Everest | 2016 S Col-SE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Everest in 2016 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Alex Chicon (Alex Txikon). Summit reached on 14th February 2017. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9387
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER16401
Peak ID EVER
Year 2016
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Alex Chicon (Alex Txikon)
Sponsor Alex Txikon Everest Winter 2016/2017
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
Basecamp Date 2017-01-04
Summit Date 2017-02-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 41
Total Days 67
Termination Date 2017-03-12
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to high winds
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/01,5350m),C1(13/01,6050m),C2(15/01,6400m),C3(23/01,7100m),C4(04/02,7950m),xxx(14/02,8000m)
Route Notes BC 04/01 5350m C1 13/01 6050m C2 15/01 6400m C3 23/01 7100m C4 04/02 7950m by Chhiji Nurbu, Phurba, Nuri, Pemba Thinduk HPt 14/02 8000m by Chhiji Nurbu, Nuri, Chhepal, Pemba Thinduk, Txikon, Phurba. Nima Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa were Icefall doctors and fixed the route through the icefall together with Txikon's team of Sherpas. Txikon and Rubio also helped with the work in the icefall. They used 65 ice screws, 60 to 80 ladders and more than 6000m of rope from BC to South Col. Rubio reached C2 on 15 Jan. He was rescued by helicopter. He had attitude sickness. He spent two nights at hospital in Kathmandu and they found a problem with his lungs. He left Nepal on 20 Jan. The first time the team reached C4 was to set up the camp there and look at the conditions. The snow conditions were great on the mountain and the weather was good all the way through the expedition; however, winds were high. When Chhiji Nurbu, Phurba, Nuri and Pemba Thinduk reached C4 on 4 Feb Rubio had already left the expedition and Txikon stopped at about 7700m to do some filming. On 4 Feb, Txikon climbed from C2 to C4 [7700m?] and back to BC in 16 hours. On 10 Feb, Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon started again from BC to C2, where they spent a rest day on 11 Feb. On 12 Feb Nuri, Pemba Thinduk and Phurba climbed directly from BC to C2. On 13 Feb Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon left for C3 while the others rested at C2. On 14 Feb Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon started from C3 for the South Col at 4:15 am – it was too windy to start earlier. Pemba Thinduk, Nuri and Phurba started from C2 to reach C4. They left at midnight and met the others at the Yellow Band. The whole team reached the South Col at 3:30 pm. They descended after about 1-1/2 hours as it was simply too windy, about 70km/h. Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon descended to C3, Nuri, Phurba and Pemba Thinduk to C2. They were intending to summit on this rotation, but it was too windy and the weather forecast was too bad. On 15 Feb, everyone back at BC and on 16 Feb the team, flew back to Kathmandu. They spent 10 nights there and Nuri and Txikon returned to BC on 2 March. The rest of the team decided that they were too tired (or injured) and did not want to carry on. Pasang Norbu, Pemba Thinduk and Gyalzen of the Icefall doctors joined Nuri and Txikon for a final summit attempt. On 7 March, the team reached C2. Pemba Thinduk, Pasang Norbu and Gyalzen left BC at 6 am. This was the day Reinhold Messner visited BC, so Nuri and Txikon stayed at BC to welcome Messner and only left at 1:30 pm to go to C2. They spent two nights at C2, but it was very windy and the forecast was bad, so on 9 March they decided to finish the expedition. Even though Txikon had bought a permit for 65 days, the Nepal government decided that winter is finished on 4 March. They were told by the MoT to be back in Kathmandu no later than 8 March. They were lucky that Messner was there as he rang someone at the MoT and they allowed them to stay at BC until 16 March. Fixed rope: 6000m from BC to S Col. Oxygen: Used from 7800m by all Sherpas to high point and to Yellow Band on 14 Feb Txikon did not use oxygen. Sherpas above BC (1st team): Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu (with Eun-Sun Oh on Annapurna) Nuri Sherpa, Goli-7, Solukhumbu Chhepal Sherpa Pemba Thinduk Sherpa Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (with Carlos Soria on Dhaulagiri and Annapurna) Phurba Sherpa (with Carlos Soria on Annapurna) Sherpas above BC (2nd team): Nuri Sherpa, Goli-7, Solukhumbu Dorchi (Halung Dorchi) Gesman Tamang Pasang Norbu Temba Bhote Injuries: Frostbite on big toe by Chhiji Nurbu. Avalanche accident on 15 Feb going down from C3 Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon encountered a rock and snow avalanche coming down from the Lhotse Face. Chhepal was hit on his head and was heli-vaced from BC on 16 Feb. He was admitted to hospital in Kathmandu and received some stitches on his head.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459860
Year 2016
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jon Alexander (Alex) Chicon Navarez M 1981 Spain Leader Lemona, Vizcaya, Spain Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Carlos Rubio Infante Muniz M 1988 Spain Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Thinduk Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Chhepal Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-2, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Phurba (Furba) Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Tate, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nuri Sherpa M 1986 Nepal H-A Worker Goli-7, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Dorchi (Halung Dorje) Sherpa M 1989 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Nurbu Sherpa M 1990 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Temba Bhote M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Pawakhola-7, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Gesman Tamang M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Kerung-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Gyalje (Gelje) Sherpa M 1992 Nepal Icefall Doctor Tapting-3, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER16401 - - http://www.mundodeportivo.com/otros-deportes/20170122/413604915448/rubio-companero-de-txikon-evacuado-a-un-hospital-aunque-no-esta-grave.html - - -
EVER16401 - - http://desnivel.com/expediciones/carlos-rubio-companero-de-alex-txikon-en-el-everest-invernal-evacuado-a-un-hospital-de-kathmandu- - - -
EVER16401 - - http://alextxikon.com/en/category/everest-2017-winter/ - - -
EVER16401 - - https://www.facebook.com/carlos.rubio.3975 - - -