Everest | 2004 N Col-NE Ridge

A Bulgaria expedition to Everest in 2004 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Metodi Savov. Summit reached on 18th May 2004. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4576
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER04107
Peak ID EVER
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Bulgaria
Leaders Metodi Savov
Sponsor Bulgarian Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 2004-04-08
Summit Date 2004-05-18
Summit Time 0830
Summit Days 40
Total Days 48
Termination Date 2004-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04,5100m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(07/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18,20/05)
Route Notes BC at CBC on 13th at 5900m C1 at North Col C2 at usual campsite. Totev and Tendi Sherpa left C3 at 11:30 pm (NST) on 17th, summited at 08:30 am on 18th, stayed about 45 minutes, descended to C3 between 4-5 pm. Next day to C1. Weather was very good. About 10 people were on summit - 2 Indians, 2 British and Sherpas. Boyanov and Hristov left C3 at midnight Chinese Time (9:45 NST) of 19th without oxygen. Boyanov summited at 9:20 am on 20th, stayed about 15-20 minutes descended to C3 at 3 pm; Hristov summited at 1 pm. Hristov did not return to lower camp. One of Brice Sherpas found his body right above the Second Step on May 22nd. Petkov left C3 at 3 am on 20th, summited at 9:00 am with oxygen. Stayed on summit more than one hour waiting for somebody to help to snap his picture. His own camera had battery problem. He returned to C3 at 2:45 pm. At C3 started problem with his eyes (blindness). Boyanov and Petkov waited for Hristov, but he did not show up. On 21st Boyanov reported to expedition leader Savov over radio that Hristov is missing. Boyanov, on 21st went out searching Hristov up to 8500m - had to return to C3 due to bad weather. Also, Boyanov had to help Petkov who suffered from blindness to descend to lower camp; weather was not good on that day. Boyanov and Petkov descended to C1. Oxygen used: Totev used oxygen from C2 7700m to summit and down to C2. Also used for sleep. Petkov used oxygen from C3 to summit and to C3, also for sleep. Tendi used oxygen from C3 to summit and back to C3. Boyanov and Hristov never used oxygen. Other members: Miss Misheva went up to C2 on 8th, suffered from chest pain while at North Col on 15th, left for ABC. Leader Savov up to ABC. Expedition doctor up to ABC. Temelkov went up to 8400m on May 22, had to return C3 due to bad weather. Zhelyazkov went up to 8200m on 21st with Temelkov and Valtchev, started vomiting, then went down to C2. Valtchev went up to 8500m twice on May 22 and 30th. Valtchev returned to KTM on June 4 leaving on 10th (talked to him on June 4th over telephone). The expedition members (8) returned to KTM on May 27 and to leave on 30th. Sherpas: Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 27/10/83, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, 1st 8000er, now KTM Boudha, Mahankal, KTM, summit on May 18 Nima Nuru Sherpa, with his expedition up to 7000m
Accidents Petkov's blindness; Hristov died during descent
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459243
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Doichin Vencislavov Boyanov M 1976 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Sports academy student Details Other expeditions
Hristo Ganchev Hristov M 1977 Bulgaria Climber Smolian, Bulgaria Student of sculputuring Details Other expeditions
Tzveta Dimitrova Misheva F 1976 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Graduate student in sports pyschology Details Other expeditions
Nikolay Mihaylov Petkov M 1958 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Metodi Stefanov Savov M 1947 Bulgaria Leader Sofia, Bulgaria Sports center manager Details Other expeditions
Karina Salova Ivanova F 1953 Bulgaria Exp Doctor Vratza, Bulgaria Physician Details Other expeditions
Ivan Georgiev Temelkov M 1974 Bulgaria Climber Sliven, Bulgaria Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Petko Petkov Totev M 1959 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Manager of climbing equipment distributing company Details Other expeditions
Ivan Georgiev Valtchev M 1947 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Stanimir Ivanov Zhelyazkov M 1976 Bulgaria Climber Sliven, Bulgaria Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tendi Sherpa M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER04107 CLIM - - - 4:97 (Jun 2005) -