Dzasampatse | 2015 NE Face (up), SSW Ridge (down)

A France expedition to Dzasampatse in 2015 via NE Face (up), SSW Ridge (down), led by Mathieu Maynadier. Summit reached on 17th October 2015. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8992
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DZAS15301
Peak ID DZAS
Year 2015
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face (up), SSW Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Mathieu Maynadier
Sponsor French Nangpai Gosum I Expedition 2015
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Thami->Arye->Sumna
Basecamp Date 2015-09-30
Summit Date 2015-10-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 20
Termination Date 2015-10-20
Termination Reason 12
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6276m on summit ridge
High Point (m) 6276
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Nangpai Gosum I
Campsites BC(30/09,5160m),xxx(17-18/10,6276m)
Route Notes Arriving first at their base camp, the western face of Nangpai Gosum I looked in perfect condition, but the team wasn't yet acclimatized. Then occurred a 7-day warm weather period that changed completely the conditions of the face, with proper waterfalls appearing every afternoon at 6500m. The team had to change its plan facing this unexpected situation. After difficult days without finding any real plan B, on 17 Oct Dussere and Detrie decided to go for a new line on the NE Face of Dzasampatse (6296m), a summit lying immediately south of Jasemba (first ascent in 2004 by Slovenians). They started at 6 am from their BC, reaching almost (20m below) the top at 15:45, then the col afoot of the normal route SW side (Slovenian route 2004, AD+ grade and not TD+ according to them) at 8 pm. Meanwhile the same day, Maynadier and Labbre abandoned the plan to repeat the 2006 Japanese route on Nangpai Gosum I southeastern subpeak and decided to repeat their friend's route instead. Starting at 3 am on the 18 Oct, they followed the day before traces to reach same almost top at 9 am and got back to the same aforementioned col at 11:30 am! The route has been christened "A la vertical de la peine." During its acclimatization, team went to acclimatize on the Kammerlander route of Jasemba. During approach march, they found the glacial moraines to be extremely chaotic, with huge odd sections of unstable blocks, maybe a consequence of the earthquake?
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID NAG115301
Checksum 2463333
Year 2015
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face (up), ssw ridge (down)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mathieu Bernard Maynadier M 1984 France Leader Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mathieu Maurice Paul Detrie M 1983 France Climber Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Julien Paul Joseph Dusserre M 1982 France Climber Ancelle, Haute-Alpes, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Pierre Julien Labbre M 1981 France Climber Servoz, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.