Everest | 2018 S Col-SE Ridge

A Brazil expedition to Everest in 2018 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Carlos Santalena. Summit reached on 19th May 2018. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9821
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER18124
Peak ID EVER
Year 2018
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Brazil
Leaders Carlos Santalena
Sponsor Brazilian Grade6 Everest Expedition 2018
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia
Approach Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
Basecamp Date 2018-04-15
Summit Date 2018-05-19
Summit Time 0845
Summit Days 34
Total Days 38
Termination Date 2018-05-23
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19-20/05)
Route Notes BC 14/04 5350m C1 21/04 5900m C2 01/05 6440m C3 17/05 7000m C4 18/05 7900m Smt 19/05 by Franke Salco and Lama Tenji at 9:30 am Smt 20/05 by Ling at 7:30 am, Zangaro Renato and Ayesha, Santalena, Pemba Rita, Anup Gurung, Damai Sarki Sherpa, 7:43 am. Team reached C4 at 6:30 pm on 18/05. The Zangaro's and Santalena knew that they would be too exhausted to climb the following day, so they decided to stay. When they reached C4 they realized that six bottles of oxygen were missing. They radioed to BC and the agency managed to get six bottles from Lhotse C4 (from Madison Mountaineering). Franke Salco, Ling, Lama Tenji, Phura Gyalgen left C4 at 9:40 am. After one hour Ling turned back with Phura Gyalgen as he said it was too windy. Franke Salco and Lama Tenzing continued to the summit. They descended to C4, where they stayed the night. 20/05 Summit team and Kriger left C4 at 7 pm on 19/05. Straightforward climb. No traffic jams. They spent about 25 minutes on the summit. On the way down Renato Zangaro noticed he had frostbite on his left thumb. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm. Kriger reached 8050m, but he felt dizzy and thought he had HACE and turned back. He rested at C4 and continued to C2 later that day on 20/05. On 20/05 he was flown from C2 to BC. On 21/05 the second summit team reached C2. Renato Zangaro was heli-vaced from C2 due to frostbite on his left thumb. It is 3rd degree and will be fine. When Zangaro was picked up by by helicopter on 21/05 at 5 pm, Damai Sarki was at the heli-pad. He was on his knees trying to direct the helicopter, but the wind must have pushed him into a crevasse. The crevasse was not very wide, but 50 metres deep. At first nobody noticed that Damai Sarki was gone. Willie Benegas descended into the crevasse and attached him to a rope and the others pulled him up. He was very beaten up, but still alive. Maurizio Fiolini (helicopter pilot) picked him up and wanted to fly him to Kathmandu, but weather was too bad so they brought him to Khunde hospital where he died at 10 pm. Everyone took helicopter apart on 23/05 from Franke Salco, who walked to Lukla. Sherpas: Damai Sarki, Jubing-5, Khumbu, 08/01/1988 Lama Tenji (used to work for Adventure Consultants) Pemba Rita, Beding, Dolakha, 31/08/1979 Anup Gurung, Swara-5, Gorkha 26/03/1989 Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas and members. Willi Benagas account of Damai Sarki's crevasse fall on 21/05: According to Willie Benegas, Damai Sarki was directing the helicopter who had landed in line with a crevasse right next to it. When he stepped back he fell into the crevasse, which was about body-width. It was about 5 pm. This differs from Santalena's account who said that Damai Sarki was on his knees and blown into the crevasse by the force of the wind of the helicopter. Nobody really noticed that he was gone. The Sherpas tried to fish him out with a rope, but that did not work. Damian and Willie set up the anchor, Willie descended into the crevasse and brought him up. The helicopter was already waiting (Maurizio Folini) and Willie flew out of C2 with Damai Sarki directly to Namche. They went to hospital, but he could not be saved, Willie thinks he stopped breathing at about 10:45 pm.
Accidents Damai Sarki Sherpa (fatal crevasse fall) at C2
Achievement Youngest Brazilian to summit Everest
Agency Himalayan Ascent (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461626
Year 2018
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Carlos Eduardo Santalena M 1986 Brazil Leader Campinas, Sao Paulo, Brazil Tourist guide Details Other expeditions
Henrique Franke Salco M 1989 Brazil Climber Santa Rosa, Brazil Engineer Details Other expeditions
Joel Szmelsztayn Kriger M 1953 Brazil Climber Curitiba, Brazil Import business Details Other expeditions
Paul Richard Ling M 1967 Australia Climber Mawson Lakes, SA, Australia Director of building company Details Other expeditions
Renato Zangaro Amaro M 1958 Brazil Climber Jambeiro, Brazil Engineer Details Other expeditions
Ayesha Zangaro Melo F 1994 Brazil Climber Jambeiro, Brazil Dancer Details Other expeditions
Anup Gurung M 1989 Nepal H-A Worker Swara-5, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions
Damai Sarki Sherpa M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Jubing-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Rita Sherpa M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Phurwa Tenji (Lama Tenji) Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Khiraule, Bung-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER18124 - - http://www.extremos.com.br/online/2018/everest/ - - -
EVER18124 - - http://www.grade6viagens.com.br/expedicao-everest-cume-19-05-2018/ - - -