Everest | 2005 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2005 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Dan Mazur. Summit reached on 5th June 2005. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4980
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER05195
Peak ID EVER
Year 2005
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Dan Mazur
Sponsor SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2005
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Germany, Netherlands, Sweden
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2005-04-14
Summit Date 2005-06-05
Summit Time 0900
Summit Days 52
Total Days 53
Termination Date 2005-06-06
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(28/04,6450m),C3(04/05,7100m),C4(03/06,7900m),Smt(05/06)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 at West Cwm C3 at Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Summit party left C4 at 9:30 pm on 4 June for top; Clarke, Coster, Tenji Sherpa and Lhakpa Sherpa; Coster turned back at 8400m at 2:00 am of 5th June because did not feel right, weather changed to windy and snowfalling; waited at South Col for others. Others on top at 9:00 am and all slept in C4 that night, weather (summiters to C4 at 2:00 pm). All down to BC next day because Icefall route being closed on 7th June. This only summit bid. Christopher O'Brien left on 4 May in helicopter with body of his brother Michael who hadn't clipped into Icefall rope 1/3 of way down the Icefall, slipped from big ice block into crevasse, died from internal injuries (fell total of 50m); brother was with him in Icefall descent. Oxygen: Clarke from 8200m because Sherpa said he was moving slowly to top to and in C4; Sherpa summiters from 7700m to top to and in C4.
Accidents Fatal fall by Mike O'Brien only
Achievement -
Agency Everest Parivar
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459717
Year 2005
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Claybourne Fox (Clay) Clarke M 1969 USA Climber Sante Fe, New Mexico Attorney Details Other expeditions
Arnold Coster M 1976 Netherlands Climber Utrecht, Netherlands Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Lars Johan Marcus Frankelius M 1968 Sweden Climber Uppsala, Sweden Student Details Other expeditions
Daniel Lee (Dan) Mazur M 1960 USA Leader Longbranch, Washington House builder & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Christopher J. (Chris) O'Brien M 1972 USA Climber Oswego, New York Physician Details Other expeditions
Michael Corey O'Brien M 1965 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Driver & bartender Details Other expeditions
Jens Voigt M 1975 Germany Climber Erlangen, Bavaria, Germany Stock broker Details Other expeditions
Tenji/Tenzing Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-6, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa (Kongle) Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-4, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER05195 - - http://www.everestnews.com/Summitclimb2005/everestnepal2005.htm - - -
EVER05195 - - http://www.frankelius.com/Johan/high_himalaya.html - - -