Everest | 1938 E Rongbuk Glacier-N Col
A UK expedition to Everest in 1938 via E Rongbuk Glacier-N Col, led by H. W. Tilman. Summit reached on 11th June 1938. 23 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2743 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER38101 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1938 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | E Rongbuk Glacier-N Col |
| Route 2 | Main Rongbuk Glacier-N Col-N Face |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | H. W. Tilman |
| Sponsor | - |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1938-04-09 |
| Summit Date | 1938-06-11 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 63 |
| Total Days | 66 |
| Termination Date | 1938-06-14 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8300m due to deep snow |
| High Point (m) | 8350 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 7 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 16 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(09/04,5000m),C1(13/04,5400m),C2(18/04,6035m),C3(26/04,6550m),C4(28/05,7000m),xxx; Lake-Camp(5485m),NFace-Camp(5790m),WSide-Camp(6550m),C4(05/06,7000m),C5(06/06,7800m),C6(08/06,8300m),xxx(11/06,8350m) |
| Route Notes | - |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2431089 |
| Year | 1938 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | e rongbuk glacier-n col |
Members
23 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Harold William Tilman | M | 1898 | UK | Leader | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Lloyd | M | 1907 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Noel Ewart Odell | M | 1890 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Roderick Oliver | M | 1909 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Eric Earle Shipton | M | 1907 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Francis Sydney (Frank) Smythe | M | 1900 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Charles Buchanan Moncur Warren | M | 1906 | UK | Exp Doctor | - | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Dawa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Karma Sherpa | M | 1913 | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Tharkay Sherpa | M | 1908 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Khunde, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Tshering (Da Tshering) Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gyalgen Sherpa | M | 1918 | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kusang Namgyal Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa | M | 1915 | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lobsang Sherpa | M | 1909 | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nukku Sherpa | M | 1910 | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nurbu Bhutia | M | - | India | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Bhutia | M | - | India | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Phurba Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Rinzing (Rinsing) Bhutia | M | - | India | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Sonam Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tenzing Norgay | M | 1914 | India | H-A Worker | Darjeeling, India | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Wangdi Nurbu (Ongdi) Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER38101 | - | Tilman, H. W. | Mount Everest 1938 | Cambridge University Press, Cambridge | - | T163 |
| EVER38101 | AJ | Tilman, H. W. | Mt. Everest, 1938 | - | 51:3-17 (1939) | - |
| EVER38101 | AJ | Lloyd, P. | Oxygen on Mt. Everest, 1938 | - | 51:85-88 (1939) | - |
| EVER38101 | AJ | Finch, G. I. | Oxygen and Mt. Everest | - | 51:89-90 (1939) | - |
| EVER38101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12193937302/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Mt-Everest | - | - | - |
| EVER38101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1939_files/AJ51%203-17%20Tilman%20Everest%201938.pdf | - | - | - |
| EVER38101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1939_files/AJ51%2085-90%20Lloyd%20Oxygen%20on%20Mt%20Everest.pdf | - | - | - |