Everest | 2004 N Col-NE Ridge

A Bulgaria expedition to Everest in 2004 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Mariana Maslarova. Summit reached on 23rd May 2004. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4578
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER04109
Peak ID EVER
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Bulgaria
Leaders Mariana Maslarova
Sponsor Independent climber
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 2004-04-07
Summit Date 2004-05-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 46
Total Days 53
Termination Date 2004-05-30
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Disappeared at 8700m
High Point (m) 8700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7100m),C2(20/04,7800m),C3(22/04,8300m),xxx(23/04,8700m)
Route Notes BC at CBC/IC on 12th at 5600m C2 at North Col High point at Third Step. According to Maslarova's Sherpa, Mingma Dorje, she was last seen on Third Step on May 23 by Russell Brice through his telescope at about 2:30 pm (NST). Mingma said she was very slow. For instance on April 20, Mingma and Maslarova planned to go to C1 from ABC and to return to ABC. But Maslarova took 8 hours to reach to C1 and had to sleep, both of them in C1, as it was too late to return to ABC. On May 20th it took her 11 hours to reach C2 from C1. At C2 Maslarava started vomiting. Mingma worried about her condition asked her if she was Ok. She told Mingma that she was Ok. Vomit came not due to altitude but from the fluid in her nose passed on to throat. On May 21 Mingma went to C3 and set up the camp for her. Mingma said he waited for five hours at C3, but Maslarova did not show up. Then Mingma went down to look for Maslarova. Mingma met her at about 7900m and both went down to C2. Mingma suggested her not to try for summit as he feels she is very weak and very slow. Same was suggested to her by Studer couple, who told Maslarova that the couple have been on Everest for eight times and they had very little opportunity to go for summit without oxygen and considering her speed Studer suggested Maslarova to give up for this time. But Maslarova insisted that she must try for summit because lot of people helped her financially and morally for the expedition and she had to do it. Maslarova bought two oxygen bottles from Russian Expedition intending to used for summit. She asked Mingma to help arrange to put one bottle of oxygen bottle for her at bottom of the Second Step and that she could summit. Mingma managed to put up a bottle of oxygen through his Sherpa friend working for the Russell Brice expedition. Mingma said while she was below the Second Step it was already late to continue further. Brice expedition members asked her to turn down as it was already late. But she insisted to go up. After that nobody has seen her. The climbers who went up after 23rd, did not see any sign of her. Mingma waited for any news about her; finally they reported to Dawa (KTM) about Maslarova's missing through Brice's telephone on 26th or 27th (Mingma could not remember exact date). Mingma is thankful to Brice for his help and also for allowing his telephone without charge. Russian expedition leader Abramov went up to summit on 24th. He did not find any sign of Maslarova, but he saw the dead body of Hristov (Bulgarian). Mingma Dorje was not with her in her climb above C2 because his role from ABC up was only to pitch C2. Mingma Dorje Sherpa, (1967-12-31), Yulkiding, Khumjung, Khumbu (summited Cho Oyu in 2002 with Heider/Germany) Mrs Mariana Maslarova, Bulgarian, via Everest's North Col - 1 June, 2004 Details of climb continued: Information from Russell Brice, veteran leader of North Col expeditions who was present at the time of Mrs. Maslarova's climb. On 23 May, a summit party of 20 people from Brice's expedition, during their descent of the Second Step, met Mrs. Maslarova there at 1:30-2:00 pm NST and told her to turn back and return to her camp because she was extremely slow and it was too late for her to get to the summit. But she continued her ascent. Brice watched her through his telescope, saw her take one step, fall down, get up, take another step, fall down again, time afer time. At about 5:30 pm (by which time he had seen her throw away her oxygen bottle), he saw her at the top of the Third Step (8700m) and below the snow covered area. Now there was no visibility. Next morning, on the 24th, Brice searched with this telescope everywhere but saw no trace of her, and his own summit party that day also found no trace of her. While on the top, they asked summiters from the SE Ridge whether they had seen anything of her, and they said they had not. Her Sherpa told Brice he had told her early in the her climb that she was too slow and must turn back, but she ignored his advice; she bought some oxygen bottles and continued to go up. On about 10 May, her Sherpa took her oxygen bottles ot 8300m and pitched her tent there, but he refused to stay with her above this C3 because, he told Brice, he didn't want to die too.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459248
Year 2004
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mariana Prodanova Maslarova F 1961 Bulgaria Leader Sofia, Bulgaria Housewife Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.