Everest | 2006 S Col-SE Ridge (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down)

A Italy expedition to Everest in 2006 via S Col-SE Ridge (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down), led by Simone Moro. Summit reached on 20th May 2006. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5224
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER06112
Peak ID EVER
Year 2006
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Simone Moro
Sponsor Independent climber on Everest and Lhotse
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2006-04-12
Summit Date 2006-05-20
Summit Time 0315
Summit Days 38
Total Days 72
Termination Date 2006-06-23
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Island Peak (5 April)
Campsites BC(12/04,5350m),C2(16/04,6350m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes BC at Everest BC site C2 in Western Cwm C3 on West Face of Lhotse C4 at South Col. Intended to make new route on North Face of West Ridge of Lhotse to top and traverse ridge to summit down North Ridge to South Col and on Everest summit and down Hornbein Couloir and back to Western Cwm. Slept in C2 3 nights because 1 meter snowfall and now decided because of "huge" avalanches down from West Face and his planned North Face of West Ridge 19th to BC through deep snow not possible and abandoned Lhotse attempt. Rested in BC till 24th, then to C2, 25th headed up to C3 but at 6900m stopped in very hot temperature and left rucksack hanging in fixed rope (all climbing gear inside) and down to BC. 26th helped rescue Walter Berardi (Merelli's Lhotse team) who hit on head by ice in Khumbu Icefall. 27th flew from BC to Kathmandu with Berardi and 31st flew back to BC in another team's helicopter. 2nd May to C2, 3rd to rucksack on West Face, rucksack but it was gone; still he continued to C3 and so slept in Poland Everest team's tent. 4th went to 7600m at Yellow Band to acclimatize and back to BC, then to Deboche village. Back to BC 9th. 16th to C2, 17th to C3, 18th to C4. 19th left C4 at 23:00 hours and on top at 3:15 using oxygen (bottle in rubbish on Col, mask and regulator left for him by Polish whose tent he slept in: they came down from top as he arrived in C4). Now completely dark (no moonlight) and ahead of all other teams). Stayed 10 minutes; met on top 1 US woman and her Sherpa who had arrived on top 15 minutes before Moro; she took pix of Moro then down normal route: could not see where Hornbein Couloir was so could not follow his plan to descend back to C2 in Cwm. So followed fixed lines which were covered with snow so had to work hard to pull ropes up and use them. Went all the way to [north side] ABC in 5 hours 15 minutes from top - "thats the way to survive in the mountains" to move very fast; slept in Piantoni's tent. 22nd to BC, where his friend who lives in Lhasa and speaks Chinese, joined him to explain to 2 LO's (Tibetans) and later in village to policeman. Moro received paper in Chinese explained Moro had descended north side because had lost his way; this enabled him to cross border. Used oxygen for 2 hours in C4 and again 3 hours up from Balcony 19-20 May. Note: Moro had his passport with him - others believe he intended N->S traverse from the start. They point out also that his friend from Lhasa was waiting at BC for him and they say he had to pay $3000 for this border pass. Simone Moro - 3 April 2007 Moro does not deny that he planned the traverse from the start. He had previously inquired [indirectly] about obtaining a traverse permit, but was denied.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st South->North traverse of Everest since 1988
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460067
Year 2006
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge (up); ne ridge-n col (down)

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Leader Bergamo, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER06112 CLIM - - - 29:74 (Jul 2007) -
EVER06112 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 81:434-435 (2007) -
EVER06112 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200743400/Everest-Cross-Border-Traverses - - -