Everest | 2004 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2004 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Bill Zachary. Summit reached on 17th May 2004. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	4624
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	EVER04162
Peak ID	EVER
Year	2004
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	USA
Leaders	Bill Zachary
Sponsor	Dream Everest Expedition
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	2004-04-03
Summit Date	2004-05-17
Summit Time	0900
Summit Days	44
Total Days	48
Termination Date	2004-05-21
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	8849
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	4
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	1
Summit Members	1
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	1
Summit Hired	1
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(03/04,5350m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(12/04,6450m),C3(26/04,7400m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
Route Notes	C1 at top of Icefall C2 at West Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Left C4 16th 8:45 pm, on top about 9:00 am Zachary and Mingma together. Frostbite due to taking off outer gloves to manueover better when difficult sections especially Hillary Step and even on way down did not focus on need to put gloves back on. Had difficulties at ice shelve just above Col and couldn't see route but went off to left and lost track of what happened next; next thing to remember was noise, woke up to lights used by Discovery Team using filming and then had Pasang Tshering with Belgiums calling him to get up. 8:30 pm in tent; about 2 hours gap in memory. Went on oxygen as soon as got in tent for hands, which were realized had 3 badly frostbitten fingers. Mingma went on ahead of Zachary since Zachary had said during ascent for him to go ahead. Used oxygen intermittently from C3 to C4 and on to top and down (probably not going down Hillary Step). When back in tent at C4 probably supply had run out. Mingma from C4 to top and down. Used to C3 on 18th again intermittently. Slept in C3. 19th in C2 and 20th to BC. Zachary has rope burn on left arm above wrist. Willie Benegas (leader of a US expedition on Everest that summited on 17 May) - 24 May 2004 Zachary collapsed on glacier just above South Col. Sherpas of other Asian Trekking clients were sent up to search for Zachary; they went up with bad headlamps, didn't find him, came back, were told to look again and on 3rd search found him at 10:00-11:00 pm.
Accidents	Zachary lost consciousness and has frostbite
Achievement	-
Agency	Asian Trekking
Commercial Route	True
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2459287
Year	2004
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	Used
Route (lowercase)	s col-se ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	35660
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	EVER04162
Member ID	01
Peak ID	EVER
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	William Bernard (Bill)
Last Name	Zachary
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1948
Calculated Age	55
Citizenship	USA
Status	Leader
Residence	Berkeley, California
Occupation	School teacher
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8849
Summit Date 1	2004-05-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	0900
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	From C3->C4 & on to top & down (not going down Hillary Step)
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	True
Injury Date	2004-05-17
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	3
Injury Height (m)	8800
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2430706
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	william bernard (bill) zachary
Year of Birth	1948
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	56
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	35661
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	EVER04162
Member ID	02
Peak ID	EVER
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Mingma
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1977
Calculated Age	26
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Thamo, Khumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8849
Summit Date 1	2004-05-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	0900
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	From C4->top & down
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	3rd ascent of Everest
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2441359
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mingma sherpa
Year of Birth	1977
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	27
Role	Hired

2 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
William Bernard (Bill) Zachary	M	1948	USA	Leader	Berkeley, California	School teacher	Details Other expeditions
Mingma Sherpa	M	1977	Nepal	H-A Worker	Thamo, Khumbu	-	Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.