Everest | 2013 S Col-SE Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Everest in 2013 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Dean Staples. Summit reached on 19th May 2013. 38 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7970
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER13109
Peak ID EVER
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Dean Staples
Sponsor Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2013
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Austria, Iceland, Sweden, USA, Venezuela
Approach Pangboche->Island Peak
Basecamp Date 2013-04-14
Summit Date 2013-05-19
Summit Time 0130
Summit Days 35
Total Days 40
Termination Date 2013-05-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 11
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 24
Summit Hired 24
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Lhotse (LHOT-131-28)
Campsites BC(14/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4,17/05,8000m),Smt(19-21/05)
Route Notes Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2013 led by Dean Staples Two members of the expedition were semi-indepedent: Mike Roberts, a veteran Adventure Consultants Everest leader, and his personal client, Jose Luis Davilla. They had their own time table and a Sherpa assigned to them, but they were somewhat dependent on the main Everest team under Dean Staples' leadership, and when Roberts' client left early, Roberts and their Sherpa stayed on, summited Everest, and went over to Lhotse, on which another Adventure Consultants expedition was climbing under the leadership of Guy Cotter. Expedition personnel summited Everest on four dates. First were four Sherpas who joined other expeditions men in fixing ropes, and they completed the job to the summit on 10 May. They were Dawa Jangbu, Kami Rita, Pemba Chhoti and Sange Dorje, each of whom had been to the top seven or more times before [Kami Rita and Sange Dorje summited, Dawa Jangbu and Pemba Chhoti went to C3 in support]. The next was Michael Roberts, who summited on the 19th with Tendi Sherpa. Then Mark Whetu, a professional cameraman, making a film of the climb, went to the top on 20 May with two Sherpas, Lhakpa Dorje and Ang Phurba. Finally it was the turn of a larger group of members and Sherpas, although by now some members had dropped out. Cross fell and broke her hand while moving through the Icefall on 17 April. Davilla left in early May with a sore foot and for other reasons. Mariusson left on 10 May because he was not acclimatizing to Khumbu's high altitude. On 21 May nine members and 18 Sherpas went to the summit. The successful members were Bradey, Crane, Gissuarsson, Gower, Hall, Josef Hochmeister, Lukas Hochmeister, Staples and Stromstadt. With them were Ang Gelu, Ang Ngwang, Chhewang, Chhuldim, Chhuldim Dorje, Dawa Jangbu (again), Datuk Bhote, Dendi, Kaji, Kami Rita (again), Lhakpa, Mingmar, Pemba Chhoti (again), Phurba Chhoter, Phurba Tenji, Phur Temba, Rinji and Sange Dorje (again). This group summited around 6 am. [Note: Crane, Hall, Chhuldim Dorje, Kami Rita, Sange Dorje reported to have summited at 4:15 am.] All members and Sherpas were back in BC on the 23rd. [After summiting Everest, Staples and Stromstadt returned to C4, rested for 16 hours, then summited Lhotse at 10 am on May 22.] The members were on bottled oxygen from C3 to the top and back to C3. The Sherpas followed the usual Sherpa pattern, from C4 to summit to C4. Sherpa Summiters: Ang Gelu Sherpa, 28/4/86, Phedi-9, Khotang, Everest X3 Ang Ngwang Sherpa [aka Nawang Shera, 10/1/88 (26/9/2044), Sanam, Gudel-4, Solu] Ang Phurba Sherpa, 25/11/85, Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Everest X1, Manaslu X2 Chhewang Rinzing Sherpa [2/8/71, Taksindu] Chhuldim Sherpa, 26/11/63, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X6 Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, 24/4/713, Pangboche, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X1 Datuk Bhote, 20/10/88, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everst X1 Dendi Sherpa, 32 years old, Taksindu, Solu Kaji Sherpa Kami Rita Sherpa, 22/10/77, Thami, Everest X11 Lhakpa Sherpa, 20/6/75, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1 Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1, Kang X1, Makalu X3 Mingmar Sherpa, Taksindu, Solu Namgyal Sherpa, 25/9/71, Khiraunle, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X4 Pasang Bhote, 19/5/86, 30/11/73, Chepuwa, Makalu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X5 Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, 25/11/72, Thami, Everest X9 Phurba Chhoter Sherpa [20/08/1971, Yilajung] Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, 26/5,88, Pangboche, Khumbu Phurba Tenji Sherpa Phur Temba Sherpa [24/6/89, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun] Rinji Sherpa, 26/7/75, Gorakhani-5, Solu, Everest X1 Sange Dorje Sherpa, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2 Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X1 Mike Roberts and Tendi Sherpa on both Everest and Lhotse: Roberts and Davila went to the bergschrund on 1st acclimatization rotation. They wanted to touch C3 on 28 April, but the rope fixing was stopped due to a fight between Ueli Steck and Simone Moro and Sherpas. Once back at BC, Davila had foot pain due to bad boots; on top of that he had to go back to Venezuela for political reasons. He never went back up. Roberts decided to stay and climb Everest and Lhotse. Roberts and Tendi Sherpa had arrived at the South Cl on 17th May at around 12:30 pm, intending to summit on the 18th May. However, the winds were too high and they decided to wait for another night. On 18 May, they left at 7:30 pm with a lot of other people. They passed about 60 people in the first half hour. It was a calm night and a straightforward climb. The summited at 1:30 am and spent about half an hour on the summit trying to get a flash picture on the summit, but it did not work out. They descended to the South Col, where they arrived at 4:30 am and stayed there until 20th May at 6:30 am. During his time at the South Col, Mike Roberts was trying to help mobilise Sherpas for the rescue of Mr. Lee from Taiwan, who was at C4 on Lhotse. Roberts and Tendi left the South Col at 6:30 am on 20 May to get to C4 of Lhotse where they arrived at about 7:45 am. They joined Kenton Cool, who had been trying to save the life of the Taiwanese climber, Mr. Lee, however, when Tendi and Roberts arrived, he had just died. Roberts went back down to the junction, where he had left a duffle bag and sorted out some gear and left the junction at 8:30 am to go for the summit. He stopped at Cool's camp for a drink and left 5 minutes ahead of Cool. Lhotse summit: 20 May at 12:45 pm by Roberts and Tendi Sherpa. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was very cloudy and they could not see much. They descended to the junction, where they repacked their duffle bag again and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. The following day BC. Oxygen: C3 to Everest summit to South Col to Lhotse summit to C3 by Roberts and Tendi Sherpa Sherpa: Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462855
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

38 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lydia Margaret Bakewell Bradey F 1961 New Zealand Climbing Guide Wanaka, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philip Cason Crane M 1992 USA Climber Lawrenceville, New Jersey Student Details Other expeditions
Virginia Louise Cross F 1975 Australia Climber Canterbury, Victoria, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
Jose Luis Davila Pernia M 1958 Venezuela Climber Caracas, Venezuela Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Ingolfur Gier Gissurarson M 1962 Iceland Climber Reykjavik, Iceland Manager Details Other expeditions
Simon Thomas Gower M 1974 Australia Climber Geelong, Victoria, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
Dean Michael Harold Hall M 1981 New Zealand Climber Dunedin, New Zealand Video game designer Details Other expeditions
Josef Hochmeister M 1959 Austria Climber Gaweinstal, Lower Austria, Austria Banker Details Other expeditions
Lukas Hochmeister M 1989 Austria Climber Kornueburg, Lower Austria, Austria Consultant Details Other expeditions
Gudmudar Stefan Mariusson M 1962 Iceland Climber Seltjarnarnes, Iceland Financial director Details Other expeditions
Chuldim Dorje (Ang Dorje) Sherpa M 1964 Nepal Climbing Leader Pangboche, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Dean Douglas Staples M 1964 New Zealand Leader Wanaka, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Thomas Ola Stromstedt M 1976 Sweden Climber London, England Analyst Details Other expeditions
Michael John (Mike) Roberts M 1961 New Zealand Climber Wanaka, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mark Anthony Whetu M 1959 New Zealand Climber Twizel, New Zealand Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Tendi Sherpa M 1968 Nepal H-A Worker Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Gelu Sherpa M 1986 Nepal H-A Worker Phedi-9, Khotang - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Shera (Ang Ngawang) Sherpa M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1991 Nepal H-A Worker Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chhewang Rinzing Sherpa M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Taksindu-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu) Sherpa M 1973 Nepal Climbing Sirdar Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Datuk Bhote M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Chepuwa-4, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Dendi Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Gorakhani-2, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kaji (Pasang Kaji) Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Sikli, Jubing, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kami Rita Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Sotang-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Mingmar Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Namgyal Sherpa M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Khiraule, Bung-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Bhote M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Chepuwa-1, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Chhoti Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Chhoter (Ang Jangbu) Sherpa M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Ongyal Sherpa M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phurwa Tenji (Lama Tenji) Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Khiraule, Bung-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phur Temba Sherpa M 1989 Nepal H-A Worker Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Rinji (Rinzin) Sherpa M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Gorakhani-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sange Dorje Sherpa M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chuldim (Chuldim Dorje) Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER13109 - - http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Everest_Dispatch2013/ - - -