injury and association with the Naval Med Res Institute in Bethesda, Maryland. Dr. Mundth arrived in Kathmandu today. Further studies are in progress. Payne: haven't decided whether use Dextran or not; will decide presumably tomorrow; expender with unique property of increasing peripheral flow. Statement by Drs. Berry and Mundth - 31 May The general condition of the 2 members of the Mt. Everest expedition Mr. Barry Bishop and Mr. William Unsoeld remains good. There continues encouraging improvement in both. Yesterday intravenous therapy having low molecular weight Dextran was started and is being continued. A further shipment of the drug has arrived from the US. Whirlpool treatment and physiotherapy are being continued. Dr. Berry and Dr. Mundth stated that it would be impossible to make any prediction as to the ultimate prognosis of the affected toes for another one to two weeks. Ullman - 31 May Nepalese Sherpas to US: Girmi Dorje - who was with Bishop on 1st summit attempt and Ringma Ile Tsering who was slightly involved in Breitenbach accident. Sherpas in tremendous carry to C5 W to 27,200 ft. Trip sponsored by American Everest Film, financed by US Dept of State Cultural Exchange Programme. Will do extensive traveling in 4-6 weeks in US and same mountain climbing in West. Its hoped they will be able leave for US same time as Expedition and travel with them across Europe. 6 June Medical report signed by Drs Berry and Mundth: "The general condition of the 2 climbers remains excellent. During post few days both have suffered a bout of fever which was unrelated to their frostbite and which was felt to be due to an upper respiratory infection and which responded promptly to therapy. The frostbite injuries daily show improvement. Then men have completed their course of therapy with the low molecular weight Dextran and it is felt that there was definite improvement of the blood flow to the toes. This was determined by skin temperature readings made on the areas of injury before and after the administration of the drug. Although it is still too early to finally determine the results of the injury and the amount of permanent damage which will be sustained, the Drs are hopeful that the amount of permanent tissue damage will not be extensive altitude is felt that the healing is progressing so well that the climbers will be able to travel if necessary within 2 weeks. This does not imply that within this period of time they will be working". Mundth returning to Washington and does not expect to return to US. Bishop plans to go to Wash end of June. When men can walk depends on whether surgery necessary because of damage to Bishops 5th fingers as well as toes considered here. Ullman - 6 June Members arrived this afternoon. Left expedition 6/2 march to Junbesi. Had tried radio contact with portable radio between Kathmandu, but not listening. Expect arrive Panchkal noon Sunday 9 June and Banepa 3-4 bours later. Jerstad with frostbitten carried by porters to Junbesi from 25 May and from base 28 May arrived Jungbesi 1 June. Hoped soon get horses for him. At Junbesi 2-20 porters still with expedition. Took high route 2nd day below Namche and rejoined old route about Junbesi. Nima Tsering, Nepal Sherpa also go to US. Unsoeld - 8 June 25 miles base to Namche extends stay KTM unless President Kennedy orders him back for meeting of Expedition with him with rest of Expedition - otherwise stay here take own Peace Corps duties soon as possible (almost certain take over as Dir of Corps in US). "I have now entered ranks of family climbing. I have no major expeditions wants to climb in back of mind. I have done four now and that's more than most get a crack at." "All returns not in yet but as of now yes it was worth it - don't know how many toes will lose but even if you lost all your toes it would still be worth it - this is an opportunity that cares so seldom in a man's lifetime." Bishop: About 20-22 June he and Lila will go directly to Washington - hospitalization probably not required in Washington. If I had known prior to climbing the mountain I would buffer this injury in climbing the mountain I would still have proceeded - sure it's worth it. When I can get around again I'd like to do some fun mountaineering with Lila - Tetons, Canadian Rockies or Alps where you can breathe even at the top and whole thing complete enjoyment. "An experience like Everest is something now wouldn't want to trade for anything but wouldn't want to repeat for anything - I've had one moment of truth and one is enough." * Willi Unsoeld Tom Hornbein summited Everest on 22 May route West Ridge-North Face up; SE Ridge down.
Accidents Breitenbach killed in Khumbu Icefall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2440204
Year 1963
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

27 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Allen Chapman Auten M 1926 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Assistant editor, Design News Details Other expeditions
Barry Chapman Bishop M 1932 USA Climber Washington, DC Photographer & geographer, National Geographic Society Details Other expeditions
John Edgar (Jake) Breitenbach M 1935 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming Alpine guide; part owner, skiing & mountaineering equipment shop Details Other expeditions
James Barry Corbet M 1936 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
David Lyons Dingman M 1936 USA Climber Baltimore, Maryland Physician Details Other expeditions
Daniel Edmund Doody M 1933 USA Cameraman Santa Monica, California Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Norman Guenter Dyhrenfurth M 1918 USA/Switzerland Leader Santa Monica, California Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Richard Marc (Dick) Emerson M 1925 USA Climber Cincinnati, Ohio Assistant professor of sociology, University of Cincinnati Details Other expeditions
Thomas Frederick Hornbein M 1930 USA Climber San Diego, California Physician (anesthesiologist) Details Other expeditions
Luther Gerald (Lute) Jerstad M 1936 USA Climber Eugene, Oregon Speech instructor, University of Oregon alpine guide Details Other expeditions
James T. Lester M 1928 USA Climber Berkeley, California Clinical psychologist Details Other expeditions
Maynard Malcolm Miller M 1921 USA Scientist East Lansing, Michigan Associate professor (glaciology, geomorphology, glacial geology) Details Other expeditions
Richard Frederick (Dick) Pownall M 1927 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Mathematics & PE instructor Details Other expeditions
Barry Wilfred Prather M 1939 USA Scientist Ellensburg, Washington Aeronautical engineer Details Other expeditions
Gilbert Jay Roberts M 1934 USA Climber Berkeley, California Physician Details Other expeditions
James Owen Merion Roberts M 1916 UK Climber Kathmandu Lt. Colonel, British Military Attache to Nepal Details Other expeditions
William E. Siri M 1919 USA Deputy Leader Richmond, California Physicist Details Other expeditions
James Ramsey Ullman M 1907 USA Climber Boston, Massachusetts Writer Details Other expeditions
William Francis (Willi) Unsoeld M 1926 USA Climber Corvallis, Oregon University professor of philosophy & religion, deputy director Details Other expeditions
James W. (Jim) Whittaker M 1929 USA Climber Redmond, Washington Manager, Recreational Equipment Inc, Seattle retail co-op Details Other expeditions
Ang Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Gombu Sherpa M 1936 India H-A Worker Darjeeling, India (from Solukhumbu) Instructor, Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Details Other expeditions
Girme Dorje Sherpa M 1935 Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tendi Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Gyatso Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Nindra Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

18 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER63101 AAJ Dyhrenfurth, Norman G. & Unsoeld, William F. Mount Everest, 1963 - 38:1-30 (1964) -
EVER63101 HJ Roberts, J. O. M. Transport and Sherpas on Mount Everest, 1963 - 24:35-40 (1962-63) -
EVER63101 HJ Dyhrenfurth, Norman G. & Unsoeld, William F. Mount Everest, 1963 - 25:3-31 (1964) -
EVER63101 AJ Roberts, J. O. M. Transport and Sherpas on Mount Everest, 1963 - 68:237-242 (Nov 1963) -
EVER63101 AJ Dyhrenfurth, Norman G. Americans on Everest, 1963 - 69:1-22 (May 1964) -
EVER63101 MW Unsoeld, William F. The West Ridge of Everest - 56-66 (1964-65) -
EVER63101 - Ullman, James Ramsey Americans on Everest J. P. Lippincott, Philadelphia - U25
EVER63101 - McCallum, John D. & Jerstad, Luther Everest Diary Follett, Chicago - M259
EVER63101 - Hornbein, Thomas F. Everest: The West Ridge Sierra Club, San Francisco - H418
EVER63101 MM - - - 8:7 (Mar 1970) -
EVER63101 NGS Dyhrenfurth, Norman Six to the Summit National Geographic Magazine 124-4:460-476 (Oct 1963) -
EVER63101 NGS Bishop, Barry How We Climbed Everest National Geographic Magazine 124-4:477-508 (Oct 1963) -
EVER63101 NGS Hornbein, Tom & Unsoeld, Willi The First Traverse National Geographic Magazine 124-4:509-513 (Oct 1963) -
EVER63101 - Nickel, Andreas Himalaya, Norman Dyhrenfurth AS Verlag, Zurich - -
EVER63101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/25/2/mount-everest-1963/ - - -
EVER63101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/24/5/transport-and-sherpas-on-mount-everest-1963/ - - -
EVER63101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1964_files/AJ%201964%201-22%20Dyhrenfurth%20Everest.pdf - - -
EVER63101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1963_files/AJ%201963%20237-242%20Roberts%20Transport%20&%20Sherpas%20on%20Mt.Everest.pdf - - -