Everest | 2003 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2003 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Gary Guller. Summit reached on 23rd May 2003. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4272
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER03124
Peak ID EVER
Year 2003
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Gary Guller
Sponsor Team Everest 2003
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Canada
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2003-04-08
Summit Date 2003-05-23
Summit Time 1215
Summit Days 45
Total Days 47
Termination Date 2003-05-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 at West Cwm C3 at Lhotse face C4 at South Col. Guller, Scott and 4 Sherpas left C4 for top 8:00 pm 22 May. Scott at midnight turned back at 8200m without oxygen because was too cold to continue. Guller and Sherpas summited at 12:15 pm together without Scott. No one else was on top at this time; thus were going down at that time. "Fullfillmment of a dream" and especially nice that top was not crowded and he was with people that he knew. Slept in C4 (arrived at Col 20 May and slept there 4 nights) and got snowblind for few minutes till medicine cleared his sight. Had taken off googles at top of Hillary Step to keep balance since no left arm to help. Returned to C4 at 7:30 pm on 23rd. 25th to C2, having spent extra night at Col for complete recovery from blindness. As difficult or more difficult and tiring for me "coming down; pushed my right arm and right side hard." Oxygen: Guller slept over in C3 and up from C3 to top to C4 Sherpas in C4 to top and in C4 Scott also in C4 Ability to climb dependent on balance and confidence - never used his wall: ice axe; just followed fixed lines (but no jummaring). Watkin's edema - had gone a little way into Icefall - left expedition 1 May. Bousselaire developed pulmonary edema and left expedition 10 May. Karma Gyalzen got pulmonary edema, collapsed and died quickly while descending just before top of Icefall. Sherpa summiters: Nima Dawa, Gudel village, Everest X1, Dhaulagiri I Pemba Tenzi, Sotang VDC, Cho Oyu X3 Da Nima, 31, Bhakanje, 1st 8000er Namgyal, 32, Lelep-8 VDC, Taplejung, 1st 8000er
Accidents 1 Sherpa fell and broke ankle (Pemba Tenzi); Watkins cerebral edema (had gone a little way into icefall); Bousselaire developed pulmonary edema; Guller brief snowblindness; 1 Sherpa died of AMS
Achievement -
Agency Arun Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458881
Year 2003
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vincent (Vince) Bousselaire M 1953 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Church pastor Details Other expeditions
Gary John Guller M 1966 USA/UK Leader Austin, Texas Travel agency director Details Other expeditions
Gary Scott M 1958 Australia Deputy Leader Colorado Springs, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christopher Watkins M 1959 Canada Climber Thunder Bay, Ontario Barrister Details Other expeditions
Nima Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Gudel, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pem Tenji (Pemba Tenzi) Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Sotang, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Da Nima Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Bhakanje, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Namgya/Namgyal Sherpa M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Gyabla, Lelep-8, Taplejung - Details Other expeditions
Karma Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Sotang, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.