Everest | 2004 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2004 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Thomas McMillan. Summit reached on 16th May 2004. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4626
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER04158
Peak ID EVER
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Thomas McMillan
Sponsor Everest: Friendship Beyond Borders Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Lukla->Island Peak->Everest BC
Basecamp Date 2004-04-04
Summit Date 2004-05-16
Summit Time 0730
Summit Days 42
Total Days 46
Termination Date 2004-05-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Island Peak (McMillan and Sherpas except Nawang)
Campsites BC(04/04,5300m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/04)
Route Notes BC at Khumbu Glacier C1 at usual campsite C2 at usual campsite C3 at usual campsite C4 at South Col. Left South Col two members and three Sherpas at 9:10 pm of 15th. McMillan and Nima Tashi summited at 7:30 am of 16th, Pemba Dorje Sherpa at 7:45 am (about), Nawang and Nima Gombu at 8:15 am. All waiting for Nawang on summit. Both members and all Sherpas left summit at 9:06 am. By 3 pm all members and Sherpas reached south Col. Next day to C2. On 18th to BC. Weather was perfect on summit day. Oxygen: Members McMillan and Nawang used oxygen from 7700m (above yellow band) and also for sleeping at South Col. On summit day oxygen used by members and Sherpas from South Col to summit and to South Col. Nawang's artificial leg is made by Dr. Tom Halvorson which cost between US$10,000-15,000. There was not any problem about the artificial leg. The expedition members returned to KTM on 23 May. McMillan's flight booking is on waiting list for June 5. The base camp manager Else had to leave BC on May 12 due to his job back home. He probably had left Nepal on 17th. Timothy Roberts took charge on BC on May 6th. McMillan said that Nawang was quite fit and his performance at times better than other normal climbers. Sherpas: Nima Gombu Sherpa (02-01-1969), Beding, Cho Oyu X1, 2004 summit on Everest is his 10th time Nima Tashi Sherpa, 4/4/60, Pangboche, smt on Everest is his 6th time Pemba Dorje, aka Pem Dorjee (1982-4-28), Chyangba, Tapting-1, Solu Spring 2004 Summit on Everest is his 1st 8000er
Accidents -
Achievement 1st Nepali on Everest summit prosthetic leg
Agency Peak Promotion
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459286
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lincoln Josiah Else M 1977 USA BC Manager Yosemite, California National park climbing ranger Details Other expeditions
Thomas Ian (Tom) McMillan M 1956 USA Leader San Rafael, California Database developer Details Other expeditions
Timothy G. Roberts M 1961 USA BC Manager Toluca Lake, California Actor Details Other expeditions
Nawang Sherpa M 1971 Nepal Climber Tapting, Solukhumbu Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Nima Tashi Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Dorje (Pem Dorje) Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Tapting, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Gombu (Gombu) Sherpa M 1969 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.