Everest | 2004 S Col-SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 2004 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 16th May 2004. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4570
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER04123
Peak ID EVER
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Henry Todd
Sponsor Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, France, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-04-05
Summit Date 2004-05-16
Summit Time 0700
Summit Days 41
Total Days 51
Termination Date 2004-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6400m),C3(20/04,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 at West Cwm C3 at Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. 16th May summit party left C4 for top at 9:30 pm on 15th and to top: Mrs Todd at 7:00 am with Pasang Nuru (aka Ang Nuru); Jack 8:00 am with Pasang Dawa and Pasang Chhiri and Jen; Atkins between 9:30 and 10:00 am and all to C4 that night. 24th summit party C4 9:50 pm 23rd and Saunders, Oliver Burr, Gurmi Dorje on top 8:10 am of 24th; Deegan and Lhakpa Thundu at 9:00 am. All down to C4 from top at 9:15 am and got C4 about 1:30 pm and slept there. 2nd summit attempt had been made by all 24th summiters and Charles Burr left for top on 19 May at 9:30 pm and at 8500m below balcony at 2:00 am; strong wind and spindrift and down to C3 and C2. Summit Sherpas: Pasang Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X4, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X3 Pasang Nuru, 11/2/66, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2 Gurmi Dorje, 23/7/76, Pangboche, Everest X2 Lhakpa Thundu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X1, Anna X1 Oxygen: All members in all 3 summit bids from C3, to and in C4, to top to C4 and in C4 if any left All Sherpas from C4 to top to C4 Carr left about 20 April - no motivation. Clemenson left 18 April - reason unknown, he just suddenly left. Piper left about 20th April - not well.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459241
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ian Edward (Ted) Atkins M 1958 UK Climber Bulmer Tye, Essex, England Engineering officer in RAF Details Other expeditions
Charles Henry Burr M 1953 UK Climber Wilmslow, Cheshire, England Company director Details Other expeditions
Oliver James Burr M 1981 UK Climber Wilmslow, Cheshire, England Student Details Other expeditions
Mark Carr M 1951 UK Climber Gilford, Northern Ireland Attorney Details Other expeditions
Jean Robert Clemenson M 1938 France Climber Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Sports shop owner Details Other expeditions
Paul Robert Deegan M 1970 UK Climber Burnham, Buckingham, England Writer Details Other expeditions
Victoria (Vicky) Jack F 1953 UK Climber Balquhidder, Perth, Scotland Director of several businesses in oil and water industries Details Other expeditions
Robert Vincent (Bob) Jen M 1953 USA Climber New York, New York Real estate developer Details Other expeditions
Simon Piper M 1948 UK Exp Doctor Gilford, Northern Ireland Physician Details Other expeditions
Anthony Victor (Vic) Saunders M 1950 UK Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Henry Barclay Todd M 1945 UK Leader Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland Expedition organizer & leader Details Other expeditions
Susan Harper Todd F 1960 UK Climber Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
John George Wylie M 1971 Australia Climber Launceston, Tasmania, Australia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando) Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Nuru (Ang Nurbu/Nuru) Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tshering (Ang Tshering) Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Gurmin Dorje (Girmi Dorje) Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Thundu/Thudu (Tindu) Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER04123 HIGH Todd, Susan I'm on the Summit of Everest - 266:24-25 (Jan 2005) -
EVER04123 - Magnusson, Anna The Sky's the Limit Black & White Publishing, UK - -