Everest | 2006 N Col-NE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2006 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Joby Ogwyn. Summit reached on 5th May 2006. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5253
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER06141
Peak ID EVER
Year 2006
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Joby Ogwyn
Sponsor Independent climber on Everest
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2006-04-10
Summit Date 2006-05-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 25
Total Days 38
Termination Date 2006-05-18
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 8600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/04,5150m),ABC(16/04,6450m),xxx(05/05,8600m)
Route Notes High point at bottom of Second Step. 1st week at mountain weather very cold and snow; me and Klein (Hungarian) till April 19 to BC and 21st to Tingri. 27th back from Tingri and to ABC (Klein on 28th). Went to North Col for his first view of route and to see what ropes had been installed on 28th and down to ABC. Since ropes installed quite high, decided to do his speed climb immediately in good weather. On 1 May up as far as 7500m where rocky area starts and down to ABC in 2 hour 45 minutes ascent. Left ABC 11:00 pm 4 May for non-stop ascent to top in 14 hours from base of route at 6550m; left base one minute after midnight (NST); went very well to 7500m in 3 hours; now on route he didn't know, warm night and route mostly rock not covered by snow and easy to see where to put his feet. Never used fixed ropes (except as guide to where route was) continued up steep rocks and up towards North Ridge, still moving fast; sun came up and could now see very well (had been no moonlight) and little wind. Around 10:00 am reached high point at about 8600m at bottom of 2nd Step, stopped to reached for 30-40 minutes; clouds rising all morning and now started snowing which got worse and worse, so down; at 8000m met Sherpas and descended with them in snowstorm which at times brought white out. Down to C1 that night and ABC 6 May. Weather got colder and "lost a lot of power" at that altitude and wind strong next few days. 15th May, after staying at ABC all the time, left at 4:00 pm to 7500m at 7:00 pm, stayed in Australian's tent there warm himself but stayed all night because fierce cold wind. Waited for Klein to descend to 7500m both together to ABC at 16th afternoon. Climb now finished. "Saw that I could make speed ascent in good conditions" and will comeback on 2007, probably on south route. "I think I can set a new standard."
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency World Records Expeditions
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460052
Year 2006
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Joby David Ogwyn M 1974 USA Leader Shreveport, Louisiana (parent's home) Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.