Everest | 2002 N Col-NE Ridge
A Spain expedition to Everest in 2002 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Jorge Egocheaga. Summit reached on 17th May 2002. 2 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4028 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER02113 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 2002 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Col-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Spain |
| Leaders | Jorge Egocheaga |
| Sponsor | Independent on 'International Everest Expedition' |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 431 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | By road KTM->Tingri->BC |
| Basecamp Date | 2002-04-11 |
| Summit Date | 2002-05-17 |
| Summit Time | 0830 |
| Summit Days | 36 |
| Total Days | 39 |
| Termination Date | 2002-05-20 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 1 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(11/04,5100m),IBC(14/04,5800m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(05/05,7800m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05) |
| Route Notes | Started from C3 at 08:30 Nepal time. Spent about half an hour on summit back to C3 15:00 hours. Down to ABC at 20:00 hours. He met Gheorghe Dijmarescu near Second Step with oxygen. He returned to Kathmandu on May 26 and will leave on May 29. Egocheaga and Nawang Tenzing left C3 for summit at 1:30 am NST on 17 May. Reached summit at 8:30 am and returned C3 4:00 pm and ABC 8:00 pm same day. For confirmation about Egocheaga's oxygen use, read attached email. Email sent to Mr. Jeevan by Demetrio Carrases, member of Mexican Ev. team Yes, Dr. Egocheaga and me climbed very close. He was carrying oxygen, but was not using it when I met him. Later we separated, but I trust his words about not using oxygen. I hope this information helps you. Dijmarescu - 3 June 2002 (on EverestNews.com) "The report that Jorge Egocheaga Rodriguez (Spain), from the International Expedition, had summited Everest without Oxygen is false. We climbed in the same day, he started without Oxygen but was too slow and he used Oxygen. I saw him climbing with mask on, besides he never claimed to summit without it. He was a nice caring person, fast on his climb but you cannot compare him to Messner in any way. He and his Sherpa climbed with Oxygen, dozen of people can confirm what I just stated." * Nawang Tenzing Sherpa - summit Everest 1999 - summit Everest 2002 - summit Baruntse 2002 - summit Baruntse 2003 Fax to Miss Hawley from Jose Mendieta Anyway I had sent before an email to Jorge asking for the bottles oxygen that he had bought and I received his answers hours after your fax. It was a surprise me. I am trying to translate to you the words of the own Jorge. My Sherpa carried (two bottles of oxygen) in case that I need it. I must understand that Jorge Egocheaga is telling me that he did not carry any bottle. He writes this for twice in his email. I sent other email last Friday to Jorge to check it because it is difficult for me to think somebody is lying but I had not said to him the words from Demetrio (neither Daniel Perler words) I am waiting for his answer. I think he will never do. Because the words from Daniel Perler are more important (I received them after your fax also). I got his email from Asian Trekking. Daniel wrote to me "I was with Jorge Egocheaga on the day summit. I wake up first at 8300m. I got also first with oxygen. At about 8500m, I saw Jorge coming with oxygen. I waited for him and we went together to the summit. We made some fotos on the summit. Jorge had his oxygen mask wth him. It is the absolutely truth that Jorge climbed with oxygen." (These words in black are from the Daniel). I have sent other email to Daniel asking for a copy of the pictures but I think now Jorge climbed with oxygen. I am interested in your opinion. Email from Demetrio - 16 Oct 2002 I had two conversations the summit day with Jorge. One was near the Second Step. He actually helped to pass my jumar that was stuck when I left the Chinese ladder. He was not breathing oxgyen, but had all the gear with him. The second time we talked was after he had reached the summit and he was on his way down. I had just passed the last bit of rock climbing after the climbing after the summit pyramid and had only 50 meters more to go. He was definitely not using his mask. But since I was not on his all the time I cannot say that he did it all without oxygen. Upto 8300m he did definitely without oxygen. I did myself also, but he was so much quicker than any other climber, I that I don't doubt at all that he did without oxygen. I saw Russian who climbed to the summit wthout oxygen the day before coming down from the summit. But Jorge was definitely a much faster climber. The mistake of Jorge was to have carried the oxygen gear from 8300m to the summit. Just in case, and then he noticed he didn't need it at all. So people think he used it. But I also know Jorge personally and think that he is a very honest man, and to be frank, I think he doesn't care about records and fame. He just wants to climb. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2458464 |
| Year | 2002 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n col-ne ridge |
Members
2 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jorge Egocheaga Rodriguez | M | 1968 | Spain | Leader | Oviedo, Asturias, Spain | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle) Sherpa | M | 1960 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
1 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER02113 | HIGH | - | - | - | 244:58 (Mar 2003) | - |