Everest | 2004 N Face (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down)

A Russia expedition to Everest in 2004 via N Face (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down), led by Victor Kozlov. Summit reached on 30th May 2004. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4593
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER04127
Peak ID EVER
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Victor Kozlov
Sponsor Russian Everest Expedition Central North Wall 2004
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Uzbekistan
Approach KTM by road to BC
Basecamp Date 2004-03-30
Summit Date 2004-05-30
Summit Time 0745
Summit Days 61
Total Days 66
Termination Date 2004-06-04
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 5000
Total Members 21
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Ama Dablem (AMAD-041-10)
Campsites BC(30/03),ABC1(02/04,5600m),ABC2(03/04,6200m),C1(20/04,7100m),C2(28/04,7500m),C3(11/05,7800m),C4(27/05,8250m),C5(28/05,8600m),Smt(30-31/05,01/06)
Route Notes BC at normal Everest north site ABC1 at east side of Rongbuk Glacier ABC2 between crevasses near bottom of North Face C1 on North Face C2 on North Face C3 on North Face C4 on North Face on small rock ledge C5 on North Face on small rock ledge. 2 ABCs because very far from BC to bottom of North Face. To ABC-2 not difficult but very dangerous from stones falling just below C1 in small couloir nearly vertical climb. From C1 to C2 not so steep but rock slabs and thin snow; same condition to C2 and C3. Climbed with very steep grey rock to yellow rock and C4 on small ledge. From C4 up yellow rock all at first also very steep for first 200m, then slope eases off to C4 also on small ledge. Above C4 very difficult technically because vertical rock crumbled and impossible to fix rope. Shabalin made only 50m altitude in one day using belay from C5; did not continue on this direct vertical line because too dangerous and would take at least 2 more days and to gain the next 50m, so now from C5 traversed to left 200m, then circled back around and above crumbling rock area to gain 100m vertical and to return to direct line above C5. From C5 to top not so difficult. In descent all down normal North Col routes. Abramov's North Col expedition left tent for this expedition at 8300m with food, gas oxygen, sleeping bags. This tent used only by 1st summit group who were very tired having fixed ropes below 8500m face and tried to make direct route above C5. 2nd and 3rd summit parties went down from summit to ABC except Volodine who continued to BC same day, 1 June. Summit timings: 1st group left C5 7:00 am Chinese time (4:45 am NST), on top 10:00 am (7:45 am NST) and down to 8300m at 2:00 pm (11:45 am NST). 2nd group left C5 7:00 am, on top 9:15 am (7:00 am NST) and down to ABC 8:00 pm (5:45 NST). 3rd group left C5 7:00 am, on top 9:00 am (6:45 am NST) and down to ABC 1:45 pm and Volodin at 9:00 pm in BC. Shared ABC with Abramov expedition but on 1 June no room for 2 members, so Volodin had to go to BC. Oxygen: Sherpas none. Members all from C3 to top all the way (except some did not use it for sleeping) to 8300m by some, for some oxygen ran out before descending to 8300m. In addition, oxygen not used by members fixing rope from C3 to C4 and at 8600m while fixing rope.
Accidents Bobok and Jilin hit by falling stones below C1 (had to wait 10 days before going up again)
Achievement 1st ascent of this route to top
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459255
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face (up); ne ridge-n col (down)

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vladimir Arkhipov M 1955 Russia Climber Sosnovborsk, Krasnoyarski Kray, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Victor Bobok M 1961 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Financial manager of small business Details Other expeditions
Igor Borisenko M 1962 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Alexei Bukinich M 1981 Russia Climber Sochi, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sergei Bychkovski M 1956 Russia Exp Doctor Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Director Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny M 1938 Russia Deputy Leader Moscow, Russia Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Yuri Ermachek M 1962 Russia Climbing Leader Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Nikolai (Nike) Jiline M 1950 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Yuri Koshelenko M 1963 Russia Climbing Leader Rostov-on-Don, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Piotr (Petr) Kouznetsov M 1958 Russia Climbing Leader Jelesnogorsk, Russia Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Victor Kozlov M 1956 Russia Leader Moscow, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Kuptsov M 1957 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Photographer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Lavrinenko M 1964 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Teacher in high technical school Details Other expeditions
Andrej Mariev M 1971 Russia Climber Togliatti, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexander Pyatnitsin M 1955 Russia BC Manager Rostov-on-Don, Russia Mountain club director Details Other expeditions
Pavel Shabalin M 1961 Russia Climber Kirov, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Sergei Shakuro M 1956 Russia Climber Novokuznetsk, Russia Television cameraman Details Other expeditions
Gleb Sokolov M 1953 Russia Climber Novosibirsk, Siberia, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Ilyas Tukhvatullin M 1958 Uzbekistan Climber Podolsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Vinogradski M 1946 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Victor Volodine M 1962 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.