Everest | 2004 N Face (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down)
A Russia expedition to Everest in 2004 via N Face (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down), led by Victor Kozlov. Summit reached on 30th May 2004. 21 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4593 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER04127 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 2004 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Face (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Russia |
| Leaders | Victor Kozlov |
| Sponsor | Russian Everest Expedition Central North Wall 2004 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Uzbekistan |
| Approach | KTM by road to BC |
| Basecamp Date | 2004-03-30 |
| Summit Date | 2004-05-30 |
| Summit Time | 0745 |
| Summit Days | 61 |
| Total Days | 66 |
| Termination Date | 2004-06-04 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 5000 |
| Total Members | 21 |
| Summit Members | 8 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Ama Dablem (AMAD-041-10) |
| Campsites | BC(30/03),ABC1(02/04,5600m),ABC2(03/04,6200m),C1(20/04,7100m),C2(28/04,7500m),C3(11/05,7800m),C4(27/05,8250m),C5(28/05,8600m),Smt(30-31/05,01/06) |
| Route Notes | BC at normal Everest north site ABC1 at east side of Rongbuk Glacier ABC2 between crevasses near bottom of North Face C1 on North Face C2 on North Face C3 on North Face C4 on North Face on small rock ledge C5 on North Face on small rock ledge. 2 ABCs because very far from BC to bottom of North Face. To ABC-2 not difficult but very dangerous from stones falling just below C1 in small couloir nearly vertical climb. From C1 to C2 not so steep but rock slabs and thin snow; same condition to C2 and C3. Climbed with very steep grey rock to yellow rock and C4 on small ledge. From C4 up yellow rock all at first also very steep for first 200m, then slope eases off to C4 also on small ledge. Above C4 very difficult technically because vertical rock crumbled and impossible to fix rope. Shabalin made only 50m altitude in one day using belay from C5; did not continue on this direct vertical line because too dangerous and would take at least 2 more days and to gain the next 50m, so now from C5 traversed to left 200m, then circled back around and above crumbling rock area to gain 100m vertical and to return to direct line above C5. From C5 to top not so difficult. In descent all down normal North Col routes. Abramov's North Col expedition left tent for this expedition at 8300m with food, gas oxygen, sleeping bags. This tent used only by 1st summit group who were very tired having fixed ropes below 8500m face and tried to make direct route above C5. 2nd and 3rd summit parties went down from summit to ABC except Volodine who continued to BC same day, 1 June. Summit timings: 1st group left C5 7:00 am Chinese time (4:45 am NST), on top 10:00 am (7:45 am NST) and down to 8300m at 2:00 pm (11:45 am NST). 2nd group left C5 7:00 am, on top 9:15 am (7:00 am NST) and down to ABC 8:00 pm (5:45 NST). 3rd group left C5 7:00 am, on top 9:00 am (6:45 am NST) and down to ABC 1:45 pm and Volodin at 9:00 pm in BC. Shared ABC with Abramov expedition but on 1 June no room for 2 members, so Volodin had to go to BC. Oxygen: Sherpas none. Members all from C3 to top all the way (except some did not use it for sleeping) to 8300m by some, for some oxygen ran out before descending to 8300m. In addition, oxygen not used by members fixing rope from C3 to C4 and at 8600m while fixing rope. |
| Accidents | Bobok and Jilin hit by falling stones below C1 (had to wait 10 days before going up again) |
| Achievement | 1st ascent of this route to top |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2459255 |
| Year | 2004 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n face (up); ne ridge-n col (down) |
Members
21 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vladimir Arkhipov | M | 1955 | Russia | Climber | Sosnovborsk, Krasnoyarski Kray, Russia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Victor Bobok | M | 1961 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Financial manager of small business | Details Other expeditions |
| Igor Borisenko | M | 1962 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexei Bukinich | M | 1981 | Russia | Climber | Sochi, Russia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Bychkovski | M | 1956 | Russia | Exp Doctor | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia | Director | Details Other expeditions |
| Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny | M | 1938 | Russia | Deputy Leader | Moscow, Russia | Carpenter | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuri Ermachek | M | 1962 | Russia | Climbing Leader | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Nikolai (Nike) Jiline | M | 1950 | Russia | Climber | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuri Koshelenko | M | 1963 | Russia | Climbing Leader | Rostov-on-Don, Russia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Piotr (Petr) Kouznetsov | M | 1958 | Russia | Climbing Leader | Jelesnogorsk, Russia | Construction engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Victor Kozlov | M | 1956 | Russia | Leader | Moscow, Russia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Kuptsov | M | 1957 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Lavrinenko | M | 1964 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Teacher in high technical school | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrej Mariev | M | 1971 | Russia | Climber | Togliatti, Russia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Pyatnitsin | M | 1955 | Russia | BC Manager | Rostov-on-Don, Russia | Mountain club director | Details Other expeditions |
| Pavel Shabalin | M | 1961 | Russia | Climber | Kirov, Russia | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Shakuro | M | 1956 | Russia | Climber | Novokuznetsk, Russia | Television cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Gleb Sokolov | M | 1953 | Russia | Climber | Novosibirsk, Siberia, Russia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Ilyas Tukhvatullin | M | 1958 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Podolsk, Russia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Evgeni Vinogradski | M | 1946 | Russia | Climber | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Victor Volodine | M | 1962 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER04127 | HIGH | - | - | - | 262:6 (Sep 2004) | - |
| EVER04127 | CLIM | - | - | - | 4:96-97 (Jun 2005) | - |
| EVER04127 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 79:438-440 (2005) | - |
| EVER04127 | AAJ | Koshelenko, Yuri | - | - | 79:440-441 (2005) | - |
| EVER04127 | - | - | http://www.russianclimb.com/EverestNF/18_03_en.html | - | - | - |
| EVER04127 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200543802/Asia-Tibet-HimalayaMahalangur-Hima-Everest-North-Face-New-Route | - | - | - |
| EVER04127 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200544000/Asia-Tibet-HimalayaMahalangur-Himal-Everest-North-Face-New-Route-Personal-Commentary-on-History-and-Style | - | - | - |