Everest | 2012 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 2012 via W Ridge, led by Nobukazu Kuriki. Summit reached on 18th October 2012. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7807
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER12302
Peak ID EVER
Year 2012
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Nobukazu Kuriki
Sponsor Team Kuriki to Everest
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 2012-09-12
Summit Date 2012-10-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 36
Total Days 39
Termination Date 2012-10-21
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due frostbite and coldness
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/09,5300m),C1(19/09,6000m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(22/09,7200m),C4(16/10,7500m),xxx(18/10,8000m)
Route Notes 19 Sept: all team slept for the first time at C1. 20 Sept: all team slept for the first time at C2. 21 Sept: all team slept at C2 again 22 Sept: Kuriki reached C3 at 1:30 pm to install his tent and put inside some deposit for his summit attempt (inside the tent he left his sleeping bag, some food, gas and a battery) and slept there. Rest of the team slept again at C2. 23 Sept: Kuriki went down to C2 and all team went back to the base camp the same day. Second time up for summit in October: (Ishii and Kadotani went with 8 porters who carried their luggage and filming gear from BC to C2. Sherpas would stay at C2 to watch Kuriki during his attempt in case of rescue and Kuriki team would shoot him for 3 days there before joining Pumori BC to get a better view of the upper part of the western ridge) 9 to 12 Oct: On 9th October, all the team climbed from BC to C2 and waited there 3 days in bad weather conditions (clear sky with jet stream). 13 to 15 Oct: On 13th of October, Kuriki went up at C3 that he reached at 3:15 pm. He carried a 15 kgs bag mostly filled with food and gas. Here he had to wait three nights again for better conditions: The jet stream was just blowing strongly every day in clear sky, as usual. 16 Oct: thanks to a little jet decrease that morning day, two porters (Ramesh Gurung and Kami Singee Tamang) joined Kuriki at C3 in the morning around 9:30-10 am, with a new gas and a new battery for his walkie/talkie. Then Kuriki went up alone at C4 that he reached short before 2 pm. Meanwhile, Ishii and Kadotani descended to Everest BC and joined Pumori BC for filming him better on the upper final part of the ascent (they stayed here until 20th October. The same day, some of their Sherpas left as well C2 to go on the normal route of Lhotse to help for the rescue of Temba from Sedua who fell the same day at 8360m. 17 Oct: in the end of the afternoon, the jet begun to decrease so that Kuriki could leave C4 at 7 pm and begun to climb all night with no wind, but cold. 18 Oct: however during the morning the jetstream was back and he had to stop at 5 am around 8000m at the Hornbein Couloir bottom because it was too cold. According to him, the wind speed was 30 meters per second and the temperature about -25 degrees (-25 degrees C and 30 m/s windspeed = windshield effect around -40 degrees C. However as every day during his attempt, the sky was clear. Then Kuriki went back to C4 at 5:30 pm where he slept and had to consider his hands were already frostbitten. 19 Oct: Having contracted serious frostbites, Kuriki asked for rescue to C2 so that a Sherpa team including Man Bahadur Gurung, Ramesh Gurung, Lal Bahadur Tamang and Dawa [Finchok] Sherpa climbed to C4, which was reached between 4 and 5 pm. Here the team directly begun his climb down during all night. 20 Oct: all the rescue team was back at C2 at 5:50 am and slept there. According to Kuriki, the wind was more alternate the 19th and 20th of October, sometimes very strong again, sometimes not so much (this explains why on 20th the helicopter couldn't rescue them at C2). This day, both photographer and cameraman went back to the Everest BC to call for helicopter rescue. 21 Oct: the helicopter arrived at 9:30 am at the BC. Then the helicopter flew in two times to Lukla then Kathmandu (because of fuel and lack of seats for all the passengers). Food and loss of weight: During his summit bid (from 13th to 17th October), every day Kuriki used to eat one noodle soup for dinner and drink hot water or tea during the day. Weighing 60 kgs normally, Kuriki wasn't weighed at his arrival in CIWEC clinic, but he believes he must have lost something like 5 or 6 kgs. A light style ascent: His food sponsors (Nishin and Gurico) being experts in dried food (for space and mountain expeditions) the food weighed almost nothing in his bag. Kuriki used a small light tent (wt 1.3 kgs) for his ascent, using the same for C3 and C4. When he started from C2 on 22nd of September for his deposit and on 13th of October for the summit, both times his bag would weigh around 15 kgs, second time mostly filled with food and gas. Frostbites: Kuriki has got severe frostbites on both hands (bleeding on the 21st of October under the bandages) almost nothing on the feet (just a bit swelled mostly the right one). His nose was frostbitten as well, black on the front of the nostrils, red on the bridge of the nose, for both mostly on the left side of it. Conclusion: Kuriki spent 7 days above 7200m practically alone (once joined on the 16th of October by two porters then a second time for his rescue on 19th of October) in quite severe wind and cold conditions: 3 nights at C3, 3 nights at C4 and one night climbing above 7500m.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Bochi Bochi Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462641
Year 2012
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kunihiko Ishii M 1979 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Masaru Kadotani M 1982 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Photographer Details Other expeditions
Nobukazu Kuriki M 1982 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kami Singee Tamang M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Syamba, Ramche, Rasuwa - Details Other expeditions
Ramesh Gurung M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Linggam, Hatiya-7, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Lal Bahadur Tamang M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Ramche-6, Rasuwa - Details Other expeditions
Man Bahadur Gurung M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Sitalpati, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Finchok Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Lamabagar-3, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.