Everest | 2005 N Col-NE Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Everest in 2005 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Jamie McGuinness. Summit reached on 30th May 2005. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4918
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER05137
Peak ID EVER
Year 2005
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Jamie McGuinness
Sponsor DCXP 2005 to Everest 2005
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries India, Netherlands, UK, USA
Approach Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
Basecamp Date 2005-04-10
Summit Date 2005-05-30
Summit Time 0640
Summit Days 50
Total Days 55
Termination Date 2005-06-04
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7040m),C2(05/05,7680m),C3(29/05,8210m),Smt(30/05,04/06)
Route Notes Thompson left C1 at 7 am on 29 May, rested at C2 for a while and ascended to 8300m where he met Dawa at 12:30 am. They left at 1:30 am. After summiting they went to ABC (6 pm). Boslooper left C3 at 2 am, summited, and returned to ABC the same day (6 pm). Next day they left for KTM and arrived 6 June. Oxygen: Members from C2 to high points to C2. Sherpas in C3 to top to and in C3. McGuinness got to 8500m and turned back due to cold. Memon's highest point was 7500m on 28 May; he was too weak. Sukhi stayed at C2 from 28 May to 2 June. She refused to come down as she was under pressure from her family to climb Mt Everest. However, she was too weak to go up. She stayed up there mostly on her own and got very weak. On 1 June Boslooper and Namgyal stayed there and she made several calls to family from Boslooper's satellite phone. She decided to come down on 2nd June but she was so weak that she had to be short-roped and helped down by two Sherpa's (Dawa and Temba). She arrived in BC on 3 June. Duncan Chessell put a dispatch on Explorers.Net to appeal to her family to persuade her to come down. She arrived in KTM on 6 June and left on 7 June. Sherpas: Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, 15/2/67, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1 Namgyal, 1977, Rakha-5, Khotang, Cho Oyu X3 Dawangchu/Da Wongchhu, 4/4//79, Kurima, Lokhim, 1st 8000er Temba Sherpa (no summit), 4/9/77, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu June 1, 2005, 16:06 EST, McGuinness Everest North "This is a dispatch that shouldn't have been posted," writes a desperate Duncan Chessell. But he has no choice, one of the climbers, an Indian girl, refuses to come down from the mountain - allegedly pressured into the decision by her family. "Sukhi has not given us any phone numbers or contact details so this is the ugly public forum." writes Duncan, and pleads to the family: "Sukhi rang you yesterday from 7700m ot ask if it was Ok to come down like we have been telling her. You told her to push up - this is wrong, the situation is critical life and death. You need to allow her to come down - she listens to no one else - we have all tried." "Sukhi's sister just rang back our trekking agent to ask how much more to pay to give Sukhi more chance to go up as it is very important for families prestige. Either that or it is an elaborate plot to rid himself of herself of a family member.... Now directly I tell you... your sister Suhki is about to die is she does not come down." Read Duncan's plea for the climber's life, on his website (links section) "In 35+ expeditions I have never seen anything like this, it is cultural fatalism that I don't understand, I do know that time is running out and I hope the Sherpas can get her down one way or the other," writes Duncan ABC.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Explore Himalaya
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459666
Year 2005
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Paul Alexander Boslooper M 1961 Netherlands Climber Wape, Netherlands Trekking company owner Details Other expeditions
James Stuart (Jamie) McGuinness M 1965 New Zealand Leader Gisborne, New Zealand & Kathmandu Alpine and trekking guide and organizer Details Other expeditions
Mohammed A. (Moe) Memon M 1968 USA Climber Fountain Valley, California Executive of chain of clothing shop Details Other expeditions
Charles Julian Thompson M 1976 UK Climber London, England Physician Details Other expeditions
Sukhi Sukhwinder F 1970 India Climber Muktsar, Punjab, India Graduate student in social science Details Other expeditions
Dawa Gyalzen (Da Gyalzen) Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Sakpharma, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Da Ongchhu (Dawangchu) Sherpa M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Namgyal Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Rakha Bangdel-5, Khotang - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER05137 - - http://www.project-himalaya.com/dispatches/2005/05-everest-index.html - - -