Everest | 2017 S Col-SE Ridge
A Spain expedition to Everest in 2017 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Fernando Latorre. Summit reached on 20th May 2017. 31 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 9446 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER17104 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 2017 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Spain |
| Leaders | Fernando Latorre |
| Sponsor | Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2017 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Austria, Bulgaria, Chile, France, India, Iran, Morocco, Norway, Pakistan, Peru, Romania, S Korea, USA |
| Approach | Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC |
| Basecamp Date | 2017-04-12 |
| Summit Date | 2017-05-20 |
| Summit Time | 0520 |
| Summit Days | 38 |
| Total Days | 47 |
| Termination Date | 2017-05-29 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 23 |
| Summit Members | 11 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 8 |
| Summit Hired | 5 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | True |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC((12/04,5350m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(20-21,23,27/05) |
| Route Notes | The Seven Summit Treks Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Seven Summit Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below: Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria) Name: Vegan Expedition Everest + Lhotse BC 15/04 5400m C1 26/04 6000m C2 27/04 6500m C3 14/05 7200m C4 15/05 7800m (Lhotse C4) Smt 16/05 by Skatov at 5:30 pm (Lhotse) C4 22/05 7950m (S Col) Smt 23/05 by Skatov and Pasang 5 am, by Lhakpa Dendi at 5:10 am (Everest). On Lhotse summit push Skatov left C4 at 8 am. It was warm, good weather. Skatov's Sherpa Lhakpa Dendi turned around after 50m from C4, Skatov continued alone. At noon he had a problem, his regulator did not work properly and he continued to the summit with a very low oxygen rate. He felt pain in his back, maybe caused by low oxygen. He stayed on the top for 30 minutes, weather and view were perfect. He descended to C4 reaching it at 8:15 pm. He reached the South Col with Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa on the same day at 11:15 pm. But on the South Col the wind started to increase and they returned to C4 on Lhotse. At midnight they arrived at the camp. On 18 May they descended to C2, staying there for 3 nights. On 21 May Skatov and Lhakpa Dendi went from C2 to C3. A new Sherpa (Pasang) arrived to support them. On 22 May they ascended to C4 (South Col). At 7:30 pm Skatov and Pasang started their summit push. Lhakpa Dendi followed them a little bit later. Pasang and Skatov reached the summit of Everest at 5 am (23 May). They stayed on the top for 35 minutes. It was very cold and windy. Lhakpa reached the summit 10 minutes after Skatov and Pasang. Skatov descended alone as he was faster than Pasang and Lhakpa Dendi and didn't want to wait for them. Lhakpa Dendi slept at C4, Skatov went down to C2, reaching the camp at 6 pm. On 24 May Skatov reached BC and left 25 May be helicopter. Skatov is vegan. Oxygen: Taken and used by Skatov and Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa from C3 to Lhotse summit and back to C4. On Everest from C3 to summit and down to C4 by Skatov and Lhakpa Dendi; by Pasang from C3 to summit and down to C4. Sherpas: Lhakpa Dendi, Gudel-9, Solukhumbu, 22/11/1974 Pasang Bouchra Baibanou (Morocco) Camps: BC(18/04,5350mm),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7200m), C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(21/05) Left: 24/05/17 by helicopter Hired: 0 Term: Success at 9 am. Baibanou and Pasang left C4 around 8 pm on 20 May. It was very cold and windy (50 km/h). They stayed on the summit for 20 minutes. On the summit she took off her oxygen mask to take some pictures and immediately felt dizzy. Pasang put on her mask again and her condition improved again. They descended back to C4, reaching it at 4 pm. Next day they went down to C2. They got back to BC on 23 May. Baibanou got frostbite on both hands on summit day. According to doctor it will be Okay after a few weeks. No amputation, but damaged tissue. Oxygen: Taken and used by Baibanou and Pasang from C3 to summit and back to C3. Sherpa: Pasang, Makalu Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4. Mehdi Gholipour (Iran) Camps: BC(12/04,5350mm),C1(6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7100m), C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05) Left: 24/05/17 Hired: 0 Term: Success at 5:20 am. Gholipour left C4 at 9 pm on 19 May. Straightforward climb. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he stayed the night. Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4. Vibeke Andrea Sefland (Norway) Camps: BC(15/04,5350mm),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(06/05,7100m) LhotC4(15/05,7800m),LhotSmt(16/05); EverC4(21/05,7900m),EverSmt(23/05) Left: 25/05/17 by helicopter Hired: 2 Term: Lhotse success on 16 May at 5:52 pm by Sefland and Temba Bhote Everest success on 23 May at 11 am by Sefland and Pasang Sherpa Lhotse summit team left C2 at 8 am as the rope-fixing Sherpas were in front of them. They caught up with the rope-fixing Sherpas at about 8200m. The weather was calm and warm, so waiting for the Sherpas was not too bad. There were 17 people on the route (including rope-fixing Sherpas). They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 pm. The following day they went to C2. They spent three nights at C2. On 20 May the Everest summit team went back to C3 and 21 May to C4. On 21 May they left C4 at 8 pm and after they had climbed for about 4 hours, they heard on the radio that a Pakistani (Bhatti) and his Sherpa were in trouble and had called for help. They discussed it and cancelled their summit push for Temba to help rescue. Sefland went back to C4. On 22 May Temba and a group of other Sherpas came back to C4. A doctor of Madison Mountaineering injected Dex into him and even though she said that he was about 5% alive, he was back talking again after 3 hours. As Temba was sort of organizing this rescue, he said to Sefland that he would no longer go to the summit with her, but organise another Sherpa. On 22 May Sefland and Pasang (he was on the Everest rope-fixing team on 15 May) left C4 at 9:30 pm. It was very windy, Sefland thought it would have been too windy, but Madison Mountaineering had a big team going up there, so she trusted that it would be ok. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and then descended to C4. When she got to the South Summit Sefland noticed that she had developed slight HAPE, so she was very aware of this. When she arrived there at about 4 pm, she rested a bit, got an injection of dexamethasone and then took nifidepine in pills. They arrived at C2 at 10:30 pm. On 24 May she descended to BC. Oxygen: Lhotse: from C3 to summit to C4 by Sefland and Temba Everest: from C3 to summit to BC by Sefland (due to slight HAPE) from C4 to summit to C2 by Pasang Sherpas: Temba Bhote, Takhola, Makalu-Barun, 19/03/1982 Pasang Sherpa [Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun, 01/12,91?] Victor Rimac (Peru) Camps: BC(25/04,5350mm),C1(6100m),C2(30/04,6500m),C3(07/05,7100m), C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(21/05) Left: 24/05/17 by helicopter Hired: 1 Term: Success at 1 pm. On 30 April he wanted to go to C3, but then he heard that Ueli Steck had fallen and at about 11 am he went over there with Mehdi from Iran and two Sherpas, who were aspirant mountain guides. They collected Ueli's body parts and put him in a body bag, which was them picked up by helicopters. He stayed at C2 for another night and descended to BC on 1 May. On 5 May hack to C2, he spent one night there and two nights at C3. On 9 May he tagged 7500m and returned to BC the same day. Rimac got to C4 on 19 May and intended to summit on 20 May. However, weather was bad and he felt tired, so he stayed. He left for summit at 7 pm on 20 May. Many people on the route. It was cold and windy. He walked past the dying American who was on the Balcony, but he was beyond help, so he carried on. He spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 5 pm. He was very tired. On 22 May he descended to C2 and on 23 May BC. Oxygen: Not taken, not used. David Snow (USA) Larry Daugherty (USA) Brandon Fisher (USA) Tom Wilkinson (USA) Camps: BC(25/04,5350mm),C1(01/05,6050m),C2(02/05,6700m),C3(15/05,7000m), C4(16/05,7900m),xxx(17/05,8700m) Left: 18/05/17 Hired: ? Term: Abandoned at 8700m due to bad weather We were told the weather would turn bad with heavy winds at 7 am. We were approaching the South Summit at 4:30 am and the Sherpas said they just got a bad weather report and needed to turn due to heavy winds. So we listened to the Sherpas and turned. Wilkinson turned around at 8400m due to fatique. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3. Sherpas: Serky [Tarke?] Sherpa Pasang Sherpa Danu Sherpa Ferran Latorre (Spain) Camps: BC(23/04,5350mm),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(15/05,7200m), C4(16/05,26/05,7900m),Smt(27/05) Left: 30/05/17 by helicopter Hired: 1 Term: Success Latorre touched C4 on 16 May. Latorre left C4 at 11 pm. He intended to go without oxygen, however, after about one hour he decided to put on the oxygen of his Sherpa, Dawa Sange. At 8600m on the balcony at 4 am, Dawa Sange was worried that there was not enough oxygen, so he gave Latorre the second bottle and descended. Latorre used only one litre per minute. He spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 1 pm. On his way down he crossed Hans Wenzl at the South Summit. When he got to C4, he was waiting for Hans to come down. He got back at 6:30 pm. Yannick Graziani also left C4 at midnight. He got to 8500m and turned back due to cold feet. He returned to C4 to wait for Latorre and Wenzl. When Latorre arrived, he said Graziani should go down as he was without oxygen. On 28 May Wenzl and Latorre descended to BC. Oxygen: Taken and used from 8050m to top to C4 by Latorre. Sherpa: Dawa Sange Yannick Graziani (France) Camps: BC(19/04,5350mm),C1(24/04,6050m),C2(25/04,6450m),C3(03/05,7200m), C4(26/05,7900m),xxx(27/05,8550m) Left: 28/05/17 Hired: 0 Term: Abandoned at 8550m due to bad weather On summit day, poor weather conditions stopped him at the Balcony. Felt fit enough to make it. Despite a new expected good weather window coming on 4,5,6 of June, he didn't want to try it again as Icefall Doctors would have left the mountain prior to that new window. Graziani offered Ueli Steck to try for Nuptse together, the Scott route looking in good conditions. But as it would demand a few days for Graziani to obtain a permit (when Steck already had it), Steck eventually preferred to try it alone straight. Conditions had been excellent since a month and it would remain in such way for 5 more days. Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Martina Bauer (Austria) Johann Wenzl (Austria) Camps: BC(19/04,5350mm),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(09/05,7100m), C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(27/05) Left: 26/05 (Bauer) and 29/05/17 (Wenzl) Hired: 1 Term: Success Wenzl started his summit push at C4 at 9:30 pm on 26 May. Weather was bad, quite windy. He summited at 12:45 pm and stayed on the summit for 20 minutes. At 5:30 pm he was back at C4. On 28 May he was back at BC. Bauer, Wenzl and Min Dukpa reached C4 on 19 May. The weather forecast was good for this night, but it was very windy. They were already struggling to get to C4. They pitched their tent, which was very difficult in this wind. Min Dukpa did not have a sleeping bag, so they spent an uncomfortable and cold night. During the night they were discussing what to do and decided to descend to C2 the following day. Wenzl to BC. On 21 May Bauer descended to BC. She would have liked to do another attempt, but she was told by Seven Summit Treks that there was no more oxygen. She was very disappointed. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point to 7500m by Bauer and Min Dukpa Wenzl did not use oxygen. Abdul Bhatti (Pakistan) Saad Mohammed (Pakistan) Camps: BC(25/04,5400mm),C2(27/05,6500m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(21/05) Left: 24/05/2017 Hired: 6 Term: Success at in morning. Bhatti and Sange left C4 at 7 pm on 20 May. At the Balcony they replaced their old oxygen with fresh oxygen bottles. They felt good at that point. Suddenly the weather deteriorated, a lot of wind, freezing their oxygen masks and goggles. Sange wanted to turn around, but Bhatti insisted to continue to the summit. They summited on 21 May in the morning. They spent 5 minutes on the summit, Sange felt dizzy and was not able to see clearly. They ran out of oxygen and Bhatti was descending very slowly. It got dark and they rested after a long descent near the Balcony. Sange tried to talk to Bhatti, but he didn't answer and seemed to be unconscious. They had no food or water. Sange fell asleep as well, he woke up again by the noise of ascending climbers. His hands were completely frozen, he couldn't move his body. Seven Summit Treks organized a rescue team of six Sherpas led by Temba Bhote from C3. Ang Tsering Sherpa and Nima Gyalzen (Sherpa Khangri) were the first to reach Bhatti and Sange in the morning on 22 May. They moved them down to C4. Bhatti and Sange were near death. They were stuck at C4 for a while because of bad weather. Next day on 23 May they moved Bhatti with great difficulty from C4 to C3. On 24 May Bhatti was brought from C3 to BC by helicopter. And Sange was left at C3 for one night on his own, according to Nima Gyalzen. Mohammed was acclimatizing very slowly. He only made it to C3. When he heard that his partner Bhatti was in trouble, he decided to stay in C2 to coordinate the rescue and to not ascend any further. According to Mohammed, Sange was young and inexperienced: he didn't bring enough oxygen. Bhatti is in hospital in Kathmandu undergoing treatment. Oxygen: Taken and used by Bhatti and Sange from C3 to summit (they ran out of oxygen during the descent between the summit and the Balcony. Account by Nima Gyalzen on 1 June 2017: On the descent Nima Gyalzen, Ang Chhiring Lama, Jangbu Sherpa and Mingma Chhiri Sherpa at about 8700m they found Bhatti, the Pakistani, and Sange Sherpa at about 3 am. Bhatti was asleep and Dawa Sange Sherpa 95% dead. He had thrown off his gloves and oxygen and was hanging on the rope. Nima Gyalzen removed his oxygen and his spare mask and gave it to Bhatti and Dawa Sange Sherpa. Nima Gyalzen put both sick people on the rope and the four Sherpas dragged them down to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. There the doctor of IMG gave Bhatti and Sange Sherpa dexamethasone. On 23 May Seven Summit Sherpas brought them to C3, from where Bhatti was long-lined to BC and then to Kathmandu and Dawa Sange Sherpa was left at C3 on his own for the night. On 24 May he was brought down to C2 and heli-vaced to Kathmandu. Adrian Laza (Romania) Camps: BC(16/04,5350mm),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6200m),C3(29/04,7000m), C4(18/05,8000m),xxx(20/05,8750m) Left: 22/05/17 Hired: 1 Term: Abandoned due to frozen eyes, frozen hands, frozen feet. Laza and his Sherpa left South Col about 7:00 pm. There were so many climbers on that specific night; in Laza's opinion more than 200 including Sherpas. He got stuck several times for more than 30 minutes each time. About 2;30 am he reached the Balcony and about 4:30 am the South Summit and decided that it was safer to turn back; got back to C4 about 8:30 am, spent some time to de-freeze his face, hands and feet and descended straight to C2, where he arrived about 5:30 pm. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Seven Summit Treks |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2459956 |
| Year | 2017 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
31 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fernando (Ferran) Latorre Torres | M | 1970 | Spain | Leader | Sant Julin de Vilatorta, Barcelona, Spain | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas Franklin Wilkinson | M | 1977 | USA | Climber | Sandy, Utah | Pilot | Details Other expeditions |
| Roberto Fernando Moya Perez | M | 1968 | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Physician (anesthesiology) | Details Other expeditions |
| Larry Mah | M | 1955 | USA | Climber | California | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kuntal Kanrar | M | 1972 | India | Climber | West Bengal, India | - | Details Other expeditions |
| David Grant Snow | M | 1977 | USA | Climber | Kaysville, Utah | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Adrian Laza | M | 1963 | Romania | Climber | Piatra Neamt, Romania | Manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Vibeke Andrea Sefland | F | 1973 | Norway | Climber | Oslo, Norway | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Mohammed Sahabuddin | M | 1977 | India | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Martina Bauer | F | 1967 | Austria | Climber | Moedling, Lower Austria, Austria | Support sales agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Larry Calvin Daugherty | M | 1976 | USA | Climber | Eagle River, Alaska | Radiation oncologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Johann (Hans) Wenzl | M | 1970 | Austria | Climber | Metnitz, Carinthia, Austria | Construction site manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Brandon J. Fisher | M | 1977 | USA | Climber | Salt Lake City, Utah | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Victor Hugo Rimac Trejo | M | 1986 | Peru | Climber | Huaraz, Peru | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Lakpa Dendi Sherpa | M | 1974 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Gudel-9, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Temba Bhote | M | 1982 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pawakhola-7, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yannick Marcel Graziani | M | 1973 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Bhote | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ming Dukpa Sherpa | M | 1996 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Medhi Gholipour | M | 1982 | Iran | Climber | Tabriz, Iran | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Bouchra Baibanou | F | 1969 | Morocco | Climber | Sale, Morocco | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Phurba Sherpa | M | 1987 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Abdul Jabbar Bhatti | M | 1957 | Pakistan | Climber | Islamabad, Pakistan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Saad Mohammed | M | 1981 | Pakistan | Climber | Lahore, Pakistan | Self-employed in family business | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Sange Sherpa | M | 1995 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-3, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Atanas Georgiev Skatov | M | 1978 | Bulgaria | Climber | Sliven, Bulgaria | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Gyaljen Sherpa | M | 1995 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Sange Sherpa | M | 1985 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Daljinder Singh | M | 1973 | India | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Marcelo Barbour Grisi | M | 1977 | USA | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Young-Ho Heo | M | 1954 | S Korea | Climber | Hanam, Gyeonggi, S Korea | Explorer | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER17104 | - | - | http://2017everest.blogspot.com | - | - | - |
| EVER17104 | - | - | https://www.gofundme.com/HopeforSange | - | - | - |
| EVER17104 | - | - | https://www.facebook.com/alpinesange.sherpa | - | - | - |
| EVER17104 | - | - | http://www.mountainglobaltreks.com/en/about-details/?pid=734 | - | - | - |
| EVER17104 | - | - | http://www.uniindia.com/aarohan-wanderlust-announces-mountaineering-expeditions-to-mt-everest-and-mt-lhotse-starts-on-apr-20/election/news/843850.html | - | - | - |
| EVER17104 | - | - | http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/climbing-updates-on-8-thousanders-spring-2017 | - | - | - |