Everest | 2011 S Col-SE Ridge
A USA expedition to Everest in 2011 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Garrett Madison. Summit reached on 14th May 2011. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 7150 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER11149 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 2011 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Garrett Madison |
| Sponsor | Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2011 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | S Africa |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2011-04-14 |
| Summit Date | 2011-05-14 |
| Summit Time | 0930 |
| Summit Days | 30 |
| Total Days | 38 |
| Termination Date | 2011-05-22 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 9 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 12 |
| Summit Hired | 6 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Lhotse on 15 and 20 May |
| Campsites | BC(14/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(13/05,8000m),Smt(14,19/05) |
| Route Notes | Horst and Hart left C4 at 11:45 pm on 13 May. It was very windy (40m/h), however, when they reached the Balcony the wind had abated and they carried on. They reached the summit at 9:30 am. Good views. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and returned to C4, where they arrived at 1:30 pm. They both slept and even though both wanted to climb Lhotse, Hart decided that Everest was enough for him. At midnight Horst left C4 to summit Lhotse. He went the traditional route via Lhotse C4 and summited on 15 May at 5:30 am. The AAI Sherpas fixed 600m on Lhotse on 14 May; however, the last 200m to the summit were not fixed and Horst had to use old rope. He spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 10 am. The next day he descended to BC. Horst decided to go back to climb Nuptse with Madison and Max Bunce from IMG. He took a helicopter back to BC and arrived there at 23 May. 19 May summit team left 9:30 pm on 18 May. It was windy (Adventure Consultants and Mountain Trip also went that day). Lhakpa Rita and a Sherpa from AC had to break trail as there was fresh snow. Once the team got high, the wind abated and it turned out to be the perfect day. They stayed on the summit for one hour. They descended to C4, where they arrived at noon the same day. On the same day, Kami Rita Sherpa, Madison and Halliday departed from the South Col at 9:45 pm to summit Lhotse. They went the traditional way (via Lhotse C4) and summited Lhotse at 4:20 am. They waited for it to get light and left the summit around 5 am. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm. The following day, everyone descended to BC. The clients left BC on 22 May by helicopter, while Madison and Horst stayed to climb Nuptse together with Bunce. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C2 by members, apart from Halliday and Gibbons, who started using oxygen at C2 to top to C2. Sherpas from C4 to top to C4. Sherpas: Lhakpa Rita, Thami, 9/9/66, Everest X12 Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, 20/7/70, Everest X12 Dawa Nuru, Thami, 25/11/64, Everest X3 Ang Pasang, Thami, 19/6/67, Everest X10 Mingma Dorje, Waku-4, 28/5/69, Everest X4 Mingma Chhiring, Thami, 22/7/1968, Everest X12 |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2462072 |
| Year | 2011 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
15 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Michael Wayne Gibbons | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Yorba Linda, California | Business entrepreneur | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas Halliday | M | 1962 | USA | Climber | Chicago, Illinois | Stockbroker | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert William (Rob) Hart | M | 1972 | S Africa | Climber | Singapore | Fund manager | Details Other expeditions |
| James Michael Horst | M | 1978 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Benjamin Mason (Ben) Jones | M | 1978 | USA | Deputy Leader | Jackson, Wyoming | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Garrett Christian Madison | M | 1978 | USA | Leader | Bainbridge Island, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Louis John Mariorenzi | M | 1955 | USA | Climber | Jamestown, Rhode Island | Orthopedic surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Gary James Nelson | M | 1959 | USA | Climber | La Crescenta, California | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Lloyd Marshall Warren | M | 1954 | USA | Climber | Copper Canyon, Texas | Airline pilot | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Rita Sherpa | M | 1966 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Chhiri/Chhiring Sherpa | M | 1968 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tshering Dorje Sherpa | M | 1970 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Pasang Sherpa | M | 1967 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Nuru (Da Nuru) Sherpa | M | 1964 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Dorje Sherpa | M | 1969 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sibuje, Waku-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER11149 | - | - | http://www.alpineascents.com/everest-cybercast11.asp | - | - | - |
| EVER11149 | - | - | http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11s/newswire-speed-everest-lhotse | - | - | - |