Everest | 2013 S Col-SE Ridge

A Nepal expedition to Everest in 2013 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Pemba Dorje Sherpa. Summit reached on 20th May 2013. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8156
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER13143
Peak ID EVER
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Nepal
Leaders Pemba Dorje Sherpa
Sponsor Climbing for Climate Justice
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2013-05-06
Summit Date 2013-05-20
Summit Time 0925
Summit Days 14
Total Days 18
Termination Date 2013-05-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/05,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(15/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes The Expedition under caption "Stop Pollution – Save the Earth and Disability is not an Inability" led by Pemba Dorje Sherpa had two Nepali and one Nepali-origin Canadian (double-amputee) members. Pemba Dorje, Gautam, Phurba and Suman left C4 at 7.30 pm of 19 May. Gautam was short-roped with Pemba Dorje and Phurba. The team got to the top at 9:25 am of 20 May and stayed on summit between 20 to 25 minutes. The team returned C4 at 6 pm. Next day while descending Gautam was heli-lifted from 7600m as he was exhausted, to Kathmandu and rest of the climbers went down to C2 and the following day to BC. Kapur Shrestha had respiratory problem at BC. He was heli-lifted to Kathmandu on 7 May. Pemba Dorje supposed to go with Min Bahadur Sherchan (20/6/1931). Sherchan received climbing permit on 24 May. He flew to Tengboche by helicopter and horse rode to BC on 27 May. He suffered from high altitude sickness and left BC on 29 May. Oxygen: Members from C3-summit-C3, Phurba C4-summit-C4, Pemba did not use From Snowy Horizon website: Congratulation to Mr. Sudarshan Gautam, Canadian Nepali, to become the first double amputee to climb the world’s highest mountain!!! Miss Olga Jadwiga Nabialek from Poland had led the Team of Snowy Everest Expedition South Face Spring-2013 during 2nd April till 6th June 2013 as a team leader. The Snowy Everest Expedition team was of eight people from different international community and Mr. Sudarshan Gautam (double amputee) was also one of them. The team except Mr. Sudarshan had first attempt to the summit on 16th May and due to unforeseen weather condition, they had to return back after approaching to the height of about 8500m from the balcony of Mt. Everest. Then, Mr. Gautam with his supporter Sherpas had attempt on 20th May 2013 early morning and reached to the top of Mt. Everest (8848m) at 9:00 am on Monday. Gautam, aged 30, had lost both his hands at the age of 14 in an accident. He was on a mission to spread the message that "disability is not inability." The Snowy Horizon had successfully concluded the whole project of Mt. Everest Expedition Spring 2013 comfortably; however the rate of success could not be reached higher due to unexpected weather condition at the time of attempting. We are still proud that we could keep our words for "Safety and Security is our prime Concern." From Rockandice.com Daring High Altitude Rescue on Everest Sets Records - 10-Jun-2013 By Brian Wright A high-altitude rescue team is setting new standards in the Himalayas this season, performing the highest altitude longline rescue ever completed. On May 19th, an elite rescue team successfully rescued a mountaineer from near Camp 3 at 23,000 feet (7000m) on Everest. The climber, a Nepalese born, naturalized Canadian citizen named Sudarshan Gautam, who is also a double-amputee after an accident flying a kite into overhead powerlines took both of his arms at 14 years of age, reached the summit but became extremely exhausted and severely dehydrated on the descent. The rescue helicopter, crewed by alpinists Maurizio Folini, Simone Moro and Armin Senoner, was called to make the rescue at "around 23,000 feet," which is right near the maximum altitude that a helicopter is able to fly. After a tricky and dangerous rescue, the team was able to successfully evacuate Gautam. Ministry of Tourism lists Shiva Bahadur Sapkota, Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, and Ngima Dorje Tamang as summiters on 20 May.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st double-amputee without the use of prosthetics
Agency Pemba Dorje Sherpa (Snowy Horizon pmt)
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462856
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sudarshan Gautam   M 1978 Nepal/Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Director of Khangri Media Details Other expeditions
Shiva Bahadur Sapkota M 1981 Nepal Climber Gunsi Bhadaure, Ramechhap - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Dorje Sherpa M 1977 Nepal Leader Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Suman Shrestha M 1990 Nepal Climber Maharanijhoda-5, Jhapa General manager of Khangri Media Details Other expeditions
Phurba Tenzing Sherpa M 1988 Nepal Climbing Leader Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Kapur Shrestha M 1980 Nepal Climber Baluwatar, Kathmandu Managing director of Khangri Media Details Other expeditions
Nima Dorje (Kala) Tamang M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Chitre, Bakachol, Khotang - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER13143 - - http://www.foei.org/en/media/archive/2013/everest-climbing-for-climate-justice-expedition-aims-to-break-world-records - - -
EVER13143 - - http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/daring-high-altitude-rescue-on-everest-sets-records - - -