Everest | 2013 SW Face

A Russia expedition to Everest in 2013 via SW Face, led by Alexei Bolotov. Summit reached on 5th May 2013. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8057
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER13158
Peak ID EVER
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Alexei Bolotov
Sponsor International Everest SW Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 2013-04-13
Summit Date 2013-05-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 33
Termination Date 2013-05-16
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to Bolotov's death
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/04,5300m),C2(15/04,6700m),xxx(05-06/05,8000m)
Route Notes The team had lots of time left on the mountain and permit for the whole SW Face (West Ridge included) of Everest and West Face of Lhotse (where they did set a light C3 later joined by the unfortunate Moro, Steck and Griffith). The team began its acclimatization on the 1963 American route, bivying first time on the West Shoulder at 7200m on the 23rd of April. Then they had a rest of a few dasy in Dingboche to recover and regenerate (during that time they left all the their food, gas and equipment on the mountain for Moro, Steck and Griffith). In a second way up they slept on the 1st of May on the same West Shoulder, then they reached a high bivy place on the West Ridge probably at 8000m where they slept the nights of 5th and 6th of May. On 7th of May they were back to the base camp. From that moment they were ready to go for their alpine-ascent attempt on a new route of the SW Face (the route on right side, attempted in 1969 by the Japanese Sato/Nakajime 1972 by the British Haston/Whillans and Austrians - Huber/Kuen and 1973 by other Japanese). From their ABC (normal C2) the team intended to climb the whole face in 6 days. They had time to recover for a second attempt if necessary. On 15 May Alexei started at 3:30 am from the base camp to get a panoramic session with sunrise pictures of the SW Face of Everest. He followed the route attempted in 2009 by a Russian team on this face of Nuptse (North Ridge of snow dome where apparently their old fixed ropes were still standing.) At 5 am, Denis started to follow the same route and found Bolotov's body at 5400m at 6:30 am. The body was wrapped up in broken old fixed ropes (head practically separated from the body) denoting a clear fall may be due to rupture of an old fixed rope. Denis has no idea of what can have happened, the later autopsy revealing multiple head injuries. Then he went back to the base camp and reported to the liaison officer. On 16 May: at 12 am Damian Benegas, Lakpa Sherpa and Denis were dropped by Maurizion and Falini, both helicopter pilots, at Bolotov's body place. There they moved his body 100m below to get a safer place for helicopter landing. In a first push the helicopter took the body at 1:30 pm back to the base camp, then same in a second one for Denis, Damian and Lakpa Sherpa. Then the body and Denis flew to Lukla, then to Kathmandu always by helicopter. At 5 pm the same 16th May the body was directly transfered from its arrival to the teaching hospital freezer. As Bolotov didn't have an insurance, his Russian mountaineer friends found a way to pay the cost of the funeral company and repatriation fees. The money arrived 17 May morning then the post mortem occured the same day and the body was repatriated on the 18 May with Denis back to Russia. Denis Urubko was very shocked, didn't sleep for two nights and only began to recover on 17 May in the morning. He lost his previous teammate Sergei Samoilov in the same Khumbu area. Bolotov was his friend since 18 years.
Accidents Death of Alexei Bolotov
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462841
Year 2013
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alexei Bolotov M 1963 Russia Leader Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Metallurgical engineer Details Other expeditions
Denis Viktorovich Urubko M 1973 Russia Climber Ryazan, Russia Sportsman & journalist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.