Everest | 2011 N Col-NE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2011 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Kyle Beaird. Summit reached on 21st May 2011. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7217
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER11104
Peak ID EVER
Year 2011
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Kyle Beaird
Sponsor Bull Run Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2011-04-19
Summit Date 2011-05-21
Summit Time 0215
Summit Days 32
Total Days 37
Termination Date 2011-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/04),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(10/05,7600m),C3(20/05,8400m),Smt(21/05)
Route Notes Beaird and his one Sherpa, Pasang left C3 for the top at about 7:00 pm on 20 May. He explained their early start: "We decided on an overnight summit because our summit window was so small and we didn't want to get stuck in traffic. We summited at 2:15 am on the 21st. We were one of the first groups up after the Chinese team, and I found one of the summit ropes (installed for the Chinese) to be dangerously improperly anchored (the end of the rope pulled right out of the anchor) and so I fixed this before we came back down." They descended to C1 for the night. Beaird commented that "I am thankful to have had the opportunity to summit Everest and to be joined by such hard working and talented Sherpas. Although we summited at night, it was a fantastic experience and well worth the physical and financial cost. "My only disappointment was the degree to which the Chinese politicized the mountain -- something I've not experienced anywhere else in the world. There were many instances where I was left a little confused regarding the political climate in Tibetan China. Issues not directly related to the mountain were having goods inspected while crossing into China for, among other things, pictures of the Dalai Lama and Tibetan flags. This continued with Internet access in country, which was censored. I could not access my email or my climbing blog." "On the mountain, it was the insistence of the Chinese that their team be the first to summit, which forced everyone else on the mountain to wait until the Chinese climbing team felt the conditions were just right. The non-Sherpa rope team didn't put up any ropes until the Chinese climbing team was ready to go for the summit, and in acting this way, the rope team missed many good chances to get ropes in much earlier. Additionally, it seemed (I only know this from second-hand accounts) that there was tension between the Chinese climbing team and the Tibetan rope team, for obvious political reasons. "The coup-de-grace was that once the Chinese team did actually make a summit attempt, something like only three of the 12-14 climbers actually summited. So we all waited many extra days if not weeks so that three Chinese climbers could claim the summit first. It seemed to me like a very amateurish way for a country of China's stature to act. The emphasis should be on climber safety, not on national pride. As you can imagine, emotions and frustrations on the mountain were running high, which I'm sure affected my perception of the political issues." Sherpa: Pasang Sherpa, 20/2/83 (8/11/2039), Balakharka, Makalu-4, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency 7 Summits Adventure
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462034
Year 2011
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kyle James Beaird M 1975 USA Leader Denver, Colorado Business consultant Details Other expeditions
Pasang (Pasang Temba) Sherpa M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Balakharka, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.