Everest | 2004 S Col-SE Ridge
A UK expedition to Everest in 2004 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 16th May 2004. 18 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4570 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER04123 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 2004 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Henry Todd |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, France, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2004-04-05 |
| Summit Date | 2004-05-16 |
| Summit Time | 0700 |
| Summit Days | 41 |
| Total Days | 51 |
| Termination Date | 2004-05-26 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 13 |
| Summit Members | 7 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 10 |
| Summit Hired | 5 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(05/04),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6400m),C3(20/04,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05) |
| Route Notes | C1 at top of Icefall C2 at West Cwm C3 at Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. 16th May summit party left C4 for top at 9:30 pm on 15th and to top: Mrs Todd at 7:00 am with Pasang Nuru (aka Ang Nuru); Jack 8:00 am with Pasang Dawa and Pasang Chhiri and Jen; Atkins between 9:30 and 10:00 am and all to C4 that night. 24th summit party C4 9:50 pm 23rd and Saunders, Oliver Burr, Gurmi Dorje on top 8:10 am of 24th; Deegan and Lhakpa Thundu at 9:00 am. All down to C4 from top at 9:15 am and got C4 about 1:30 pm and slept there. 2nd summit attempt had been made by all 24th summiters and Charles Burr left for top on 19 May at 9:30 pm and at 8500m below balcony at 2:00 am; strong wind and spindrift and down to C3 and C2. Summit Sherpas: Pasang Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X4, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X3 Pasang Nuru, 11/2/66, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2 Gurmi Dorje, 23/7/76, Pangboche, Everest X2 Lhakpa Thundu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X1, Anna X1 Oxygen: All members in all 3 summit bids from C3, to and in C4, to top to C4 and in C4 if any left All Sherpas from C4 to top to C4 Carr left about 20 April - no motivation. Clemenson left 18 April - reason unknown, he just suddenly left. Piper left about 20th April - not well. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Himalayan Guides |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2459241 |
| Year | 2004 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
18 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ian Edward (Ted) Atkins | M | 1958 | UK | Climber | Bulmer Tye, Essex, England | Engineering officer in RAF | Details Other expeditions |
| Charles Henry Burr | M | 1953 | UK | Climber | Wilmslow, Cheshire, England | Company director | Details Other expeditions |
| Oliver James Burr | M | 1981 | UK | Climber | Wilmslow, Cheshire, England | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Mark Carr | M | 1951 | UK | Climber | Gilford, Northern Ireland | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Robert Clemenson | M | 1938 | France | Climber | Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France | Sports shop owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Robert Deegan | M | 1970 | UK | Climber | Burnham, Buckingham, England | Writer | Details Other expeditions |
| Victoria (Vicky) Jack | F | 1953 | UK | Climber | Balquhidder, Perth, Scotland | Director of several businesses in oil and water industries | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert Vincent (Bob) Jen | M | 1953 | USA | Climber | New York, New York | Real estate developer | Details Other expeditions |
| Simon Piper | M | 1948 | UK | Exp Doctor | Gilford, Northern Ireland | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Anthony Victor (Vic) Saunders | M | 1950 | UK | Climber | Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Henry Barclay Todd | M | 1945 | UK | Leader | Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland | Expedition organizer & leader | Details Other expeditions |
| Susan Harper Todd | F | 1960 | UK | Climber | Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| John George Wylie | M | 1971 | Australia | Climber | Launceston, Tasmania, Australia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando) Sherpa | M | 1977 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Nuru (Ang Nurbu/Nuru) Sherpa | M | 1976 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Tshering (Ang Tshering) Sherpa | M | 1976 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gurmin Dorje (Girmi Dorje) Sherpa | M | 1976 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Thundu/Thudu (Tindu) Sherpa | M | 1970 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.