Everest | 1921 W, N & E sides

A UK expedition to Everest in 1921 via W, N & E sides, led by C. K. Howard-Bury. Summit reached on 24th September 1921. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2736
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER21101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1921
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 W, N & E sides
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders C. K. Howard-Bury
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach Sikkim->Chumbi Valley->Tibet
Basecamp Date 1921-06-26
Summit Date 1921-09-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 90
Total Days 96
Termination Date 1921-09-30
Termination Reason 12
Termination Notes Reconnaissance
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 21
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/06),ABC(29/06),xxx(24/09,7000m)
Route Notes -
Accidents Kellas and 1 porter died on approach march
Achievement Reached N Col at 7000m
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2424968
Year 1921
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w, n & e sides

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Charles Kenneth Howard-Bury M 1883 UK Leader Mullingar, Westmeath, Ireland - Details Other expeditions
Alexander Frederick Richmond Wollaston M 1875 UK Exp Doctor - Physician Details Other expeditions
Alexander MacMillan Heron M 1884 UK Scientist - Geologist Details Other expeditions
Harold Andrew Raeburn M 1865 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
George Herbert Leigh Mallory M 1886 UK Climber Godalming, Surrey, England Schoolmaster at Charterhouse Details Other expeditions
Edward Oliver Wheeler M 1890 Canada Climber - Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Guy Henry Bullock M 1887 UK Climber - Consulor Service Details Other expeditions
Henry Treise Morshead M 1882 UK Surveyor - Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Alexander Mitchell Kellas M 1868 UK Member - - Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - India Porter - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Garong Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Lagay Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER21101 - Howard-Bury, Charles K. Mount Everest, The Reconnaissance 1921 Edward Arnold, London - H433
EVER21101 AJ - The Everest Expedition, 1921: Diary of G. H. Bullock (I) - 67:130-149 (May 1962) -
EVER21101 AJ - The Everest Expedition, 1921: Diary of G. H. Bullock (II) - 67:291-309 (Nov 1962) -
EVER21101 HJ Blakeney, T. S. A. R. Hinks and the First Everest Expedition, 1921 - 31:3-18 (1971) -
EVER21101 AJ Blakeney, T. S. The First Steps Towards Mount Everest - 76:43-69 (1971) -
EVER21101 AJ Howard-Bury, C. K. The Mount Everest Expeditions, 1921 - 34:195-250 (1921-1922) -
EVER21101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/2/a-r-hinks-and-the-first-everest-expedition-1921/ - - -
EVER21101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1971_files/AJ%201971%2043-69%20Blakeney%20Everest.pdf - - -
EVER21101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1962_files/AJ%201962%20130-149%20Bullock%20Everest%201921.pdf - - -
EVER21101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1962_files/AJ%201962%20291-309%20Bullock%20Everest%201921%20Pt%202.pdf - - -