Everest | 2004 N Col-NE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2004 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Dan Mazur. Summit reached on 18th May 2004. 45 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4607
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER04144
Peak ID EVER
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Dan Mazur
Sponsor SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2004
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Ireland, Netherlands, New Zealand, S Africa, UK
Approach By helicopter to point near border
Basecamp Date 2004-04-14
Summit Date 2004-05-18
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 34
Total Days 48
Termination Date 2004-06-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1800
Total Members 28
Summit Members 9
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 17
Summit Hired 17
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13-Sherpas,14/04,5400m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(20-Sherpas,20/04,7050m),C1(22-members,22/04,7050m),C2(01/05,7600m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18,20,27,29/05)
Route Notes Details of Climb by Mazur's spring 2004 Everest Expedition: Four summit parties made bids for top and all put someone on top: First summit party left C3 on 17th May at 10:00 pm (NST) and all reached summit at noon on 18th. They were members Mislow, Haines, Waters, Pitula, Lhakpa Temba Sherpa and Tibetans Nurbu Tsipe and Dorje Karsang. All returned to C3 for the night except the two Tibetans, who went down to C2. Second summit party left C3 on the 19th at 11:00 pm, but only member and one Sherpa in the party actually summited (on the 20th). The others in the party were the brothers Andrew and Ian Prentice, Briggs, Drummond, Miller with Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa and Luda, a Tibetan. The weather that day was bad: wind and snowfall. Ian Prentice reached top of 3rd Step (8690m) alone at noon on the 20th, radioed to Mazur that he was afraid to go on up in such weather and asked whether he should go down instead; Mazur said he should, and Prentice went back to C3. Briggs had turned back at the 1st Step (8500m) at about 10:00 am with asthma attack. Drummond, who stumbled here and fallen slightly, turned back at the same point at about 11:00 am. Andrew Prentice and Miller turned around at 8450m. Prentice had been vomiting the day before and was a bit weak, Miller was uncomfortable wearing oxygen mask. Bredenkamp and Lhakpa Chiring went to the top at 2:30 pm despite the terrible weather. All in this party slept the night in C3. Third Summit party left C3 at 1:00 am on the 27th. They were members Horvath and Meyer; Sherpas Jangbu, Ang Phuri, Gyaluk, Tshering Dorje, Tenzing (Thami) and Tenji, and Tibetans Yunden and Wangdu. All climbed fast and reached the summit at 7:00 am. The two members descended all the way to the ABC with three Sherpas and both Tibetans while three other Sherpas stayed at C3. Fourth summit party left C3 at 11:15 pm on the 28th, and all except Spear reached the top in two groups on the 29th: Berg at 5:35 am with Tibetans Awang Norbu, Puba Tshering and Tashi Namgyal; Coster at 6:35 am with Sherpas Lhakpa Ongyal and Tenzing (Tumlingtar). All to ABC except Tenzing Ongyal, who stopped at C1. Spear turned back at 8400m. Oxygen use by all summiters: Members: Mislow in C1 all the way to top and down to ABC. Most others started on it in camp 2, half of them up from C2, and all from 8000m to C3, in C3 to top and down to C2; some even continued using it to ABC. Sherpas: all from 8000m to top and down to C3, some to C2, a few even down to C1. Tibetans: some in C3, all from C3 to top to C3. There were a number of cases of sickness (much of which Ian Prentice thought was due to the team's having been delayed leaving KTM for Tibet because of a nationwide general strike in Nepal and therefore having taken a helicopter to the hydroelectric station not far below the border. Those who became sick or frostbitten: Bendixen went to no higher than ABC, got pulmonary edema, had no more motivation, and left 4 May. Bernier got chest infection. Drummond got six toes frosbitten, but they will heal. Haines got pulmonary edema but recovered and summited. Hewson got cerebral edema at base camp, never went higher and left on 19 April. Marshall became generally sick at base camp, never went higher, left on 22 April. Miller got bad chest infection but recovered and summited. Pitula also bad chest infection, later summited. Waters got mild pulmonary edema, later summited. There were no accidents except for Drummond's fall at the First Step, as mentioned above. High points for non-summiting members: Bendixen - ABC Bernier - 7600m Briggs - First Step (8500m) Chatwin - C2, then left team a week early for family reasons Drummond - First Step (8500m) Hewson - base camp Long - 7600m Manning - 7600m Marshall - base camp Miller - 8450m Morrison - C1, left with Chatwin Nixon - C1 Andrew Prentice - 8450m Ian Prentice - top of Third Step 8690m Spear - 8400m Spencer - C3 Stalter - 7600m Sherpa summiters: Lhakpa Temba (18th), 4/8/73, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X2 Lhakpa Chhiring (20th), 7/4/64, Lokhim, Solu, Everest Jangbu (27th), 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 1st 8000er Ang Phuri (27th), 27, Patle, 1st 8000er Gyaluk (27th), 27, Patle, 1st 8000er Tshering Dorje (27th), 25/10/74, Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1 Tenzing (27th), 22/8/54, Thami, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1 Tenzing (27th), 1/6/82, Patle, 1st 8000er Lhakpa Ongyal (29th), 19/8/66, Tumlingtar, Makalu X1, Manaslu X1 Tenzing (29th), 1/10/75, Tumlingtar, 1st 8000er Tibetan summiters: Nurbu Tsipe (18th), Tashi Tsawa village Dorje Karsang (18th), old Tingri Yunden (27th), Tingri Wangdu (27th), Lhatse Awang Norbu (29th), Nyalam Puba Tshering (29th), Nyalam Tashi Namgyal (29th), Tingri
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Everest Parivar
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459243
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

45 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Patrick Bernier M 1975 Canada Climber Amos, Quebec Forest service employee Details Other expeditions
Ryan B. Bendixen M 1970 USA Climber Littleton, Colorado Technician Details Other expeditions
Felix Alexander Berg M 1980 Germany Climber Berlin, Germany Student Details Other expeditions
Andre Victor Bredenkamp M 1957 S Africa Climber Cape Town, S Africa Director of property development company Details Other expeditions
Jonathan Briggs M 1967 UK Climber Aberdeen, Scotland Oil operations technician Details Other expeditions
Troy J. Chatwin M 1970 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Physician's assistant Details Other expeditions
Arnold Coster M 1976 Netherlands Climber Rotterdam, Netherlands Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Chris Drummond M 1958 UK Climber Cape Town, S Africa Property developer Details Other expeditions
Thomas Haines M 1981 USA Climber Fort Collins, Colorado Student Details Other expeditions
Dene William (Deno) Hewson M 1971 New Zealand Climber Tokyo, Japan Personnel consultant Details Other expeditions
Timothy Stephen Horvath M 1970 USA Climber Cherry Valley, New York Contractor Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mick) Long M 1960 Ireland Climber Rathmore, Kerry, Ireland Software engineer Details Other expeditions
Bruce Manning M 1950 UK Climber Langford, N Somerset, England Engineer Details Other expeditions
William Bly (Will) Marshall Jr. M 1946 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Counselor on emotional problems Details Other expeditions
Daniel Lee (Dan) Mazur M 1960 USA Leader Longbranch, Washington House builder Details Other expeditions
Eric Fredrick Meyer M 1964 USA Climber Steamboat Springs, Colorado Physician Details Other expeditions
Garth Neal Miller M 1974 Australia Climber Datchet, Berkshire, England Airline pilot Details Other expeditions
John M. K. Mislow M 1970 USA Exp Doctor Chicago, Illinois Neurosurgeon Details Other expeditions
Duane S. Morrison M 1957 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Communications engineer Details Other expeditions
Michael William (Mike) Nixon M 1959 UK Climber Cape Town, S Africa Property developer Details Other expeditions
Franck Pitula M 1964 France Climber Bourg les Valence, Drome, France Electricity company employee Details Other expeditions
Andrew (Andy) Prentice M 1975 UK Climber Coventry, England Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Ian Prentice M 1977 UK Climber Coventry, England Business staffs skill trainer Details Other expeditions
Keith Spencer M 1963 USA Climber Laramie, Wyoming Geologist Details Other expeditions
Kenneth D. Stalter M 1954 USA Climber Franklin, New York Physician Details Other expeditions
Ryan Powers Waters M 1973 USA Climber Atlanta, Georgia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Timothy Spear M 1964 UK Climber Harpenden, Hertford, England Property investor Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Temba Sherpa M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Chhiring/Chhiri Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Jangbu Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-4, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Phuri (Ang Phuri) Sherpa M 1969 Nepal H-A Worker Patle, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Gyaluk (Gyalu Lama) Sherpa M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-5, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Chhiring Dorje Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing (Tenzen, Tenzi) Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tenji/Tenzing Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-6, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Ongyal (Lhakpa Wangel) Sherpa M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Tsipe (Tsepin, Cipei) M 1985 China H-A Worker Tashi Tsawa, Tingri, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Dorje Karsang (Dorje Gesang) M 1980 China H-A Worker Nyalam Dzong, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Yonten (Yundan, Yungden) M 1983 China H-A Worker Tsako, Tingri Dzong, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Wangdu (Wangqing) M 1979 China H-A Worker Lhatse, Lhatse Dzong, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Phurtse (Pubu Tsering) M 1984 China H-A Worker Tsongdu, Nyalam Dzong, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Tashi Namgyal (Zhaxi Nanjia) M 1982 China H-A Worker Shigatse, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Ngawang Norbu (Awang Luobo) M 1980 China H-A Worker Nyalam Dzong, Tibet, China - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing (Tenjen) Sherpa M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Bridget Rossiter-O'Flynn F 1960 Ireland Climber New Ross, Wexford, Ireland Hotel marketing manager Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER04144 - - http://summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?linktype=r&mtype=smenu&vid=18&nid=19 - - -