Everest | 2011 N Col-NE Ridge

A Czech Republic expedition to Everest in 2011 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Marek Novotny. Summit reached on 29th April 2011. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7312
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER11169
Peak ID EVER
Year 2011
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders Marek Novotny
Sponsor Everest North Side Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Kodari->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 2011-04-14
Summit Date 2011-04-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7700m due to strong winds that blew away his tent and equipment
High Point (m) 7700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04),ABC(6400m),C1(28/04,7100m),C2(29/04,7700m),xxx
Route Notes April 1 through April 7 was spent in Khumbu to acclimatize while waiting for Chinese visa from embassy in Kathmandu. Account of Marek Novotny's Everest attempt (Google translation from Czech): http://www.extreme-sports.cz/team-extreme-sports/ Category: Extreme Sports Team 08.04.2011 at 11:37 Marek Novotny Member of Team Extreme-sports.cz and mountaineering club in Czeike went last week to climb Mount Everest. The plan is clear. Climb the highest mountain in the world alone and without oxygen. In the last interview Marek commented on their preparation. Yesterday he described his first steps. "1.4 I flew to Lukla. Had seven-hour flight delay. That same day I arrived at 4:45 to Namche (elevation 600 m). The next day I graduated in three hours Namche-Tengboche route (3860 m). In Tengboche I climbed the hill to the local height 4150 m. The next day I waited three hour trip to Pheriche. From here, I crawled to Lobuche (4910 m). Here I am waiting for a well-deserved sleep. After a rest I'm from the south reached the base camp of Everest, which is at an altitude of 5364 meters. Later that day I ran out to Kala Patthar 5545 m 4.6 I waited in line to Namche Bazar Lobuche. I spent the night in Namche and Lukla Thursday pushed in the direction. Trek seems to me. Everything is fine and acclimatization are perfect, even though it was a quickie. All you health." Marek Novotny Category: Extreme Sports Team 14.04.2011 at 10:26 Marek Novotny sent us a few lines further on their experiences of traveling to the summit of Mount Everest. 4.7 arrived back in Kathmandu. "This day off I used to buy important things like the tent pegs, gas bombs and ropes. Previous evening I dined with Radek Jaros, who is preparing himself to climb Lhotse". In the evening 08.04 Marek learned that getting a visa to Tibet. "The night that followed after I received the news of my nevpusteni to Tibet was terrible. I kept wondering what could be wrong, but the morning turned out to be all right, so I 04.09 get into Tibet. Next day I Nyalam arrived. Here I made a couple of outputs at the local hill. Then move to Tingri and 4.14 I should arrive at the base camp of Mount Everest." Category: Extreme Sports Team 03.05.2011 at 11:01 Mount Everest We present a summary of other recent reports from Marek Novotny. Extreme athlete is currently back at base camp. During the last days of his tent at an altitude of 7700 meters above sea level. 4.27 We went from BC to ABC-6400 m. He managed me for 7 hours. 4.28 I arrived at C1. After passing the night I went to C2, which is at an altitude of 7500 meters above sea level. Failed to find me a suitable platform until 7700 m. was such miniplacek. I think it is exactly the place that I have at the first attempt to climb Mount Everest shared with Roman. At 6 o'clock I started to build a tent. It was the first and only tent erected in C2. Around the tent has undergone only a couple of Sherpas. At night it was -40 ยก C. I did not sleep. After 17.5 hours in C2 I descended to ABC. 1.5 I descended to BC. There like a strong storm. Marek in BC resting and waiting for suitable weather. At the top wants to sprout between 6 and 12 in May. Then the plan is as follows. 5.13 - ABC 6400 m. 5.14 - C1 7100 meters above sea level. 5.15 - C2 7700 meters above sea level. 5.16 - C3 8300 meters above sea level. 5.17 - The peak of Mount Everest Category: Extreme Sports Team 23.05.2011 at 9:32 Marek is back home from trying to solo ascent of Mount Everest. Strong winds swept the tent ready in C2 (7500 m). The necessary equipment was gone. Snow storm continued, and so is Marek returned to base camp. What was the last phase of the output can be found in an article we wrote immediately upon arrival to the CR. Almost one month after the preparatory work on the mountain, I decided that the 6th May I start from BC to ABC 5200 m 6400 m above sea level - where I start my final attempt to conquer Everest without supplementary oxygen. In BC, I rested for the fourth day, after I stepped down after an incredibly cold night of C2. Sixth, I went from BC to the twenty-three kilometer trek glacial moraines in the center of ABC. After a seven-hour output, and I arrived just as the last snow storm in the back I crawled into the tent. My plan was to stay two days in the ABC and 9.5. 2011 for the third time to go to northern saddle, and that's what I did. On the ninth day for me came Sherpa Dawa, who informed me that the guys from the Chinese Association of climbing fixed ropes stretch from the third camp sooner than 5 days. The whole time it was considered that the peak has been long fixed. This report in no way nerozhodila me. I decided to exit the option without the use of fixed ropes. Of course, I hoped that some of those old markers will be there. Weather that day was absolutely perfect. Everest without his cap and wind over the northern saddle beautiful cloudless blue sky. I always thought, especially do not hurry, do you have time. The later you get to C1 the better for you. So I have breakfast (toasted stale toast and one egg), packed specially prepared packages of energy output for four days and went to other than himself. The previous two outputs strengthen me so that I literally May 9 to C1 ejected, because I managed to exit the north wall for three hours and thirty minutes. I was surprised that such a thing is possible. Tent in C1 I found covered with snow, and so began my work. Stan, I rescued a little repaired and started cooking. Of course, after what I Serak of ice the size of a skyscraper chipped off a few ice cubes, which I melted in my mess tin amazing. Everything played until eight o'clock in the evening, it started snowing and I stopped. At four o'clock in the morning I discovered that the walls of my tent closer to my face so much that I was forced to get dressed, get out of the tent and assess the situation. Getting out was not easy. I felt a mess tin lid from the snow and began to throw out. Attacked as a meter of snow. When I successfully threw the snow off the tent, I found that I shovel yesterday extricate your tent is in tension. I continued promotion has thrown the lid of the EGTC. After two hours it was done and the first frostbite were in the world. Completely exhausted and totally hands zmrzl?ma I hid in the tent and started cooking. Not for a second I thought that I should not continue their attack. I had a soup, drank 0.5 l isotonic drinks, packed up and went to C2. Even when I was shoveling snow around the tent, so I passed around a group of high-rise Sherpas who carried additional oxygen clients are likely to C3. So I thought great, at least it will be Down in a little pluck and the boys certainly sunk fixed ropes, as I did it a few days ago. Category: Extreme Sports Team 24.05.2011 at 16:12 Yesterday we published the first part of the narrative of Marek Novotny for his ascent of Mount Everest. Today you can read how it all works out. After retiring from C1 to C2 up after twenty minutes I found that Sherpas fixed ropes and found that the C2 is the output I have accomplished without the use of fixed ropes. Okay dude, I think you have to be careful, you can not lose your balance and it will be good, just go. I walked twenty steps and then rested. I stuck the ax in front of him and leaned on his forehead. When the ax sank smoothly into the ice, I saw a beautiful translucent blue and I found myself in the vicinity of a crack. I accelerated and instead of twenty steps I took 40th After six hours I arrived at the foot of the rock at an altitude of 7500 meters above sea level where it begins C2 and continued in heavy rain and increasing winds another 300 vertical meters to his tent. Fixed ropes on the rock was already available when needed. This time I'm just not mind and I just graduated from one platform to another in the dark looking for his white tent. When I thought I was too high, so I turned the altimeter and still did not understand that I'm not in his tent. Indeed, so high I did not stand him. After another fifty meters output in the snow I found the orange and blue stripes and I think it can not be out of my tent, so I climb on. After another thirty meters at last find his tent, at least what's left of it. Complete rags, or a stick, just shreds. I try to search the torso of a tent, but do not find anything. Most important thing for me was the gas. I was about seven hours after the output has fully exhausted and without water, I consume way up. All of what I enjoyed and what I was chased up the tent and crawled into the cook water. Snow storm grew and I had to quickly decide what to do. I looked around to see if somewhere there is a tent-based, but nothing I could find. And so with all the equipment went back to the C1. I wanted to dig up a tent there, take the gas and go again the next day to C2. And so I began to descend. After about two hours of cautious descent, which I enjoy every moment of his elevation brobodl crampons boots I turned and saw the silhouette. Was coming to me as undermining step. It was a sash Kadzi Bir, who was in charge of Polish friend. He was sitting somewhere in BC with pneumonia. When Bir came to me, so I knelt facing each other in the snow and leaned on each other faces. I was happy that I'm not alone there. Five minutes later we knelt and I asked if he Kadziho water. He pulled out a small half-liter bottle and poured me a glass maybe. He drank the same amount and continued the descent. I went after him, but because he had no burden, and I returned with a full field, soon disappeared in the gathering storm. I took out my camera and started filming hell and at that moment I realized how quickly begin to fade tracks, which went even a little while ago Kadzi. I got worried that he add, so lost in a storm and do not care to C1. I had to work hard to start more than 100%. Fortunately, I was from C1 only ten minutes, but I did not know. After coming to C1 storm intensified so much that I even thought to stop and start cooking. I kept saying, "You've got down as soon zaleze? the tent, already gone." So I passed my tent in C1 just passed, noticed two holes in it and just went on. Still at number one on me from the very last tent called Sherpa Dawa and shouted: "Marek, come inside to hide." I knelt in front of his tent and say, "I'm not going in, if you have some water, please give me a drink." Dawa was cooking and put me in a cup of coffee, which washed with hot water. I had after I drank a cup of energy of a bit more. I continued to descend further. About ten minutes later turn around and Dawa, together with other Sherpas descended as well. I asked what happened and Dawa responded that he can not stay at number one. And so I followed what were all number one went to ABC. There I decided that the next attempt without equipment, which I took up snow storm and then I quit.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Monterosa Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462057
Year 2011
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marek Novotny M 1977 Czech Republic Leader Novy Jicin, Czech Republic Police instructor Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER11169 - - http://www.extreme-sports.cz/team-extreme-sports/ - - -