Everest | 2011 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2011 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Dan Mazur. Summit reached on 12th May 2011. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7093
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER11135
Peak ID EVER
Year 2011
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Dan Mazur
Sponsor SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2011
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2011-04-08
Summit Date 2011-05-12
Summit Time 0800
Summit Days 34
Total Days 38
Termination Date 2011-05-16
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6050m),C2(23/04,6300m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
Route Notes The summit party left C4 for the top at 10:00 pm on 11 May. They were four members Edge, Falconer, Leonard and Lewis, with four Sherpas, Ang Pasang, Jangbu, Lhakpa Nuru and Thile Nuru. At midnight of the 11th/12th, when Leonard reached well below the Balcony at perhaps 8100m, Leonard complained that her fingers were very cold and she wanted to turn back. She retreated to C4, and Thile Nuru returned with her; they remained in C4 for the rest of the day. Her fingers were blue, but not even frostnipped. The weather had become extremely windy and very cold. The other six climbers continued their ascent. Lewis, who was very fast, raced to the summit at 8:00 am of 12 May, and Lhakpa Nuru was not far behind. They stayed on the top to await the arrival of the other two members and two Sherpas. But Edge and Falconer, with Ang Pasang and Jangbu, according to Mazur, who did not himself climb above C3, were held up at the bottom of the South Summit by a crowd of as many 20 climbers from the Canadian-led Peak Freaks expedition. Their leader, Tim Rippel was in BC, and walkie-talkie communications was virtually impossible because of the fierce winds. With his group at the South Summit was his deputy, Angel Armesto, who according to Mazur, was not providing strong leadership. Mazur said that the members were stuck, not knowing what to do in this dark, cold, very windy situation while they were suffering from the cold; they were virtually paralyzed, he said, and because of their number, were preventing anyone else from moving up or down for an hour and a half. Lewis, realizing the impasse, shouted down to them to move, get off the trail, get out of the way, let others go up. Mazur understands that they then turned around and descended. Rippel did not mention such any incident or aborted summit bid; he said his people summited on the 13th of May. [Note: this incident is also not mentioned in the SummitClimb dispatches on their web site.] At any rate, Edge, Falconer, Ang Pasang and Jangbu did get to the top at 9:30 am and all returned to C4 for the night, arriving there at 3:00 pm. All were down in C2 on the 13th and BC on the 14th. Oxygen was used by the members in C3 to their high points down to about C2, wherever their individual supplies ran out. Their Sherpas were on oxygen from about 7600m to their high points only. Non-summiting members: Ms. Paula Leonard mentioned above. Dan Mazur, who was leader of record of the Summit Climb Lhotse team, did not go above C3. Sherpas: Ang Pasang Sherpa, 15/6/84 (2/3/2041), Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1 Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 21/8/81, Phakding, Solu, Everest X2, Lhotse X1 Thile Nuru Sherpa, 26/5/74, Choplung, Solu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Everest Parivar
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462070
Year 2011
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stewart James Edge M 1978 UK Climber London, England Quality manager of building contractor Details Other expeditions
Samantha Louise (Squash) Falconer F 1981 UK Climber Thulston, Derbyshire, England Director of events and entertainment business Details Other expeditions
Mary Paula Leonard F 1969 USA Climber Sitka, Alaska Nurse Details Other expeditions
Mitchell Allen (Mitch) Lewis M 1957 USA Climber Santa Clara, California Telephone manufacturing company marketing executive Details Other expeditions
Daniel Lee (Dan) Mazur M 1960 USA Leader Lake Bay, Washington Expedition organizer Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-4, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Jangbu Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-4, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Phakding, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Thile Nurbu (Thile Nuru) Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Chheplung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER11135 - - http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?linktype=r&nid=153 - - -