Everest | 2010 N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs) (to 6750m)

A Germany expedition to Everest in 2010 via N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs) (to 6750m), led by Ralf Dujmovits. Summit reached on 24th May 2010. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7257
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER10151
Peak ID EVER
Year 2010
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs) (to 6750m)
Route 2 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders Ralf Dujmovits
Sponsor Everest North Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2010-04-09
Summit Date 2010-05-24
Summit Time 1220
Summit Days 45
Total Days 47
Termination Date 2010-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,5550m),(series of Bivs),Smt(24/05)
Route Notes The team's goals were to scale Everest without Sherpa support and without bottled oxygen up the North Face via the Japanese Couloir and the Hornbein Couloir. In the end one member reached the summit by a different route, the normal North Col route. They arrived at the normal BC site (5200m) on 9 April and made ABC at 5500m on the 12th. This was their only fixed camp above base: from here on up, they had only a series of bivouacs. On 18th April bivouacked at 5800m just below the bottom of the North Face to launch their reconnaissance of conditions on the face and acclimatize. They moved up the face, bivouacking at 6200m the next day and at 6450m on the 20th. A lot of wind-driven snow was coming down the couloirs, and on 21 April they moved back to ABC. They returned to their 6200m bivouac site on the 26th to acclimatize further. The next day they planned to go up to the North Col, but strong wind stopped them at 6750m in their diagonal traverse to the Col. They did succeed in getting to the higher end of the Col at 7100m on 28 April, and continuing their acclimatization, they went up the normal climbing route to their next bivouac at 7600m on the 29th. They stayed here two nights, then descended on 1 May to ABC. Now they were struck by bad weather. It was cold (minus 35 degrees Celsius at the summit) and very wind (blowing at 140 km/hr) and again had to stay there. Finally on 15 May they were able to return to 6200m. On the 16th they encountered blue ice 300m higher and retreated again to ABC. Wind blowing down the couloirs was creating such thick spindthrift that they had difficulty breathing. The only rope they had with them was just 50 meters long, which required them to change over in relays, and this was very time-consuming on fresh snow atop blue ice. They calculated that they would need 20 more bivouacs above, but there were no places to put them, and the spells of good weather would not last long enough in any case. On the morning of 17 May they decided to abandon all efforts to scale the couloirs and instead climb the normal route. They moved once again to 6200m on 19 June and on the 20th across icy slopes to the North Col, where they bivouaced for two nights. They climbed on the 22nd to 7600m and on the 23rd they bivouacked at 8200m, where conventional teams had their C3. 24 May was the day for their summit push. But Dujmovits throat was badly congested and he had little sleep at night, was falling asleep as he was climbing. So he stayed in their last bivouac while Kaltenbrunner left at 3:50 am (NST) on 24 May for the top alone. Snow was falling and it was dark. At the 1st Step she saw Abele Blanc and Marco Camandona and caught up with them, and above the 2nd Step she caught up with the two Italians' leader Silvio Mondinelli and others. They went to the summit together at 12:20 pm in light snowfall, light wind and not very cold temperatures. "The highest point on earth, it was incredible, I was so happy," Kaltenbrunner said about her success on her thirteenth 8000m summit. She had made the climb entirely without artificial oxygen and stayed on the top for 35 minutes also without it. She returned to their 8200m bivouac and Dujmovits and she went all the way down, at 9:00 pm, to the site of ABC for climbers on the normal route in clear weather. The next day they went to their original ABC to pack it up, left it on the 26th and got back to Kathmandu on the 27th. Kaltenbrunner's final eight-thousander: K2, the second highest point on earth, in July-August, according to her plan.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461671
Year 2010
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (japanese & hornbein couloirs) (to 6750m)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ralf Dujmovits M 1961 Germany Leader Buehl, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Alpine guide & outdoor adventure company executive Details Other expeditions
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner F 1970 Austria Climber Buehl, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.