Everest | 2005 S Col-SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 2005 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 5th June 2005. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4970
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER05190
Peak ID EVER
Year 2005
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Henry Todd
Sponsor Himalayan Guides Everest and Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Hungary, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2005-04-10
Summit Date 2005-06-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 56
Total Days 58
Termination Date 2005-06-07
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather forecast and fierce winds
High Point (m) 8500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 700
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-051-04)
Campsites BC(10/04),C1(14/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(04/06,7900m),xxx(05/06,8500m)
Route Notes 1st summit party of Calder, Casserley, George and Holland planned to leave C3 20th May for C4, Sherpas to join them from C2, but never moved above C4 because weather forecast predicted strong wind, so instead went down to C2 and BC on 21st. Next party left C4 for top on 4th June: all members (except David and Todd) plus Sherpas Pasang Dawa, Gurmin Dorje, Lhakpa Thudu, Fura Sonam, Dawa Nuru, Tapche Bhote and Chewang Dorje left C4 at 10:30 pm on 4th. At 2:30 am of 5th the Balcony reached by Calder, Birrer, Holland, Casserley, Klein, George, Gurmin Dorje, Lhakpa Thudu and one Sherpa and waited there for other Sherpas to come up to them with the oxygen supplies they would need for safe round trip to top and back to C4. Parfet not feeling well and turned back to C4 from about 8400m. Davey and Milne reached 8200m, where Milne who suddenly dropped dead (presumably heart attack) at 2:30 am. Other Sherpas were busy trying to revive Milne, which was why they had not joined Calder, et al. There was no sign of life in Milne; his body left near trail covered with stones. Now very suddenly black clouds moved in, wind became very strong and it got very much colder, so all at Balcony turned down to C4 and on down to C2 same day. Climb now finished because weather forecasts were for more bad weather. Weather forecasts in May and early June proved quite wrong and Todd plans to try to find out why. Oxygen: all members from C3 to high points to wherever their supplies ran out in descent; Sherpas in C4 to high points to C4. Sherpas to the Balcony on Everest: Gurmin Dorje, 23/3/76, Pangboche, Everest X3 Lhakpa Thudu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X2, Annapurna X1 Dawa Nuru, 28 years, Pangboche, no 8000ers Chewang Dorje, Pangboche, 23 years, no 8000ers Fura Sonam, 35, Pangboche, no 8000ers (brother of Lhakpa Thudu) Tapche Bhote, 25 years, Hatiya, Makalu VDC, no 8000ers (not man with same name from same village who summited Cho Oyu in 2003) Other Sherpas: Pasang Dawa, Pangboche Lhotse bid: Only one attempt was made to reach Lhotse's top. Claire David and Pemba Tshering made their C4 on 4 June at 7600m, having climbed there from C3 at 7300m up Lhotse's West Face; got to about 8000m and then the wind and cold and black clouds sent them down to C2. David used oxygen from C4 to 8000m, Pemba Tshering used none. Sherpas to Lhotse: Pemba Tshering, 1965, Pangboche, Everest X2, Lhotse X1
Accidents Only fatal episode
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459717
Year 2005
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Richard B. Birrer M 1950 USA Exp Doctor Locust Valley, New York Physician Details Other expeditions
Timothy Miles Halcott (Tim) Calder M 1967 UK Climber Kathmandu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Robert Hargraves (Rob) Casserley M 1975 UK Exp Doctor Bath, Avon, England Physician (receiving surgical training) Details Other expeditions
Michael Edward Davey M 1965 UK Climber Burgess Hill, W Sussex, England Management consultant Details Other expeditions
Mark Andrew George M 1965 Australia Climber Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Financial advisor Details Other expeditions
Simon A. Holland M 1968 Australia Climber Alphington, New Zealand Orthopedic surgeon Details Other expeditions
David Klein M 1975 Hungary Climber Budapest, Hungary Book publisher Details Other expeditions
Robert William (Rob) Milne M 1956 UK Climber Westfield, W Lothian, England Computer systems designer Details Other expeditions
Robert Jackson (Bo) Parfet M 1977 USA Climber Hickory Corners, Michigan Post graduate student Details Other expeditions
Henry Barclay Todd M 1945 UK Leader Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland Expedition organizer & leader Details Other expeditions
Gurmin Dorje (Girmi Dorje) Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Thundu/Thudu (Tindu) Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Nuru Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chewang Dorje Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phur Sona (Ang Sonam) Sherpa M 1969 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Topchen (Tapchen Lama) Bhote M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Hatiya-3, Makalu-Barun (now Shomare, Khumbu) - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.