Everest | 2000 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 2000 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Andrew Lock. Summit reached on 24th May 2000. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3529
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER00101
Peak ID EVER
Year 2000
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Andrew Lock
Sponsor Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2000
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 365
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, UK
Approach Lukla->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 2000-04-07
Summit Date 2000-05-24
Summit Time 0630
Summit Days 47
Total Days 49
Termination Date 2000-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 9
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,5300m),C2(23/04,6450m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(23/05),Smt(24/05)
Route Notes BC at normal spots C1 at normal spots C2 at normal spots C3 at normal spots. Made summit attempt on 15 May, turned back due to deep snow and ran out of rope to fix. Lock, Giorgio and Nima Gombu (his 6th summit of Everest), left high camp at 10:30 pm and reached the summit at 6:30 am, very windy and cloudy day. Almost had to turn back due to wind, but carried on. Curt Peterson: twisted his ankle and walked out around 16 April. Jack Culley: left due to a lung infection on 24 April. Jeff Magee: left on 4 May due to mild frostbite on his fingers while climbing to C3. Tim Bird: Torn muscles due to a hacking cough and he left 11 May (tore rib muscles). Tim Gregg: left on 11 May, realized he would not be able to summit, not strong enough and he went home. David Spencer and Jo Wolfgruber: left the mountain 18 May; they were on the first summit attempt on 14 May and did not have the strength to go back up. * Lock summited with Boskoff. Email from Andrew Lock - May 18, 2000 Five members of the group reached the South Summit at around 8750m on 15 May but turned back due to unsafe conditions. Having climbed to C2, we joined together with 4 other teams to give ourselves the best summit chance. No other groups appeared interested in making attempts on the mountain at the time but the forecast was excellent, so we pushed to C3 on the 13th and C4 on the 14th. With a clear night, Paul, David, Nima Ghombu Sherpa and Tsillen Sherpa and Andrew, set out at 11 pm and made the seemingly endless climb to the Balcony at 8500m by headlamp. We reached that point just as the dawn broke and revealed the incredible sight of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu and numerous smaller peaks surrounding us in Nepal and Tibet. Joe had decided not to continue to the summit but rather to attain his personal goal of 8000m and during the morning of the 15th with Nima Tshering Sherpa, he climbed to 8200m just to be sure. The remainder of the team climbed on towards the South Summit with a combined group of Sherpas fixing rope above. We reached the south summit about 9 am. From here the ridge crossed the famous Hillary Step and ascended the final slopes to the summit, however the hard ice of the ridge was found to be covered in soft snow which made for dangerous climbing. It had been intended to safeguard this part wih rope but we were disappointed to find that the remaining rope had not been brought up as agreed by another team's climber. To climb on without fixing this section was too risky, so we were obliged to turn back for C4. All descended safely to basecamp on 17 May. Reaching the South Summit was a fantastic achievement for the team members, as was Joe's personal goal of reaching 8000m at 61 years of age. This was his seventh peak of the "Seven Summits." Dave and Joe will be heading for home on May 20, well satisfied with their efforts. However the expedition is not over yet. Although recovering in basecamp at the moment. Andrew and Paul intend to re-ascend soon for a final summit attempt. Email from Andrew Lock - April 26, 2000 In the last week we've had plenty of activity and a few exciting incidents. All expedition members and staff are well. On Thursday 20th April, the team was saddened to farewell one of our members, Jack Culley, who had decided to depart for home. Jack was a valued team member and we wish him an enjoyable and safe trip home. On the same day, the majority of the team headed up to C1, enroute to C3 for an acclimatization trip. The plan was to move on Friday to C2, rest for a day and then make the long climb to C3 for a taste of thin air. Deputy leader Tim Bird led the group C1, whilst expedition leader Andrew Lock stayed in base camp to facilitate Jack's departure. On Friday 21st, the team trekked from C1, up the magnificent Western Cwm, surrounded by the towering walls of Nuptse, Lhotse and of course Everest to establish C2 at the foot of Everest's steep southwest face. Andrew joined the team by climbing direct from base camp to C2. An acclimatisation day at C2 was much appreciated by all, as were the continual hot drinks and meals served up by our Sherpa cooks, Ghombu and Mingma. Watching them melt chunks of ice from the surrounding seracs, one ponders the age of the liquid we are drinking. C2 serves the purpose of an advance base camp and so is well stocked for prolonged stays by the expeditioners. Easter Sunday saw the whole team, leader, members and four Sherpas make a 5:30 am departure for the Lhotse face, the intention being to climb that day to C3 around 7300m. Strong winds and low temperatures took the fun out of the hour long journey to the base of the face. This year the Lhotse face is bare of snow and the climb to C3 is made over the exposed hard ice. Almost immediately, the mountain reminded us all of the potential dangers of climbing these big peaks. One of the team was only a short distance up the ropes when an anchor pulled and he slid over 10 metres down the ice. His fall was arrested by the snow at the base and two of our Sherpa team who were well positioned to assist. Whilst a nasty scare was the he worst injury, we were faced with the need to re-fix the ropes on the lowest section of the face. The team returned to C2, to organise the rope and ice equipment for the following day. As luck would have it, the weather deteriorated that night and saw a heavy dump of snow. We decided to descend to base camp to allow the avalanche danger to pass and to rest for a couple of days in the thicker air. The weather remains a little fickle but the team are enjoying the base camp services of emails from home and opportunity for a hot wash. The team are in good health and anxious to continue the climb. Email from Henry Todd - 4 May 2000 Well its Thursday, 4 May and the Jagged Globe team are all safely back in base camp after a successful acclimatization climb to C3. On April 28th, we set out at 5 am for the climb to C2. The trip through the icefall is quicker each time, as we acclimatise and become more familiar with the route. Still its no place to hang around and Camp 1 is a welcome place to stop and rest for a while. We prefer now to climb direct to C2, as the energy expended in collecting and melting snow, cooking meals, etc. at camp 1, is greater than pushing on to the higher camp. Our advance base Sherpa staff occupies camp 2 throughout the expedition, so its well maintained. We took a rest day on Saturday, to recover from the one vertical km climb from base. Sunday dawned fine and not too windy, so we headed off at 6 am for our second attempt on Lhotse Face. The long slog up the final section of the Western Cwm saw the team spread out below the imposing ice wall. Once onto the Lhotse Face, the ropes were found to be in good condition and the slope less threatening than rumour had predicted. The ice was hard but our crampons gripped well and we made slow but consistent progress up the face. The first members arrived about 11:30 am and spent the afternoon cutting ice for the stoves and digging out buried tents. The thin air and cold early morning wind took its toll on the team and the final members didn't arrive until 6 pm. A fairly sleepless night was endured, during which the winds strengthened until by dawn the tents being buffeted continously, We waited for the sun, then descended quickly to the cwm and back to C2. The following morning the climbers descended to base. Our Sherpas remained in C2, to await an opportunity to ferry some loads to the South Col. This is where our C4 will be located. Having completed their load carries the Sherpas will descend for a rest at base camp, prior to the whole team ascending for the summit attempt. Whilst we wait for them, the team has an opportunity to rest ad regain strength for the big push. Tim B and Joe will head down to one of the local villages to spend a couple of days in the thicker air. Paul and Tim G prefer to remain in base camp. Andrew will also stay to liaise with the Sherpas and to watch the weather for the best summit opportunity. Sadly, Jeff has chosen to depart the expedition, as he suffered some minor frostbite to his fingers on the climb to C3 and with medical advice feels that the risk of serious injury would be too great if he continued the climb. The injury should heal quickly back at home and he will depart today for Kathmandu.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457694
Year 2000
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tim Bird M 1965 UK Deputy Leader Llanrwst, Gwynedd, Wales Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jack Culley M 1939 UK Climber Maidenhead, Berkshire, England Consulting engineer Details Other expeditions
Timothy Andrew Gregg M 1954 USA Climber Olympia, Washington Psychologist Details Other expeditions
Paul Frank Giorgio M 1964 USA Climber Auburn, Massachusetts Investor Details Other expeditions
Andrew James Lock M 1961 Australia Leader Sydney, NSW, Australia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jeff Magee M 1950 UK Climber Larchwood, Ord Muir, Ross, Scotland Attorney Details Other expeditions
Curt M. Peterson M 1958 USA Climber Bellevue, Washington Investment broker Details Other expeditions
David Anthony Spencer M 1963 UK Climber Slependen, Norway Geologist Details Other expeditions
Josef (Joe) Wolfgruber M 1939 USA Climber Honolulu, Hawaii Retired Details Other expeditions
Nima Gombu (Gombu) Sherpa M 1969 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Thilen Sherpa M 1968 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Nima Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER00101 - - http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/reports_read.html?id=6 - - -
EVER00101 - - http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/despatches_list.html?id=1 - - -