Everest | 2004 N Col-NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 2004 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Kenji Kondo. Summit reached on 20th May 2004. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4597
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER04131
Peak ID EVER
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kenji Kondo
Sponsor Adventure Guides Chomolungma Expedition 2004
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 2004-04-25
Summit Date 2004-05-20
Summit Time 1047
Summit Days 25
Total Days 31
Termination Date 2004-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 600
Total Members 8
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/04,5200m),ABC(03/05,6400m),C1(17/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes ABC at 6400m all team and all climbing Sherpas C1 at 7000m by Kondo, Ishii, Ota, Takahashi and Sherpas C2 at 7800m by same members C3 at 8200m by same members. Started from C3 at 00:00 am (NST), summited at 10:47, stayed above 10-15 minutes,made pictures. Windy, snowing before them, was 1 Indian member. Came back to C3 at 8:55 pm. Mrs. Ota died when going down from 2nd Step. She used the fixed rope and slipped down 1m, maybe hit her head or more probably "enstranged" herself with the rope and had heart attack. Ota's crampon was trapped in a bunch of old fixed rope. On 22-23, the 3 Sherpas carried her body 12m lower and burried her. Their descent greatly delayed by Mrs Ota's fatal accident. Kondo reached Ota in less than 1-2 minutes after the accident, but she was already dead. Other members reached only C2 and after. Knowing about the death of Mrs Ota abandoned the climb. Sherpa summiters: Chuwang Nima, 20/8/67 (or 4/5/67), Phurte, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X2 Ngima Nuru, 6/11/81, Thami, Everest X2 Pema Gyalzen, 20/10/69, Thami, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1 Nima Nurbu, 20/2/80, Thami [added] Kenji Kondo, leader of Everest teams on North Col route in Spring 2004 and 2006 - 23 May 2006. Mrs Ota, Mr Takahashi and three Sherpas left C3 to climb to the summit at 11:30-12:00 pm (NST) on 19 May. Three members and the three Sherpas arrived at the summit at 10:30 am on the 20th. Mr Takahashi, Kondo and the three Sherpas returned to C3 at 7:00 pm or slightly later. No one member or Sherpas from the expedition went again from C3 during the night of May 20 or before sunrise on the 21st. C3 was at 8200m.
Accidents Ota fatal fall at Second Step
Achievement Oldest woman on top Everest
Agency Rolwaling Excursion
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459245
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroshi Hanazaki M 1943 Japan Climber Mobara, Chiba, Japan Manages store selling movie CDs Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Ishii M 1944 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Retired engineer Details Other expeditions
Kenji Kondo M 1962 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Ogawa M 1942 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Construction company executive Details Other expeditions
Yoshitomi Okura M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Shoko Ota F 1941 Japan Climber Fukuyama, Hiroshima, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Yasuko Shiraiwa F 1938 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Takahashi M 1957 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Computer programmer & acupunturist Details Other expeditions
Chhuwang Nima Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Tesho, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ngima Nuru (Nima Nuru) Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Tesho, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Gyalzen/Geljen Sherpa M 1969 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Nurbu Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Thamiteng, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER04131 CLIM - - - 4:97 (Jun 2005) -