Everest | 2012 N Col-NE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2012 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Dan Mazur. Summit reached on 14th April 2012. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7540
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER12149
Peak ID EVER
Year 2012
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Dan Mazur
Sponsor SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2012
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, France, Switzerland
Approach By road from Ktm to BC
Basecamp Date 2012-03-14
Summit Date 2012-04-14
Summit Time 0435
Summit Days 31
Total Days 67
Termination Date 2012-05-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04,5230m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7050m),C2(18/05,7600m),C3(25/05,8300m),Smt(20,26-27/05)
Route Notes First to summit from this expedition were Puyo and Jangbu. Puyo wanted to go up while everyone else was going down from C2 to ABC in the face of strong wind, low clouds and snowfall. He and Jangbu just "took off" (as Mazur put it) from C2 to C3 on the 19th and on 20th May went on to the top and down to C1. They left C3 on 19th May at 11:30 pm (Chinese time), summited at 6:50 am (4:35 am NST) on 20 May. Puyo said they were the second party to reach the top that day, following two Sherpas from another expedition. They descended all the way to C1 at 5:00 pm. The main summit party consisted of Lim, Mazur, Smith and Valloton with Sherpas Gyalzen, Pasang Nurbu and Tenji. They climbed from the north side in the ideal conditions that prevailed from 25 to 30 May, Mazur reported: "no wind, no clouds, warm temperatures and no people." Valloton was the first to set out for the top from C3. She left at 10:00 pm on the 25th alone (she didn't want a Sherpa with her), but got too cold and turned back to C3 at 1:30 am on the 26th. She again left the top at about 10:00 am but again turned around at 2 pm because she was too cold and was unable to attach the fresh oxygen bottle that had been left for her at 8600m. She gave up and descended to C1. Lim and Pasang Nurbu left C3 at 11:30 pm on the 25th, summited at 1:00 pm (10:45 am NST) on 26 May and went back in C3. Smith climbed up to C3 on the 25th, but rested there during the day of the 26th and, with Tenji and Gyalzen, set out for the top at 6:00 pm. They arrived at the summit at 6:30 am (4:15 am NST) on 27 May and returned to C3. Smith was very tired: he descended one camp per day. The other summiters had gone down from C3 to C1 and to ABC one day apart. Mazur decided to remain in C3 and made no bid for the top. Oxygen was used by the summiters as follows: Lim, Puyo and Smith from C2 to summit to C1; Valloton and the Sherpas from C2 to top to C2. The team's only health problem was the frostbite Lim got on the middle finger of his left hand. Sherpas: Gyalzen, 25/1/74, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2 Jangbu, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1 Pasang Norbu/Nurbu, 21/12/72, Nurbugaon, Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X4, Lhotse X1, Kangch X1, Manaslu X1 Tenji, 1/6/82, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X6
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Everest Parivar
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462454
Year 2012
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sim-Beow Lim M 1961 Australia Climber Carlton, Victoria, Australia Psychologist Details Other expeditions
Daniel Lee (Dan) Mazur M 1960 USA Leader Lake Bay, Washington Expedition organizer Details Other expeditions
Jacques Puyo M 1960 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Businessman Details Other expeditions
Janice Catherine Smith F 1944 Australia Climber Albert Park, Victoria, Australia Psychologist Details Other expeditions
Josette Valloton F 1964 Switzerland Climber Arolla, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jangbu Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbugaon, Walung, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Tenji/Tenzing Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-6, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Gyalzen/Gyalje Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-4, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER12149 - - http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?linktype=r&mtype=smenu&vid=17&nid=184 - - -