Everest | 2004 S Col-SE Ridge

A Argentina expedition to Everest in 2004 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Gustavo Lisi. Summit reached on 18th May 2004. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4616
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER04153
Peak ID EVER
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Argentina
Leaders Gustavo Lisi
Sponsor International Everest 2004
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-04-16
Summit Date 2004-05-18
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 32
Total Days 36
Termination Date 2004-05-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(28/05,6450m),C3(07/05,7500m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 at West Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Were delayed going up to C1 because had to wait for pujas at BC; Lama arrived for puja on 22nd April. Arrived at C4 on 16th and 17th rested at C4. Left C4 for top 8:00 pm of 17th and on top about 10:00 am of 18th; Dorje first, Lisa 2nd, Antezana and Mingma together last but only 10 minutes after Dorje. Stopped on top half an hour and started down about 10:30 am all 4 together. Dorje led descent of Hillary Step and waited at the bottom; Lisi joined him and Dorje down 20m, Lisi joined him; waited for Mingma and Antezana cross ridge to South Summit and Lisi went with them to South summit; 4 together on down together with 2 Sherpas giving Antezana help, one on each side of him; down to about balcony and Lisi says to balcony at 8400-8500m (but Sherpas to Benegas say to 50m above balcony). Lisi went ahead 20-40m and to balcony first and waited 30-40 minutes for other 3 who were increasing slow descending from South Summit; then down alone and stopped at "triangle" about 8300m and decided to biv there in his biv sack and go to sleep there; 2 Sherpas joined him at "triangle" about 7:00 pm without Antezana. Sherpas said Antezana was unconscious above balcony on Tibetan side so Sherpas put him with down jacket and left him there. Lisi & 2 Sherpas down; Sherpas went ahead, Lisi fell in icy sections above Col and got buried and lost head lamp so shouted for help and Irish expedition Sherpa went up to help him down to Col. Lisi to C2 to sleep on 19th BC 20th. Oxygen: Antezana in C4 to top and in descent; Lisi in C4 to top and down to South Summit when supply ran out; Sherpas from C4 to top and down to C4. Pat Falvey, leader of Irish team - 26/5/2004 Falvey's Sherpas helped Lisi down Geneva Spur because he was very weak and Lisi's Sherpas extremely tired. Falvey gave him oxygen and he used during part of his descent from C4 to C3. Falvey himself saw Lisi's members and Sherpas at 10:00 pm on 17th as they were going up the Triangle, and saw one of them, almost certainly Antezana, very insecure on his feet and moving very slowly. Falvey saw him again at 8:30 am on the 18th as Falvey was descending; Antezana was going up to South Summit, which had no snow or ice covering it and very therefore very difficult for inexperienced climber to negotiated with crampons on. Falvey's Sherpas were told by Antezana's Sherpas that he had grabbed the leg of someone descending, asking for help. Antezana's daughter told Falvey in KTM on 26 May that her father had taken $5000 for each Sherpas to get and promised $15,000 bonus to Lisi and $5000 for each Sherpas to get him to the summit and down again; this $25,000 is missing.
Accidents Antezana died (of exhaustion?) at balcony on descent from summit
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459288
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nils P. Antezana M 1935 USA Climber Washington, DC Clinic owner-manager Details Other expeditions
Gustavo Alberto Lisi Marinaro M 1971 Argentina Leader Salta, Argentina Professional alpinist & guide Details Other expeditions
Dorje (Dorje Lambu, Big Dorje) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering Sherpa M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER04153 - Kodas, Michael High Crimes Hyperion, New York - -